‘Comfort and Freedom’: The Duke of Windsor’s Wardrobe

Abstract

Clothing belonging to the late Duke of Windsor (1894–1972), which remained in his Paris home until it was dispersed in 1998, provides an insight into both his taste and character. As the young and popular Prince of Wales in the 1920s, he courted notions of modernity, celebrity and informality, rejecting the stiff conventions of his father’s dress and court. His innovative sense of style was emulated on both sides of the Atlantic. Throughout his life he remained loyal to the tailors and haberdashers who helped to craft his image and provide the comfort and freedom he craved in his clothes. This paper considers how some of the surviving garments in his wardrobe can help to define the man who was Prince of Wales, King Edward VIII and Duke of Windsor.     

‘An old and faithful servand’: A Pair of Early Seventeenth-Century Gauntlet Gloves given by King Charles I to Sir Henry Wardlaw

Abstract

A pair of embroidered seventeenth-century gauntlet gloves, reputedly presented by King Charles I to his courtier Sir Henry Wardlaw, was donated to the University of St Andrews in 2001. This article sets out to uncover the truth behind this nearly four-hundred-year-old family legend by investigating Sir Henry’s royal connections and the social significance of the gauntlet gloves as a high-status, luxury clothing accessory. Based on the study of historic gloves in museum and private collections, it endeavours to date the gloves by discussing their design and manufacture within the context of seventeenth-century clothing fashion. This article also explores the symbolism behind the gauntlet gloves’ decorative scheme by unravelling some of the hidden messages that are conveyed about cultural, religious, political and technological developments and perspectives through seventeenth-century embroidery.     

着装舒适性影响因素探讨

阐述了服装舒适性的概念和内涵 ,并从服装人体工效学的角度探讨了人、服装、环境对着装舒适性的影响 ,为更好地提高着装舒适性提供了参考依据     

‘They tell me they were in fashion last year’: Samuel and Elizabeth Jeake and Clothing Fashions in Late Seventeenth-Century London and Rye

This article examines high fashion culture in late seventeenth-century London and Rye, focusing on the ways that Rye merchant, Samuel Jeake (1652–1699), and his wife, Elizabeth (1667–1736), engaged with the London fashion market at a time when the transmission of fashion styles was still primarily by word of mouth. Both Samuel and Elizabeth were intensely concerned to appear fashionable in provincial Rye. Correspondence between Samuel and Elizabeth and their London relatives shows how fashion information was being communicated between London and Rye and the speed with which clothing fashions changed in the capital. The discussion of Samuel and Elizabeth’s engagement with fashion is framed by an analysis of contemporary satirical literature which takes the supposed obsession of the English with fashion as its theme.     

Performance relevant to the thermophysiological wear comfort of hip protective garments,Part I: clothing area factor of hip protective garments in clothing ensembles

The clothing area factors of several hip protective garments, alone and in ensembles, were studied in this research (Part I). Two methods were used to determine the clothing factor area: the standard photography method, and a newly developed method involving 3D scanning. The results from the two methods were consistent; therefore, either method can be used to determine clothing area factors, depending on the available equipment. The methods can be used to determine the thermal insulation performance of hip protective garments and garments in ensembles, as covered in Part II of the study.     

Giles Moore’s Clothes:The Clothing of a Sussex Rector,1656–1679

Abstract

This article uses the household account book of Giles Moore, rector of Horsted Keynes in Sussex from 1656 to 1679, to explore clothing production, supply and consumption in rural England in the second half of the seventeenth century. Moore’s detailed record-keeping provides an insight into the supply and acquisition of textiles and clothing, as well as the clothing choices of a well-to-do country parson. A careful analysis of this underused source reveals Moore’s attitudes to shopping and clothing through his selection of shops, trade and craftsmen, his concerns about excessive prices, and his cloth, clothing and accessory choices. The article examines the range of shopping opportunities that were available to Moore and which ones he made use of, arguing that he exercised a high degree of consumer choice, made possible by a well-developed shopping culture. As well as the costs of his own clothing, Moore’s book records expenditure on that of his teenage niece, Martha Mayhew. In contrast to Moore’s shopping choices, we can see that Martha’s were considerably more circumscribed. This is consistent with recent studies of seventeenth-century consumption which have identified men rather than women as primary shoppers.     

