Thermo-physiological comfort properties of double-face knitted fabrics made from different types of polyester yarns and cotton yarn

Double-face knitted fabrics with hydrophobic inner and hydrophilic outer layers are characterised by their advantageous thermo-physiological comfort property that facilitates the transport of sweat from skin to outer fabric layer where it can be evaporated easily. In this study, for the production of double-face knitted fabrics, cotton yarn as hydrophilic yarn type and five different polyester filament yarns consisting of standard polyester, hollow polyester, micro polyester, textured polyester and textured micro polyester as hydrophobic yarn type were used. In order to determine the thermo-physiological comfort properties of the fabrics, air permeability, water vapour permeability, thermal conductivity, thermal resistance and overall moisture management capacity were measured. The results were comparatively analysed using statistical methods. The experimental results demonstrated that the polyester-type yarns and the combinations of them with the cotton yarn in fabric layers affected the thermo-physiological comfort properties significantly. The fabrics with polyester-type inner face and cotton outer face showed the best moisture transmission properties.     

两面效应经编牛仔面料结构设计及其风格评价

针对靛蓝纱色牢度不高、贴近皮肤穿着易沾色及吸湿后皮肤有潮湿闷热感问题,同时为改善纬编牛仔面料尺寸稳定性差、线圈易脱散等缺点,以靛蓝纱和本白棉纱、异形截面和圆形截面涤纶黑丝与氨纶为原料,在四梳经编机上通过结构设计开发两面效应经编牛仔面料,使贴近皮肤的一面显露涤纶,另外一面显露棉纱。通过扫描电子显微镜对不同截面的涤纶表面进行表征,并对其拉伸性能进行比较;研究了面料的顶破性能、拉伸弹性回复性、吸湿速干性能,并利用PhabrOmeter 织物风格仪对风格特征进行评价。结果表明：靛蓝纱的强力高于本白棉纱,而毛羽指数降低了17.1%;异形截面涤纶显著提高了经编牛仔织物的滴水扩散速率、芯吸高度、手感和折痕回复性。     

Effect of structural parameters of porous yarns and fabric on air permeability and moisture transfer of double-face woven fabrics

In this study, effect of fabric structural parameters of double-face woven fabrics including kind of porous yarn namely micro-porous yarn and hollow yarn, hole size of hollow yarn, percentage of these yarns in double-face woven fabric structure, and finally weft density on air permeability and moisture transfer of woven fabrics was evaluated. These yarns were produced by using water-soluble continuous polyvinyl alcohol filaments as core part for hollow yarns and as doubling yarn in micro-porous yarn. Results revealed the effect of kind of porous yarn, hole size of hollow yarn, and weft density on air permeability and moisture transfer of woven fabrics. The percentage of porous yarns as weft did not show obvious trend. Analysis of variance was used to study the effect of these variables on air permeability and moisture transfer of double-face woven fabrics statistically.     

Impact of structural variations in hollow yarn on heat and moisture transport properties of fabrics

The use of hollow/microporous yarns plays an important role in enhancing the thermo‐physiological comfort properties of fabrics. Depending on structural variations in hollow yarn, heat and moisture regulation behaviours of fabrics can be affected significantly. In this study, three types of hollow cotton yarn fabrics, produced by introducing polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) filament in the core, PVA staple fibres in the blend and PVA filament in doubling with cotton spun yarn, are studied. All three types of pre‐hollow yarns and reference yarns are made with a variation in spinning technique (single roving/double roving) to prepare eight single jersey knitted fabrics. The hollow/microporous structure of the yarn is created by dissolving the PVA fibres using hot washing of the fabrics. On overall evaluation of the fabric’s thermo‐physiological comfort properties, the doubled hollow yarn fabrics are found to be better than other fabrics. In general, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity, wicking and drying properties of all types of hollow yarn fabrics increase after repeated laundering, while air permeability, water vapour permeability and water absorbency of hollow yarn fabrics mostly decrease. In contrast with fabrics made from yarn produced through single roving technique, use of double roving technique only improves fabric water vapour permeability.     

