Analysis on the shape and structure of Mongolian traditional Gu Gu crowns in the illustrations of the Jāmi' al-Tawārīkh in the National Library of France北大核心CSCD

Jāmi' al-Tawārīkh is a detailed history book of Mongolia compiled by the prime minister Rashid al-Din under an order issued by Ghazan Khan in 700 of the Islamic calendar (1310 - 1311 A. D.). After the book was finished the royal family invested a great deal of manpower material and financial resources to draw its illustrated edition which was completed between 1306 A. D. and 1314 A. D. In this period Persian miniatures had strong Mongolian characteristics. The facial shapes of the characters showed the image characteristics of Mongolians and the clothing styles and patterns on the clothes also had the characteristics of Mongolian and even traditional Chinese costumes. Among them Jāmi' al-Tawārīkh in the National Library of France was drawn between 1425 A. D. and 1430 A. D. There are 15 Persian miniatures in the book that illustrate the Gu Gu crowns worn by aristocratic women of Mongolia which were the headgear favored by women of the ethnic group at that time and were very popular. The Gu Gu crowns in the illustrations are rich in color and clear in structure which provide precious and detailed historical image data for us to study the shape and manufacture characteristics of Gu Gu crowns in the Mongolian and Yuan Dynasties. Through reading the pictures we can learn the color pattern shape structure collocation wearing effect and identity of the wearers wearing occasions and other practical problems of the Gu Gu crowns. Combined with the ancient documents and images we can further study and analyze the specific shape and system of the Gu Gu crowns in the Mongol Yuan period the characteristics of wearing and the related cultural connotation behind them. Firstly the 15 illustrated wearing scenes were classified and the wearing characteristics of Gu Gu crowns in different scenes were summarized to find out their regularity. Secondly the characteristics of wearing the Gu Gu crowns in different scenes were compared and the different meanings they represent were analyzed and studied. Finally we concluded the shape characteristics and decorative effect of Gu Gu crowns in the Mongol Yuan period and summarized the cultural implication and national belief represented by Gu Gu crowns as well as the fundamental reason why they were favored by Mongolian women for their enduring popularity. On this basis the correspondence analysis method was used to study the relationship between the formative characteristics occasion of wearing cultural connotation and the identity status and belief of the users. We concluded that the characteristics of the Gu Gu crowns in the illustrations of Jāmi' al-Tawārīkh collected in the National Library of France except for only wearing the hood and crown cape in keeping vigil beside the coffin changed little with the wearing occasions. The shape of the bionic swan showed totem worship the structure features of the square above and the circle below explained the significance of the combination of men and women. It reflects that Mongolians believe in the "Mongke Tengri" Eternal Heaven and the modeling concept based on nature is beyond nature. The structure of being square at the top and circular at the bottom explains the significance of the combination of men and women. The length of crown feathers the number of the ball feathers the hood color and the cape length change showed that the usefulness of Gu Gu crowns was replaced by decoration becoming a symbol of status. In the middle and late period the gold cross pattern appeared frequently in the crown decoration highlighting the identity of many noble women as disciples of Nestorianism. As a whole Gu Gu crowns elongated the human body lines in a towering and beautiful shape making people appear tall and in line with aesthetic characteristics. The luxurious decorative details highlighted the rich and leisure life of aristocratic women and their noble social rank and status in the Yuan Dynasty. The original symbolism took a back seat to the decorative function. This edition of Jāmi ' al-Tawārīkh provides precious image information for the study of the shape and symbolic significance of aristocratic women's headgear in the Mongol (Yuan) period. Through systematic studying and sorting out the structure shape material pattern production technology etc. it can better inherit Chinese traditional costume culture and inherit the traditional costume skills of China. The research results can provide inspiration and innovative ideas for the design and innovation of Chinese national costumes. Under the trend of global integration the exchange of clothing culture among different countries is increasingly close. It is a shortcut for Chinese fashion to go to the world to retain and integrate the characteristics of national clothing. © 2022 Authors. All rights reserved.     

