Trapping of fine sediment in a semi-enclosed bay, Palau, Micronesia

Airai Bay, Palau, is a small (3 km²), semi-enclosed, mangrove-fringed, meso-tidal, coral lagoon on the southeast coast of Palau. It drains a small catchment area (26 km²) of highly erodible soils in an area with high annual rainfall (3.7 m). River floods are short-lived and the sediment load is very large, with suspended fine sediment concentration exceeding 1500 mg l⁻¹. The resulting river plume is about 2 m thick. The brackish water residence time is about 7 days; during this period the plume remains a distinct surface feature even after river runoff has ceased. About 98% of the riverine fine sediment settles in Airai Bay, of which about 15–30% is deposited in the mangroves during river floods. This mud remains trapped in Airai Bay because the bay is protected from ocean swells and the tidal currents and locally generated wind waves are too small to resuspend the mud in quantity. The mud is smothering coral reefs, creating a phase shift from coral to fleshy algae dominance, and is even changing habitats by creating mud banks. The persistence of Airai Bay marine resources may not be possible without improved soil erosion control in the river catchment.     

Water and fine sediment dynamics in transient river plumes in a small, reef-fringed bay, Guam

Fouha Bay is a 400-m-long funnel-shaped, 10-m-deep, coral-fringed embayment on the southwest coast of Guam. It drains a small catchment area (5 km²) of steeply sloping, highly erodible lateritic soils. River floods are short-lived and the sediment load is very large, with suspended sediment concentration (SSC) exceeding 1000 mg l⁻¹. The resulting river plume is about 1 m thick and is pulsing in a series of 1–2 h-long events, with outflow velocity peaking at 0.05 m s⁻¹. Turbulent entrainment results in an oceanic inflow at depth into the bay. As soon as river flow stops, the plume floats passively and takes 5 days to be flushed out of Fouha Bay. The suspended fine sediment flocculates in 5 min and aggregates on ambient transparent exopolymer particles to form muddy marine snow flocs. In calm weather, about 75% of the riverine mud settles out of the river plume into the underlying oceanic water where it forms a transient nepheloid layer. This mud ultimately settles and is trapped in Fouha Bay. Under typhoon-driven, swell waves, the surface plume is at least 7 m thick and bottom entrainment of mud results in SSC exceeding 1000 mg l⁻¹ for several days. It is suggested that successful management of fringing coral reefs adjacent to volcanic islands may not be possible without proper land use management in the surrounding catchment.     

Importance of wave-induced bed liquefaction in the fine sediment budget of Cleveland Bay,Great Barrier Reef

Data from a three-year long field study of fine sediment dynamics in Cleveland Bay show that wave-induced liquefaction of the fine sediment bed on the seafloor in shallow water was the main process causing bed erosion under small waves during tradewinds, and that shear-induced erosion prevailed during cyclonic conditions. These data were used to verify a model of fine sediment dynamics that calculates sediment resuspension by both excess shear stress and wave-induced liquefaction of the bed. For present land-use conditions, the amount of riverine sediments settling on the bay may exceed by 50–75% the amount of sediment exported from the bay. Sediment is thus accumulating in the bay on an annual basis, which in turn may degrade the fringing coral reefs. For those years when a tropical cyclone impacted the bay there may be a net sediment outflow from the bay. During the dry, tradewind season, fine sediment was progressively winnowed out of the shallow, reefal waters.     

Bedload sediment transport dynamics in a macrotidal embayment, and implications for export to the southern Great Barrier Reef shelf

Keppel Bay is a macrotidal embayment on a tectonically stable, tropical coast, which links the Fitzroy River with the Great Barrier Reef continental shelf. Estuaries and deltas act as conduits between catchments and inner shelf environments. Therefore, understanding sediment transport pathways in these complex systems is essential for the management of ecosystems such as coral-reefs that are potentially vulnerable to enhanced river sediment loads. Furthermore, the morphology and sediment dynamics of subtidal sand ridges and dunes are relatively poorly characterised in macrotidal estuaries, particularly in turbid, episodic systems such as the Fitzroy River and Keppel Bay. Our sedimentological analysis of seabed samples, shear-stress modelling and three-dimensional acoustic imaging reveals that Keppel Bay is a mixed wave- and tide-dominated estuarine system. Areas of sediment starvation and shoreward transport characterise the offshore zone, whereas a complex of both active and relict tidal sand ridges, and associated subaqueous dunes, dominate the relatively protected southern Keppel Bay. Transport within this region is highly dynamic and variable, with ebb-dominated sediment transport through tidal channels into the outer bay where there is a switch to wave-dominated shoreward transport. Ultimately, bedload sediments appear to be reworked back inshore and to the north, and are gradually infilling the bedrock-defined embayment. Our characterisation of the Keppel Bay system provides a detailed example of the physiography of the seaward portion of a tide-dominated system, and shows that sediment transport in these areas is influenced by a variable hydrodynamic regime as well as relict channels and bedrock topography.     

