Resonant flow of a fluid past a concave topography

I.IntroductionThestudyofaflowoffluidpastatopographicbottomisatopicoftheoreticalandpracticalsignificance.Inrecentyears,theforcedKorteweg-deVriesequation(orocdVequation)hasbeenregardedasatraditionalmodeloftheprobleml"2].Sometimestheeffectofsurfacetensioncou…     

A new method for the calculation of steady periodic capillary-gravity waves on water of arbitrary uniform depth

This paper presents a method for the calculation of steady periodic capillary-gravity waves on water of arbitrary uniform depth. The method developed by Debiane and Kharif in 1997 for infinite depth is extended to finite depth. The water-wave problem is reduced to a system of nonlinear algebraic equations which is solved using Newton's method. For the resonant configurations, the method does not suffer from the Wilton's failures and is valid for all depths. In addition, it is shown that the method allows the computation of solitary waves and generalized solitary waves.     

Nonlinear resonance interaction between three capillary-gravity waves on the plane charged fluid surface

Three-wave interaction between capillary-gravity waves on a uniformly charged free fluid surface is analyzed using second-order analytic calculations. The time evolution of the wave amplitudes in the state of nonlinear resonance is studied. It is shown that the number of three-wave resonances is infinite and their exact locations for waves of finite amplitude depend on the initial conditions.     

Instability of Waveguides in a Liquid with Surface Effects

Long surface capillary-gravity waves and waves beneath an elastic plate simulating an ice sheet are considered for a liquid of finite depth. These waves are described by a generalized Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation containing higher (as compared with the ordinary Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation) space derivatives. The generalized Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation has waveguide solutions (waveguides) corresponding to traveling waves which are periodic in the direction of propagation and localized in the transverse direction. These waves result from the instability of uniform (carrier) periodic waves with respect to transverse perturbations. The stability of the waveguides with respect to longitudinal longwave perturbations is studied. The behavior of these perturbations depends on the wavenumber of the carrier periodic wave. Three intervals of wavenumbers corresponding to all the possible types of governing equations are considered.     

Fourier transform profilometry for water waves: how to achieve clean water attenuation with diffusive reflection at the water surface?

We present a study of the damping of capillary-gravity waves in water containing pigments. The practical interest comes from a recent profilometry technique (FTP for Fourier Transform Profilometry) using fringe projection onto the liquid-free surface. This experimental technique requires diffusive reflection of light on the liquid surface, which is usually achieved by adding white pigments. It is shown that the use of most paint pigments causes a large enhancement of the damping of the waves. Indeed, these paints contain surfactants which are easily adsorbed at the air–water interface. The resulting surface film changes the attenuation properties because of the resonance-type damping between capillary-gravity waves and Marangoni waves. We study the physicochemical properties of coloring pigments, showing that particles of the anatase (TiO₂) pigment make the water surface light diffusive while avoiding any surface film effects. The use of the chosen particles allows to perform space-time resolved FTP measurements on capillary-gravity waves, in a liquid with the damping properties of pure water.     

Effect of viscosity on dispersion of capillary-gravity waves

The effect of viscosity on dispersion of capillary-gravity waves becomes significant when the attenuation coefficient is greater than about 2.5% of the wave number. For low viscosity fluids such as water this condition is met at frequencies greater than about 5 kHz in which case direct measurement of wavelength is difficult. For higher viscosity fluids the effect appears at much lower frequencies but direct measurement of wavelength becomes difficult since viscosity causes severe attenuation of surface waves. We have overcome the measurement difficulties by using a new miniature laser interferometer, which directly measures the wavelength of standing capillary waves with the requisite precision to yield reliable dispersion data for viscous fluids. Here we review the effect of viscosity on the dispersion relation and present new experimental data on dispersion of capillary waves in several water-glycerol mixtures. Our data provides direct experimental verification of the theoretical analysis.     

A new system of equations which predicts the evolution of a wave packet due to a fluid-fluid interaction under a narrow bandwidth assumption

The problem of the capillary-gravity waves which may arise at an interface between two stratified fluids of different densities is investigated. Particular attention is paid to the case when two different wave modes move at the same speed and to the wave train produced by the ensuing interaction. In contrast to most previous studies, the wave steepness and the wave bandwidth are not taken to be of the same order of magnitude, but the latter is of one order smaller. This leads to a system of nonlinear evolution equations which can be used to predict the subsequent progression of the wave field. These equations may be compared with the more usual nonlinear Schrödinger set which are valid under the equal bandwidth assumption and also a recently derived set which describe broader bandwidth waves. A large class of solutions to the equations is found and the corresponding wave profiles are presented.     

