黄麻混织针织物的设计与开发

本研究针对黄麻纱线粗硬、毛羽较多，弹性低等特点，对纱线毛羽、细度及强度进行测试并选择适合的棉及涤纶纱线进行混合。将黄麻与棉及涤纶纱线经过合股上蜡处理后，在针织横机上设计并编织罗纹、移圈、圆筒等不同组织和结构的黄麻混织织物及产品。通过对黄麻混织织物的耐磨性、透气性、抗起毛起球等性能进行测试与分析，结果表明麻涤1罗纹织物耐磨性、耐起毛起球性最好，而麻棉4为单面圆筒织物线圈密度最小，透气性能最优；麻棉2由于具有移圈及凹凸效果，透气性能次之，耐磨性稍差。所织织物适合制作具有田园风格的家居类装饰物，从而开发黄麻纤维更广泛的应用领域。

Design and development of jute mixed knitted fabrics

Aiming at its rough surface, more hairness and low elasticity, jute yarn was mixed with cotton and polyester to make the knitting process smooth. The yarn hairness, fineness and strength were tested. The suitable yarns were chosen to mix with jute yarn according to testing results. The mixed yarns were knit fabrics with different structures such as rib, loop transferring, tubular etc. on flat knitting machine after waxing process. The abrasion resistance, breathability and pilling resistance of the knitted fabrics were tested. The results indicated that the properties of abrasion and pilling resistance of jute mixed polyester fabric with 1 X 1 rib structure was the best. The breathability property of jute/cotton 4 fabrics with tubular structure was the best due to the lowest stitch density. The properties of jute/cotton No.2 fabric were a bit weak among all testing fabrics. The fabrics with jute plied other yarns were quite suitable for making natural home decorations in order to enlarge its application fields.