Vertical variations of wave-induced radiation stress tensor

INTRODUcrIONThe concept of radiation stress was deve1oPed by tonguet--Higgins and Stewart (1964 ),who intreduced the definition of radiation stress as the excess mornentum due to the presence ofwaves, on the basis of time-averaged laws of Newtonian fluid mechanics and the assmption ofa unifOrm velocity distribution over depth. Subequently, the theory has been applied success-fully in the investigation of phenomena such as wave set-up and set--down (Bowen et al.,l968), longshore currents …     

Low-frequency damping of a moored semisubmersible obtained from simulated extinction tests and mean wave drift forces

Low-frequency damping of a moored semisubmersible drilling platform was obtained from numerical extinction tests simulated in still water and in regular waves and from mean wave drift forces calculated at zero forward speed. The influence of drag forces was represented by the modified Morison equation. The platform as used for the 18th ITTC Comparative Mooring Study was analyzed in irregular beam waves. The computed time series of sway as well as the corresponding sway response spectrum compared favourably with model test measurements, demonstrating that this procedure to determine low-frequency damping can be effective.     

黄河三角洲桩西101站潮沟地貌形态及其水动力学研究

在潮沟下游，横跨且生趣与潮沟的横断面设了５个观测站，进行了２４ｈ的水动力测量。结果表明，涨落潮流速流向不对称，在潮沟内，涨落潮流流速差别很大，涨潮流流速最大为９ｃｍ／２，而落潮流流速最大可达３８ｃｍ／ｓ。据推测，潮沟内之所以落潮流流速明显大于涨潮流流速，可能是由于潮沟与岸线斜交有关。     

Gravity torques for surface waves

The effects of the gravity torques acting on the angular momentum of surface gravity waves are calculated theoretically. For short crested waves the gravity torque is caused by the force of gravity on the orbiting fluid particles acting down the slopes of the crests and troughs and in the direction parallel to the crests and troughs. The gravity torque tries to rotate the angular momentum vectors, and thus the waves themselves, counterclockwise in the horizontal plane, as viewed from above, in both hemispheres. The amount of rotation per unit time is computed to be significant assuming reasonable values for the along-crest and trough slopes for waves in a storm area. The gravity torque has a frequency which is double the frequency of the waves. For long crested waves the gravity torque acts in the vertical plane of the orbit and tries to decelerate the particles when they rise and accelerate them when they fall. By disrupting the horizontal cyclostrophic balance of forces on the fluid particles (centrifugal force versus pressure force) the gravity torque accounts qualitatively for the three characteristics of breaking waves: that they break at the surface, that they break at the crest, and that the crest breaks in the direction of wave propagation.     

Subunit composition and chromophore content of R-phycocyanin and allophycocyanin from Porphyra haitanensis

ＳｕｂｕｎｉｔｃｏｍｐｏｓｉｔｉｏｎａｎｄｃｈｒｏｍｏｐｈｏｒｅｃｏｎｔｅｎｔｏｆＲ－ｐｈｙｃｏｃｙａｎｉｎａｎｄａｌｌｏｐｈｙｃｏｃｙａｎｉｎｆｒｏｍＰｏｒｐｈｙｒａｈａｉｔａｎｅｎｓｉｓ￥ＧａｏＨｏｎｇｆｅｎｇ；ＣａｏＷｅｎｄａａｎｄＪｉＭｉｎｇ...     

南黄海陆架沉积学研究

黄海中部、济州岛西南,存在厚层的泥质沉积,它们分别与上述地区的冷涡活动区相对应。在两个泥质沉积区之间又出现连接它们的通道,形成别有特征的“冷涡-通道”沉积体系。经分析发现,这个沉积体系,完全受控于黄海暖流、冷涡及其相关的环流体系。此外,在黄海西南部及东海北部海底发现大面积砂岩及其砾石,揭示了黄、东海陆架沉积物的新源地。     

中国南极中山锚地勘测

本文介绍了南极中山锚地的选择条件,勘测实施过程及水文、气象特点,并对测量区域作了分析研究与评价,科学地确定了适合科考船抛锚的锚地,致使“雪龙”船首次在中山锚地抛锚试抛成功,结束了中山站附近海域无锚地的历史。     

A comparison of several wave spectra for the random wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater

A comparison of the diffraction of multidirectional random waves using several selected wave spectrum models is presented in this paper. Six wave spectrum models, Bretschneider, Pierson–Moskowitz, ISSC, ITTC, Mitsuyasu, and JONSWAP spectrum, are considered. A discrete form for each of the given spectrum models is used to specify the incident wave conditions. Analytical solutions based on both the Fresnel integrals and polynomial approximations of the Fresnel integrals and numerical solutions of a boundary integral approach have been used to obtain the two-dimensional wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater at uniform water depth. The diffraction of random waves is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. The results of predicted random wave diffraction for each of the given spectrum models are compared with those of the published physical model presented by Briggs et al. [1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering—ASCE 121(1), 23–35]. Reasonable agreement is obtained in all cases. The effect of the directional spreading function is also examined from the results of the random wave diffraction. Based on these comparisons, the present model for the analysis of various wave spectra is found to be an accurate and efficient tool for predicting the random wave field around a semi-infinite breakwater or inside a harbor of arbitrary geometry in practical applications.     

汕头近岸区的台风波浪 (二)后报台风波浪及其基本特征

本文采用《受陆岸影响浅水区台风风浪的推算方案》后报影响汕头近岸区的台风风浪，并以此与Ｔｈｏｍｐｓｏｎ关于波型的判据和合田良实的不同波型能量集中度的规定相结合，计算台风混合浪，经与现场实测资料相比较，效果良好；依４４年台风浪的后报结果，可以得到各场台风过程的波高，波能和主波向的变化以及后报台风较大浪时能随方向的分布     

受陆岸影响浅水区台风风浪的计算方案

在我国港口工程技术规范的波浪成长理论基础上，考虑到台风波浪的基本特点、等效水深的概念、浅水区波浪的折射、不规则波的能量分布特性、受陆岸和岛屿影响角度范围内的有效能量风区长度等因素，提出了受陆岸、岛屿影响浅水区（包括海湾区）台风风浪的计算方案。本方案只需台风中心位置、中心气压和计算点于各方位的风区长度（受陆岸影响部分）等资料，便可快速地得到计算点的波浪要素。经实测资料验证，效果良好。