Statistical distribution of nonlinear random water wave surface elevation

This study deals with the development of statistical modeling for water wave surface elevation by using a method that combines a dynamic solution with random process statistics. Ocean wave data taken from four NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) buoys moored in the northeast Pacific were used to validate the model. The results indicated that the nonlinear probability density distribution of ocean wave surface elevation derived from the model described the measurements much better than Gaussian distribution and Longuet-Higgins distribution.     

Experimental Investigation of Wave Load and Run-up on the Composite Bucket Foundation Influenced by Regular Waves

In the design of wind turbine foundations for offshore wind farms, the wave load and run-up slamming on the supporting structure are the quantities that need to be considered. Because of a special arc transition, the interaction between the wave field and the composite bucket foundation(CBF) becomes complicated. In this study, the hydrodynamic characteristics, including wave pressure, load, upwelling, and run-up, around the arc transition of a CBF influenced by regular waves are investigated through physical tests at Shandong Provincial Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering, Ocean University of China. The distributions of the wave pressures and upwelling ratios around the CBF are described, and the relationship between the wave load and the wave parameters is discussed. New formulae based on the velocity stagnation head theory with linear wave theory and the second-order Stokes wave theory for wave kinematics are proposed to estimate the wave run-up. Moreover, the multiple regression method with nonlinear technology is employed to deduce an empirical formula for predicting run-up heights. Results show that the non-dimensional wave load increases with the increase in the values of the wave scattering parameter and relative wave height. The wave upwelling height is high in front of the CBF and has the lowest value at an angle of 135? with the incoming wave direction. The performance of the new formulae proposed in this study is compared using statistical indices to demonstrate that a good fit is obtained by the multiple regression method and the analytical model based on the velocity stagnation head theory is underdeveloped.     

Calculation of significant wave height using the linear mean square estimation method

Significant wave height is an important criterion in designing coastal and offshore structures. Based on the orthogonality principle, the linear mean square estimation method is applied to calculate significant wave height in this paper. Twenty-eight-year time series of wave data collected from three ocean buoys near San Francisco along the California coast are analyzed. It is proved theoretically that the computation error will be reduced by using as many measured data as possible for the calculation of significant wave height. Measured significant wave height at one buoy location is compared with the calculated value based on the data from two other adjacent buoys. The results indicate that the linear mean square estimation method can be well applied to the calculation and prediction of significant wave height in coastal regions.     

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造礁石珊瑚自然海区断枝培育技术研究

【目的】研究探讨造礁石珊瑚自然海区断枝培育技术的条件和方法。【方法】在深圳大鹏新区大澳湾海区海底搭建海区断枝培育系统,并在系统上培育膨胀蔷薇珊瑚(Montiporaturgescens)、霜鹿角珊瑚(Acropora pruinosa)、盾形陀螺珊瑚(Turbinaria peltata)、十字牡丹珊瑚(Pavona decussata)和澄黄滨珊瑚(Porites lutea)等5种造礁石珊瑚的断枝(每种珊瑚100株),开展为期12个月的实验。【结果】5种珊瑚在深圳市大鹏新区大澳湾海域的断枝培育系统上培育12个月后,5种造礁石珊瑚断枝存活率分别为96%、93%、95%、85%和83%。珊瑚断枝生长指标测量结果显示,5种珊瑚中霜鹿角珊瑚生长速度最快,其断枝横向增长长度平均可达46.2mm;其次是膨胀蔷薇珊瑚,其断枝横向伸长长度平均可达38.2 mm;而澄黄滨珊瑚生长速度最慢,横向伸长长度都在24mm以下。【结论】在合适海区,使用海区石珊瑚断枝培育系统进行造礁石珊瑚培育,可改善其存活率和生长。     

