A study on thermophysiological comfort properties of fabrics in relation to constituent fibre fineness and cross-sectional shapes

The present study reports the effect of linear densities and profiles of polyester fibres on the physiological properties of their fabrics. Four different polyester fibre finenesses along with microdenier and four cross-sectional shapes (circular, scalloped oval, tetrakelion and trilobal) were selected to produce two sets of 2/1 twill fabrics; one composed of 100% polyester and the other 67:33 P/V blends. In studying the thermophysiological component of the clothing comfort, heat, air and moisture transmission characteristics of the fabrics were assessed. The principal thermal properties, such as thermal absorptivity, thermal resistance and thermal conductivity, were experimentally evaluated, using the Alambeta instrument. The study of the obtained results established the fabrics of non-circular cross-sections as against circular ones, and increase in the linear density results in higher thermal resistance, lower thermal conductivity and lower thermal absorptivity. Wicking behaviour of fabrics was studied under two conditions–wicking from an infinite liquid reservoir (transverse wicking) and wicking from a finite liquid reservoir (single drop wicking into the fabrics). Increase in fibre linear density enhances transplaner wicking but slows down the spreading speed of water drops. Air permeability and moisture vapour permeability are found to be positively correlated with fibre decitex. The role of fibre cross-sectional shapes in influencing mass-flow characteristics is quite considerable. Use of non-circular polyester in place of a circular one augments the wickability of liquid water along with the permeability of air and moisture vapour through the fabrics, revealing their high porosity, which assists air and moisture to propagate. Mixing viscose into polyester brings down the air permeability and moisture vapour transmission rate (MVTR) of fabrics. Results show that moisture absorption of viscose is an important factor in influencing the moisture transport characteristics including both wickability and MVTR of 100% viscose and P/V-blended fabrics.     

Investigation on permeability and moisture management properties of different denim fabrics after repeated laundering

The physiological comfort determined by air permeability and moisture management properties of fabrics is influenced by various constructional parameters of the fabric which give woven fabric a porous structure. Evaporation of sweat during wear has the potential to cool the body besides restricting the additional weight of sweat being absorbed by the fabric. In this study, comfort characteristics of denim fabrics with different weft yarn of cotton, polyester and core spun Lycra have been discussed. Effect of enzyme washing and repeated laundering on air permeability, moisture management and drying rate has also been discussed. It was observed that air permeability and water vapour permeability of unwashed denim fabrics with cotton weft yarn are significantly higher than the fabric with polyester and Lycra cotton weft yarns. The wetting time is higher for cotton and Lycra cotton yarn fabrics. One-way transport index is highest for Lycra cotton weft fabrics and lowest for fabrics with polyester weft. Fabrics with polyester weft yarns show highest spreading rate, spreading radius and drying rate due to better wicking and hydrophobic nature of polyester fibres.     

聚乙烯针织物的热湿舒适性能

为研究织物结构参数对聚乙烯针织物热湿舒适性能的影响,选取3种规格的聚乙烯长丝织成双罗纹针织物,并选用涤纶、凉感涤纶长丝制备相同结构双罗纹织物作为对比试样,研究构成织物的原料种类、未充满系数、捻度对织物孔隙率、透气性、导热及导湿性能的影响。结果表明:在织物结构相同的情况下,构成织物的原料、未充满系数与织物透气、导湿、导热等热湿舒适性能显著相关;纱线捻度与织物的导热及导湿性能显著相关;与涤纶、凉感涤纶织物相比,聚乙烯长丝表面存在沟壑,结晶度、取向度较高,其织物具有优良的透气、导湿和导热性能,是制备凉爽舒适功能纺织品良好原材料。     

Thermo-physiological comfort properties of double-face knitted fabrics made from different types of polyester yarns and cotton yarn

Double-face knitted fabrics with hydrophobic inner and hydrophilic outer layers are characterised by their advantageous thermo-physiological comfort property that facilitates the transport of sweat from skin to outer fabric layer where it can be evaporated easily. In this study, for the production of double-face knitted fabrics, cotton yarn as hydrophilic yarn type and five different polyester filament yarns consisting of standard polyester, hollow polyester, micro polyester, textured polyester and textured micro polyester as hydrophobic yarn type were used. In order to determine the thermo-physiological comfort properties of the fabrics, air permeability, water vapour permeability, thermal conductivity, thermal resistance and overall moisture management capacity were measured. The results were comparatively analysed using statistical methods. The experimental results demonstrated that the polyester-type yarns and the combinations of them with the cotton yarn in fabric layers affected the thermo-physiological comfort properties significantly. The fabrics with polyester-type inner face and cotton outer face showed the best moisture transmission properties.     

