The Specific Heat of Hygroscopic Textiles

A comparison between the qualities of open-end- and ring-spun yarns produced from Egyptian cottons is reported. Yarns of different counts and twist factors were produced on both the BD 200 open-end-spinning machine and a conventional ring-spinning machine, and their quality was studied by determining their strength, uniformity, and number of imperfections. The quality of open-end-spun yarn relative to that of ring-spun yarn is expressed in terms of the relative quality factor.

It is shown that the percentage reduction in strength of open-end-spun yarns compared with that of ring-spun yarns can be minimized by spinning them to coarser counts from shorter cottons. This is attributed to the different interactions between the fibre properties and the mechanism of yarn formation when different types of cotton are used.

It is also shown that the relative quality of open-end-spun yarns can be considerably increased by spinning them to coarser counts from Ashmouni cotton. The quality of open-end-spun yarn can exceed that of ring-spun yarn when Ashmouni cotton is spun to a linear density exceeding 30 tex.

It is concluded that the BD 200 open-end-spinning machine cannot be recommended for spinning fine yarns from long-staple Egyptian cottons.     

43—FIBRE MIGRATION IN OPEN-END-SPUN YARNS

A study of the migration of fibres in open-end-spun yarns is reported. Samples of viscose rayon yarns were produced by the drum and air-vortex methods, and the results obtained on them were compared with those for a ring-spun yarn made from the same fibre. Migration was studied by determining three parameters: the helix profile, the mean fibre position, and the r.m.s. deviation, i.e., the root-mean-square value of the radial deviation of the helix profile from the mean fibre position. The geometry of fibre-packing in the yarn cross-section and the fibre extent were also studied.

It is shown that open-end-spun yarns are somewhat different in character from ring-spun yarns and that the most basic structural differences are found in the fibre extent, fibre migration, and fibre-packing density. The fibre migration in an open-end-spun yarn is shown to be as little as one-sixth of that in a typical ring-spun yam, and the difference in structure is important in that it can affect the yarn properties. It is concluded that the observed low strength of most open-end-spun yarns can be attributed to the poor fibre extent and inferior fibre migration within the yarn body and that their relatively high elongation can be explained in terms of the folded and entangled nature of the fibres.

An examination of the fibre geometry in the yarn shows that the design features of drum spinners are important with regard to the determination of the fibre extent, a tangential feed being preferable to an axial one.

The yarn cross-sections demonstrate that open-end spun yarns generally have a lower fibre-packing density than ring-spun yarns, which tends to give the yarn a more bulky nature; this is consistent with what might be expected from an assembly of tangled fibres.     

仪纶~(TM)纬平针织物的抗起毛起球性能

本文分别选用环锭纺、赛络纺、赛络紧密纺纺纱工艺,制备了同等纱支的仪纶~(TM)纯纺、仪纶~(TM)/棉(65/35)混纺针织纱线及其纬平针织物,对比测试了纱线性能及其织物抗起毛起球性能。实验结果显示:不同纺纱工艺的仪纶~(TM)针织纱线总体性能相似,赛络紧密纺纱线纱体结构更均匀;赛络纺织物的抗起毛起球性较环锭纺织物高0.5级,赛络紧密纺织物的抗起毛起球性明显好于环锭纺织物;混纺织物的抗起毛起球等级和起球粒数均有所改善。     

Wicking and drying properties of conventional ring- and vortex-spun cotton yarns and fabrics

This study investigated the vertical wicking, water absorption and drying properties of vortex- and ring-spun combed cotton yarns and knitted fabrics comparatively. The yarns were produced in three different counts as 30 Ne, 40 Ne and 50 Ne. The experimental results revealed that vortex-spun yarns had lower yarn and fabric wicking and water absorption values than ring-spun yarns. In addition, it was observed that yarn type did not have a significant impact on the drying time of the fabrics.     

The dimensional and mechanical properties of wool/polyester fabrics made from vortex and ring-spun yarns

Fabric woven from wool/polyester (PES) Murata vortex spun (MVS) blend yarn is a commercially viable proposition particularly on the basis of advantageous wear-resistant properties, compared with fabric made from traditional worsted ring-spun yarn. However, in some early industrial trials with fabric made from 45/55-blend wool/PES MVS yarn, significantly greater relaxation shrinkage was found relative to comparable worsted ring-spun fabric. It was noted at the time that the amount of relaxation shrinkage in MVS fabric could be reduced to a large extent by using steamed MVS yarn.