中英文颜色术语的理解歧义

Interpretation of some color terms is a kind of cross-cultural activity. The color terms in English and Chinese differ greatly in meanings due to physical and cultural reasons. The same color to people in different cultures leads to different associative meanings that share various cultural implications. It is indispensable to study color terms in terms of colors and society, colors and history, colors and politics, and colors and the economy on the basis of comparison and contrast, which constitute the essential elements of any culture and society.     

Seoul Food Culture Viewed from High-Class Korean-Styled Restaurants and Korean Female Entertainers in the 1930s

Since Korea-Japan annexation in 1910, Japan has promoted the migration and/or tourism into colonial Chosun （old Korea） as an efficient cultural strategy for extending imperialism into Korean peninsula. In many tour guide books, the gisaeng （Korean female entertainers） was not only a symbol of Chosun tradition, but a main icon of Chosun tourism. The high class Korean-styled restaurants （yorijoem） were established as tourist attraction for Japanese inlanders, with singing and dancing gisaengs, ondol （Korean heating floor） house and Korean authentic cuisine, etc. The aim of this paper is firstly to explore the existential change of gisaengs in the yorijoem through its spatial significance in the 1930s, and secondly to explore the identity of Seoul local food culture and its metamorphosis under the colonial modernity.     

基于小波变换和阈值分割的织物疵点边缘检测

The edge detection of fabric defects is the base of geometrical features extraction and the essential process of the fabric defects identification, This paper proposed a method for fabric defects edge detection based on discrete stationary wavelet transform （DSWT） and optimal threshold segmentation algorithm （OTSA）. Firstly, the background of fabric defects picture was removed, then it was executed through DSWT and enhanced by the Laplacian operator. Finally, the edge detection was carded out with both OTSA and morphological operation. By contrast, this method is better than the classic ones, and is effective to fabric defect edge detection.     

Supported Liquid Membrane Extraction Technology and Its Application in Detection of Meat Security

As a novel technology,supported liquid membrane extraction has gradually become the direction of the research of extraction,for the advantages of using little organic solvents,good selectivity and repeatability.This paper is based on describing the working principle,structure and infiuencing factors of supported liquid membrane,and research in domestic and foreign literatures which are in the same period, and give a review on the application of supported liquid membrane in meat security determination.     

Application of meta-analysis in the field of costume studies北大核心CSCD

With the development of the methodology of research review, meta-analysis has been widely applied in the study of various disciplines.However, through literature collection and combing, it is found that the application of meta¬analysis in the field of domestic costume studies is still blank theoretically.To facilitate the extensive use of meta-analysis in domestic integration research on costume theories, and improve the standardization and objectivity of research on costume theories, through an analysis of the basic meaning, functions, advantages, sample selection and research process of meta¬analysis, 52 domestic research papers published from 2(K)7 to 2019 on the relationship between online consume reviews and consumers' purchase intention were taken as examples, to explore the application process of meta-analysis in the field of costume studies in a systematic way and key points thereof.Finally, through literature survey and an analysis of domestic and foreign applications, it is verified that meta-analysis has a good prospect in theoretical studies on costumes in the future. © 2021 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Determinants of Food Security in Selected Agro-pastoral Communities of Somali and Oromia Regions, Ethiopia

In spite of receiving a significant amount of food aid, achieving food security has been a major problem in Ethiopia. The claim is evidenced from the 2010 Global Hunger Index where the country fared dismally, coming only fourth from the bottom. There are several factors attributing to this problem of food insecurity in a country like Ethiopia which depends highly on agriculture and allied activities. Some of the factors can be linked to low food production and productivity thereby leading to pervasive poverty. In order to assess these factors, the study was conducted on some selected members of agro-pastoral communities of Somali and Oromia regions in Ethiopia. Using availability of food in the household for the last one month as a proxy for food security, the estimated results of a logistic regression model indicated that the most significant factors affecting household food security are educational level of the spouse and that of the household head, size of farm land, availability of household assets including livestock, peace and security. The paper suggests some leads to how these amenities and resources can be provided to household members as they endeavor to reduce food insecurity.     