改性聚丙烯酸类纤维吸湿发热机织物的开发

为研究吸湿发热保暖机织物的热湿舒适性,开发了6种不同结构的改性聚丙烯酸类纤维吸湿发热机织物。通过热湿舒适相关性能测试与分析,得出不同机织物结构参数对透气性、热阻、芯吸高度、液态水分管理以及吸湿发热性能的影响规律,为设计出兼具吸湿发热和导湿排汗性能的热湿舒适机织物提供参考。经测试发现:蜂巢组织能明显改善织物的保暖性和透气性,且织物由内层向外层形成回潮率递增的梯度结构,对水分管理和提高单向导湿性能有积极作用,三层蜂巢组织在提升织物吸湿发热性能上具有一定潜力。     

改性聚丙烯酸类纤维吸湿发热机织物的开发

为研究吸湿发热保暖机织物的热湿舒适性,开发了6种不同结构的改性聚丙烯酸类纤维吸湿发热机织物。通过热湿舒适相关性能测试与分析,得出不同机织物结构参数对透气性、热阻、芯吸高度、液态水分管理以及吸湿发热性能的影响规律,为设计出兼具吸湿发热和导湿排汗性能的热湿舒适机织物提供参考。经测试发现:蜂巢组织能明显改善织物的保暖性和透气性,且织物由内层向外层形成回潮率递增的梯度结构,对水分管理和提高单向导湿性能有积极作用,三层蜂巢组织在提升织物吸湿发热性能上具有一定潜力。     

Role of filament cross-section in properties of PET multifilament yarn and fabric. Part II: effect of fibre cross-sectional shapes on fabric hand

To investigate the effect of fibre cross-sectional shape on hand of polyethylene terephthalate continuous multifilament fabrics, different fabric samples are developed with similar fabric areal density, weave, yarn and fibre linear density. The effect of fibre cross-sectional shape on various structure–property relationship of fabric is precisely characterized. Different cross-sectional shapes have different stiffness as well as different packing index with ideal geometry of filament yarns. The low-stress mechanical properties and hand behaviour of fabric are also altered by change in cross-sectional shape of filaments. The experimental results indicate that the alteration in cross-sectional shape can be a powerful tool for fabric engineering.     

Investigating the effect of material and weave design on comfort properties of bilayer-woven fabrics

The paper focuses on the development of a bilayer-woven fabric and investigating the effect of weave design and material type on its comfort properties. Face layer was plain woven with cotton yarn, while two different weave designs (2/2 and 3/1 twill) and four different materials (cotton, polyester, micropolyester and nylon) were used for the back layer. The comfort properties of fabric, including air permeability (AP), thermal resistance, water vapour resistance and overall moisture management capacity, were determined. It was found that both the layers of fabric as a whole contribute to the comfort properties of bilayer fabric. The highest AP was exhibited by fabrics having both layers of cotton, while 3/1 twill samples have a lower value of thermal resistance as compared to the 2/2 twill samples. The results further showed that micro polyester woven in 3/1 twill weave exhibits better comfort properties.     

Y形涤纶纤维机织物的开发与性能分析

为了研究Y形涤纶纤维机织物的性能,利用Y形涤纶纤维的纯纺纱以及与棉纤维的混纺纱线,设计开发了16种平纹和斜纹组织织物,对其吸湿排汗性能如吸湿性、透湿性、 吸水性及快干性进行了测试与分析。结果表明：较稀疏、轻薄的混纺织物比纯纺织物透湿性好;而较紧密、厚实的纯纺织物比混纺织物透湿性好；随着织物组织结构紧密度和厚度的增加,Y形涤纶纤维织物的干燥速度下降。     

An investigation of thermal comfort properties of Abaya woven fabrics

Abaya is a traditional Muslim woman’s outer garment. It is black in colour, and must be worn over the normal day-to-day clothing according to Islamic law. It is mandatory to wear Abaya in Arabian Gulf countries irrespective of the outside environmental temperature, which can be up to 50°C. Having many layers of clothing including Abaya makes it extremely uncomfortable for the wearer in a hot environment. Thermal comfort performance is, therefore, essential for fabrics used for Abaya. This study investigated some commercially available woven Abaya fabrics for thermal resistance, air permeability, thermal comfort, vapour resistance and fabric structural and surface properties. The results indicated that the Abaya fabrics with different weave structures, fibre composition and fabric weight have greater influence on the fabric thermal comfort performance.     