In this study, the extent of variations in the dimensional and mechanical properties of fabric samples woven from a combination of steamed and unsteamed MVS yarn and equivalent worsted ring-spun yarn is examined. In general, greater hygral expansion and relaxation shrinkage were found in loom-state fabrics made from unsteamed MVS yarns, whereas the fabric made from steamed MVS and ring-spun yarns gave relatively low levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion. Permanent setting of fabrics, by pressure steaming, was found to be more effective than yarn pre-steaming in reducing relaxation shrinkage levels of fabrics made from unsteamed MVS yarn. After pressure steaming, all fabrics showed similar levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion.

Permanent setting of the fabrics, by pressure steaming, resulted in similar levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion, irrespective of the yarn production method; relaxation shrinkage fell to around 1% and hygral expansion increased by about 1%, relative to the loom-state samples. MVS fabrics were relatively heavier and fuller and had a firmer handle than the worsted ring-spun fabrics, reflecting the greater fabric weight, thickness and shear rigidity measured on these fabrics. These attributes are associated with different structures of the worsted ring-spun and MVS yarns used to make the fabrics.     

Effect of Yarn Type and Twist Factor on Air Permeability,Absorbency, and Hand Properties of Open-end and Ring-spun Yarn Fabrics

The paper investigates the effects of yarn type, i.e. open-end yarn (OE) and ring-spun yarn (RS) and the twist factors of the warp (W) and filling (F) of the OE yarns on the permeability to air and moisture and the hand properties of various test fabrics woven from both OE and RS yarns. A comparison is made of the effect of yarn types and various twist levels of warp and filling of the OE yarns on the air permeability, absorbency, coefficient of friction and flexural rigidity of fabrics woven from such yarns.

It is intended that future studies will explore a wider range of twist levels and different yarn types than those investigated on this initial exercise.     

环锭纺纱和紧密纺纱罗纹针织物性能及其他物理性能

所有数据显示紧密纺纱织物的性能及其他物理参数优于精梳纱织物。相对于传统的环锭纺,紧密纺纱的毛羽指数低、强度高、条干均匀。紧密纺和环锭纺纱线结构上的差异明显地影响其织物性能、因此,尽管所有其他织物参数都相同,紧密纺纱生产的针织物相对于环锭纺纱针织物还是有着较短的线圈长度、较高的面密度、断裂强度、断裂伸长、顸破强力,以及更少的起毛起球。紧密纺纱线生产的针织物仅耐磨性稍差于环锭纺纱针织物．     

Assessing colour differences of viscose fabrics knitted from vortex-, ring- and open-end rotor-spun yarns after abrasion

The colour values of fabric samples that are knitted from vortex-spun (VS), open-end rotor-spun and ring-spun yarns were evaluated after abrasion. We measured the changes of colour properties of each sample, considering spinning system, dyeing concentration and abrasion cycle, which have effects on colour values. The colour values of dyed fabrics knitted from ring spun yarns showed less change after abrasion than that of dyed fabrics knitted from open-end rotor-spun and VS yarns, when the spinning systems were compared. The colour values of dyed fabrics knitted from VS yarns showed more changes after abrasion because of the smooth surface of VS yarns.     

Impact of structural variations in hollow yarn on heat and moisture transport properties of fabrics

The use of hollow/microporous yarns plays an important role in enhancing the thermo‐physiological comfort properties of fabrics. Depending on structural variations in hollow yarn, heat and moisture regulation behaviours of fabrics can be affected significantly. In this study, three types of hollow cotton yarn fabrics, produced by introducing polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) filament in the core, PVA staple fibres in the blend and PVA filament in doubling with cotton spun yarn, are studied. All three types of pre‐hollow yarns and reference yarns are made with a variation in spinning technique (single roving/double roving) to prepare eight single jersey knitted fabrics. The hollow/microporous structure of the yarn is created by dissolving the PVA fibres using hot washing of the fabrics. On overall evaluation of the fabric’s thermo‐physiological comfort properties, the doubled hollow yarn fabrics are found to be better than other fabrics. In general, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity, wicking and drying properties of all types of hollow yarn fabrics increase after repeated laundering, while air permeability, water vapour permeability and water absorbency of hollow yarn fabrics mostly decrease. In contrast with fabrics made from yarn produced through single roving technique, use of double roving technique only improves fabric water vapour permeability.     

Physical properties of ring,compact, and air vortex yarns made of PTT/wool/modal and wearing comfort of their knitted fabrics for high emotional garments

This study examined the physical properties of PTT/wool/modal yarns according to the yarn structure and the wearing comfort of their knitted fabrics for high emotional garments. For this purpose, the air-vortex, compact, and ring yarns and their knitted fabrics were prepared to analyze the wear comfort according to the yarn structure and the possibility of applications of the PTT/wool/modal blend fibers to air-vortex yarn. The wicking and drying rates of the air-vortex yarn knitted fabrics were superior to those of the ring and compact yarns fabrics, and the heat-keeping capability of the air-vortex yarn knitted fabric was higher than those of the ring and compact yarns fabrics due to the low thermal conductivity and maximum heat flow rate. In addition, the pilling of the air-vortex yarn knitted fabric was less than those of the ring and compact ones due to the air-vortex yarn structure with parallel fibers in the core part and the periodical and fasciated twists on the sheath part of the yarns. The tactile hand of the air-vortex yarn knitted fabric was harsher than those of the ring and compact yarns knitted fabrics because of the low extensibility and compressibility, and the high bending and shear rigidities.     

