Depth‐integrated free‐surface flow with a two‐layer non‐hydrostatic formulation

This paper presents the derivation of a depth‐integrated wave propagation and runup model from a system of governing equations for two‐layer non‐hydrostatic flows. The governing equations are transformed into an equivalent, depth‐integrated system, which separately describes the flux‐dominated and dispersion‐dominated processes. The depth‐integrated system reproduces the linear dispersion relation within a 5 error for water depth parameter up to kd = 11, while allowing direct implementation of a momentum conservation scheme to model wave breaking and a moving‐waterline technique for runup calculation. A staggered finite‐difference scheme discretizes the governing equations in the horizontal dimension and the Keller box scheme reconstructs the non‐hydrostatic terms in the vertical direction. An semi‐implicit scheme integrates the depth‐integrated flow in time with the non‐hydrostatic pressure determined from a Poisson‐type equation. The model is verified with solitary wave propagation in a channel of uniform depth and validated with previous laboratory experiments for wave transformation over a submerged bar, a plane beach, and fringing reefs. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A depth‐integrated non‐hydrostatic finite element model for wave propagation

This paper presents a two‐dimensional finite element model for simulating dynamic propagation of weakly dispersive waves. Shallow water equations including extra non‐hydrostatic pressure terms and a depth‐integrated vertical momentum equation are solved with linear distributions assumed in the vertical direction for the non‐hydrostatic pressure and the vertical velocity. The model is developed based on the platform of a finite element model, CCHE2D. A physically bounded upwind scheme for the advection term discretization is developed, and the quasi second‐order differential operators of this scheme result in no oscillation and little numerical diffusion. The depth‐integrated non‐hydrostatic wave model is solved semi‐implicitly: the provisional flow velocity is first implicitly solved using the shallow water equations; the non‐hydrostatic pressure, which is implicitly obtained by ensuring a divergence‐free velocity field, is used to correct the provisional velocity, and finally the depth‐integrated continuity equation is explicitly solved to satisfy global mass conservation. The developed wave model is verified by an analytical solution and validated by laboratory experiments, and the computed results show that the wave model can properly handle linear and nonlinear dispersive waves, wave shoaling, diffraction, refraction and focusing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A high‐order Petrov–Galerkin finite element method for the classical Boussinesq wave model

A high‐order Petrov–Galerkin finite element scheme is presented to solve the one‐dimensional depth‐integrated classical Boussinesq equations for weakly non‐linear and weakly dispersive waves. Finite elements are used both in the space and the time domains. The shape functions are bilinear in space–time, whereas the weighting functions are linear in space and quadratic in time, with C⁰‐continuity. Dispersion correction and a highly selective dissipation mechanism are introduced through additional streamline upwind terms in the weighting functions. An implicit, conditionally stable, one‐step predictor–corrector time integration scheme results. The accuracy and stability of the non‐linear discrete equations are investigated by means of a local Taylor series expansion. A linear spectral analysis is used for the full characterization of the predictor–corrector inner iterations. Based on the order of the analytical terms of the Boussinesq model and on the order of the numerical discretization, it is concluded that the scheme is fourth‐order accurate in terms of phase velocity. The dissipation term is third order only affecting the shortest wavelengths. A numerical convergence analysis showed a second‐order convergence rate in terms of both element size and time step. Four numerical experiments are addressed and their results are compared with analytical solutions or experimental data available in the literature: the propagation of a solitary wave, the oscillation of a flat bottom closed basin, the oscillation of a non‐flat bottom closed basin, and the propagation of a periodic wave over a submerged bar. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Depth‐integrated,non‐hydrostatic model with grid nesting for tsunami generation,propagation, and run‐up

Tsunamis generated by earthquakes involve physical processes of different temporal and spatial scales that extend across the ocean to the shore. This paper presents a shock‐capturing dispersive wave model in the spherical coordinate system for basin‐wide evolution and coastal run‐up of tsunamis and discusses the implementation of a two‐way grid‐nesting scheme to describe the wave dynamics at resolution compatible to the physical processes. The depth‐integrated model describes dispersive waves through the non‐hydrostatic pressure and vertical velocity, which also account for tsunami generation from dynamic seafloor deformation. The semi‐implicit, finite difference model captures flow discontinuities associated with bores or hydraulic jumps through the momentum‐conserved advection scheme with an upwind flux approximation. The two‐way grid‐nesting scheme utilizes the Dirichlet condition of the non‐hydrostatic pressure and both the horizontal velocity and surface elevation at the inter‐grid boundary to ensure propagation of dispersive waves and discontinuities across computational grids of different resolution. The inter‐grid boundary can adapt to bathymetric features to model nearshore wave transformation processes at optimal resolution and computational efficiency. A coordinate transformation enables application of the model to small geographic regions or laboratory experiments with a Cartesian grid. A depth‐dependent Gaussian function smoothes localized bottom features in relation to the water depth while retaining the bathymetry important for modeling of tsunami transformation and run‐up. Numerical experiments of solitary wave propagation and N‐wave run‐up verify the implementation of the grid‐nesting scheme. The 2009 Samoa Tsunami provides a case study to confirm the validity and effectiveness of the modeling approach for tsunami research and impact assessment. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Non‐hydrostatic 3D free surface layer‐structured finite volume model for short wave propagation