PTT针织面料的开发与研究

对新开发的PTT弹力添纱针织面料的原料选用、编织和后整理进行了详细探讨,并对该面料的5个湿舒适性指标透湿率、导湿性、透气率、干燥率和保水率与已开发的棉/涤针织面料和Tactel/Lycra针织面料进行了比较,证明新开发的面料具有良好的湿舒适性,是制作运动服的理想面料。     

Thermo-physiological comfort characteristics of polyester air-jet-textured and cotton-yarn fabrics

Air-jet-textured polyester yarns were produced using two feed yarns differing in filament fineness and number of filaments. By varying the overfed rates of feed yarns and changing their positions in core and effect, five textured yarns were produced. Woven fabrics were prepared using these textured yarns as weft and cotton yarns in warp. To study the effect of air-jet-texturing parameters on the thermo-physiological comfort characteristics of fabric, the woven fabrics were tested for thickness, thermal properties, transverse wicking and air permeability. It is observed that thermal conductivity and resistance of fabrics are not influenced by the texturing parameters/textured yarn structure. These properties are mainly dependent on the entrapped air present in fabrics. Thermal absorptivity is a transient phenomenon of heat flow reflecting that the ‘warm-cool feeling’ effect of fabrics depends on smoothness/roughness of fabric surface. Fabrics with smooth surfaces have higher thermal absorptivity values as they provide a large area of contact with human skin. The roughness of fabrics depends on the number of surface loops and filament fineness. Transverse wicking of fabrics depends on the size, continuity and alignment of the capillaries present in the core of textured yarns.     

Investigating the effect of material and weave design on comfort properties of bilayer-woven fabrics

The paper focuses on the development of a bilayer-woven fabric and investigating the effect of weave design and material type on its comfort properties. Face layer was plain woven with cotton yarn, while two different weave designs (2/2 and 3/1 twill) and four different materials (cotton, polyester, micropolyester and nylon) were used for the back layer. The comfort properties of fabric, including air permeability (AP), thermal resistance, water vapour resistance and overall moisture management capacity, were determined. It was found that both the layers of fabric as a whole contribute to the comfort properties of bilayer fabric. The highest AP was exhibited by fabrics having both layers of cotton, while 3/1 twill samples have a lower value of thermal resistance as compared to the 2/2 twill samples. The results further showed that micro polyester woven in 3/1 twill weave exhibits better comfort properties.     

Analysis of mechanical and dimensional properties of the denim fabrics produced with double-core and core-spun weft yarns with different weft densities

Elastic structures are preferred for improving the elasticity and recovery properties of denim fabrics. With the intention of improving comfort during body movements in denim jeans, 10–35% elasticity is required. In this study, the effect of the composition of double-core (dual-core) and core-spun weft yarns and weft density on the mechanical properties of denim fabrics was investigated. For this purpose, different core materials were used in the production of elastic yarns. The sheath material was cotton for all yarn types. Yarn samples were spun with the same yarn count and twist coefficient. 100% cotton Ne 8/1 Ring slub warp yarns were used as warp yarn while double-core and core-spun yarns were used as weft yarns in weaving. The weaving process was performed with three different weft density values (16, 22, and 28 weft /cm) and the other production parameters were kept constant. Twill 3/1 woven fabrics were treated according to standard denim finishing procedures. After domestic washing processes, mechanical properties of the samples were tested and statistically evaluated.     

基于灰聚类方法的磁性纤维混纺织物湿舒适性评估

 为了研究磁性纤维织物中纱线原料和组织结构对织物湿舒适性的影响,扩展功能纤维的应用领域,采用磁性纤维/竹浆/棉混纺比为67/23/10的磁性纤维混纺纱与棉、竹/棉混纺纱进行交织,设计十种不同组织结构的织物,测试织物的透气性、透湿性和导湿性。利用灰色理论体系的灰聚类分析方法对数据结果进行评估,选取湿舒适性最优的织物原料与结构设计方案。结果表明：磁纤维混纺纱与竹纤维纱线分别为经、纬纱的平纹织物夏季湿舒适性最好;磁纤维混纺纱与竹纤维纱线分别为经、纬纱的接结双层织物冬季湿舒适性最好。     

Studies on cotton-acrylic bulked yarns produced from different spinning technologies. Part II: fabric characteristics

The present work is concerned with the study of the characteristics of plain woven fabric produced with cotton-acrylic high-bulk yarns from different spinning technologies. The effects of different factors, namely spinning technologies (ring, rotor and DREF-II, i.e. Group A fabrics), position of shrinkable acrylic feed sliver in DREF-II friction spinning system (Group B fabrics) and proportion of shrinkable acrylic core fibre in core-sheath type DREF-III friction spun yarns (Group C fabrics) on various properties of cotton-acrylic blended bulked yarn fabrics have been reported. The influence of these three variables on the mechanical, handle and comfort properties of fabrics have been studied. The properties of fabrics made of bulked yarns from different spinning technologies are found to be different from the normal 100% cotton yarn fabrics in all respect. Even though the bulked yarns were used only in weft direction, the fabrics with modified yarn structures show appreciable improvement in thermal resistance, moisture vapour transmission, wicking and air permeability. The bending rigidity of the fabrics in weft direction also reduced with improvement in crease recovery in weft direction.     