Comparison of fabric properties knitted by pin spacer compact and conventional compact yarns

This study examined the influence of pin spacer apparatus attachment on compact yarn quality parameters and physical properties of knitted fabrics manufactured using those 100% cotton compact yarns. Two groups of compact yarns were spun on regular compact yarn spinning frame with and without addition of pin spacer apparatus which is placed at the end of the drawing unit of regular compact yarn spinning frame. Totally eight yarns were spun at four different yarn number levels (Ne 24/1, Ne 30/1, Ne 36/1 and Ne 40/1) and two different spinning conditions (with and without pin spacer apparatus). Spun yarn types were then knitted on the industrial sized plain knitting machine. Knitted fabrics were used in the greige and dyed form to evaluate their bursting strength (kPa), dimensional change, abrasion related mass loss (%), pilling resistance, air permeability (mm/s) and colour difference. Test results were then statistically evaluated and influence of pin spacer attachment on yarn quality parameters and fabric properties was determined. In the frame of this experimental work, attachment of pin spacer apparatus improved compact yarn characteristics especially at yarn evenness, imperfection and hairiness values. In case of knitted fabric properties, it was found that pin spacer apparatus attached compact yarn utilization significantly improved air permeability properties of knitted fabrics.     

The Development of Criteria for the Prediction of Yarn Behaviour under Tension

The methods that have been used to define quality criteria for the prediction of yarn behaviour are critically reviewed. Work is described which leads to the definition of improved quality criteria for use in production environments and enables ring-spun yarns to be compared with open-end-spun yarns. An evaluation of the nature of the variation of results obtained from the measurement of strength and elongation confirms that the distributions of the results are adequately described by Gauss’s Law. A method for the visual representation of yarn quality in terms of the strength and elongation criteria for a given end-use is described.     

多重集聚纺纱结构成形机制及其针织物性能

为解决多毛羽传统环锭纱针织困难,而光洁的常规集聚纺纱线织物手感硬的技术难题,建立串联半开放式多重集聚纺纱方法,分析多重集聚纺纱机制和结构成形特征。理论分析结果表明,多重集聚纺纱线具有外紧而内柔的结构特征。基于理论解析,在相同工艺条件下,分别采用传统环锭、常规集聚和多重集聚纱线制成针织面料,对比分析了各针织物压缩回弹、透气、抗起毛起球、耐磨、染色等性能。测试结果表明：与传统环锭纱相比,多重集聚纱线针织物耐磨、透气性、抗起毛起球性改善;与常规集聚纱线相比,多重集聚纱线针织物悬垂性、压缩回弹性和染色性能明显提高。     

The effect of core-sheath proportion on the characteristics of fabrics produced with hollow yarns: part II comfort and mechanical properties

The study aims to investigate the effect of hollow yarn structure and the sheath-core proportion of hollow yarns on the permeability properties of the knitted fabrics. In order to accomplish this, core yarns in the yarn count of 59 tex were produced by using cotton, viscose, wool, and polyester fibers in the sheath and different ratios of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) in the core. After completion of yarn production on ring spinning frame, the yarns in the form of packages were used to produce plain knitted fabrics. Fabrics were then divided into two groups, one of which was washed during a time period in order to remove PVA from the core to obtain hollow yarn structure. Air and water permeability, and wicking properties of the knitted fabrics were measured before and after washing processes. Mechanical properties such as pilling and bursting strength of the fabrics were also examined. The results show that washing process and PVA proportion used to produce core spun yarns have a significant effect on the permeability and mechanical properties of the fabrics.     

Novel engineering approach to optimization of thermal comfort properties of hemp containing textiles

The aim of this research was to investigate the possibilities of producing comfort hemp containing textile fabrics by assembling a pure hemp yarn with other-fibre containing yarn. The plain knitted fabrics were produced from two-assembled hemp and three variants of cotton yarns which differed in twist level, all having the same linear density. The transport properties (air permeability, water vapour permeability and thermal resistance) of the hemp-based knitted fabrics were quantitatively analysed. The results obtained demonstrated that the introduction of cotton into hemp-based textiles reduces air and water vapour permeability with the downward trend in thermal resistance. The extent to which the transport properties varied among the hemp/cotton knitted fabrics was dependent on the twist intensity of the cotton yarns. Therefore, the yarn assembling technique is an effective way not only to combine different fibre properties but to take advantage of intrinsic properties of component yarns.     