Measuring the two-dimensional structure of a wavy water surface optically: A surface gradient detector

A new method of measuring the slopes of a water surface covered with short waves is developed. A camera is placed far above the water surface looking downward so that it receives only approximately vertical rays of light emerging from the water surface from a source below. A large lens is positioned horizontally underwater. A plane light source in the form of a translucent colored screen is placed horizontally in the focal plane below this lens. Corresponding to each value of water surface slope, regardless of observer position, there is one and only one point of origin on the color screen from which light rays can enter the camera. When the color screen has a suitable two-dimensional color pattern, we are able to detect the gradient of the surface elevation throughout the field of view of the camera. This refraction slope detector has been used to find statistical properties of short wind waves in a wind-wave channel where a broad angular beam width of capillary ripples and short gravity waves contribute to the surface slopes. In these experiments waves were generated by winds ranging from 5 m/s to 10 m/s at a fetch of 24 m. The wavenumber spectra of short wave slopes have two distinguishing features: a dip at the capillary-gravity transition and steep slopes in the capillary range. Surface shapes resembling the shape of solitary capillary-gravity waves have been found from profiles of wave elevation deduced by integration of the elevation gradient.We are especially grateful for the advice of Dr. M. Gharib on the use of the HSI color system. John Lyons provided expert help in the laboratory and materials for and advice on photography. We thank the staff of the SIO Hydraulics Laboratory for making the wind-wave channel available for our use, and the staff of UCSD library for enabling us to use the Barneyscanner photometer-digitizer. We thank an anonymous reviewer who pointed out a numerical error and improved the clarity of the text.     

Forced capillary-gravity wave motion of two-layer fluid in three-dimensions

A class of problems associated with forced capillary-gravity wave motion in a channel are analyzed in the presence of surface and interfacial tensions in a two-layer fluid in both the cases of finite and infinite water depths. The two and three-dimensional Green functions associated with the capillary-gravity wave problems in the presence of surface and interfacial tensions are derived using the fundamental source potentials. Using the two-dimensional Green function along with Green’s second identity, the expansion formulae for the velocity potentials associated with the capillary-gravity wavemaker problems in two-dimensions are obtained. The two-dimensional results are generalized to derive the expansion formulae for the velocity potentials associated with the forced capillary-gravity wave motion in the presence of surface and interfacial tensions in three-dimensions. Certain characteristics of the eigen-system associated with the expansion formulae are derived. The velocity potentials associated with the free oscillation of capillary-gravity waves in a closed basin and semi-infinite open channel in the presence of surface and interfacial tensions are obtained. The utility of the forced motion in a channel is demonstrated by analyzing the capillary-gravity wave reflection by a wall in a channel in the presence of surface and interfacial tensions. Long wave equations associated with capillary-gravity wave motion in the presence of surface and interfacial tensions are derived under shallow water approximation and the associated dispersion relation are obtained. Various expansion formulae and Green functions derived in the present study will be useful for analyzing a large class of physical problems in ocean engineering and mathematical physics.     

Cubically Nonlinear Versus Quadratically Nonlinear Elastic Waves: Main Wave Effects

This paper is a review of studies on quadratically and cubically nonlinear elastic waves in elastic materials. The main methods for analysis of the wave equations are demonstrated. The main wave phenomena are described. The disproportion between the achievements in the analyses of quadratically and cubically nonlinear waves is pointed out—cubically nonlinear waves have been studied much less     

Linear resonance in viscous films on inclined wavy planes

We study viscous gravity-driven films flowing over periodically undulated substrates. Linear analysis describes steady flow along small amplitude corrugations for films of arbitrary thickness. Solving the resulting system numerically, we demonstrate resonance (or, possibly, near resonance) and identify different behaviours for thin, intermediate and thick films. Approximating the leading-order velocity profile by the free surface value allows for an analytic solution, which – in the limit of high Reynolds numbers – recovers the different regimes and reveals the relevant physical mechanisms. Our results support the view that the resonance is associated with an interaction of the undulated film with capillary-gravity waves travelling against the mean flow direction. As a consequence, the resonance peak is attained under conditions that render the wave phase velocity equal to zero in the laboratory reference frame, and thus permit direct exchange of energy between the steadily deformed film and the free surface.     

A method to recover water-wave profiles from pressure measurements

An operational formulation is proposed for reconstructing a time series of water surface displacement from waves using measurements of pressure. The approach is based on the fully nonlinear formulation for pressure below traveling-wave solutions of Euler’s equations developed by Oliveras, Vasan, Deconinck and Henderson. Its validity is tested using experiments in which both the pressure and the surface displacement are measured. The experiments include a wave system that is Galilean invariant – cnoidal waves, and wave systems that are not – reflected cnoidal waves and wave groups. We find that since the proposed formulation is nonlinear, it reproduces the amplitude spectrum of the measured surface displacements better than the hydrostatic model and better than the linear model that takes into account the pressure response factor due to small amplitude waves (the transfer function). Both the proposed formula and the transfer function reconstruct the surface reasonably well, with the proposed formula’s being about 5% more accurate.     

