Evidence for the sediment circulation along the coast of East Anglia

McCave (1978) suggested that, based on sediment budget considerations and coarsening of sand-size away from cliff sources, the “nesses” on the East Anglian coast of England are sites where sediment is lost to the shoreline. This view is directly opposed to that of Robinson (1966, 1980) who believed that material reached the beach from offshore at nesses largely through the effect of residual currents.

The present paper examines these two opposing views, mainly in the light of recent data from the Easton Bavents-Aldeburgh area of East Anglia. It is concluded that neither argument is proven although it is more probable that nesses are places where sediment is lost from the foreshore rather than gained from offshore. The variability of trends between one ness and another, and at different sites offshore, implies that generalisations may not be valid.     

Rising trend of relative sea level along the coast of East Asia

The rise or fall trend of the sea level along the coast of East Asia is estimated with different computational methods based on sea‐level data of longer time series collected from 45 tide gauge stations there. The results show that the relative sea level, on average, has been rising along the coast of the whole of East Asia from the early 1950s to the early 1990s. The regional change of sea‐level rise or fall is greater. The sea level along the coast of China, except along the Shandong Peninsula, is rising; the sea level along the coast of the southern islands of Japan and the southern Korean peninsula, as estimated by several methods, is mostly rising, but the rate of rise is very small. The difference between the results estimated in this study and the corresponding results of Barnett along the coast of East Asia is significant. This is mainly because the number of the stations selected by Barnett is relatively small, and the selected stations are concentrated at the southern and northern ends of the region, without data in the middle of the region. The effect of the estimating methods is smaller.     

近海北上热带气旋特征

通过研究分析1949-2011年在125°E以西近海北上,到达35°N以北登陆的热带气旋特征,总结出该类型热带气旋全部生成于125°-150°E,10°-29°N之间;出现此类型热带气旋时一般处于拉尼娜年,西太平洋副高强度较弱,副高西伸脊点偏东,副高脊线位置偏北;该类型热带气旋移动到125°E附近时,西风槽位置一般维持在110°-115°E,槽底位于25°-35°N等特征.     

东海陆架浙-闽沿岸泥质沉积研究进展

比较全面的回顾了关于东海浙-闽沿岸泥质体以及其形成前的沉积演化历史、泥质沉积的物质来源及其东亚季风/古气候记录等方面的研究进展。分析了目前关于浙-闽沿岸沉积研究中所存在的问题,即,泥质体的物质来源与形成,长江入海历史的陆架沉积物记录,8.2 ka冷事件,年代框架调整及区域对比,代用指标指示意义等多方面问题。提出在东海浙-闽沿岸泥质区,我们需要更多高分辨率的钻孔进行综合研究,其中应该特别加强对泥质沉积物的研究,以期对海陆交界敏感地带的"源到汇"以及全球变化研究取得突破性进展。     

浙江沿岸海平面变化的初步研究

本文对浙江沿岸海平面变化研究中的若干问题进行了分析和讨论,结果表明:浙江沿岸海面形状较平坦。海平面变化呈上升趋势,在过去的30～33年间,用长涂、镇海和坎门站长期潮位资料分析,海平面年上升速率为2.3mm/a。预测今后几十年间浙江沿岸海平面处在一个上升时期。     

Observation of the anticyclonic eddy formation off the Black Sea coast

An anticyclonic eddy with a horizontal dimension of 20 km travelling north-westwards at a speed of 10 cm/s has been found during an experiment carried out off the Black Sea coast. Dynamic instability owing to horizontal velocity shear could be the reason for its origin. The eddy's passage favours the development of shear instability and the generation of short-period internal waves.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

The distribution and behaviour of tar balls along the Israeli coast

A fortnightly sampling of tar balls on six beaches along the Israeli coastline between 14 April 1975 and 25 June 1976 showed that the mean content of tar during that period was 3625 g m^?1 of beach front. The northern and central parts of the coast were significantly more polluted than the southern part. Between July 1975 and February 1976 the mean tar quantity decreased continuously from 5635 to 1344 g m^?1.A comparison of tar quantities on the Israeli beaches with those of other beaches in the world showed that the Israeli beaches are more polluted than those of the west Atlantic coast, are as polluted as other beaches on the eastern coast of the Mediterranean Sea, and are less polluted than the beaches of Alexandria, Egypt, and Paphos, Cyprus. It is suggested that the tar content on the beach is related to the degree of oil pollution in the sea. The closer a beach is to an oil shipping lane or an oil dumping site, the heavier it is polluted.During storms, beach tar balls are pushed by the waves to the back of the beach or, in the case of a cliffed coast, are carried along the shore by the longshore current. When the tar balls reach a gap in the cliff (such as an estuary), they are carried inland by the storm waves. There the tar may become buried or dry, shrink and break into small particles which are then dispersed by the wind.     

