The Air-permeability Measurement of Open Fabrics by Using Superimposed Fabric Layers

An account is given of an investigation of the dimensional properties of a series of plain weft-knitted fabrics produced from open-end-spun yarns. The results are compared with those for similar fabrics knitted from ring-spun yarns.

It is shown that fabrics knitted from the two types of yarn possess different properties and particularly that the amount of relaxation shrinkage observed in fabrics knitted from open-end-spun yarns is greater than that which occurs in fabrics knitted from ring-spun yarns. The aesthetic properties of fabrics made from open-end-spun yarns are inferior to those of fabrics made from ring-spun yarns, particularly with regard to a lack of stitch clarity and a somewhat harsher handle, although the latter effect is shown to be apparently unrelated to differences in the frictional properties of the two types of yarn.     

Impacts of yarn twist and staple length on UV protection of plain-knitted cotton fabrics

Yarn construction is an important attribute in knitting and end use performance of knitwear. Holistically, yarn construction affects fabric thickness and weight, and thereby influences ultraviolet (UV) protection of fabrics. Although impact of yarn construction on UV protection of fabrics is apparent, there appears to be limited research on it. This paper studied the UV protection of plain-knitted fabrics made of three types of ring-spun cotton yarns varying in yarn twist level and staple length. The results show that these yarn properties affect UV protection of fabrics differently before and after laundering. The modified low-twisted yarn possesses a bulky feature which creates a porous fabric structure for more ultraviolet radiation (UVR) transmission. The extra-long staple yarn offers uniform fabric appearance for higher UVR reflection. However, the regularity of yarn also restricts the fabric shrinkage in laundering and thus improvement in UV protection by shrinkage is not as obvious as that provided by the conventional short-staple yarn.     

用Dref 3摩擦纺多组分纬纱织造的织物的风格特征

研究分析了3种用Dref3摩擦纺多组分纬纱织造的平纹织物的风格特征。3种不同的纬纱是：芯皮均为粘纤;水溶性PVA作皮,粘胶无捻纱条作芯;PVA无捻纱条作芯,粘纤作皮。3种纱均在Dref3型摩擦纺机上按芯皮50／50比例纺成,经纱统一采用2合股纯棉纱线。将3种纱分别织成织物,然后用热水将PVA溶解去除。织物性能的测定结果：织物性能与组成织物的纱组分性能并不一致。无捻芯纱(溶掉PVA表皮)织物具有较高的拉伸强力、撕裂强力、折皱回复性和耐磨性;而空心纱(溶掉PVA作芯)织物具有丰满、蓬松的结构和良好的耐压缩性能。     

Effect of structural parameters of porous yarns and fabric on air permeability and moisture transfer of double-face woven fabrics

In this study, effect of fabric structural parameters of double-face woven fabrics including kind of porous yarn namely micro-porous yarn and hollow yarn, hole size of hollow yarn, percentage of these yarns in double-face woven fabric structure, and finally weft density on air permeability and moisture transfer of woven fabrics was evaluated. These yarns were produced by using water-soluble continuous polyvinyl alcohol filaments as core part for hollow yarns and as doubling yarn in micro-porous yarn. Results revealed the effect of kind of porous yarn, hole size of hollow yarn, and weft density on air permeability and moisture transfer of woven fabrics. The percentage of porous yarns as weft did not show obvious trend. Analysis of variance was used to study the effect of these variables on air permeability and moisture transfer of double-face woven fabrics statistically.     

Wicking and drying properties of conventional ring- and vortex-spun cotton yarns and fabrics

This study investigated the vertical wicking, water absorption and drying properties of vortex- and ring-spun combed cotton yarns and knitted fabrics comparatively. The yarns were produced in three different counts as 30 Ne, 40 Ne and 50 Ne. The experimental results revealed that vortex-spun yarns had lower yarn and fabric wicking and water absorption values than ring-spun yarns. In addition, it was observed that yarn type did not have a significant impact on the drying time of the fabrics.     