In this paper a layer‐structured finite volume model for non‐hydrostatic 3D environmental free surface flow is presented and applied to several test cases, which involve the computation of gravity waves. The 3D unsteady momentum and mass conservation equations are solved in a collocated grid made of polyhedrons, which are built from a 2D horizontal unstructured mesh, by just adding several horizontal layers. The mesh built in such a way is unstructured in the horizontal plane, but structured in the vertical direction. This procedure simplifies the mesh generation and at the same time it produces a well‐oriented mesh for stratified flows, which are common in environmental problems. The model reduces to a 2D depth‐averaged shallow water model when one single layer is defined in the mesh. Pressure–velocity coupling is achieved by the Semi‐Implicit Method for Pressure‐Linked Equations algorithm, using Rhie–Chow interpolation to stabilize the pressure field. An attractive property of the model proposed is the ability to compute the propagation of short waves with a rather coarse vertical discretization. Several test cases are solved in order to show the capabilities and numerical stability of the model, including a rectangular free oscillating basin, a radially symmetric wave, short wave propagation over a 1D bar, solitary wave runup on a vertical wall, and short wave refraction over a 2D shoal. In all the cases the numerical results are compared either with analytical or with experimental data. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A Petrov–Galerkin finite element model for one‐dimensional fully non‐linear and weakly dispersive wave propagation

A new finite element method is presented to solve one‐dimensional depth‐integrated equations for fully non‐linear and weakly dispersive waves. For spatial integration, the Petrov–Galerkin weighted residual method is used. The weak forms of the governing equations are arranged in such a way that the shape functions can be piecewise linear, while the weighting functions are piecewise cubic with C²‐continuity. For the time integration an implicit predictor–corrector iterative scheme is employed. Within the framework of linear theory, the accuracy of the scheme is discussed by considering the truncation error at a node. The leading truncation error is fourth‐order in terms of element size. Numerical stability of the scheme is also investigated. If the Courant number is less than 0.5, the scheme is unconditionally stable. By increasing the number of iterations and/or decreasing the element size, the stability characteristics are improved significantly. Both Dirichlet boundary condition (for incident waves) and Neumann boundary condition (for a reflecting wall) are implemented. Several examples are presented to demonstrate the range of applicabilities and the accuracy of the model. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Boundary‐fitted non‐linear dispersive wave model for regions of arbitrary geometry

A vertically integrated non‐linear dispersive wave model is expressed in non‐orthogonal curvilinear co‐ordinate system for simulating shallow or deep water wave motions in regions of arbitrary geometry. Both dependent and independent variables are transformed so that an irregular physical domain is converted into a rectangular computational domain with contravariant velocities. Thus, the wall condition for enclosures surrounding a typical physical domain, such as a channel, port or harbor, is satisfied accurately and easily. The numerical scheme is based on staggered grid finite‐difference approximations, which result in implicit formulations for the momentum equations and semi‐explicit formulation for the continuity equation. Test cases of linear wave propagation in converging, diverging and circular channels are performed to check the reliability of model simulations against the analytical solutions. Cnoidal waves of different steepness values in a circular channel are also considered as examples to non‐linear wave propagation within curved walls. In closing, remarks concerning versatility and practical uses of the numerical model are made. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Three‐dimensional numerical modelling of free surface flows with non‐hydrostatic pressure

