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仿蕾丝浮凸花纹效果提花面料的设计研究
引用本文:肖元元,叶莹洁,周赳. 仿蕾丝浮凸花纹效果提花面料的设计研究[J]. 丝绸, 2020, 57(1): 116-120
作者姓名:肖元元  叶莹洁  周赳
作者单位:浙江理工大学浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,杭州310018;浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州310018
基金项目:国家社会科学基金项目(15BH115);浙江文化研究工程项目(17WH20017-1Z);文化部重点实验室资助项目(2017016)
摘    要:为使提花面料具有仿蕾丝浮凸花纹效果,提取蕾丝的视觉风格特征要素(色彩、图案、肌理)作为设计元素,通过合理的组织结构设计和纱线配置来实现提花面料的创新设计。面料设计流程包括蕾丝图案设计和组织结构设计,蕾丝图案设计采用分层组合的图案设计方法;高花结构设计采用纬二重和双层结构相结合的组织结构。通过设计实践织出的仿蕾丝浮凸花纹效果提花面料的表面花纹不仅具有立体浮凸的效果,同时具有影光过渡的色彩效果。文章提出的仿蕾丝浮凸花纹效果提花面料的设计方法,不仅丰富了提花面料的外观效果,也为提花面料的创新设计提供了新的思路。

关 键 词:仿蕾丝  浮凸花纹效果  高花结构设计  蕾丝风格特征  蕾丝图案设计

Design and research of jacquard fabric with imitated lace embossed pattern effect
XIAO Yuanyuan,YE Yingjie,ZHOU Jiu. Design and research of jacquard fabric with imitated lace embossed pattern effect[J]. Silk Monthly, 2020, 57(1): 116-120
Authors:XIAO Yuanyuan  YE Yingjie  ZHOU Jiu
Affiliation:(Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk),Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)
Abstract:In order to make the jacquard fabric own the imitated lace embossed pattern effect,the characteristic elements of visual style of lace(including color,pattern and texture)were extracted as the design elements,and the innovative design of jacquard fabric was achieved by the rational weave structure design and selection of yarns.The fabric design process includes lace pattern design and weave structure design.For the lace pattern design,layered-combination pattern design method was used;for the high-pattern structure design,the combination of weft-backed and double-layer structure was applied.The surface pattern of jacquard fabric with imitated lace embossed pattern effect gained by design practice not just has the embossed pattern effect,but also owns the color shading effect.The design method of jacquard fabric with imitated lace embossed pattern effect not only enriches the appearance effect of jacquard fabric,but also provides a new thought for the creative design of jacquard fabric.
Keywords:lace imitation  embossed pattern effect  high-pattern structure design  lace style features  lace pattern design
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