柔洁纺粘胶强捻纱及其织物性能

为更好地探究柔洁纺技术对粘胶强捻纱质量和其机织物服用性能的影响,对相同工艺参数下粘胶强捻柔洁纺纱线与环锭纺纱线的均匀度、毛羽、单纱强力、捻缩率和表观结构进行测试对比,同时分析了相同规格柔洁纺和环锭纺粘胶强捻纱织物的强伸性、顶破性能、撕破性能、透气透湿性、吸湿性、柔软性和抗起毛起球性能。结果表明:柔洁纺粘胶强捻纱的毛羽少,条干均匀,强力高,捻缩率低;相比环锭纺粘胶强捻纱织物,柔洁纺粘胶强捻纱机织物的强伸性、顶破性能、撕破性能、透气透湿性、柔软性和抗起毛起球性显著提高,但吸湿性有所降低;柔洁纺粘胶强捻纱具有柔顺、整洁、牢固等特点,其机织物的综合服用性能优于环锭纺。     

纯棉纱线合股数对织物性能的影响

为研究纯棉纱线合股数对织物力学性能和保形性的影响,采用线密度相同的单纱、双股线、3股线、4股线4种股线类型,以适当的经、纬密分别织制成平纹、斜纹、缎纹组织的织物。对织物的拉伸性能、撕裂强力、拉伸弹性、折皱回复性、悬垂性、弯曲性进行测试与分析。结果表明:3股线织物的断裂强力和撕裂强力较大,4股线织物的断裂伸长率较大,双股线织物的拉伸弹性回复率较大;平纹织物仅有双股线织物的折皱回复性优于单股线织物,斜纹和缎纹织物的折皱回复性随合股数的增加均变差;双股线平纹织物悬垂性相对较好,但均没有斜纹和缎纹织物的悬垂性好;单纱织物的弯曲性能比股线织物好。     

The effect of fabric strain during pressure steaming on fabric dimensional properties

It is shown that tension applied to fabric which is then permanently set by steaming under pressure for a short time has a significant effect on fabric dimensional properties. Increasing levels of stretch applied to fabric before pressure steaming resulted in decreases in fabric hygral expansion and relaxation shrinkage and also lowered fabric shrinkage that resulted from permanent setting. The setting conditions resembled those used in conventional pressure decatising, and it is suggested that in batch decatising, precise control of the length and width of fabric as it is batched up with the wrapper before steaming under pressure could enable predictable changes in fabric dimensions, relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion to be obtained.     

The functionality of woven fabric from air-jet yarn from the mixture of CO/PA and CO/PES fibres in the weft direction

The purpose of presented research is to find out the influence of air-jet yarn from the mixture of CO/PA (50/50) and CO/PES (67/33) fibres on functionality of woven fabric in the plain weave.The first part of the study is directed to the mechanical and physical properties of air-jet yarns (16.7 tex) from CO/PA and CO/PES fibres, while the second part of the study focuses on permeability properties of fabrics with air-jet yarns in the weft. The results show that air-jet yarn in the weft direction influences on the water vapor transmission and thermal conduction increase and air permeability decrease.Incorporation of air-jet yarn in the weft direction also improves breaking extension level.The results of presented research also show that the incorporation of air-jet yarn in the weft has statistical important influence on thermal conduction, water-vapor and air permeability changes.     