A three‐dimensional numerical model is developed for incompressible free surface flows. The model is based on the unsteady Reynolds‐averaged Navier–Stokes equations with a non‐hydrostatic pressure distribution being incorporated in the model. The governing equations are solved in the conventional sigma co‐ordinate system, with a semi‐implicit time discretization. A fractional step method is used to enable the pressure to be decomposed into its hydrostatic and hydrodynamic components. At every time step one five‐diagonal system of equations is solved to compute the water elevations and then the hydrodynamic pressure is determined from a pressure Poisson equation. The model is applied to three examples to simulate unsteady free surface flows where non‐hydrostatic pressures have a considerable effect on the velocity field. Emphasis is focused on applying the model to wave problems. Two of the examples are about modelling small amplitude waves where the hydrostatic approximation and long wave theory are not valid. The other example is the wind‐induced circulation in a closed basin. The numerical solutions are compared with the available analytical solutions for small amplitude wave theory and very good agreement is obtained. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Hybrid finite‐volume finite‐difference scheme for the solution of Boussinesq equations

A hybrid scheme composed of finite‐volume and finite‐difference methods is introduced for the solution of the Boussinesq equations. While the finite‐volume method with a Riemann solver is applied to the conservative part of the equations, the higher‐order Boussinesq terms are discretized using the finite‐difference scheme. Fourth‐order accuracy in space for the finite‐volume solution is achieved using the MUSCL‐TVD scheme. Within this, four limiters have been tested, of which van‐Leer limiter is found to be the most suitable. The Adams–Basforth third‐order predictor and Adams–Moulton fourth‐order corrector methods are used to obtain fourth‐order accuracy in time. A recently introduced surface gradient technique is employed for the treatment of the bottom slope. A new model ‘HYWAVE’, based on this hybrid solution, has been applied to a number of wave propagation examples, most of which are taken from previous studies. Examples include sinusoidal waves and bi‐chromatic wave propagation in deep water, sinusoidal wave propagation in shallow water and sinusoidal wave propagation from deep to shallow water demonstrating the linear shoaling properties of the model. Finally, sinusoidal wave propagation over a bar is simulated. The results are in good agreement with the theoretical expectations and published experimental results. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Numerical simulations of inviscid and viscous free‐surface flows with application to nonlinear water waves

The purpose of the present study is to establish a numerical model appropriate for solving inviscid/viscous free‐surface flows related to nonlinear water wave propagation. The viscous model presented herein is based on the Navier–Stokes equations, and the free‐surface is calculated through an arbitrary Lagrangian–Eulerian streamfunction‐vorticity formulation. The streamfunction field is governed by the Poisson equation, and the vorticity is obtained on the basis of the vorticity transport equation. For computing the inviscid flow the Laplace streamfunction equation is used. These equations together with the respective (appropriate) fully nonlinear free‐surface boundary conditions are solved using a finite difference method. To demonstrate the model feasibility, in the present study we first simulate collision processes of two solitary waves of different amplitudes, and compute the phenomenon of overtaking of such solitary waves. The developed model is subsequently applied to calculate (both inviscid and the viscous) flow field, as induced by passing of a solitary wave over submerged rectangular structures and rigid ripple beds. Our study provides a reasonably good understanding of the behavior of (inviscid/viscous) free‐surface flows, within the framework of streamfunction‐vorticity formulation. The successful simulation of the above‐mentioned test cases seems to suggest that the arbitrary Lagrangian–Eulerian/streamfunction‐vorticity formulation is a potentially powerful approach, capable of effectively solving the fully nonlinear inviscid/viscous free‐surface flow interactions. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A two‐dimensional vertical non‐hydrostatic σ model with an implicit method for free‐surface flows

An implicit finite difference model in the σ co‐ordinate system is developed for non‐hydrostatic, two‐dimensional vertical plane free‐surface flows. To accurately simulate interaction of free‐surface flows with uneven bottoms, the unsteady Navier–Stokes equations and the free‐surface boundary condition are solved simultaneously in a regular transformed σ domain using a fully implicit method in two steps. First, the vertical velocity and pressure are expressed as functions of horizontal velocity. Second, substituting these relationship into the horizontal momentum equation provides a block tri‐diagonal matrix system with the unknown of horizontal velocity, which can be solved by a direct matrix solver without iteration. A new treatment of non‐hydrostatic pressure condition at the top‐layer cell is developed and found to be important for resolving the phase of wave propagation. Additional terms introduced by the σ co‐ordinate transformation are discretized appropriately in order to obtain accurate and stable numerical results. The developed model has been validated by several tests involving free‐surface flows with strong vertical accelerations and non‐linear waves interacting with uneven bottoms. Comparisons among numerical results, analytical solutions and experimental data show the capability of the model to simulate free‐surface flow problems. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