Diffusion Characteristics of Swells in the North Indian Ocean

Research on the diffusion characteristics of swells contributes positively to wave energy forecasting, swell monitoring, and early warning. In this work, the South Indian Ocean westerly index(SIWI) and Indian Ocean swell diffusion effect index(IOSDEI) are defined on the basis of the 45-year(September 1957–August 2002) ERA-40 wave reanalysis data from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF) to analyze the impact of the South Indian Ocean westerlies on the propagation of swell acreage. The following results were obtained: 1) The South Indian Ocean swell mainly propagates from southwest to northeast. The swell also spreads to the Arabian Sea upon reaching low-latitude waters. The 2.0-meter contour of the swell can reach northward to Sri Lankan waters. 2) The size of the IOSDEI is determined by the SIWI strength. The IOSDEI requires approximately 2–3.5 days to fully respond to the SIWI. The correlations between SIWI and IOSDEI show obvious seasonal differences, with the highest correlations found in December–January–February(DJF) and the lowest correlations observed in June–July–August(JJA). 3) The SIWI and IOSDEI have a common period of approximately 1 week in JJA and DJF. The SIWI leads by approximately 2–3 days in this common period.     

Elimination of the impact of vessels on ocean wave height inversion with X-band wave monitoring radar

Directional wave spectra and integrated wave parameters can be derived from X-band radar sea surface images.A vessel on the sea surface has a significant influence on wave parameter inversions that can be seen as intensive backscatter speckles in X-band wave monitoring radar sea surface images.A novel algorithm to eliminate the interference of vessels in ocean wave height inversions from X-band wave monitoring radar is proposed.This algorithm is based on the characteristics of the interference.The principal components(PCs) of a sea surface image sequence are extracted using empirical orthogonal function(EOF)analysis.The standard deviation of the PCs is then used to identify vessel interference within the image sequence.To mitigate the interference,a suppression method based on a frequency domain geometric model is applied.The algorithm framework has been applied to OSMAR-X,a wave monitoring system developed by Wuhan University,based on nautical X-band radar.Several sea surface images captured on vessels by OSMAR-X are processed using the method proposed in this paper.Inversion schemes are validated by comparisons with data from in situ wave buoys.The root-mean-square error between the significant wave heights(SWH) retrieved from original interference radar images and those measured by the buoy is reduced by 0.25 m.The determinations of surface gravity wave parameters,in particular SWH,confirm the applicability of the proposed method.     

A study on the Antarctic circumpolar wave mode-A coexistence system of standing and traveling wave

The Antarctic circumpolar wave （ACW） has become a focus of the air-sea coupled Southern Ocean study since 1996, when it was discovered as an air-sea coupled interannual signal propagating eastward in the region of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current （ACC）. In order to analyze the mechanism of discontinuity along the latitudinal propagation, a new idea that ACW is a system with a traveling wave in the Southern Pacific and Atlantic Ocean and with a concurrent standing wave in the southern Indian Ocean is proposed in this paper. Based on the ideal wave principle, the average wave parameters of ACW is achieved using a non-linear approximation method, by which we find that the standing part and the traveling part possess similar radius frequency, proving their belonging to an integral system. We also give the latitudinal distribution of wave speed with which we could tell the reason for steady propagation during the same period. The spatial distribution of the propagation reveals complex process with variant spatial and temporal scales--The ENSO scale oscillation greatly impacts on the traveling process, while the result at the south of Australia indicates little connection between the Indian Ocean and the Pacific, which may be blocked by the vibration at the west of the Pacific. The advective effect of ACC on the propagation process should be examined clearly through dynamical method.     