Chinese Soybean Industry：Current Status and Outlook

This paper focus on the soybean resources and their industry development in China.Due to the high demand in domestic market,it is necessary to expand the cultivation area and improve the production yields.Meanwhile,to increase the export of soybeans from overseas is also important.China has a long history in producing traditional soybean foods.After recent fifty years,the development of Chinese soybean industry has reached to a reasonable level.The current status of Chinese soybean industry has been included in the paper.It has been expected that in next five years,there will be a rapid increase in the processing of soybeans;it will become more reasonable in the scale and distribution of soybean oil factories.Emphasis will be put on the improvement of the functionalities of soybean products.Different kinds of functional soybean foods,especially the soybean proteins for particular uses will be developed by the use of modification technologies.Concern is also given to the multi-utilization of soybean resources,which not only covers the extraction of oil from soybean seeds and the processing of protein products from the meal;but also includes the recovery of the natural phyto-chemicals from soybeans which could then be exploited to novel products with more profits.     

影响西装翻领服帖度的样板因素

 This paper is devoted to researching on the turndown lapel collar of suits.The AT-style pattern technology and high end men′s suit manufacture craft are adopted to investigate the pattern factors affecting the lapel fitness of suits,the rising quantity of under line of the collar stand through the experiments of fitting the mannequin′s neck to lapel.Analytical comparison of the lapel fitness is performed in terms of front neck and back neck,etc.Data for evaluation of lapel fitness is collected with the back neck point as starting point,the rising quantity as X axis,and the distance from the turn-over line to the central line of back neck as Y axis.The study showed that a non-linear quantitative relationship exists between the rising quantity of under line and the fitness.     

Upgrading Paper-grade Softwood Kraft Pulp to Dissolving Pulp by Cold Caustic Extraction

Cold caustic extraction has potential applications in the production of dissolving-grade pulps due to its ability to selectively remove hemicellulose from lignocellulosic materials. In this study,we demonstrate the conversion of paper-grade kraft pulp into dissolving pulp by a single-stage cold caustic extraction. Under the extraction conditions of 12 wt% NaOH lye,11% pulp consistency,a temperature of 35℃,and 2 h,a paper-grade softwood kraft pulp was purified to high-grade dissolving pulp with 97. 1% α-cellulose content,1. 2% pentosane content,and narrowed molecular weight distribution. The resulting extraction filtrate was concentrated by nano-filtration to obtain the hemicellulose content of 59. 0 g / L,while the permeate was a clear Na OH solution with 10. 9 wt% concentration. A process configuration was also proposed,integrating this cold caustic extraction process with existing pulp and paper production and multi-purpose utilization of the extraction filtrate.     

Studies on Nutritive Food from Rice Bran

Rice bran has high nutritive value and good prospects on developing new foods from it.The paper described preparation of a new functional food from stabilized rice bran and provided new technical ways to utillize rice bran in the area of healthy foods.     

Study on the structure and properties of modified silk with ultraviolet absorbent北大核心CSCD

The silk fiber has an irreplaceable position in textile fibers and related silk fabrics have the advantages of light and airy texture good moisture absorption and breathability comfort in wear etc. It is also widely used in other fields such as the biomedical sector. However silk also has its own limitations poor light resistance and susceptibility to ultraviolet light especially the ultraviolet light of 290-400 nm wavelength in daylight such as under which condition it is prone to yellowing and photodegradation. The yellowing of silk is due to the photo-oxidation of tyrosine and tryptophan in silk protein under the action of ultraviolet light from sunlight and due to the production of yellow substances which affects the whiteness of silk. In addition from the molecular structure of silk most of the amino acids susceptible to UV light are distributed in the amorphous region. As the amorphous region is affected the structure of the crystalline region is also gradually relaxed the local degradation begins and the silk protein macromolecule chain is cleaved which leads to the decrease of the mechanical properties of silk fibers and accelerates the aging of silk fibers and fabrics. Therefore it is necessary to modify the silk products outside the anti-purple line. The current methods used to modify silk are mostly for post finishing modification including coating impregnation and chemical grafting methods but these methods often affect the original color or feel of the fabric and the durability of the modified effect is also poor. The feeding method is a green method to obtain modified silk by spraying mulberry leaves or artificial feed mixed with modifier which is ingested by silkworm and transferred to silk gland. In this study five aminobenzene UV absorbers were used as exogenous additive food for silkworms. The effect of molecular polarity on the transport of modifiers to silk glands was investigated and their effects on silkworm development and silk structural properties were studied. It was found that the aminobenzene UV absorbers were more easily transferred to the central silk gland silk glue and less to the posterior silk gland (fibroin). 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid was found to be the highest in the posterior silk gland with a content of 3. 27 μg / strip. The cocoon width and cocoon quality of this group were significantly lower than those of the control group and the silk gum content was increased when this group was used as the study object. Compared with the control group the relative content of β-folded structure and crystallinity of the silk in the addition feeding group decreased slightly. The silkworm silk in the feeding group showed a certain UV absorption ability. After 330 h UV irradiation the breaking strength and elongation of the control group decreased by 48. 95% and 43. 52% respectively while those of the feeding group decreased by 42. 03% and 34. 18% respectively. In this paper UV absorbers were added to silkworms to obtain modified silk mainly focusing on the transfer of the modifier to the silk gland and the structural properties of the modified silk only for the most UV absorbers to enter the silk gland of the posterior group of silk. Other properties of the modified silk such as washing resistance have not been studied and some more in-depth studies are required. For instance it needs to be studied in depth for the limited absorption of exogenous additives by silkworms additive food's being not always absorbed by silkworms and transferred to the silk gland and the mechanism of action between the additive food and silk protein after the former's entering the silk gland. © 2022 Authors. All rights reserved.     