An implicit three‐dimensional fully non‐hydrostatic model for free‐surface flows

An implicit method is developed for solving the complete three‐dimensional (3D) Navier–Stokes equations. The algorithm is based upon a staggered finite difference Crank‐Nicholson scheme on a Cartesian grid. A new top‐layer pressure treatment and a partial cell bottom treatment are introduced so that the 3D model is fully non‐hydrostatic and is free of any hydrostatic assumption. A domain decomposition method is used to segregate the resulting 3D matrix system into a series of two‐dimensional vertical plane problems, for each of which a block tri‐diagonal system can be directly solved for the unknown horizontal velocity. Numerical tests including linear standing waves, nonlinear sloshing motions, and progressive wave interactions with uneven bottoms are performed. It is found that the model is capable to simulate accurately a range of free‐surface flow problems using a very small number of vertical layers (e.g. two–four layers). The developed model is second‐order accuracy in time and space and is unconditionally stable; and it can be effectively used to model 3D surface wave motions. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Numerical study of breaking waves by a two‐phase flow model

A two‐phase flow model, which solves the flow in the air and water simultaneously, is presented for modelling breaking waves in deep and shallow water, including wave pre‐breaking, overturning and post‐breaking processes. The model is based on the Reynolds‐averaged Navier–Stokes equations with the k ?ε turbulence model. The governing equations are solved by the finite volume method in a Cartesian staggered grid and the partial cell treatment is implemented to deal with complex geometries. The SIMPLE algorithm is utilised for the pressure‐velocity coupling and the air‐water interface is modelled by the interface capturing method via a high resolution volume of fluid scheme. The numerical model is validated by simulating overturning waves on a sloping beach and over a reef, and deep‐water breaking waves in a periodic domain, in which good agreement between numerical results and available experimental measurements for the water surface profiles during wave overturning is obtained. The overturning jet, air entrainment and splash‐up during wave breaking have been captured by the two‐phase flow model, which demonstrates the capability of the model to simulate free surface flow and wave breaking problems.Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A semi‐implicit finite element model for non‐hydrostatic (dispersive) surface waves

The objective of this research is to develop a model that will adequately simulate the dynamics of tsunami propagating across the continental shelf. In practical terms, a large spatial domain with high resolution is required so that source areas and runup areas are adequately resolved. Hence efficiency of the model is a major issue. The three‐dimensional Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes equations are depth‐averaged to yield a set of equations that are similar to the shallow water equations but retain the non‐hydrostatic pressure terms. This approach differs from the development of the Boussinesq equations where pressure is eliminated in favour of high‐order velocity and geometry terms. The model gives good results for several test problems including an oscillating basin, propagation of a solitary wave, and a wave transformation over a bar. The hydrostatic and non‐hydrostatic versions of the model are compared for a large‐scale problem where a fault rupture generates a tsunami on the New Zealand continental shelf. The model efficiency is also very good and execution times are about a factor of 1.8 to 5 slower than the standard shallow water model, depending on problem size. Moreover, there are at least two methods to increase model accuracy when warranted: choosing a more optimal vertical interpolation function, and dividing the problem into layers. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Numerical simulation of free‐surface flow using the level‐set method with global mass correction

A new numerical method that couples the incompressible Navier–Stokes equations with the global mass correction level‐set method for simulating fluid problems with free surfaces and interfaces is presented in this paper. The finite volume method is used to discretize Navier–Stokes equations with the two‐step projection method on a staggered Cartesian grid. The free‐surface flow problem is solved on a fixed grid in which the free surface is captured by the zero level set. Mass conservation is improved significantly by applying a global mass correction scheme, in a novel combination with third‐order essentially non‐oscillatory schemes and a five stage Runge–Kutta method, to accomplish advection and re‐distancing of the level‐set function. The coupled solver is applied to simulate interface change and flow field in four benchmark test cases: (1) shear flow; (2) dam break; (3) travelling and reflection of solitary wave and (4) solitary wave over a submerged object. The computational results are in excellent agreement with theoretical predictions, experimental data and previous numerical simulations using a RANS‐VOF method. The simulations reveal some interesting free‐surface phenomena such as the free‐surface vortices, air entrapment and wave deformation over a submerged object. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The numerical study of roll‐waves in inclined open channels and solitary wave run‐up

In this paper, we introduce a finite‐volume kinetic BGK scheme and its applications to the study of roll and solitary waves. The current scheme is based on the numerical solution of the gas‐kinetic Bhatnagar–Gross–Krook model in the flux evaluation across each cell interface. An intrinsic connection between the BGK model and time‐dependent, non‐linear, non‐homogeneous shallow‐water equations enables us to solve shallow‐water equations automatically with our kinetic scheme. The analytical solution, experimental measurements, and numerical calculations for problems associated with roll‐waves down an inclined open channel and solitary waves incident on a sloped beach are also presented. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Boussinesq cut‐cell model for non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures

