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Elimination of the impact of vessels on ocean wave height inversion with X-band wave monitoring radar

Directional wave spectra and integrated wave parameters can be derived from X-band radar sea surface images.A vessel on the sea surface has a significant influence on wave parameter inversions that can be seen as intensive backscatter speckles in X-band wave monitoring radar sea surface images.A novel algorithm to eliminate the interference of vessels in ocean wave height inversions from X-band wave monitoring radar is proposed.This algorithm is based on the characteristics of the interference.The principal components(PCs) of a sea surface image sequence are extracted using empirical orthogonal function(EOF)analysis.The standard deviation of the PCs is then used to identify vessel interference within the image sequence.To mitigate the interference,a suppression method based on a frequency domain geometric model is applied.The algorithm framework has been applied to OSMAR-X,a wave monitoring system developed by Wuhan University,based on nautical X-band radar.Several sea surface images captured on vessels by OSMAR-X are processed using the method proposed in this paper.Inversion schemes are validated by comparisons with data from in situ wave buoys.The root-mean-square error between the significant wave heights(SWH) retrieved from original interference radar images and those measured by the buoy is reduced by 0.25 m.The determinations of surface gravity wave parameters,in particular SWH,confirm the applicability of the proposed method.     

A background error covariance model of significant wave height employing Monte Carlo simulation

The quality of background error statistics is one of the key components for successful assimilation of observations in a numerical model.The background error covariance(BEC) of ocean waves is generally estimated under an assumption that it is stationary over a period of time and uniform over a domain.However,error statistics are in fact functions of the physical processes governing the meteorological situation and vary with the wave condition.In this paper,we simulated the BEC of the significant wave height(SWH) employing Monte Carlo methods.An interesting result is that the BEC varies consistently with the mean wave direction(MWD).In the model domain,the BEC of the SWH decreases significantly when the MWD changes abruptly.A new BEC model of the SWH based on the correlation between the BEC and MWD was then developed.A case study of regional data assimilation was performed,where the SWH observations of buoy 22001 were used to assess the SWH hindcast.The results show that the new BEC model benefits wave prediction and allows reasonable approximations of anisotropy and inhomogeneous errors.     

Comparison and analysis of Envisat ASAR ocean wave spectra with buoy data in the northern Pacific Ocean

The validation and assessment of Envisat advanced synthetic aperture radar (ASAR) ocean wave spectra products are important to their application in ocean wave numerical predictions. Six-year ASAR wave spectra data are compared with one-dimensional (1D) wave spectra of 55 co-located moored buoy observations in the northern Pacific Ocean. The ASAR wave spectra data are firstly quality control filtered and spatio-temporal matched with buoy data. The comparisons are then performed in terms of 1D wave spectra, significant wave height (SWH) and mean wave period (MWP) in different spatio-temporal offsets respectively. SWH comparison results show the evident dependence of SWH biases on wind speed and the ASAR SWH saturation effect. The ASAR wave spectra tend to underestimate SWH at high wind speeds and overestimate SWH at low wind speeds. MWP comparison results show that MWP has a systematic bias and therefore it should be bias-modified before used. The comparisons of 1D wave spectra show that both wave spectra agree better at low frequencies than at high frequencies, which indicates the ASAR data cannot resolve the high frequency waves.     

Long-term variation of storm surge-associated waves in the Bohai Sea

When investigating the long-term variation of wave characteristics as associated with storm surges in the Bohai Sea, the Simulating Waves Nearshore(SWAN) model and ADvanced CIRCulation(ADCIRC) model were coupled to simulate 32 storm surges between 1985 and 2014. This simulation was validated by reproducing three actual wave processes, showing that the simulated significant wave height(SWH) and mean wave period agreed well with the actual measurements. In addition, the long-term variations in SWH, patterns in SWH extremes along the Bohai Sea coast, the 100-year return period SWH extreme distribution, and waves conditional probability distribution were calculated and analyzed. We find that the trend of SWH extremes in most of the coastal stations was negative, among which the largest trend was-0.03 m/a in the western part of Liaodong Bay. From the 100-year return period of the SWH distribution calculated in the Gumbel method, we find that the SWH extremes associated with storm surges decreased gradually from the center of the Bohai Sea to the coast. In addition, the joint probability of wave and surge for the entire Bohai Sea in 100-year return period was determined by the Gumbel logistic method. We therefore, assuming a minimum surge of one meter across the entire Bohai Sea, obtained the spatial SWH distribution. The conclusions of this study are significant for offshore and coastal engineering design.     