防电磁辐射服装暴露面积对其屏蔽效能的影响

由于防电磁辐射面料制成服装后的屏蔽效能会因款式和暴露面积有所下降,研究服装暴露面积对屏蔽效能的影响可以为防电磁辐射类服装的研发提供参考。利用依据“开窗法”原理自行研制的独特防电磁辐射服装屏蔽效能测试系统,对不同款式的防电磁辐射服装进行效能测试和评估。结果表明：电磁屏蔽服装的屏蔽效能与服装款式和面料屏蔽效能这2个因素直接相关;在面料屏蔽效能相同的条件下,服装款式对防电磁辐射服装的屏蔽效能影响很大;西装类等暴露面积较大的屏蔽服装其屏蔽效能不佳,暴露面积过大的屏蔽服装几乎没有屏蔽效果。     

Marriage à la Mode,An Eighteenth-Century Wedding Dress,Hat and Shoes Set from the Olive Matthews Collection,Chertsey Museum

Abstract

A rare and important group of items, a set consisting of a wedding dress, hat and shoes, form part of the Olive Matthews Collection at Chertsey Museum. This paper looks in detail at the construction of each of these garments. It also provides an account of how key aspects of provenance were uncovered. Other examples of contemporary wedding dresses are discussed. Finally it goes on to demonstrate how the newly uncovered facts about these garments, reviewed alongside contemporary social and economic contextual details, can further enhance our understanding of these and similar surviving pieces.     

Dressed in Blue: The Impact of Woad on English Clothing,c. 1350–c. 1670

Abstract

This paper seeks to explore the changing importance of blue colours, blue dyes and woad in particular in England in the late Middle Ages and early modern period. It does so by considering six themes — the popularity and fashionability of blue; blue and its significance within the Order of the Garter; blue as a colour worn by the lower social groups and its association with poverty and livery; colour symbolism of blue; blue and court entertainments; blue and the liturgy — but it will start with a review of blue colours and blue dyes.     

分割法造型工艺技术在针织服装中的应用

由于针织服装具有易脱散的特性,一直以来分割线的应用是针织服装的禁忌,但可以充分利用针织面料所特有的线圈结构及面料特性来实现针织服装设计的分割效果,使针织服装更加丰富多彩.通过系统地阐述分割法种类、分割法造型工艺构成形式、分割法在针织服装中的应用,使之对分割类针织女装的设计、制作有一定的参考.掌握分割法在针织服装中的应用...     

Outside In: Making Sense of the Deliberate Concealment of Garments within Buildings

Abstract

The practice of deliberately concealing garments within the structure of buildings is described. These finds provide a means of exploring how space was conceived and experienced in the past, and how these deliberately hidden garments mediated, and continue to mediate, the relationship between people and the spaces they occupied, and may continue to occupy. The Deliberately Concealed Garments Project was set up in 1998 to locate, document and analyze garments found hidden within buildings. Concealments have preserved many textiles in the UK, mainland Europe, Australia and North America. The significance of these caches rests not only in the finds themselves, as rare items of dress, but also because of what they reveal about perceptions of built space. The concealments are believed to serve a protective function, not against the weather or immodesty, but against incoming malevolent forces. As apotropaic (evil-averting) agents they protect from within rather than as outer coverings or internal divisions. The paper discusses how garments concealed within buildings transform space through the work of metaphor.     

Effect of input tension of inlay yarn on the characteristics of knitted circular stretch fabrics and pressure generation

Stretch fabrics are used in manufacturing pressure garments to exert pressure over specific body parts in medical conditions like venous and lymphatic disorders, scar management, and bone and muscle injuries. The amount of therapeutic pressure required in each medical condition is different; therefore, there is a need to engineer the stretch properties of garments to match the requirements in each case. Limited information is available on the relationship between fabric properties and the pressure generated on the body. In this paper, an attempt has been made to study the effect of inlay yarn pre-tension at the time of manufacturing of stretch fabrics on the pressure generated by the garments. Results show that change in inlay pre-tension significantly changes the structural characteristics of the fabric but the load elongation behavior remains unchanged up to 100% extension. Pressure exerted on rigid cylindrical tubes increases with reduction factor of the fabric tube and the curvature of the cylinder.     