High Linoleic Acid in the Food Supply Worldwide-What are the Consequences? (英文原文)(Online First, Recommended Article)

The macronutrient composition of food supply in China has altered dramatically in the past 70 years. Fat (oil) has increased more than 4.2-times while the carbohydrate content has declined by 34%. Vegetable oils are the major component of the fat intake and since these oils are rich in linoleic acid, there has been a significant rise in the consumption of this fatty acid (as much as a 4-fold rise). Linoleic acid has essential functions in the body in skin and as a precursor of prostaglandins and related compounds. The current intakes of linoleic acid are well in excess of the minimum requirements. In this review, the effects of a food supply rich in linoleic acid on pain in arthritis and headache, non-alcoholic fatty liver and neural function are explored, with emphasis on lipid mediators derived from linoleic acid and other long chain polyunsaturated fatty acids. The current world food systems have created an imbalance of dietary linoleic acid in relation to n-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids, and an imbalance in the lipid mediators derived from these polyunsaturated fatty acids which may be contributing to sub-optimal health status.     

340,000 t/y Paper Projects to Settle in Ganzhou, Jiangxi

The contract to build a culture paper and tissue paper project with an annual output of 340,000 tons was formally signed in Ganzhou, Jiangxi Province on June 4, 2009. This is a major project in the city in term of attracting new     

Preparation and uncertainty evaluation of standard samples for testing of dye transfer inhibition in washing北大核心CSCD

As for domestic washing the problem of fabric dye transfer in washing is becoming more and more serious which leads to the decrease of added value of fabrics and affects the aesthetics. With the improvement of people's living standards the demand for fabrics with high color saturation is increasing day by day. However fabrics with high color saturation are often accompanied by problems such as fabric dye transfer in the washing process which has become a pain point in clothing washing. For this reason washing machines at home and abroad are generally equipped with dye transfer inhibition and color protection washing procedures to alleviate the dye transfer phenomenon caused by mixed washing. Jiangnan University and Wuxi Little Swan Electric Co. Ltd. have carried out a series of studies on the formulation of dye transfer inhibition washing standards and the development of standard samples. In order to realize scientific and objective evaluation of dye transfer inhibition performance and solve the problem of lack of standard samples in washing dye transfer inhibition tests white cloth standard samples and red cloth standard samples for washing dye transfer inhibition tests were prepared to simulate light color clothes and dark color clothes in mixed washing. The color depth and water fastness of the prepared standard color cloth are 0. 2% and grade 3 respectively which comply with the provisions of GB / T 12490 - 2014 Textiles—Tests for Colour Fastness—Color Fastness to Domestic and Commercial Laundering. The homogeneity of standard white cloth and standard red cloth were tested by variance analysis the short-term stability test and long-term stability test were carried out for the data with an interval of one month and one year respectively by using the stability test formula. For the whiteness and color difference data tested by seven laboratories in order to analyze the normality of the fixed value data it is necessary to conduct a normality test on the obtained data. For this reason the skewness and kurtosis methods are used to conduct a normality test. The indicators tested include the average standard error standard deviation skewness skewness standard deviation kurtosis and kurtosis standard deviation etc. And Cochrane criterion and Dixon criterion are used to judge whether there are outliers. The indicators tested include statistics low-end outliers and high-end outliers. When calculating the uncertainty the uniformity short-term stability long-term stability and uncertainty introduced in the process of setting are calculated respectively to obtain the combined uncertainty. The results show that the standard white cloth and standard colored cloth have good uniformity and high stability. The combined uncertainty of the standard white cloth is 0. 365 8 and the combined uncertainty of the standard color cloth is 0. 358 0. The uncertainty mainly comes from the uncertainty introduced in the process of value determination. The uncertainty introduced by the uniformity short-term stability and long-term stability has little impact. This paper has prepared the standard sample for washing dye transfer inhibition test and provided the standard sample that is missing in the washing dye transfer inhibition test which is expected to realize the objective evaluation of the dye transfer inhibition performance promote the development of the dye transfer inhibition program carried by the washing machine and realize the scientific evaluation of the washing dye transfer inhibition performance. © 2022 Authors. All rights reserved.     