Interannual variability of SST,SLA and wind waves in the Hawaii area and their responses to ENSO

Time series of sea surface temperature (SST),wind speed and significant wave height (SWH) from meteorologicalbuoys of the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) are useful for studying the interannual variability and trend of these quantities at the buoy areas.The measurements from 4 buoys (B51001,B51002,B51003 and B51004) in the Hawaii area are used to study theresponses of the quantities to EI Nino and Southern Oscillation (ENSO).Long-term averages of these data reflect precise seasonaland climatological characteristics of SST,wind speed and SWH around the Hawaii area.Buoy observations from B51001 suggest asignificant warming trend which is,however,not very clear from the other three buoys.Compared with the variability of SST andSWH,the wind speeds from the buoy observations show an increasing trend.The impacts of El Nifio on SST and wind waves arealso shown.Sea level data observed by altimeter during October 1992 to September 2006 are analyzed to investigate the variabilityof sea level in the Hawaii area.The results also show an increasing trend in sea level anomaly (SLA).The low-passed SLA in theHawaii area is consistent with the inverse phase of the low-passed Sol (Southern Oscillation Index).Compared with the low-passedSOl and PDO (Pacific Decadal Oscillation),the low-passed PNA (Pacific-North America Index) has a better correlation with thelow-passed SLA in the Hawaii area.     

Analysis of Dynamic Characteristics of the 21st Century Maritime Silk Road

The 21st century Maritime Silk Road(MSR) proposed by China strongly promotes the maritime industry. In this paper, we use wind and ocean wave datasets from 1979 to 2014 to analyze the spatial and temporal distributions of the wind speed, significant wave height(SWH), mean wave direction(MWD), and mean wave period(MWP) in the MSR. The analysis results indicate that the Luzon Strait and Gulf of Aden have the most obvious seasonal variations and that the central Indian Ocean is relatively stable. We analyzed the distributions of the maximum wind speed and SWH in the MSR over this 36-year period. The results show that the distribution of the monthly average frequency for SWH exceeds 4 m(huge waves) and that of the corresponding wind speed exceeds 13.9 ms~(-1)(high wind speed). The occurrence frequencies of huge waves and high winds in regions east of the Gulf of Aden are as high as 56% and 80%, respectively. We also assessed the wave and wind energies in different seasons. Based on our analyses, we propose a risk factor(RF) for determining navigation safety levels, based on the wind speed and SWH. We determine the spatial and temporal RF distributions for different seasons and analyze the corresponding impact on four major sea routes. Finally, we determine the spatial distribution of tropical cyclones from 2000 to 2015 and analyze the corresponding impact on the four sea routes. The analysis of the dynamic characteristics of the MSR provides references for ship navigation as well as ocean engineering.     

Calculation of significant wave height using the linear mean square estimation method

Significant wave height is an important criterion in designing coastal and offshore structures. Based on the orthogonality principle, the linear mean square estimation method is applied to calculate significant wave height in this paper. Twenty-eight-year time series of wave data collected from three ocean buoys near San Francisco along the California coast are analyzed. It is proved theoretically that the computation error will be reduced by using as many measured data as possible for the calculation of significant wave height. Measured significant wave height at one buoy location is compared with the calculated value based on the data from two other adjacent buoys. The results indicate that the linear mean square estimation method can be well applied to the calculation and prediction of significant wave height in coastal regions.     

两种海浪模式对一次台风浪过程的模拟分析

以CCMP（Cross—Calibrated,Multi—Platfoml）风场为驱动场,分别驱动目前国际先进的第3代海浪模式ww3（WAVEWATCH—III）、SWAN（Simulating WAves Nearshore）,对2010年9月发生在东中国海的台风“圆规”所致的台风浪进行数值模拟,就台风浪的特征进行分析,并对比分析两个海浪模式的模拟效果。结果表明：1）以CCMP风场分别驱动WW3、SWAN海浪模式,可以较好地模拟发生在东中国海的台风浪,风向与波向保持了大体一致,波高与风速的分布特征保持了很好的一致性;2）综合相关系数、偏差、均方根误差、平均绝对误差来看,两个模式模拟的有效波高（SWH—Significant Wdve Height）都具有较高精度,SWAN模拟的SWH略低于观测值,WW3模拟的SWH与观测值更为接近;3）台风浪可给琉球群岛海域带来5m左右的大浪,台风浪进入东海后,波高、风速都有一定程度的增加,当台风沿西北路径穿越朝鲜半岛时,受到半岛地形的巨大影响,风速和波高都明显降低。     