Evaluating the Accuracy of ERA5 Wave Reanalysis in the Water Around China

Wave parameters, such as wave height and wave period, are important for human activities, such as navigation, ocean engineering and sediment transport, etc. In this study, wave data from six buoys around Chinese waters, are used to assess the quality of wave height and wave period in the ERA5 reanalysis of the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts. Annual hourly data with temporal resolution are used. The difference between the significant wave height(SWH) of ERA 5 and that of the buoy varies from-0.35 m to 0.30 m for the three shallow locations;for the three deep locations, the variation ranges from-0.09 m to 0.09 m. The ERA5 SWH data show positive biases, indicating an overall overestimation for all locations, except for E2 and S1 where underestimation is observed. During the tropical cyclone period, a large(about 32%) underestimation of the maximum SWH in the ERA5 data is observed. Hence, the ERA5 SWH data cannot be used for design applications without site-specific validation. The difference between the annual wave period from ERA5 and the mean wave period from the buoys varies from-1.31 s to 0.4 s. Inter-comparisons suggest that the ERA5 dataset is consistent with the annual mean SWH. However, for the average period, the performance is not good, and half of the correlation coefficients in the four points are less 50%. Overall, the deep water area simulation effect is better than that in the shallow water.     

Reduced growth in hybrid tilapia (Oreochromis mossambicus ×O. Niloticus) at intermediate stocking density

Hybrid tilapia were reared at densities of 1, 5 or 10 fish per tank for four weeks. Mortality was 0 at 1 and 10 fish per tank, but was 25% at 5 fish per tank. Specific growth rate was highest at 1 fish per tank, and lowest at 5 fish per tank. The lower growth rate at the intermediate stocking density was associated with reduced feed efficiency, but there was no reduction in feed intake or digestibility. The results suggested increased metabolic cost caused by aggressive behaviour at intermediate stocking density, which can be suppressed by a further increase in density. This project was financially supported by the State Key Laboratory of Freshwater Ecology and Biotechnology of China and by Shanghai Fisheries University (Project SFU. 200003).     

Measurements of ocean wave and current field using dual polarized X-band radar

A new ocean wave and sea surface current monitoring system with horizontally-(HH) and vertically-(VV) polarized X-band radar was developed. Two experiments into the use of the radar system were carried out at two sites, respectively, for calibration process in Zhangzi Island of the Yellow Sea, and for validation in the Yellow Sea and South China Sea. Ocean wave parameters and sea surface current velocities were retrieved from the dual polarized radar image sequences based on an inverse method. The results obtained from dual-polarized radar data sets acquired in Zhangzi Island are compared with those from an ocean directional buoy. The results show that ocean wave parameters and sea surface current velocities retrieved from radar image sets are in a good agreement with those observed by the buoy. In particular, it has been found that the vertically-polarized radar is better than the horizontally-polarized radar in retrieving ocean wave parameters, especially in detecting the significant wave height below 1.0 m.     

海参酶解液对斑马鱼糖尿病并发抑郁样行为的改善作用

【目的】探究海参酶解液对高糖高脂所致的斑马鱼抑郁样行为的改善作用。【方法】将斑马鱼随机分为对照组、模型组各1组,和海参酶解液高剂量(1.0m L/L)治疗组、低剂量(0.5m L/L)治疗组各1组。每天利用高浓度葡萄糖(质量分数2%)系统浸泡及高胆固醇(质量分数10%)饲料饲喂诱导斑马鱼高糖高脂模型,高低浓度海参酶解液浸泡治疗。14 d后进行新鱼缸潜水行为实验,取鱼体匀浆进行组织各生化指标的检测,包括葡萄糖(Glucose, Glu)、总胆固醇(Total cholesterol, TC)、皮质醇(Cortisol, Cor)浓度。【结果】新鱼缸行为实验中,与对照组相比较,模型组斑马鱼的行为学实验都有明显差异,其中焦虑型行为潜伏期、冻结次数和冻结时间等抑郁型行为增加,探究型行为顶部转移和顶部时间减少,而1.0 mL/L高剂量海参酶解液可以逆转这些变化。模型组葡萄糖、总胆固醇、皮质醇浓度相比对照组显著升高,而给予海参酶解液治疗后,高剂量治疗组对模型组的葡萄糖、总胆固醇及皮质醇浓度均有显著降低的作用。【结论】海参酶解液可以通过改善高糖高脂诱导的糖尿病模型中糖脂水平来改善抑郁样行为和应激激素。     