A Kinetic Model for Describing the Effect of Proteins on the Air-Water Interface Tension

The main objective of this work was to develop a kinetic model to describe the variation of the surface tension in an air-water interface due to the adsorption of proteins from different origins and to identify quantitatively the relevant parameters, it was considered that the processes of adsorption, unfolding and reordering of the protein molecule in the interface occur simultaneously. The model used in the present work to calculate the surface tension postulates the existence of two simultaneous processes, adsorption and protein rearrangement represented with an equation of first order with two exponential components. The relevant parameter of the equation are ka and kr-the rate constants of the two first order kinetic phases that correspond to both conformational states of the protein, adsorption and rearrangement during the process of variation of the surface tension, and the amplitude parameters Aa and Ar. The results suggest that the kinetic model for the variation of the surface tension of protein solutions proposed in this work, with two simultaneous first order processes, is more appropriate than previous models to describe such variation.     

Research progress on chemical modification of silk fibroin and its applications北大核心CSCD

Mulberry silk is composed of the two major parts of two triangle-like silk fibroin fibers and sericin covering the fibers and a few lipids. After removing the sericin on the raw silk what is left is the silk fibroin fiber. Silk fibroin is the main part of silk accounting for about 75% of the total weight. Silk fibroin contains 18 natural amino acids such as glycine Gly alanine Ala serine Ser serine aspartic acid Asp and tyrosine Tyr . The secondary structure of silk fibroin has three main conformations α-helix β-fold and random coil. Under certain conditions the three conformations can transform into each other and change the mechanical properties of the silk fibroin material. Silk fibroin extracted from silk fiber is a natural polymer with biocompatibility and biodegradability. It can be further processed into different forms of materials nanoparticles films hydrogels sponges etc. It has been applied in many fields such as biomedicine and cosmetics. In order to meet the needs of different fields researchers have conducted further chemical modification treatment based on the original excellent properties of silk fibroin. Meanwhile the active groups on various amino acid residues in silk fibroin also provide chemical reaction sites for the chemical modification of silk fibroin. The chemical modification methods of silk fibroin mainly include amino acid residue modification macromolecular grafting modification and crosslinking reaction modification. Among them amino acid residue modification can modify protein amino acid residues by chemical reagents and some groups can be introduced into the side chains of silk fibroin macromolecules. Grafting modification of silk fibroin macromolecules is one of the main means to bind functional compounds to silk fibroin macromolecular chains. The properties of grafted silk fibroin are affected by the type and grafting rate of the grafts. The chemical crosslinking reaction modification of silk fibroin macromolecules is to make the macromolecular chains connected by covalent bonds and form a network structure by means of crosslinking agents enzymes or ultraviolet irradiation. The cross-linking reaction can not only form covalent bonds within and between the molecular chains of silk fibroin thus changing its structural properties and improving its stability but be used to form covalent bonds with other polymers. At present the chemical modification of silk fibroin is mainly applied in the fields of silk textiles biomedicine and environmental science. In the field of silk textiles graft copolymerization modification of vinyl and other monomers crosslinking agent modification and other methods are used to overcome the shortcomings of silk like being easy to wrinkle. The graft modified monomers mainly include ethylene methacrylate and methylacrylamide. The active groups on crosslinking agents such as polycarboxylic acid / anhydride and epoxide are covalently combined with carboxyl hydroxyl and amino groups on macromolecules of silk fibroin to improve the wrinkle resistance of silk fabrics. In the field of biomedicine silk fibroin materials with appropriate chemical modification have better biological activity drug delivery ability antimicrobial properties and mechanical properties. The optimization of these properties enables silk fibroin materials to show great potential in drug control delivery tissue regeneration and wound repair. The applied research in the field of environmental science mainly focuses on the adsorption separation and catalysis of impurities in water. Therefore the modification of amino acid residues grafting and cross-linking of protein macromolecules can change some important properties of silk fibroin and meet the requirements of various applications and functionalization of silk fibroin. In many fields of chemical modification and application of silk fibroin protein fruitful results have been achieved which has laid a good foundation for the further development of related fields and also shows that the chemical modification of silk fibroin material has great potential and application prospects. However there are still some problems that need to be overcome and further improved in the current chemical modification methods such as mild modification conditions and accurate adjustment of the degree of modification which will be the research direction of related fields in the future. © 2022 Authors. All rights reserved.     

