全成形毛衫肩袖成形工艺

为丰富全成形羊毛衫肩袖造型，提高编织效率，采用全成形电脑横机及DS-ONE APPEX 3 设计系统，对全成形毛衫肩袖成形方式进行研究。将四针床全成形毛衫肩袖部位按照其结构分为 6 种，从重视效率、重视结构 2 种编织方式分别探讨 6 种肩袖的编织工艺。研究认为：比率编织法适用于平肩式与落肩式，可编织出不同高度的袖山；扭转纱环有助于落肩式的前肩向后针床翻转，使接肩动作更稳定；引返工艺适用于马鞍肩和斜肩的细节部位编织；均收工艺是降落伞型毛衫肩袖部位的主要编织方式；多织工艺可用来平衡衣身和袖山结构上的前后高低差，维持筒状编织结构稳定。

Forming process of shoulder and sleeves of whole garment

In order to shapes of shoulder and sleeves of whole garment and improve efficiency of knitting, the forming method of shoulder and sleeves of whole garment was researched rsing flly formed computerized ft knitting machine with DS-ONE APPEX 3 design system. According to the structure of shoulder and sleeves of whole garment made by four-bed computerized forming method, the knitting methods can be classified into 6 types. The efficiency and structure improvement of these 6 kinds of knitting methods were emphatically discussed. Results show that ratio weaving is applicable to setting in style with same shoulder and setting in style without shoulder drop on front.Twisted yarn ring is conductive to the rolling-over of front sholder to back bed in setting in style without shoulder drop on front.Returning knit is suitable for the detail knitting of epaulet and raglan.Uniformity narrowing is the main knitting method of parachute shaped sleeves.Extra knitting can be used for the balance of tubular knitting of shoulder and sleeves.