环锭纺纱和紧密纺纱罗纹针织物性能及其他物理性能

所有数据显示紧密纺纱织物的性能及其他物理参数优于精梳纱织物。相对于传统的环锭纺,紧密纺纱的毛羽指数低、强度高、条干均匀。紧密纺和环锭纺纱线结构上的差异明显地影响其织物性能、因此,尽管所有其他织物参数都相同,紧密纺纱生产的针织物相对于环锭纺纱针织物还是有着较短的线圈长度、较高的面密度、断裂强度、断裂伸长、顸破强力,以及更少的起毛起球。紧密纺纱线生产的针织物仅耐磨性稍差于环锭纺纱针织物．     

Effect of cotton fiber and yarn characteristics on color variation in woven fabric dyed with vat dyes

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of cotton fiber and yarn characteristics on the color variation of woven fabrics dyed with vat dyes. A fabric length of 31?m was woven so that each meter of the fabric comprised weft yarns of slightly different cotton fiber or yarn characteristics as compared to the other. The woven fabric was pretreated and dyed with vat dyes using industrial-scale, pad-dry-chemical-pad-steam process. After dyeing it was found that the fabric containing weft yarns made from cotton with higher reflectance (Rd) values gave poor color strength as compared to that of lower Rd values. Fabric comprising combed weft yarns showed better color depth (K/S) values as compared to that comprising carded weft yarns made from the same raw cotton. Furthermore, the fabric comprising finer- or lower-twist weft yarns gave higher color depth as compared to that with coarser or higher-twist weft yarns. It was concluded that slight variations in the cotton or yarn characteristics in the weft yarns could result in significant shade variations in the vat-dyed fabric.     

Effect of Yarn Type and Twist Factor on Air Permeability,Absorbency, and Hand Properties of Open-end and Ring-spun Yarn Fabrics

The paper investigates the effects of yarn type, i.e. open-end yarn (OE) and ring-spun yarn (RS) and the twist factors of the warp (W) and filling (F) of the OE yarns on the permeability to air and moisture and the hand properties of various test fabrics woven from both OE and RS yarns. A comparison is made of the effect of yarn types and various twist levels of warp and filling of the OE yarns on the air permeability, absorbency, coefficient of friction and flexural rigidity of fabrics woven from such yarns.

It is intended that future studies will explore a wider range of twist levels and different yarn types than those investigated on this initial exercise.     

Analysis of bending properties of worsted wool yarns and fabrics based on quasi-three-point bending

Abstract

The bending behavior of worsted wool yarns and fabrics plays a crucial role in handling and performance of end-use textiles. Hence, the fabric/yarn bending properties were studied based on a quasi-three-point bending model by means of the theoretical modeling and the corresponding measuring method. By means of the formula and the measured curves, the curve of bending rigidity and the curvature of a fabric or a yarn can be calculated so as to characterize the bending behavior more precisely than in the previous work. All the experiments on the fabric/yarn bending rigidity have been conducted for both the worsted wool fabrics and the corresponding yarns procured from the fabrics, with the same apparatus bending evaluation system of fabric and yarn, which was developed independently. The measured results of bending rigidity and curvature curve show good correlation with the bending moment and the curvature relationship of the theoretical modeling, and the comparisons of bending rigidity among KES-FB2 (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics-2 pure bending tester), FAST-2 (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing-2 bending meter), and the independently developed apparatus show that the three systems exhibist reasonably high correlations. It is confirmed that the new apparatus and the theoretical model are both viable and precious. Meanwhile, the theoretical relationship between the yarns and the fabrics has also been discussed, and the theoretical analysis of the bending behavior between the yarns and the fabrics is helpful in selecting a better theoretical model of the fabric-to-yarn bending rigidity ratio.     

两种喷气涡流纺黏胶纱及其针织物的性能对比

测试分析了黏胶纯纺与黏胶/涤纶混纺的喷气涡流纺针织纱线的性能,比较了两种纱线编织的双罗纹针织物的力学性能、KES风格性能、服用性能和染色牢度。试验结果显示:纯黏胶喷气涡流纺针织纱毛羽较少,两种纱线的拉伸性能相似;纯黏胶喷气涡流纺纱双罗纹针织物的抗起毛起球性能优良,织物较硬挺,而黏胶/涤纶(65/35)混纺喷气涡流纺纱双罗纹针织物柔软性好,尺寸稳定性佳,表面更为光滑平整,且两种织物的染色牢度都好。     