Ambient noise during rough weather and cyclones in the shallow Bay of Bengal

This paper presents ambient noise analysis during rough weather, using time series measurements from an automated noise measurement system in the shallow southwest Bay of Bengal during October–November 2010. The period witnessed low-pressure events including depressions and cyclones, with JAL cyclone passing close to the measurement site. The time series noise level shows a shift in mid-October, after which deep depressions and cyclones formed, with an average increase of 5–10 dB in the lower band and 2–3 dB in the higher band of frequencies. Furthermore, correlation between noise level and wave height(data from wave rider buoy deployed at the site) for sea state scale 3 and above shows good correlation with an increase in noise level with increase in wave height, the effect being most pronounced at 0.5 kHz. The noise captured during JAL was analysed to identify the spectrum components due to convective precipitation and heavy wind/wave activity and shows anomalously high levels during the crossing of the cyclone. Rain noise spectra from the rain bands associated with the wall of the cyclone are reported. This has been correlated with radar refl ectivity measurements to ascertain the presence of rain, and discriminate between convective and stratiform types. Also, vertical directionality pattern of ambient noise during JAL showed clearly distinct surface contributions. On the whole, knowledge of ambient noise fields during high sea states and precipitation is useful in optimizing SONAR performance. The findings at the study site have been compared with measurements from other shallow water locations during rough weather.     

Trends in significant wave height and surface wind speed in the China Seas between 1988 and 2011

Wind and waves are key components of the climate system as they drive air-sea interactions and influence weather systems and atmospheric circulation. In marine environments, understanding surface wind and wave fields and their evolution over time is important for conducting safe and efficient human activities, such as navigation and engineering. This study considers long-term trends in the sea surface wind speed(WS) and significant wave height(SWH) in the China Seas over the period 1988–2011 using the Cross-Calibrated Multi-Platform(CCMP) ocean surface wind product and a 24-year hindcast wave dataset obtained from the WAVEWATCH-III(WW3) wave model forced with CCMP winds. The long-term trends in WS and SWH in the China Seas are analyzed over the past 24 years to provide a reference point from which to assess future climate change and offshore wind and wave energy resource development in the region. Results demonstrate that over the period 1988–2011 in the China Seas: 1) WS and SWH showed a significant increasing trend of 3.38 cm s~(-1)yr~(-1) and 1.52 cm yr~(-1), respectively; 2) there were notable regional differences in the long-term trends of WS and SWH; 3) areas with strong increasing trends were located mainly in the middle of the Tsushima Strait, the northern and southern areas of the Taiwan Strait, and in nearshore regions of the northern South China Sea; and 4) the long-term trend in WS was closely associated with El Ni?o and a significant increase in the occurrence of gale force winds in the region.     

A joint method to retrieve directional ocean wave spectra from SAR and wave spectrometer data

This paper proposes a joint method to simultaneously retrieve wave spectra at dif ferent scales from spaceborne Synthetic Aperture Radar(SAR) and wave spectrometer data. The method combines the output from the two dif ferent sensors to overcome retrieval limitations that occur in some sea states. The wave spectrometer sensitivity coeffi cient is estimated using an ef fective signifi cant wave height(SWH), which is an average of SAR-derived and wave spectrometer-derived SWH. This averaging extends the area of the sea surface sampled by the nadir beam of the wave spectrometer to improve the accuracy of the estimated sensitivity coeffi cient in inhomogeneous sea states. Wave spectra are then retrieved from SAR data using wave spectrometer-derived spectra as fi rst guess spectra to complement the short waves lost in SAR data retrieval. In addition, the problem of 180° ambiguity in retrieved spectra is overcome using SAR imaginary cross spectra. Simulated data were used to validate the joint method. The simulations demonstrated that retrieved wave parameters, including SWH, peak wave length(PWL), and peak wave direction(PWD), agree well with reference parameters. Collocated data from ENVISAT advanced SAR(ASAR), the airborne wave spectrometer STORM, the PHAROS buoy, and the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasting(ECMWF) were then used to verify the proposed method. Wave parameters retrieved from STORM and two ASAR images were compared to buoy and ECMWF wave data. Most of the retrieved parameters were comparable to reference parameters. The results of this study show that the proposed joint retrieval method could be a valuable complement to traditional methods used to retrieve directional ocean wave spectra, particularly in inhomogeneous sea states.     