An explicit formulation for the evolution of nonlinear surface waves interacting with a submerged body

An explicit formulation to study nonlinear waves interacting with a submerged body in an ideal fluid of infinite depth is presented. The formulation allows one to decompose the nonlinear wave–body interaction problem into body and free‐surface problems. After the decomposition, the body problem satisfies a modified body boundary condition in an unbounded fluid domain, while the free‐surface problem satisfies modified nonlinear free‐surface boundary conditions. It is then shown that the nonlinear free‐surface problem can be further reduced to a closed system of two nonlinear evolution equations expanded in infinite series for the free‐surface elevation and the velocity potential at the free surface. For numerical experiments, the body problem is solved using a distribution of singularities along the body surface and the system of evolution equations, truncated at third order in wave steepness, is then solved using a pseudo‐spectral method based on the fast Fourier transform. A circular cylinder translating steadily near the free surface is considered and it is found that our numerical solutions show excellent agreement with the fully nonlinear solution using a boundary integral method. We further validate our solutions for a submerged circular cylinder oscillating vertically or fixed under incoming nonlinear waves with other analytical and numerical results. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Weakly nonlinear long waves in a prestretched Blatz-Ko cylinder: Solitary, kink and periodic waves

This paper studies nonlinear waves in a prestretched cylinder composed of a Blatz-Ko material. Starting from the three-dimensional field equations, two coupled PDEs for modeling weakly nonlinear long waves are derived by using the method of coupled series and asymptotic expansions. Comparing with some other existing models in literature, an important feature of these equations is that they are consistent with traction-free surface conditions asymptotically. Also, the material nonlinearity is kept to the third order. As these two PDEs are quite complicated, the attention is focused on traveling waves, for which a first-order system of ODEs are obtained. We use the technique of dynamical systems to carry out the analysis. It turns out that the system is three parameters (the prestretch, the propagating speed and an integration constant) dependent and there are totally seven types of phase planes which contain trajectories representing bounded traveling waves. The parametric conditions for each phase plane are established. A variety of solitary and periodic waves are found. An important finding is that kink waves can propagate in a Blatz-Ko cylinder. We also find that one type of periodic waves has an interesting feature in the profile slope. Analytical expressions for all bounded traveling waves are obtained.     

考虑表面张力的非传播孤立波

本文考虑了表面张力,用多重尺度法导出了与立方 Schrodinger 方程相类似的非传播孤立波的基本方程,得到了非传播孤立波解。用毛细重力波理论解释了非传播孤立波横向谐振中波峰尖、波谷平的原因。在σ～kh 平面上首次给出了可产生非传播孤立波的二个参数区,但现有的实验点都在区域(1)中。     

An intermediate wavelength, weakly nonlinear theory for the evolution of capillary gravity waves

A new nonlinear evolution equation is derived for surface solitary waves propagating on a liquid-air interface where the wave motion is induced by a harmonic forcing. Instead of the traditional approach involving a base state of the long wave limit, a base state of harmonic waves is assumed for the perturbation analysis. This approach is considered to be more appropriate for channels of length just a few multiples of the depth. The dispersion relation found approaches the classical long wave limit. The weakly nonlinear dispersive waves satisfy a KdV-like nonlinear evolution equation with steeper nonlinearity.     

Instability of capillary-gravity waves in water of arbitrary uniform depth

The Benjamin-Feir instability of periodic capillary-gravity waves on a liquid layer of arbitrary uniform depth is investigated. When surface tension is present, there is always instability for some wavenumber and liquid depth and bounds on the sideband frequencies for unbounded amplification are derived. The results are compared with the slow modulation theory using an averaged Lagrangian.     

Model of an undular bore

In the shallow-water approximation, nonlinear long waves are considered with account for small-scale waves on the free surface. The undular-bore structure, which within the framework of this model is represented as a discontinuous solution with a relaxation zone adjacent to the discontinuity, is investigated. The wave-packet damping rate is found. The solution obtained is compared with the structure of the undular bore determined by the nonlinear dispersion equations of second-approximation shallow-water theory.     

Numerical simulation of fully nonlinear irregular wave tank in three dimension

A fully nonlinear irregular wave tank has been developed using a three‐dimensional higher‐order boundary element method (HOBEM) in the time domain. The Laplace equation is solved at each time step by an integral equation method. Based on image theory, a new Green function is applied in the whole fluid domain so that only the incident surface and free surface are discretized for the integral equation. The fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions are integrated with time to update the wave profile and boundary values on it by a semi‐mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian time marching scheme. The incident waves are generated by feeding analytic forms on the input boundary and a ramp function is introduced at the start of simulation to avoid the initial transient disturbance. The outgoing waves are sufficiently dissipated by using a spatially varying artificial damping on the free surface before they reach the downstream boundary. Numerous numerical simulations of linear and nonlinear waves are performed and the simulated results are compared with the theoretical input waves. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Nonlinear traveling waves in a compressible Mooney-Rivlin rod I. Long finite-amplitude waves

In literature, nonlinear traveling waves in elastic circular rods have only been studied based on single partial differential equation (pde) models, and here we consider such a problem by using a more accurate coupled-pde model. We derive the Hamiltonian from the model equations for the long finite-amplitude wave approximation, analyze how the number of singular points of the system changes with the parameters, and study the features of these singular points qualitatively. Various physically acceptable nonlinear traveling waves are also discussed, and corresponding examples are given. In particular, we find that certain waves, which cannot be counted by the single-equation model, can arise. The project supported by the Research Grants Council of the HKSAR, China (City U 1107/99P) and the National Natural Science Foundation of China (10372054 and 10171061)