浅谈高速带刀平缝机的常见故障及维修

高速带刀平缝机在服装企业使用率较高，它具有切边缝的功能，而且可以根据工艺要求随时更换裁剪宽度，如1／8″（3．175毫米）、3／16″（4．76毫米）、1／4″（6．35毫米）、3／8″（9．525毫米）等，还可以辅助服装小工具的使用，使工作效率成倍提高。下面笔者根据使用高速带刀平缝机的维修经验，与同行共同探讨缝纫中常见的故障及其排除方法。     

纺织产品检验流程

在纺织检验中，按照检验产品的状态可以分为纺织原材料的检验（如棉花、毛、丝等）．纺织半成品的检验（如纱线、坯布等），纺织成品的检验（布匹、服装等）。纺织品的质量是消费者最为关心的，也是投诉中所占比例较高的，其检验项目多、流程复杂．很多初学检验的检验员也感到难度较大。本文依据实际检验工作的流程．对服装的检验流程做详细的介绍，以供参考。     

服装网络购物的发展趋势

分析了服装网络购物的发展现状，对促进网络购物在服装业发展的因素——人体三维扫描测量及网上服装展示（试衣）、虚拟服装设计NAD的应用、服装快速反应（QR）的实施、服装网络联盟企业的建立和目前服装网络购物存在的问题进行了分析，指出服装网络购物能加快我国由服装生产大国向服装强国转变的进程。     

变性苎麻／毛／涤产品（舒力斯）设计工艺流程

变性苎麻／毛／涤产品（舒力斯）设计工艺流程杭州毛纺织厂陈丰兰一、前言变性苎麻／毛／涤（舒力斯）产品是纺织部服装技术开发中心和我厂共同开发、设计的高档精纺面料，目前该产品已列为浙江省省级新产品开发项目。该产品利用了变性苎麻、毛涤纤维的优良特性，尤其是使...     

品牌时代 你准备好了吗——谈服装企业如何提升自身的品牌竞争力

产品的竞争力，企业的竞争力，最终体现在品牌的竞争力上。品牌竞争力已经成为企业参与全球竞争力的武器。特别是对于服装企业来讲，面对阿玛尼（Armani）、古奇（Gucci）、范思哲（Versace）等众多国外品的入侵、要取得竞争的胜利，必须提升国内服装企业的品牌竞争力。     

JB-25CA／45CA平升式网印机

浙江劲豹机械有限公司推出的JB-25CA／45CA平升式网印机，是针对小件膜／片／板形产品的精密网印而设计的，如用于挠性电路（FPC）、模内装饰（IMD）、薄膜按键（MEMBRANE）、手机玻璃、掌上电脑玻璃、太阳能硅晶片、生物测试片、投光仪表、电子元件等印刷，特点如下：     

国家玩具质检中心入驻澄海

最近，国家玩具质检中心（汕头）澄海办事处、广东省纺织服装检验站（汕头）澄海办事处同时在澄海区质监局挂牌成立。办事处将依托市质计所的人才和设备资源优势，为澄海的玩具、服装企业在产品检测、计量认证、标准咨询、新产品开发等方面提供技术服务。     

意大利制造:技术纺织品与设备的新概念

多年来，意大利纺织服装凭藉独特的设计风格、高质量的纱线与面料选材和尖端的加工工艺，一直是世界上最好的纺织服装产品之一。意大利在拥有历史悠久的纺织业、全球领先的时装工业的同时，其纺机技术也走在世界的前列。在意大利对外贸易委员会（I．C．E．）与意大利纺机协会（ACIMIT）的成功运作下，其纺织品服装、纺织机械等产品为中国企业与消费者所熟知，并占有较大的市场份额。     

服用非织造布领域——待开发的沃土

非织造工业作为一个相对独立，富有朝气的生产行业，产品和材料已经涉及到产业，装饰，服装等应用领域，据有关资料统计，非织造布在服装领域的应用增长最快，但是绝大部分都是应用在服装辅料（如服装内衬、保暖絮层等）以及防护服，隔离服等一次性服装上，对于耐久性服装面料的开发研究很少。[编者按]     

2005年中国皮革工业生产总值达3，185亿元

近日，浙江海宁上元皮革有限责任公司又有五个省级新产品和一个国家级星火计划项目问世。它们是：低NP低NPES环保型山羊服装（手套）革环境友好牛皮特性革、绵羊水染领带革鹿皮海绵感抗皱服装（手套）革、环保型油润鞋面生态革通过浙江省新产品鉴定，“山羊防水服装（手套）革的开发通过国家星火计划项目的验收。这些成果的取得极大地增强了企业应对市场的能力对企业调整产品结构，促进产品升级换代具有强劲地推动作用。     