Analysis of Wave Distributions Using the WAVEWATCH-Ⅲ Model in the Arctic Ocean

In this work, we examined long-term wave distributions using a third-generation numerical wave model called WAVE- WATCH-Ⅲ(WW3) (version 6.07). We also evaluated the influence of sea ice on wave simulation by using eight parametric switches. To select a suitable ice-wave parameterization, we validated the simulations from the WW3 model in March, May, September, and December 2017 against the measurements from the Jason-2 altimeter at latitudes of up to 60?N. Generally, all parameterizations ex-hibited slight differences, i.e., about 0.6 m root mean square error (RMSE) of significant wave height (SWH) in May and September and about 0.9 m RMSE for the freezing months of March and December. The comparison of the results with the SWH from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts for December 2017 indicated that switch IC4_M1 performed most effec-tively (0.68 m RMSE) at high latitudes (60?– 80?N). Given this finding, we analyzed the long-term wave distributions in 1999 – 2018 on the basis of switch IC4_M1. Although the seasonal variability of the simulated SWH was of two types, i.e., 'U' and 'sin' modes, our results proved that fetch expansion prompted the wave growth. Moreover, the interannual variability of the specific regions in the 'U' mode was found to be correlated with the decade variability of wind in the Arctic Ocean.     

中国区域ERA5和MERRA-2再分析资料计算Tm的精度分析

以中国区域89个探空站2017年资料为参考值,对ERA5和MERRA-2再分析资料积分计算的Tm的精度进行评估,并分析2种资料计算的Tm的bias和RMSE的时空变化特性。结果表明：1）以探空站资料为参考值,ERA5和MERRA-2再分析资料计算的Tm的年均bias分别为0.41 K和0.10 K,年均RMSE分别为1.26 K和1.34 K。2）2种资料计算的Tm的bias和RMSE具有相似的时空变化特性,时间上总体表现为夏季精度高、冬季精度稍低,但ERA5再分析资料计算的Tm的bias在全年均表现为正值,而MERRA-2再分析资料计算的Tm的bias在夏季表现为负值,其余时间表现为正值;在空间上,2种资料计算的Tm的bias和RMSE在高程上无明显变化特性,但在纬度上RMSE均表现出随纬度增加而逐渐变大的趋势,总体保持在2.5 K以内。     

黑龙江林口MB6.4深震前通河地磁谐波振幅比异常特征

采用黑龙江通河地磁台分钟值数据进行谐波振幅比计算,结果显示：2016-01-02黑龙江林口MB6.4深源地震前,距离震中150 km的通河地磁台谐波振幅比出现明显异常,异常特征有：1）地磁谐波振幅比YZHx和YZHy主要表现为“下降-转折-恢复”的形态;2）谐波振幅比异常变化中的转折上升形态具有由深（较长周期）至浅（较短周期）的迁移特征;3）2014-03~2016-01YZHy在不同深度出现介质电性不同步异常;4）YZHy异常幅度大于YZHx异常幅度。异常产生的原因可能是由于西太平洋板块持续以高速度、小倾角向欧亚大陆下方俯冲,林口地震前孕震体应力变化导致地磁台站附近局部介质电性产生变化。     

Long-Term Characterization of Sea Conditions in the East China Sea Using Significant Wave Height and Wind Speed

In this study, the statistical characterization of sea conditions in the East China Sea(ECS) is investigated by analyzing a significant wave height and wind speed data at a 6-hour interval for 30 years(1980–2009), which was simulated and computed using the WAVEWATCH Ⅲ(WW3) model. The monthly variations of these parameters showed that the significant wave height and wind speed have minimum values of 0.73 m and 5.15 ms~(-1) and 1.73 m and 8.24 ms~(-1) in the month of May and December, respectively. The annual, seasonal, and monthly mean sea state characterizations showed that the slight sea generally prevailed in the ECS and had nearly the highest occurrence in all seasons and months. Additionally, the moderate sea prevailed in the winter months of December and January, while the smooth(wavelets) sea prevailed in May. Furthermore, the spatial variation of sea states showed that the calm and smooth sea had the largest occurrences in the northern ECS. The slight sea occurred mostly(above 30%) in parts of the ECS and the surrounding locations, while higher occurrences of the rough and very rough seas were distributed in waters between the southwest ECS and the northeast South China Sea(SCS). The occurrences of the phenomenal sea conditions are insignificant and are distributed in the northwest Pacific and its upper region, which includes the Southern Kyushu-Palau Ridge and Ryukyu Trench.     