原始服饰元素在当代服装设计中的应用思考

原始服饰作为人类服饰发展史的起源,显现出其独特的地位和作用,同时也为后世的服饰演变奠定了基础。在其"生存"的年代里又被其他领域、思想、观念所影响着,由此而被赋予了更加深远的意义。研究了中国原始服饰元素的年代特征和基本内涵,并基于此探讨了传统服饰元素对当代服装设计的影响。     

Protective Strategies and Emotions Invested in Early Modern Danish Christening Garments

Abstract

In 2006–2007, Den Gamle By, National Open Air Museum of Urban History and Culture in Denmark staged a large exhibition of christening garments dating from the eighteenth century until the present. It was called “Christian Clothing and Baptismal Robes over 300 years.” More than 100 objects were exhibited. Garments for babies remind us of the vulnerability of the newborn and in this way they are emotional objects for us today and probably also in the past. Elements of vulnerability are especially obvious for modern viewers when the garments originate from earlier periods with much higher infant mortality rates than today. Parents in earlier centuries used various strategies to protect their small pagans from exposure to evil before baptism. In this way emotions were invested in the garments, but it is a challenge to access and analyze these emotions because the garments themselves do not constitute a language in the same way as written texts. The article will deal with three different material elements which might be considered protective strategies for babies. The first and longest part of the article presents the color red as a means of protection. The next section considers the use of metal as protection against evil and coins as vehicles of good fortune. The third and shortest section discusses the reuse of ritual garments in new ceremonial contexts. When their provenance is known, it is striking that several baptismal garments represent a reuse of garments from weddings or other rites de passage, as termed by Arnold van Gennep.     

新旧海派服饰风格比较

以近代和改革开放至今这2个时间范围为界限,以海派服饰的历史沿革与风格特征为依据,将海派服饰细分成旧海派与新海派这2个具有继承关系的组成部分,并分别对其下了定义;在分析旧海派服饰"中西合璧"和"全盘西化"的风格特征的基础上,指出它是以中国传统服饰和近代西方服饰之间彼此的横向交流为其风格的形成来源;在分析新海派服饰多种时尚并存的风格特征的基础上,指出它是以国际现代服饰的世界性多元化交流为其风格的形成来源。     

The History of the Dress Code at the University of Zagreb — From Jesuit Talers to Newly Designed Academic Gowns

Abstract

At the foundation of the Academy (University) in 1669, every person who achieved an academic degree earned the right to wear academic dress and other insignia. However, the Jesuit professors preferred to wear the garments of their order. Academic dress was not developed afterwards because the Empress Maria Theresia did not approve of it. At a later date the deans wore a gold chain with a pendant medal. There was a tradition in which a beadle carried the university mace on ceremonial occasions. There were official students' garments at the university from 1895 to 1942. New ceremonial academic robes were designed in 1998 based on historical research.     

着装舒适性影响因素的探讨

阐述了服装舒适性的概念和内涵,并从服装人体工效学的角度探讨了人、服装、环境对着装舒适性的影响,为更好地提高着装舒适性提供了方便     

北京奥运会技术官员体型判别和正装版型研究

以北京2008年奥运会技术官员正装的制作为背景,针对体育运动各项目的技术官员(裁判员)这一类人群的体型特征做了分析和判定,将技术官员体型分为9种类型,并根据不同体型确定正装版型的设计方法,以达到成功完成北京2008年奥运会技术官员正装制作的目的,并为体育界人士体型研究和服装版型研究积累了经验.     

Personal cooling garments: a review

Personal cooling garments have been developed to reduce the risk of heat stress and heat-related injuries in hot environments. The human body can suffer from a kind of heat stress resulting in reduced working endurance and performance and an increased risk of heat illness when exposed to hot climates. This gets worse when combined with physical work, such as firefighting, military drills, special work situations, and sports. The use of protective clothing which limits the sweat evaporation of the body can also make the situation worse. This review includes a brief look at the human thermoregulation and its relation with the cooling garments, classification of the personal cooling garments, testing procedures, and parameters affecting the efficiency of the cooling garments.