Reliable identification of grapevine rootstock varieties using RAPD PCR on woody samples

Since grapevine ( Vitis spp .) rootstock material is being traded increasingly as disbudded woody material a lack of distinctive morphological features on such material necessitates an alternative and reliable means of identification. Methods described here were developed for rapid and efficient extraction of DNA from woody samples rich in phenolic compounds and polysaccharides, and for subsequent identification of varieties by RAPD PCR. Using these methods, and with the application of only one selected RAPD primer, we were able to differentiate sixteen rootstock varieties, including the seven varieties most commonly used in Germany. Problems commonly encountered with reproducibility of RAPD patterns were avoided by choosing primers with a dinucleotide sequence and a high G/C content that allowed a rather high annealing temperature of 45°C. Methods described here should also be useful for other horticultural crops, especially those with woody tissues rich in phenolic compounds and polysaccharides.     

An internet compendium of analytical methods and spectroscopic information for monomers and additives used in food packaging plastics

An internet website (http://cpf.jrc.it/smt/) has been produced as a means of dissemination of methods of analysis and supporting spectroscopic information on monomers and additives used for food contact materials (principally packaging). The site which is aimed primarily at assisting food control laboratories in the European Union contains analytical information on monomers, starting substances and additives used in the manufacture of plastics materials. A searchable index is provided giving PM and CAS numbers for each of 255 substances. For each substance a data sheet gives regulatory information, chemical structures, physico-chemical information and background information on the use of the substance in particular plastics, and the food packaging applications. For monomers and starting substances (155 compounds) the infra-red and mass spectra are provided, and for additives (100 compounds); additionally proton NMR are available for about 50% of the entries. Where analytical methods have been developed for determining these substances as residual amounts in plastics or as trace amounts in food simulants these methods are also on the website. All information is provided in portable document file (PDF) format which means that high quality copies can be readily printed, using freely available Adobe Acrobat Reader software. The website will in future be maintained and up-dated by the European Commission's Joint Research Centre (JRC) as new substances are authorized for use by the European Commission (DG-ENTR formerly DGIII). Where analytical laboratories (food control or other) require reference substances these can be obtained free-ofcharge from a reference collection housed at the JRC and maintained in conjunction with this website compendium.     

Chlorohydrins of bisphenol A diglycidyl ether (BADGE) and of bisphenol F diglycidyl ether (BFDGE) in canned foods and ready-to-drink coffees from the Japanese market

BADGE.2HCl and BFDGE.2HCl were determined in 28 samples of ready-to-drink canned coffee and 18 samples of canned vegetables (10 corn, 5 tomatoes and 3 others), all from the Japanese market. HPLC was used as the principal analytical method and GCMS for confirmation of relevant LC fractions. BADGE.2HCl was found to be present in one canned coffee and five samples of corn, BFDGE.2HCl in four samples of canned tomatoes and in one canned corn. No sample was found which exceeded the 1mg/kg limit of the EU for the BADGE chlorohydrins. However the highest concentration was found for the sum of BFDGE.2HCl and BFDGE.HCl.H₂O at a level of 1.5mg/kg. A Beilstein test confirmed that all cans containing foods contaminated with BADGE.2HCl or BFDGE.2HCl had at lest one part coated with a PVC organosol.     

Aroma characterization of various apricot varieties using headspace–solid phase microextraction combined with gas chromatography–mass spectrometry and gas chromatography–olfactometry

The characterization of the aromatic profile of several apricot cultivars with molecular tracers in order to obtain objective data concerning the aromatic quality of this fruit was undertaken using headspace–solid phase microextraction (HS–SPME). Six apricot cultivars were selected according to their organoleptic characteristics: Iranien, Orangered, Goldrich, Hargrand, Rouge du Roussillon and A4025. The aromatic intensity of these varieties measured by HS–SPME–Olfactometry were defined and classified according to the presence and the intensity of grassy, fruity and apricot like notes. In the six varieties, 23 common volatile compounds were identified by HS–SPME–GC–MS. Finally, 10 compounds, ethyl acetate, hexyl acetate, limonene, β-cyclocitral, γ-decalactone, 6-methyl-5-hepten-2-one, linalool, β-ionone, menthone and (E)-hexen-2-al were recognized by HS–SPME–GC–O as responsible of the aromatic notes involved in apricot aroma and considered as molecular tracers of apricot aromatic quality which could be utilized to discriminate apricot varieties.     