CALCULATIONS OF WAVE BREAKING PROBABILITY AND DISTRIBUTION OF BREAKING WAVE HEIGHTS IN DEEP WATER

lareODUcrI0NThephenomenonofbreakingwavesintheoasnoocurswheneveramomentahiyhighcrestmecheSanunstablecondition.It0ccursintendtimhy,andtheoccurrencefre-qUencydePendsonthescastate.ManystudAshaddricaniedoutontheoccurmcefre-qUencyofbrmkingwavesindeepweter.0chiandTsai(l983),LongueHiggins(l975)andVanD0mandPamn(l975)nadstheptalictonofbrmkingwavesoccurrenceindeePwater,usingabaskingcriterionforindividualwavesbasedonthewavesmpness.ThecriterioncanbeexpmeedintennSofthewaVehdghtHandperiodTasH>PgT'(…     

“2009海洋社会变迁与海洋社会学学科建设研讨会”综述

2009年7月20日至21日,由广东社会学学会海洋专业委员会发起,广东海洋大学和中国海洋大学联合主办了"中国海洋社会变迁与海洋社会学学科建设学术研讨会"。会议围绕海洋社会学学科建设与深入海洋社会研究的两大主题展开交流与讨论,展现我国社会学学者的海洋关怀与主张,展望了基于田野灵感的经验分析和理论建构的海洋社会学学科研究的操作途径和发展前景。     

Investigation of wave characteristics in a semi-enclosed bay based on SWAN model validated with buoys and ADP-observed currents

In this study, the simulating waves nearshore(SWAN) model with a locally refined curvilinear grid system was constructed to simulate waves in Jervis Bay and the neighbouring ocean of Australia, with the aim of examining the wave characteristics in an area with special topography and practical importance.This model was verified by field observations from buoys and acoustic Doppler profilers(ADPs). The model precisions were validated for both wind-generated waves and open-ocean swells. We present an approach with which to convert ADP-observed current data from near the bottom into the significant wave height. Our approach is deduced from the Fourier transform technique and the linear wave theory. The results illustrate that the location of the bay entrance is important because it allows the swells in the dominant direction to propagate into the bay despite the narrowness of the bay entrance. The wave period T p is also strongly related to the wave direction in the semi-enclosed bay. The T p is great enough along the entire propagating direction from the bay entrance to the top of the bay, and the largest T p appears along the north-west coast,which is the end tip of the swells' propagation.     

Numerical Study of Storm Surge Inundation in the Southwestern Hangzhou Bay Region During Typhoon Chan-Hom in 2015

Storm surge inundation is a major concern in marine hazard risk assessment during extreme weather conditions.In this study,a high-resolution coupled model(the ADVanced CIRCulation model+the Simulating WAves Nearshore model)was used to investigate the storm surge inundation in the southwestern Hangzhou Bay region during Typhoon Chan-hom in 2015.The simulated hydrodynamic processes(sea surface wave and storm tide)were validated with measured data from wave buoys and tide gauges,indicating that the overall performance of the model was satisfactory.The storm surge inundation in the coastal area was simulated for several idealized control experiments,including different wave effects(wave-enhanced wind stress,wave-enhanced bottom stress,and wave radiation stress).Dike overflowing cases with different dike heights and dike breaking cases with different dike breach lengths were considered in the simulation.The results highlight the necessity of incorporating wave effects in the accurate simulation of storm surge inundation.Dike height significantly influences the magnitude and phase of the maximum inundation area in the dike overflowing cases,and dike breach length is an important factor impacting the magnitude of the maximum inundation area in the dike breaking cases.This study may serve as a useful reference for accurate coastal inundation simulation and risk assessment.     