A study on thermal properties of single-jersey knitted fabrics produced from ring and compact folded yarns

This paper presents a study on the thermal properties of single-jersey knitted fabrics manufactured using ring, compact and ring/compact folded yarns. The variations in thermal properties depending on the yarn twist and traveller weight of folded yarn single-jersey knits were discussed. It was found that the thermal resistance of knitted fabrics generally increases as the traveller weight decreases, and also water vapour permeability reduces as the traveller weight decreases. The water vapour permeability and air permeability of knitted fabrics increase as the twist increases. The thermal conductivity of knitted fabrics decreases as the twist increases. The air permeability and water vapour permeability values were higher for compact folded yarn fabrics as compared to those values of ring and ring/compact folded yarn fabrics. It is observed that yarn twist and traveller weight have affected different thermal properties of single-jersey folded yarn fabrics.     

Characterization of fabric properties knitted from multifilament polyester textured yarns with various number of filaments

The purpose of this study is to investigate the physical and mechanical properties of fabrics knitted from textured polyester multifilament yarns with various numbers of filaments in the yarn cross-section. In this regard, some of the characteristics of yarns and fabrics, knitted from the mentioned yarns, were measured and analysed. Analysis of results showed that increasing the number of filaments in the yarn cross-section leads to a decrease in yarn’s diameter and abrasion resistance. Moreover, examining the properties of the weft-knitted fabrics revealed that increasing the number of filaments causes a rising trend in the compressibility and bursting strength of fabric. On the contrary, the thickness, air permeability and abrasion resistance decreases due to a growth in the number of filaments. A decline in the strength and elongation of yarns and fabrics produced from them is also another result of increasing the number of filaments in the yarn cross section.     

Impacts of yarn twist and staple length on UV protection of plain-knitted cotton fabrics

Yarn construction is an important attribute in knitting and end use performance of knitwear. Holistically, yarn construction affects fabric thickness and weight, and thereby influences ultraviolet (UV) protection of fabrics. Although impact of yarn construction on UV protection of fabrics is apparent, there appears to be limited research on it. This paper studied the UV protection of plain-knitted fabrics made of three types of ring-spun cotton yarns varying in yarn twist level and staple length. The results show that these yarn properties affect UV protection of fabrics differently before and after laundering. The modified low-twisted yarn possesses a bulky feature which creates a porous fabric structure for more ultraviolet radiation (UVR) transmission. The extra-long staple yarn offers uniform fabric appearance for higher UVR reflection. However, the regularity of yarn also restricts the fabric shrinkage in laundering and thus improvement in UV protection by shrinkage is not as obvious as that provided by the conventional short-staple yarn.     

喷气涡流纺成纱工艺对色纺竹浆纤维针织物性能的影响

为研究喷气涡流色纺成纱工艺参数对色纺竹浆纤维针织物性能的影响,基于Box-Behnken设计方法,借助Minitab16软件,分析探讨了喷气涡流纺成纱工艺（喷嘴气压、纱线线密度、纺纱速度）对色纺竹浆纤维针织物断裂强力、透气性、悬垂性及耐磨性的影响。结果表明：纱线线密度减小,织物断裂强力下降,透气性和悬垂性先显著增加,而后略有下降;纺纱速度提高,织物断裂强力缓慢减小,透气性降低,悬垂性增加;喷嘴气压对针织物断裂强力、透气性、耐磨性均无显著影响,但当喷嘴气压增加时,织物悬垂性能先增加后降低;织物耐磨性主要受纺纱速度和纱线线密度的影响,且影响较为复杂。     

Investigation on moisture management properties of knitted fabrics produced from vortex-spun yarns

Abstract

The aim of this study was to investigate the liquid moisture management performance of knitted fabrics produced from vortex-spun yarns using different kinds of fibers and ratios. For this purpose, the vortex-spun yarns with 19.7 tex were obtained in different blend ratios in Murata Vortex Spinner by using different fibers. Then, these yarns were knitted in a circular knitting machine at two different stitch lengths and dyed considering fiber types. Moisture management properties of the produced fabrics were tested. The results revealed that moisture management properties of vortex knitted fabrics were much affected by fiber types in comparison with fabric tightness. Modal and nylon fibers have shown very positive results in terms of moisture management performance. The vortex-spun yarns having a low diameter, high shape values that are more rounded, and high density improved moisture management performance of the fabrics whereas the hairy yarns and higher fabric thickness reduced it.