Retrieval of Significant Wave Height Under Typhoon Conditions from Gaofen-3 SAR Imagery

The objective of this paper is to propose an empirical method to inverse significant wave height(SWH)under typhoon conditions from collected dual-polarization Gaofen(GF)-3 synthetic aperture radar(SAR)imagery.The typhoon scenes were cap-tured from narrow scan(NSC)and wide scan(WSC)images,and collocated with European Center for Medium-Range Weather Fore-casts reanalysis data of(ECMWF).To improve the quality of GF-3 SAR images,the recalibration over rainforest and de-scalloping were carried out.To establish the empirical relationship between SAR-derived parameters and collocated SWH,the sensitivity analysis of typical parameters about the normalized radar cross section(Nrcs)and imagery variance(Cvar)were performed to both VV and VH polarized images.Four scenes from GF-3 SAR imagery under typhoon conditions were used for training the model by the multivari-ate least square regression,and one scene was used for preliminary validation.It was found that the joint retrieval model based on VV and VH polarized SAR imagery performed better than any single polarized model.These results,verified by using ECMWF data,revealed the soundness of this approach,with a correlation of 0.95,bias of 0 m,RMSE of 0.44 and SI of 0.01 when VV polarization and VH polarization data were both used.     

复杂山区地形条件下ERA5再分析地表气温降尺度方法

高时空分辨率的气温栅格数据是多种地学模型和气候模型的重要输入。山区地形复杂,气温空间异质性强,如何获取高时空分辨率的山区地表气温数据一直是研究热点与难点。本文选择地形复杂的河北省张家口市作为试验区,基于局部薄盘样条函数对ERA5再分析日均近地表气温（2 m高度）进行空间插值,并利用随机森林算法,结合少量气象站观测气温数据、地形地表参数数据构建日均气温订正模型和气温逐时化模型,实现空间分辨率由0.1 °（约11 km）到30 m的逐时气温降尺度,最后将该模型拓展应用于其他时间与区域,检验本文发展的降尺度方法在没有站点观测数据条件下的时空移植性。结果显示,本文降尺度方法得到的高时空分辨率山区气温数据精度较高,1月均方根误差（RMSE）平均值为2.4 ℃,明显优于气象站点插值结果,且气温相对高低的空间分布更为合理、纹理更加丰富;将该方法应用到其他时间与区域的RMSE平均值分别为2.9 ℃与2.5 ℃,均小于再分析资料直接插值所产生的误差。研究结果总体表明,在气象站点较少甚至没有时,可利用本文方法通过ERA5再分析气温准确获取复杂地形条件下的山区高时空分辨率气温数据。     

The fractional power law of wind wave growth in deep water for short fetch

Combining the 3/2 power law proposed by Toba with the significant wave energy balance equation for wind waves, wave growth in deep water for short fetch is investigated. It is found that the variations of wave height and period with fetch have the form of power function with fractional exponents 3/8 and 1/4 respectively. Using these exponents in the power functions and through data fitting, the concise wind wave growth relations for short fetch are obtained.     

Impacts of tropical cyclone inflow angle on ocean surface waves

The inflow angle of tropical cyclones(TC) is generally neglected in numerical studies of ocean surface waves induced by TC.In this study,the impacts of TC inflow angle on ocean surface waves were investigated using a high-resolution wave model.Six numerical experiments were conducted to examine,in detail,the effects of inflow angle on mean wave parameters and the spectrum of wave directions.A comparison of the waves simulated in these experiments shows that inflow angle significantly modifies TC-induced ocean surface waves.As the inflow angle increases,the asymmetric axis of the significant wave height(SWH) field shifts 30u clockwise,and the maximum SWH moves from the front-right to the rear-right quadrant.Inflow angle also affects other mean wave parameters,especially in the rear-left quadrant,such as the mean wave direction,the mean wavelength,and the peak direction.Inflow angle is a key factor in wave models for the reproduction of double-peak or multi-peak patterns in the spectrum of wave directions.Sensitivity experiments also show that the simulation with a 40u inflow angle is the closest to that of the NOAA statistical SLOSH inflow angle.This suggests that 40u can be used as the inflow angle in future TC-induced ocean surface wave simulations when SLOSH or observed inflow angles are not available.