女装肩部结构变化与袖窿夹角的相关性

为了给女装肩部结构设计提供理论参考,探究女装肩部结构与袖窿结构的关系并建立二者的理论研究模型,运用立体裁剪的方法,利用不同厚度的垫肩改变肩斜度从而改变肩部结构,通过三维到二维的转换,在衣片平面展开图上对肩斜度、袖窿夹角进行精确测量,并对数据相关性进行分析,通过制作成衣,对比用传统比例制图法与用实验结果制图的成衣合体度。结果表明:垫肩厚度与肩斜度之间存在线性相关关系;女装肩部结构变化影响袖窿夹角大小,且肩斜度与袖窿夹角大小呈线性相关关系;运用线性回归关系辅助制图进行女装结构设计,其合体性优于单一的比例制图法。

Correlation between change of shoulders' structure and armhole angle in lady's wear

In order to provide theoretical basis for the design of shoulder structure, explore the relationship between the shoulder structure and the armhole structure in lady's wear and establish a theoretical research model a three-dimensional cutting method was adopted, and different thickness of shoulder pads were adopted to change the shoulder slope to thereby change the shoulders' structure. By the three-dimensional to two-dimensional transformation, the shoulder slope and the angle of the armhole were accurately measured on the flat developing drawings of the garment pieces, and the data correlation was analyzed. By making ready-to-wear garments, the conventional proportional method was compared with the method using the experimental results. It is concluded that a linear correlation exists between the shoulder pad thickness and the shoulder slope; the change of the shoulders' structure in lady's wear affects the angle of the armhole, and the shoulder slope is linearly related to the angle of the armhole. The results showed that by adopting the linear correlation into the design of structure of lady's wear, the ready-to-wear garments are fitter than those by the conventional proportional method.