Thermo-physiological comfort characteristics of polyester air-jet-textured and cotton-yarn fabrics

Air-jet-textured polyester yarns were produced using two feed yarns differing in filament fineness and number of filaments. By varying the overfed rates of feed yarns and changing their positions in core and effect, five textured yarns were produced. Woven fabrics were prepared using these textured yarns as weft and cotton yarns in warp. To study the effect of air-jet-texturing parameters on the thermo-physiological comfort characteristics of fabric, the woven fabrics were tested for thickness, thermal properties, transverse wicking and air permeability. It is observed that thermal conductivity and resistance of fabrics are not influenced by the texturing parameters/textured yarn structure. These properties are mainly dependent on the entrapped air present in fabrics. Thermal absorptivity is a transient phenomenon of heat flow reflecting that the ‘warm-cool feeling’ effect of fabrics depends on smoothness/roughness of fabric surface. Fabrics with smooth surfaces have higher thermal absorptivity values as they provide a large area of contact with human skin. The roughness of fabrics depends on the number of surface loops and filament fineness. Transverse wicking of fabrics depends on the size, continuity and alignment of the capillaries present in the core of textured yarns.     

羊毛与37.5涤纶混纺针织物的热湿舒适性研究

选择8种不同的羊毛与普通涤纶、37.5涤纶混纺针织物试样,测试试样的密度、面密度、未充满系数和厚度等基本参数,以及回潮率、透气率、芯吸高度、瞬间接触凉感(Q-max)及恒定加热条件下的干、湿态升温性能等织物的热湿舒适性能,分析和评价了针织物的基本参数对其热湿舒适性能的影响。试验结果显示,与普通涤纶相比,采用37.5涤纶有助于提高织物的回潮率、芯吸高度和Q-max;透气率随针织物未充满系数的增大而增大;当织物的纤维组成成分基本一致,组织结构相同时,针织物的面密度越大,透气性越差;含37.5涤纶的纬平针织物的瞬间接触凉感性能较好。     

Coolfibre织物的性能测试及优化设计

为了有效利用Coolfibre纤维的性能优势,开发Coolfibre织物,根据Coolfibre纤维(五叶形涤纶纤维)及长丝的结构、性能,开发了27种织物,通过测试这些织物的透气性、透湿性、吸湿保湿性、干燥性和强伸性,综合考虑织物的经久耐用和干爽舒适功能,应用模糊综合评价方法,优选出了比较理想的织物规格为:CF 167 dtex/C 18.2 tex 238/224平纹织物.     

Effect of structural parameters on thermal protective performance and comfort characteristic of fabrics

In an attempt to understand the influence of basic structural parameters of fabrics on thermal protection and comfort, present study mainly focuses on analyzing effect of fabric weaving pattern and fabric weight. Fabric samples of three basic weaving patterns (plain, twill, and satin) and three different weights were prepared. Air permeability of the developed fabric samples was measured. Thermal protective performance of fabrics against radiant heat and flame exposures of two different intensities were measured. Spectral transmission behavior of fabrics was also studied. It was observed that for same fabric weight, protective performance and air permeability of satin woven fabrics were better as compared to the fabrics of other patterns. Protective performance increased and air permeability decreased as fabric weight increased for each type of woven structure included in this study. A new structural parameter is proposed which primarily influences the protective performance of fabrics exposed to either radiant heat, flame, or combined convective/radiant heat exposure.     

含湿状态下组织结构对织物热舒适性的影响

为比较不同组织结构的织物在含湿状态下的热舒适性能,用KES织物风格仪测试了在一定含湿状态下涤纶针织物、机织物的热舒适性能。结果表明:织物含水率越高,瞬间冷感越强,热传导性能提高,保暖性能下降;在含湿率相同的状态下,涤纶机织物比针织物瞬间冷感更强;编织方法对导热系数随含湿率变化的规律没影响;涤纶机织物、针织物在纯干燥状态下的保暖性相差无几,但加湿后2种织物保暖性能差别显著。通过综合分析比较,认为涤纶针织物保暖性好于涤纶机织物。     