十字形涤纶机织物的吸湿排汗性能

为了解十字形涤纶机织物吸湿排汗性能,利用不同结构的十字形涤纶混纺纱线,设计开发了平纹和斜纹组织的交织物,并对其吸湿排汗性能如吸湿性、透气性、透湿性、吸水性及干燥性等进行测试,分析了纤维含量及织物结构对吸湿排汗性能的影响。测试结果表明,纤维含量及织物结构对十字形涤纶机织物的吸湿排汗性能都有一定的影响。     

聚酯长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能

为研究聚酯(PET)长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能,利用PET长丝与纯棉纱开发了3种线密度为9.8 tex的纱线,并以二上二下斜纹组织织造了4种织物。对织物进行了折皱回复性、免烫性、尺寸稳定性、悬垂性等保形性能,强伸性、拉伸弹性、顶破性等抗变形性测试,以及手感风格、透湿性、透气性等服用性能测试。对比分析了纯棉纱织物与复合纱织物的保形性与服用性能。结果表明:PET长丝/棉复合纱可改善纯棉织物的折皱回复性、悬垂性,提高免烫等级,同时又不影响织物的服用性能;包芯纱织物比包缠纱织物有更好的保形性,更高的免烫等级,是免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。     

不同混纺比甲壳素纤维/长绒棉混纺织物性能测试与分析

 用自纺的五种不同混纺比的19.5tex甲壳素/棉混纺纱织成同规格的织物,测定混纺织物的强伸度、pH值、刚柔性、透湿性、透气性、导湿性等,分析混纺比对混纺织物性能的影响。实验结果表明, 10/90甲/棉混纺织物的经纬向强力最大,芯吸性导湿性最好,20/80甲/棉混纺织物的透湿性最好,50/50甲/棉混纺织物的抗弯刚度最大,透气性最好。混纺织物的抗弯刚度和纬向强力及导湿性与混纺比显著相关。从穿着舒适性和纱线织物性能等几方面综合考虑, 20/80的甲/棉混纺织物较实用,而30/70的甲/棉混纺比例各方面性能较差。     

Elastic Recovery and Performance of Denim Fabric Prepared by Cotton/Lycra Core Spun Yarns

ABSTRACT

Elastic performance coefficient (EPC) and recovery behavior of denim fabrics prepared with cotton/lycra core spun stretch yarns have been presented in this article. The denim fabrics are woven as broken twill weaves in an air-jet weaving machine by the insertion of core spun yarns (lycra filament in core, cotton fiber on sheath) as weft and using 100% cotton yarns as warp. The effect of linear density and stretch percentage of the core spun weft yarns on tensile and recovery behavior of denim fabric have been investigated by employing full factorial design of experiments. It has been observed that the tensile strength and EPC of fabric increase with decrease in linear density and stretch percentage of the core spun stretch yarn. The immediate elastic recovery and delayed elastic recovery increase with decrease in linear density and stretch percentage of the yarns.     

Total porosity,theoretical analysis,and prediction of the air permeability of woven fabrics

Air permeability is one of the most important properties of textile materials that ensure their comfort. For many materials for technical applications (filters, sails, vacuum cleaners, parachutes, etc.), this is one of the main properties that determine their quality. The air permeability of woven textile fabrics depends on many parameters of fabric. Thus, the determination of air permeability of woven fabric is highly complex and difficult. In this study, we attempted to establish a theoretical model for the porosity and predicted the air permeability of woven fabrics. A theoretical model was created to predict the total porosity and the air permeability of a fabric structure depending on the geometrical parameters such as pore size, warp density, weft density, fabric thickness, number of yarn, diameter of yarn, and fiber density. For the purpose, a theoretical model of porous systems on D’Arcy’s law was used, and the validity of the model was confirmed by experimental results using 100% cotton and 97/3 cotton/lycra woven fabrics. Since the amount of air passing through both the pores between yarns and the interstices in the fibers constituting the yarn structure was calculated, theoretical values of air permeability were obtained very close to the experimental values.     