European priorities for research to support legislation in the area of food contact materials and articles

A strong science base is required to underpin the planning and decision-making process involved in determining future European community legislation on materials and articles in contact with food. Significant progress has been made in the past 5 years in European funded work in this area, with many developments contributing to a much better understanding of the migration process, and better and simpler approaches to food control. In this paper this progress is reviewed against previously identified work-areas (identified in 1994) and conclusions are reached about future requirements for R&D to support legislation on food contact materials and articles over the next 5 or so years.     

Tests of potential functional barriers for laminated multilayer food packages. Part I: Low molecular weight permeants

The advent of the functional barrier concept in food packaging has brought with it a requirement for fast tests of permeation through potential barrier materials. In such tests it would be convenient for both foodstuffs and materials below the functional barrier (sub-barrier materials) to be represented by standard simulants. By means of inverse gas chromatography, liquid paraffin spiked with appropriate permeants was considered as a potential simulant of sub-barrier materials based on polypropylene (PP) or similar polyolefins. Experiments were performed to characterize the kinetics of the permeation of low molecular weight model permeants (octene, toluene and isopropanol) from liquid paraffin, through a surrogate potential functional barrier (25 μm-thick oriented PP) into the food simulants olive oil and 3% (w/v) acetic acid. These permeation results were interpreted in terms of three permeation kinetic models regarding the solubility of a particular model permeant in the post-barrier medium (i.e. the food simulant). The results obtained justify the development and evaluation of liquid sub-barrier simulants that would allow flexible yet rigorous testing of new laminated multilayer packaging materials.     

Textural Properties of Cold-set Gels Induced from Heat-denatured Whey Protein Isolates

A 9% whey protein (WP) isolate solution at pH 7.0 was heat-denatured at 80°C for 30 min. Size-exclusion HPLC showed that native WP formed soluble aggregates after heat-treatment. Additions of CaCl2 (10–40 mM), NaCl (50–400 mM) or glucono-delta-lactone (GDL, 0.4–2.0%, w/v) or hydrolysis by a protease from Bacillus licheniformis caused gelation of the denatured solution at 45°C. Textural parameters, hardness, adhesiveness, and cohesiveness of the gels so formed changed markedly with concentration of added salts or pH by added GDL. Maximum gel hardness occurred at 200 mM NaCl or pH 4.7. Increasing CaCl2 concentration continuously increased gel hardness. Generally, GDL-induced gels were harder than salt-induced gels, and much harder than the protease-induced gel.     

Influence des ions sur le pouvoir hydratant de l'ure e: e tude sur peau de porc ex vivo

This study deals with the influence of ions (NaCl and MgSO4) in a W/O emulsion containing 10% urea. Moisturization kinetics are assessed by corneometry on pig skin ex vivo. The formula's influence on urea penetration is measured by infrared spectrometry with an ATR device and the stripping method. Corneometry and spectroscopy were chosen to record simultaneously the hydratation levels and urea localization into superficial cell layers. Urea crystallization after evaporation of emulsions and aqueous solutions is described. Results show that urea does not hydrate nor penetrate when applied to the skin through an aqueous gel. In a W/O emulsion, sodium chloride increases the ability of urea to moisturize without improving penetration. In vitro urea crystallization is disturbed by sodium chloride or magnesium sulphate for solutions and emulsions. This stabilization by ions is correlated with good moisturization values. The stabilization of urea in the solute state provided by ions increases its water epidermal binding capacity without enhancing penetration.     

Occurrence of bisphenol-F-diglycidyl ether (BFDGE) in fish canned in oil

The levels of bisphenol-F-diglycidyl ether (BFDGE) were quantified as part of a European survey on the migration of residues of epoxy resins into oil from canned fish. The contents of BFDGE in cans, lids and fish collected from all 15 Member States of the European Union and Switzerland were analysed in 382 samples. Cans and lids were separately extracted with acetonitrile. The extraction from fish was carried out with hexane followed by re-extraction with acetonitrile. The analysis was performed by reverse phase HPL C with fluorescence detection. BFDGE could be detected in 12% of the fish, 24% of the cans and 18% of the lids. Only 3% of the fish contained BFDGE in concentrations considerably above 1mg/kg. In addition to the presented data, a comparison was made with the levels of BADGE (bisphenol-A-diglycidyl ether)analysed in the same products in the context of a previous study.