Water level changes along the Norwegian coast

The water level records of 11 stations from the Norwegian coast having the recording interval 1971–1972 in common have been analysed with a least squares algorithm. The results for the harmonic constants are compared to open ocean tide models and a good agreement is found. The variation of tidal parameters and mean sea level are calculated from a 70 years water level record from Bergen. An 18.6 yearly variation in amplitude and phase of the fortnightly tide Mf could be identified. Cross correlation techniques are used to investigate the nontidal part of the water level changes. Correlating the residuals of the analyses with each other, the main nontidal water level changes are found to be moving from south to north along the Norwegian coast, taking 20 hours to reach from Stavanger to Vadsø. The effect of local air pressure on sea level is modelled using transfer functions. Mean sea level changes in Bergen are found to correlate with changes in length of day and changes in global surface temperature.     

米草属植物在中国海岸带的分布现状

结合遥感调查、现场定位,辅以文献检索、函调、电子邮件、电话等调查方式分析了4种米草属植物自引种以来在我国海岸带分布的历史及现状,结果表明,因人类围垦活动、大米草(Spartina anglica)的自身退化以及与互花米草存在生态位竞争关系,大米草在全国海岸带的分布面积不足16hm2,呈退化趋势。大绳草(Spartina cynosuriodes)尚未在实验地种植,狐米草(Spartina patens)仅在苏北、天津市的部分区域有少量种植。这两种米草没有对本土生态系统造成入侵威胁。互花米草(Spartina alterniflora)自1979年引种以来在全国海岸带被广泛种植,后经自然扩散,目前面积已达34451 hm2。结合我国的海岸带特征与互花米草的生态位,可以把其生长区域明显分为三部分:一是福建省福鼎市以南的海岸带滩涂,可能与红树林潜在的生态位竞争有关系;二是河口区域,如在长江口的崇明东滩,互花米草与本土植物表现出明显的竞争关系;三是在其他滩涂区域,该物种可能对本土生态系统造成一定程度的影响,在某些区域可能已经表现出一定的入侵性,但是其带来的促淤造陆、保滩护岸等巨大的生态效益也不应忽视。由于我国海岸带地质地貌类型复杂,互花米草在不同区域表现出不同的定植和扩散能力,与本土植被的竞争关系也明显不同。因此,在评价互花米草所造成的生态后果时,应从不同的角度出发进行全面、系统、客观、公正地评价。     

Seasonal variability of the sea surface height in the East China Sea along the China coast: A model study

The phase of the sea surface height annual variation in the East China Sea along China’s continental coast is delayed from that in the open ocean area, most probably because of seasonal strong monsoon winds. To elucidate this mechanism, we conducted an idealized model experiment using a rectangular shallow ocean with a sloped seafloor forced by southward blowing winds. We obtain a locally confined high SSH near the western boundary found in the East China Sea. The delay of the phase of the sea surface height (SSH) along the China coast can be interpreted as follows. The SSH of the East China Sea is high over large areas in September and low in March due to the expansion/contraction of seawater, which is attributable to the sea surface heat flux. However, near the continental boundary SSH becomes high in January and low in July under the influence of a monsoon winds. The phase delay along the continental boundary should appear by superposing these two time series with a phase difference near the boundary.     

北海市沿岸风暴潮特征研究

根据1965—2009年间影响北海市沿岸的热带气旋资料和风暴增水资料,进行统计分析北海市沿岸的风暴潮特征。结果表明:北海市沿岸平均每年发生风暴增水2—3次,其中较大以上强度的风暴增水每年0.87次,严重以上强度的风暴增水每3年有一次;北海市沿岸每年4—11月均有可能发生风暴增水,且集中在7—10月,尤以9月最多。影响北海市沿岸的热带气旋主要以西北行路径为主,且多是穿过雷州半岛或海南岛后在越南沿海登陆,此种情况下,风暴增水曲线表现为周期性波动。另外,本文还采用Pearson-Ⅲ分布和Gumbel分布来估算风暴增水频度,得出北海市沿岸不同重现期的高潮位值。     

Simulation of wind-induced near-inertial oscillations in a mixed layer near the east coast of Korea in the East/Japan Sea

Using a simple damped slab model,it was possible to show that a local wind induced 88%(15 of 17)of the near-inertial oscillations(NIO)observed in the mixed layer near the east coast of Korea from 1999 to 2004.The model,however,overestimated the energy level in about two-thirds of the simulated cases,because the slab model was forced with winds whose characteristic period was shorter than the damping time scale of the model at 1.5 d.At the observation site,due to typhoons and orographic effects,high-frequency wind forcing is quite common,as is the overestimation of the energy level in the slab model results.In short,a simple slab model with a damping time-scale of about 1.5 d would be enough to show that the local wind was the main energy source of the near-inertial energy in this area,but the model could not be used to accurately estimate the amount of the work done by the wind to the mixed layer.     