Boussinesq models describe the phase‐resolved hydrodynamics of unbroken waves and wave‐induced currents in shallow coastal waters. Many enhanced versions of the Boussinesq equations are available in the literature, aiming to improve the representation of linear dispersion and non‐linearity. This paper describes the numerical solution of the extended Boussinesq equations derived by Madsen and Sørensen (Coastal Eng. 1992; 15 :371–388) on Cartesian cut‐cell grids, the aim being to model non‐linear wave interaction with coastal structures. An explicit second‐order MUSCL‐Hancock Godunov‐type finite volume scheme is used to solve the non‐linear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq‐type equations. Interface fluxes are evaluated using an HLLC approximate Riemann solver. A ghost‐cell immersed boundary method is used to update flow information in the smallest cut cells and overcome the time step restriction that would otherwise apply. The model is validated for solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall, diffraction of a solitary wave by a truncated barrier, and solitary wave scattering and diffraction from a vertical circular cylinder. In all cases, the model gives satisfactory predictions in comparison with the published analytical solutions and experimental measurements. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Comparisons of CIP,compact and CIP‐CSL2 schemes for reproducing internal solitary waves

Six different models were evaluated for reproducing internal solitary waves which occur and propagate in a stratified flow field with a sharp interface. Three stages were used to compute internal solitary waves in a stratified field: (1) first‐phase computation of momentum equations, (2) second‐phase computation of momentum equations, which corresponds to computing the Poisson's equation, and (3) density computation. The six models discussed in this paper consisted of combinations of four different schemes, a three‐point combined compact difference scheme (CCD), a normal central difference scheme (CDS), a cubic‐polynomial interpolation (CIP), and an exactly conservative semi‐Lagrangian scheme (CIP‐CSL2). The residual cutting method was used to solve the Poisson's equation. Three tests were used to confirm the validity of the computations using KdV theory; i.e. the incremental wave speed and amplitude of internal solitary waves, the maximum horizontal velocity and amplitude, and the wave form. In terms of the shape of an internal solitary wave, using CIP for momentum equations was found to provide better performance than CCD. These results suggest one of the most appropriate scheme for reproducing internal solitary waves may be one in which CIP is used for momentum equations and CCD to solve the Poisson's equation. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Solution of the hyperbolic mild‐slope equation using the finite volume method

A finite volume solver for the 2D depth‐integrated harmonic hyperbolic formulation of the mild‐slope equation for wave propagation is presented and discussed. The solver is implemented on unstructured triangular meshes and the solution methodology is based upon a Godunov‐type second‐order finite volume scheme, whereby the numerical fluxes are computed using Roe's flux function. The eigensystem of the mild‐slope equations is derived and used for the construction of Roe's matrix. A formulation that updates the unknown variables in time implicitly is presented, which produces a more accurate and reliable scheme than hitherto available. Boundary conditions for different types of boundaries are also derived. The agreement of the computed results with analytical results for a range of wave propagation/transformation problems is very good, and the model is found to be virtually paraxiality‐free. Copyright © 2003 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

CFD simulation of two‐ and three‐dimensional free‐surface flow

The paper describes the implementation of moving‐mesh and free‐surface capabilities within a 3‐d finite‐volume Reynolds‐averaged‐Navier–Stokes solver, using surface‐conforming multi‐block structured meshes. The free‐surface kinematic condition can be applied in two ways: enforcing zero net mass flux or solving the kinematic equation by a finite‐difference method. The free surface is best defined by intermediate control points rather than the mesh vertices. Application of the dynamic boundary condition to the piezometric pressure at these points provides a hydrostatic restoring force which helps to eliminate any unnatural free‐surface undulations. The implementation of time‐marching methods on moving grids are described in some detail and it is shown that a second‐order scheme must be applied in both scalar‐transport and free‐surface equations if flows driven by free‐surface height variations are to be computed without significant wave attenuation using a modest number of time steps. Computations of five flows of theoretical and practical interest—forced motion in a pump, linear waves in a tank, quasi‐1d flow over a ramp, solitary wave interaction with a submerged obstacle and 3‐d flow about a surface‐penetrating cylinder—are described to illustrate the capabilities of our code and methods. Copyright © 2003 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.