西夏服饰考

本文采用文献资料为主,图像与实物为辅的方法,从历史渊源、法律制度、形制类别、发展演变等角度,对西夏的发式、首服、衣服、足衣、饰物进行了深入探讨。本文认为,西夏服饰承袭古代党项先民服饰传统,取法中原汉族的服饰文化,同时接纳吐蕃、回鹘、契丹、女真等少数民族服饰风俗。西夏王国独特的风貌可作为个案,反映出11世纪的中国北方少数民族政权,如何在多重因素的影响下,建构具有民族特色的服饰制度和文化。

Costumes in the West Xia Dynasty

This paper adresses the history coatums of Tangut from the perspective of its orignin, related rules and the evolution of its shaps. Based on the amount of historical documents, images and excavated materials,the paper examines historical shape-changing on hairstyles, hats, clothes, trousers, skirts, shoes, and decorations. The author argues that the forming of Tangut costume were influenced by different sources which included dress culture of the Tang dynasty and the Song dynasty, the ethnic clothing traditions of ancient Tangut, and the ethnic costume of Tibetan, Uighur, Khitan, Jurchen, and other minority. As a case of 11th century in northern China, the unique styles of the Tangut costume reflect how a minority regime to build and develop its national characteristics of costume culture under the intercation of multiple factors.