海滩修复工程影响下的低能海岸波浪能量时空分布特征研究

本研究基于第三代海浪模式SWAN(Simulating Wave Nearshore),对茅尾海及其邻近海域波浪场进行了为期la的数值模拟,利用实测资料验证了该模型的可靠性.根据模型计算结果分析了茅尾海海域波浪要素的时空分布特征,在此基础上进一步探讨了波浪能量的输入耗散过程以及海滩修复对波浪能量空间分布的影响.研究发现...

SPATIAL AND TEMPORAL DISTRIBUTION OF WAVE ENERGY ON LOW ENERGY COASTS UNDER THE EFFECT OF BEACH RESTORATION PROJECT

Using the third-generation wave model SWAN(Simulating Wave Nearshore), the wave field of Maowei Sea, Qinzhou, Guangxi, South China and its adjacent sea areas was numerically simulated for one year, and the reliability of the model was verified using measured data. The temporal and spatial distribution characteristics of wave elements in the Maowei Sea area were analyzed. The input and dissipation process of wave energy and the effect of beach restoration on the spatial distribution of wave energy were discussed. Results show that annual average significant wave height in the Maowei Sea is unevenly distributed. The annual average significant wave height outside the bay is 0.2-0.4 m, and only 0.05-0.15 m in the bay, displaying obvious seasonal changes. The wave height in summer is greater than that in winter. The summer wave energy input and dissipation terms in the study area are greater than those in winter. The main wave energy dissipation process throughout the year is bottom friction dissipation, and the remaining dissipation terms are relatively small. At the same time, the spatial distribution of wave energy dissipation is uneven with dense and sparse areas. The wave energy distribution of the beach front edge changed significantly before and after the beach restoration. After the beach restoration, wave height on the horizontal axis distribution of the beach front edge increased by an average of 23.7% and the wave energy by 63.0%. The increased percentage of wave height on the vertical axis decreased with increasing offshore distance. The maximum increased percentage of wave height was 13.9%, and the maximum wave energy increased by 43.8%. In addition, it is believed that reasonable beach restoration works can effectively increase the wave energy acting on the beach surface, thereby enhancing the dynamic conditions of the restored beach, reducing the risk of beach mudification, and improving the beach quality. This research can provide a scientific basis for restoration works in a low-energy coast.