中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维/棉混纺纬平针织物的服用性能

为研究中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量对其纬平针织物服用性能的影响,设计了5种不同混纺比中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维/棉纤维,采用环锭纺与赛络纺纺制了10组18.3 tex混纺纱,并织成相同规格的纬平针织物。测试并分析织物的顶破、起毛起球、透气、透湿及保暖性能。基于回归分析,获得了中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量与织物各性能指标的关系,并建立了综合性能评价函数对织物的服用性能进行评价。结果表明:随着中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量的增加,混纺纬平针织物的顶破强力、透气、透湿、保暖性增加,抗起毛起球性能变差,赛络纱织物的综合性能优于环锭纱织物;中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维/棉混纺织物相比于普通涤/棉织物,透气性能可提高66%,透湿性能提高10%,保暖性能提高2.6倍。     

Role of filament cross-section in properties of PET multifilament yarn and fabric. Part I: Effect of fibre cross-sectional shape on transmission behaviour of fabrics

The transmission property of a fabric is a key factor that affects clothing’s comfort and decides the functional potential of clothing. The dependence of filament cross-section with varying shape factor (SF) on air, moisture and thermal transmission behaviour of fabric is determined in case of polyester multifilament woven fabrics. The linear density of each filament is kept identical for all 12 cross-section shape filaments. The SF of filament cross-section is an important factor which remained the prime factor to influence the transmission behaviour of fabric samples directly in many cases. Other indirect factors that influence the transmission behaviour of fabrics when the SF is identical are yarn structure, inter-fibre and inter-yarn space. Twelve different novel cross-sectional shapes are considered to make the multifilament woven polyester fabrics. The fabrics made from multifilament yarns having different SFs show that relative moisture vapour permeability and air permeability decrease with the rise in SF. Wickability increases with the rise in the SF of a filament cross-section. Multilobal, hexalobal and plus shapes were made a part of novel cross-sectional shapes in order to develop fabrics of higher comfort index.     

纬编间隔床品面料的结构及性能分析

采用3.3 tex涤纶单丝为间隔纱,8.3 tex涤纶和2.2 tex氨纶交织为表层,制备4种不同密度、厚度及间隔纱连接方式的纬编间隔织物。分析织物组织结构和编织工艺,并测试力学性能和热湿舒适性能,分析面料厚度、密度与各项性能关系,用数学模糊分析法对面料进行综合分析。结果表明,间隔纱连接方式对面料拉伸断裂性和顶破性有一定影响,对透气透湿性无明显影响;厚度、密度较小且间隔纱交叉连接的织物综合性能最好;选择床垫面料时考虑厚度、密度及间隔纱连接方式对面料性能影响。     

Studies on moisture transmission properties of PV-blended fabrics

Moisture transmission properties are most important for fabric comfort. We have studied the moisture transmission properties of the plain-woven fabric produced with polyester–viscose-(PV) blended yarns. PV-blended yarns of varying blend proportion, yarn count and twist levels have been used for fabric manufacture. A three-variable Box and Behnken factorial design technique has been used to study the interaction effects of the above variables on the aforesaid characteristics of fabrics. The interactive effect of these three variables on the air permeability, water vapour permeability, in-plane wicking and vertical wicking of PV-blended fabrics has been studied and the response surface equations for all the properties have been derived; also, the design variables have been optimized for all the moisture transmission-related properties. Most of the moisture transmission characteristics were found to be affected significantly by blend proportion, count and twist levels at 95% level of significance with the present variables.     

Y形涤纶纤维机织物的开发与性能分析

为了研究Y形涤纶纤维机织物的性能,利用Y形涤纶纤维的纯纺纱以及与棉纤维的混纺纱线,设计开发了16种平纹和斜纹组织织物,对其吸湿排汗性能如吸湿性、透湿性、 吸水性及快干性进行了测试与分析。结果表明：较稀疏、轻薄的混纺织物比纯纺织物透湿性好;而较紧密、厚实的纯纺织物比混纺织物透湿性好；随着织物组织结构紧密度和厚度的增加,Y形涤纶纤维织物的干燥速度下降。