聚酯长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能

为研究聚酯(PET)长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能,利用PET长丝与纯棉纱开发了3种线密度为9.8 tex的纱线,并以二上二下斜纹组织织造了4种织物。对织物进行了折皱回复性、免烫性、尺寸稳定性、悬垂性等保形性能,强伸性、拉伸弹性、顶破性等抗变形性测试,以及手感风格、透湿性、透气性等服用性能测试。对比分析了纯棉纱织物与复合纱织物的保形性与服用性能。结果表明:PET长丝/棉复合纱可改善纯棉织物的折皱回复性、悬垂性,提高免烫等级,同时又不影响织物的服用性能;包芯纱织物比包缠纱织物有更好的保形性,更高的免烫等级,是免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。     

Thermophysiological comfort properties of selected knitted fabrics and design of T-shirts

Thermal comfort is one of the most important components of comfort which shows physiological, psychological, and physical harmony between human body and environment. The heat and moisture transfer capacity of fabric from skin to environment affects the thermal comfort of garments. The transfer capacity depends on the characteristic features of raw materials and fabric structural properties. In this study, it is aimed to determine the advantages of knitted fabric types, taking into account the environmental condition and activity level by measuring the thermal comfort properties such as air permeability, wicking, moisture management, thermal and water vapor resistances. Two knitted structures composed of tuck and float combinations and six raw materials were chosen for the fabrics produced. According to the measurement results, the polyester and cotton/Coolmax fabrics with float stitches have had good liquid moisture transport properties. Besides, high air permeability and low water vapor resistance have been obtained in viscose and Tencel LF fabrics with tuck stitches. On the basis of the results obtained in this investigation, and taking into consideration thermal behavior of human body, four women’s and five men’s T-shirts are designed. These T-shirt designs may be helpful for further approaches on the optimization of thermal comfort for sports activities in hot environment.     

Study on effect of blend ratio on thermal comfort properties of cotton/nylon-blended fabrics with high-performance Kermel fibre

This study presents the thermal comfort properties of woven fabrics made of Kermel, cotton/nylon and cotton/nylon /Kermel-blended yarns. Our aim in this study is to combine the high comfort properties of cotton/nylon fibres with high thermal protective properties of Kermel fibre in different woven fabrics. Thus, Kermel (100%), cotton/nylon (50:50) and four blends of the 50% cotton fibres with nylon and Kermel (40:10, 30:20, 20:30 and 10:40) were spun on a ring-spinning frame and twisted into two-folded yarns with the same yarn count of 30/2(Ne) and twist level of 560 TPM. Using the produced yarns, woven fabrics with identical characteristic and structure were also produced. Then, the thermal comfort and physical properties of fabrics were studied in terms of fabric porosity, thermal resistance, thermal conductivity, water vapour resistance and air permeability. The results show that the porosity, air permeability and thermal resistance increase with Kermel fibre blend ratio. Conversely, the water vapour resistance decreases with increase of Kermel fibre blend ratio up to 40%, while 100% Kermel-woven fabric exhibits a higher water vapour resistance value. Nevertheless, the thermal conductivity of cotton/nylon-blended Kermel woven fabric is unchanged with increase of Kermel fibre blend ratio up to 40%, whereas at 100% Kermel fibre blend ratio, the lowest thermal conductivity is obtained. The obtained results implied that woven fabric produced from cotton/nylon (50/10) blended with 40% Kermel fibre resulted in proper thermal comfort properties.     

Multi-response optimization of thermophysiological comfort properties of polyester filament woven fabrics

Microfilament woven fabrics are used in many products such as sportswear, rainclothes, windproof clothes, sleeping bags and surgical gowns and for these products, thermophysiological comfort properties are of prime importance. In this study, it is intended to investigate the effects of filament linear density and weft sett on thermophysiological comfort properties. Also, an optimization model was developed to determine the optimum filament linear density and weft sett for the best response variables of air permeability, water vapour permeability and thermal resistance. Four different weft sett and five different filament linear densities were applied in weft direction with three different weave types. In doing so, 60 woven fabric samples were produced. According to ANOVA results and experimental observations, it is observed that, the effect of filament linear density on air and water vapour permeability was minor on microfilament range, whereas the differences between conventional filament and microfilament sample groups are considerable. Also, higher weft sett causes decreasing of air and water vapour permeability. On the other hand, there is no obvious consistent trend for thermal resistance of samples with different filament linear density and weft sett.