Green and Effective Ammonium Carbonate-assisted Process for Drying Hemicellulose Obtained through Alkali Extraction of Bleached Bamboo Kraft Pulp

Hemicellulose has a wide range of applications,including that as an emulsifier for the food industry and raw material for the synthesis of bioethanol/biochemicals and biodegradable films.Hemicellulose is usually present as a spent liquor,such as the prehydrolysis liquor of the prehydrolysis kraft dissolving pulp production process and the alkali extraction liquor of the cold caustic extraction of pulp fibers.Due to its dilute nature,hemicellulose needs to be dried for practical utilization,and this is challenging.In this study,cellulose and hemicellulose in a bleached bamboo kraft pulp were separated using an alkali extraction process.Hemicellulose obtained from the extraction liquor was dried by an ammonium carbonate-assisted drying process.The effects of drying time and drying temperature were determined.Structure of the hemicellulose obtained by the ammonium carbonate-assisted drying process was similar to that of original hemicellulose,as revealed by detailed Fourier transform infrared and X-ray diffraction analyses.The novel drying method was more energy efficient and required a shorter drying time than the conventional freeze drying method,and the excellent solubility in alkaline solutions favored the chemical modification of hemicellulose.The dried hemicellulose can be used as a renewable raw material for the preparation of hydrogels and other substances such as bioethanol/biochemicals and biodegradable films.     

Characteristics of Carboxymethyl Hemicellulose (CMX) and Its Strengthening Mechanism

In this study,three kinds of rough-wrought hemicelluloses(RHCs)were obtained via alkali extraction on different raw materials.One was untreated Phyllostachys edulis powder;the second was obtained via benzyl alcohol extraction of Phyllostachys edulis powder;and the third was holocellulose of Phyllostachys edulis powder.Carboxymethyl hemicelluloses(CMXs)were prepared by the alkalization and etherification of RHCs and were used to enhance the tensile strength of household paper.The results demonstrated a synergistic effect between CMX and polyamide epichlorohydrin resin(PAE),and the addition of small amount of CMX(0.35 kg/t pulp)can significantly improve the dry and wet tensile indices of paper.Study results of CMX strengthening mechanism revealed that the addition of CMX can improve the retention of PAE,especially the fine fiber,due to the adsorption of charges.The use of CMX in paper not only saves production costs but also reduces the proportion of long fiber,which is beneficial to the closed circulation and treatment of white water.     

Jiangxi Chenming 350,000 t/a High-Grade Food Packaging Paper Project Passed the Energy Assessment

The 350,000 t/a high-grade food packaging paper project of Jiangxi Chenming Paper Co., Ltd. has passed the energy assessment and examination according to the Development and Reform Commission of Jiangxi Province. The project is expected to put into operation in March, 2015