The cold-core eddy and strong upwelling off the coast of New South Wales in early 2007

During the Austral summer of 2006-07 a series of extreme oceanic events occurred in the Tasman Sea. Following a series of strong wind-driven upwelling events, an intense cold-core eddy developed off Sydney, Australia. A data-assimilating, eddy-resolving ocean model is used to create a three-dimensional time-varying reanalysis of these events. The reanalysis indicates that the cold anomalies associated with the upwellings were in excess of −5 °C near the coast, where sea level decreased by as much as 0.2 m. The reanalysed three-dimensional structure of the cold-core eddy shows the eddy "leaning" to the west-north-west, in towards the continental shelf. The diameter of the eddy is about 100 km and the sea-level anomaly at the eddy centre peaks at around −1 m, with an associated sub-surface temperature anomaly in excess of −8 °C at 200 m depth, corresponding to an upward isotherm excursion of 600 m. The circulation around the cyclonic eddy is ageostrophic, with upwelling in the southern sector of the eddy (where flow is onshore and climbing the continental slope) and downwelling in the northern sector (where flow is descending off the slope). Three-dimensional trajectories of water parcels around the eddy involve 50-100-m vertical excursions. Based on the reanalysed circulation and composite satellite images of Chlorophyll-a, we hypothesise that the circulation around the eddy led to significant nutrient enrichment in the euphotic zone around the perimeter of the eddy.     

The geological significance of kelp-rafted rock along the west coast of South Africa

Angular to well-rounded pebbles and cobbles have been observed along the southwest coast of South Africa, attached to holdfasts of three species of kelp:Ecklonia maxima, Laminaria pallida, andLaminaria schinzii. A kelp-rafted clast has been dredged from the outer shelf and other clasts have been observedin situ in up to 5 m of water near Cape Town. The clasts have been found on both rocky and sandy shores as well as in a large backshore lagoon on the exposed Atlantic coast of the Cape Peninsula. Isolated clasts in a mid-Holocene lagoon were probably rafted ashore during winter storms in the mid-Holocene.     

上海沿海风暴潮历史特征分析

基于中国气象局台风最佳路径数据集和欧洲中期天气预报中心(ECMWF)风场再分析资料,遴选出1979—2019年影响上海的241场历史台风事件.采用ADCIRC风暴潮模型对241场历史台风所引起的风暴潮过程进行了模拟,计算得到了上海沿海历史风暴增水数据集,由此对上海沿海代表站点的历史风暴增水进行了特征分析.结果表明,崇西...     

浙江沿岸海平面研究和变化预测

用统计学的方法对浙江沿岸海平面进行了研究, 采用多种海平面上升预测模式进行了计算和预测, 结果表明: 浙江沿岸的海平面存在明显的季节变化, 其变化曲线浙北、浙中沿岸为单峰型, 而浙南沿岸为双峰型, 南北地域差异较大。浙江沿岸过去30 a 间海平面平均上升速率为(2.63±0.06) m m /a。研究还表明, 未来浙江沿岸海平面还将上升, 按模式计算, 至2050年上升29 cm , 到2100 年估计上升值为60 cm 。     

江苏外海深水波要素推算

运用第三代海浪模式WAMC4在西北太平洋海域建立了深水波浪数学模型,利用美国国家环境预报中心(NCEP)再分析气象资料作为风场条件,对该海域波浪进行了长时间序列(1950～2009年)的数值模拟。在模型验证的基础上,采用P-III曲线对数值模拟结果进行了分方向重现期计算,得到了江苏外海13个站点一百年一遇和五十年一遇的重现期有效波高,发现江苏外海深水重现期波浪从南向北呈现递减趋势,强浪向由NE向逐渐向NNE向偏转。     

浙江沿岸基准面调查和分析

在对浙江沿岸主要验潮站的基准面进行调查和研究的基础上,确定了定海、大榭、健跳、坎门等站的潮高基面与１９８５国家高程基准的关系,这在沿海工程和灾害防御中有着重要价值。研究表明,浙江沿岸平均海平面量值高于１９８５国家高程基准,一般为２０ｃｍ左右;杭州湾的澉浦和浙南的琵琶门站多年平均海平面与邻近站不尽协调,它们的潮高基面可能有误