21—STT YARNS: TECHNOLOGICAL ASPECTS OF TWISTED SELF-TWIST YARNS

The STT system is one in which unidirectional twist is added to self-twist yarns to produce two-ply weaving yarns. The added twist required for the elimination of fabric patterning due to cyclic twist variation in the yarn has been determined and has been expressed in terms of the amount of self-twist in the yarn. Fabrics woven from STT yarns have been evaluated, and the dependence of fabric properties on initial self-twist and on added-twist levels has been investigated. This has resulted in recommendations for the spinning and twisting of STT yarns for use in making high-quality worsted fabrics.     

44—THE CONTRIBUTION OF THE BILATERAL STRUCTURE OF WOOL TO HYGRAL EXPANSION

Measurements are reported of the hygral expansion of yarns extracted from permanently set fabrics made from merino and Lincoln wools. For yarns having similar crimp, the hygral expansion of merino-wool yarn is much greater than that of Lincoln-wool yarn. The values in both cases agree with predictions based on single-fibre behaviour. It seems certain that this difference is caused by the presence of a consistent bilateral structure in merino wool, which is absent from Lincoln wool.     

毛/金属丝包芯纱交织花呢的设计与生产

介绍了毛/金属丝包芯纱交织织物在产品开发中的技术难点、工艺要点、产品特性及其织物性能测试.重点对产品在试制过程中出现的问题及采取的措施进行了阐述.产品充分发挥了金属丝包芯纱的特性,赋予了织物特殊的视觉效果与外观风格,不仅提高了产品档次,而且赋予了产品新的附加值,实物质量及服用性能良好.     

仪纶~(TM)纬平针织物的抗起毛起球性能

本文分别选用环锭纺、赛络纺、赛络紧密纺纺纱工艺,制备了同等纱支的仪纶~(TM)纯纺、仪纶~(TM)/棉(65/35)混纺针织纱线及其纬平针织物,对比测试了纱线性能及其织物抗起毛起球性能。实验结果显示:不同纺纱工艺的仪纶~(TM)针织纱线总体性能相似,赛络紧密纺纱线纱体结构更均匀;赛络纺织物的抗起毛起球性较环锭纺织物高0.5级,赛络紧密纺织物的抗起毛起球性明显好于环锭纺织物;混纺织物的抗起毛起球等级和起球粒数均有所改善。     

Mathematical model to predict vertical wicking behaviour. Part II: flow through woven fabric

The aim of the paper is to develop a mathematical model to predict vertical wicking behaviour of woven fabric. The first part of this series (Part I) has dealt with the mathematical model for predicting vertical wicking through yarn. In this part a model has been proposed to predict vertical wicking of the woven fabric, based on the developed yarn model. In order to model the flow through woven fabric along with the vertical flow through liquid carrying threads, the horizontal flow through transverse threads has also been taken into account. A simplified fabric geometrical concept (inclined tube geometry) and Peirce geometry for plain woven fabric have been used to define the fabric structure. Warp and weft linear density, fabric sett and yarn crimp have been considered in the fabric modelling. The theoretical wicking values of the yarn and fabric made from that yarn have been compared. Experimental verification of the model has been carried out using polyester and polypropylene fabrics. The model is found to predict the wicking height with time through the yarns and fabrics with reasonable accuracy.     

毛用新型复配浆JM的研制与性能研究

因单经单纬毛纱强力低,织造中易断头且毛羽多影响生产,故毛纱上浆成为研究热点.通过分析不同种浆料的含固量、粘度、失水率、退浆率、减少毛羽程度、断裂强度、断裂延伸度指标,指出这些单一浆料不能完全满足毛纱上浆的要求.选出3种浆料复配,经实验与分析,确定最优复配比,研制出新型毛用复配浆JM.