Wind-forced equatorial wave dynamics of the Pacific Ocean during 2014/2015 and 2015/2016 E1 Ni?o events

The equatorial wave dynamics of interannual sea level variations between 2014/2015 and2015/2016 El Nino events are compared using the Laboratory of Numerical Modeling for Atmospheric Sciences and Geophysical Fluid Dynamics,Institute of Atmospheric Physics Climate Ocean Model(LICOM) forced by the National Centers for Environmental Prediction(NCEP) reanalysis I wind stre s s and heat flux during 2000-2015.In addition,the LICOM can reproduce the interannual variability of sea surface temperature anomalies(SSTA) and sea level anomalies(SLA) along the equator over the Pacific Ocean in comparison with the Hadley center and altimetric data well.We extracted the equatorial wave coefficients of LICOM simulation to get the contribution to SLA by multiplying the meridional wave structure.During 2014/2015 El Nino event,upwelling equatorial Kelvin waves from the western boundary in April2014 reach the eastern Pacific Ocean,which weakened SLA in the eastern Pacific Ocean.However,no upwelling equatorial Kelvin waves from the western boundary of the Pacific Ocean could reach the eastern boundary during the 2015/2016 El Nino event.Linear wave model results also demonstrate that upwelling equatorial Kelvin waves in both 2014/2015 and 2015/2016 from the western boundary can reach the eastern boundary.However,the contribution from stronger westerly anomalies forced downwelling equatorial Kelvin waves overwhelmed that from the upwelling equatorial Kelvin waves from the western boundary in 2015.Therefore,the western boundary reflection and weak westerly wind burst inhibited the growth of the 2014/2015 El Nino event.The disclosed equatorial wave dynamics are important to the simulation and prediction of ENSO events in future studies.     

The effect of current and wave on whitecap coverage via relative speed： the Atlantic Ocean case

Whitecapping plays an important role in many air-sea exchange and upper ocean processes. Traditionally, whitecap coverage is parameterized as a function of wind speed only. At present, the relative speed of ocean current to wind is considered to be important in the air-sea exchange parameterization which is the function of wind speed only. In this paper, the effects of ocean surface velocity (current velocity and wave induced velocity) and the wave parameters on whitecap coverage through relative speeds are investigated, by applying a 2-parameter whitecap coverage model to the Atlantic Ocean. It is found that the impacts of both current and wave on whitecap coverage are considerable in the most part of the Atlantic Ocean. It is interesting that the effect of wave is more significant than that of current.     

异养鞭毛虫对铜绿微囊藻的生长影响

【目的】研究异养鞭毛虫(Paraphysomonas sp.)在不同密度铜绿微囊藻(Microcystis aeruginosa)中的生长状况,探讨其对铜绿微囊藻的摄食及抑制作用。【方法】实验共设6个铜绿微囊藻密度,分别是0、250×10~4、500×10~4、750×10~4、1 000×10~4和2 000×10~4cells/mL,研究异养鞭毛虫与微囊藻的种群数量变化。【结果】异养鞭毛虫主要行异养生活。在铜绿微囊藻密度为250×10~4~2 000×10~4 cells/mL时,异养鞭毛虫对铜绿微囊藻的抑制率为98.00%~99.69%。单个鞭毛虫对微囊藻的摄食率为13~49 cells/d。异养鞭毛虫的密度和生长率随铜绿微囊藻密度的升高而增加,在铜绿微囊藻密度为500×10~4~1000×10~4cells/mL时,异养鞭毛虫密度为21×10~4~24×10~4cells/mL、生长率为0.6~0.74 d^-1。但是,铜绿微囊藻密度过高也不利于异养鞭毛虫的种群增长,在2 000×10~4 cells/mL密度时,异养鞭毛虫的生长速率显著低于其它密度组。【结论】异养鞭毛虫能有效抑制铜绿微囊藻种群增长,其生长的最适微囊藻密度为500×10~4~1 000×10~4 cells/mL。