Sedimentation in mangroves and coral reefs in a wet tropical island, Pohnpei, Micronesia

A six-month-long study was conducted of the fate of turbid river plumes from the Enipein watershed in Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia. Pohnpei is one of the wettest places on earth, with a mean annual rainfall exceeding 4 m in the lowlands and 8 m in the highlands. The river waters were clear of sediment except after major storms with rainfall exceeding 5 cm day⁻¹. Following a storm, the river plume spread in the mangrove fringed estuary and in the coral reef lagoon. The waters were highly stratified in temperature, salinity, and suspended sediment concentration. The brackish water was flushed out in four days, while the suspended sediment all settled out in the estuary, in the mangroves, and in the lagoon including on the coral reefs, in less than one day. The mean rate of sedimentation exceeded 35 mg cm⁻² d⁻¹ both over the mangroves and on the adjacent coral reefs. While this leads to no detrimental effects on the mangroves, sediment smothers corals and leads to substantial coral mortality in the lagoon. The mud is not flushed out from the lagoon because there are no strong currents from waves or tides. This high sedimentation rate is attributable to poor farming and land-use practices on the upland areas.     

Tidally-induced clouds of suspended sediment connected to shallow-water coral reefs

The Bay of Banten, West Java, Indonesia represents a shallow coastal embayment harboring coral reefs subject to extremely turbid conditions. The sedimentary regime and flow structure of two contrasting coral reef islands in the embayment were investigated to identify the mechanisms responsible for mean and peak levels of suspended sediment concentration (SSC) around the reefs. Arrays of in situ calibrated optical backscatter (OBS) sensors were deployed across the reef slopes. Far field conditions were simultaneously monitored using an acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) and a conductivity temperature and depth (CTD) probe, equipped with an OBS sensor. In addition, hydrographic surveys were conducted using the ADCP attached to a small fishing boat, navigating transects perpendicular to the reef islands. The direct influence of river plumes was found to be insignificant. Waves act only in the uppermost few meters of the reef slopes, where coral growth is most abundant and little sediment is available for resuspension. Tidal currents are the primary cause of high turbidity, which was inferred from peaks in the diurnal and semidiurnal frequency bands of SSC spectra, and the large depths where the turbidity variation sometimes initiates. The entrained sediment disperses upward across the reef slopes, which is likely due to a secondary current associated with bending of the flow along the curved, hydraulically rough reef slopes, in weakly stratified ambient waters. Changes in sediment availability, variable critical shear stresses for erosion and deposition, and the formation and evanescence of island wakes may explain the high variability of SSC at the reef slopes.     

波浪作用下细颗粒泥沙起动试验研究

长江口北槽中下段滩面泥沙以粉砂和极细砂为主,在风浪条件下极易起动,形成近底高浓度含沙层,成为航道淤积的重要泥沙来源。采用长江口北槽中下段滩面现场泥沙,进行了波浪作用下泥沙的起动试验研究。试验结果表明:相同水深条件下,波浪周期越长,泥沙的起动波高越小;相同波浪周期条件下,水深越大,泥沙起动波高越大;对于自然密实1天的泥沙,波浪作用下的起动临界剪切力平均约为0.325 N/m2。本次试验结果和已有的波浪起动公式计算结果以及已有的试验结果进行了比较分析,结果均比较一致。     

Mesozooplankton dynamics in nearshore waters of the Great Barrier Reef

Zooplankton dynamics (community composition, juvenile somatic growth rate, adult egg production, secondary production) were studied in coastal waters of the Great Barrier Reef. Two sectors were compared, one adjacent to a catchment of near-pristine land use patterns, the other to a more intensively farmed catchment. Sampling was conducted in the austral winter (August) and summer (January–March) of two succeeding years. Gradients in zooplankton community composition were weak, with only moderate effects of season and sector. Overall, 37% of zooplankton biomass was in the 73–150 μm size fraction, 26% in the 150–350 μm fraction, and 38% was >350 μm. There was no biomass difference and only small differences in community composition between samples taken during the day and at night; ostracods and large calanoid copepods were occasionally more common at night. Carbon-specific growth rates averaged 0.29 d⁻¹ for cyclopoid copepods and 0.35 d⁻¹ for calanoid copepods, with no difference between sectors. Calanoid copepod growth showed a significant relationship to chlorophyll concentration, but cyclopoid copepods did not. Copepod egg production was low (7.9 ± 5.9 eggs female⁻¹ d⁻¹) and apparently food-limited. Copepod secondary production was lower in August (mean = 2.6, range 1.4–4.0 mg C m⁻² d⁻¹) than in January–March (mean = 8.5, range 2.4–15.5 mg C m⁻² d⁻¹). Secondary production by mesozooplankton in the 73–100 μm size range averaged 0.9% of total phytoplankton production.     

Benthic Foraminifera as ecological indicators for water quality on the Great Barrier Reef

Benthic foraminifera are established indicators for Water Quality (WQ) in Florida and the Caribbean. However, nearshore coral reefs of the Great Barrier Reef (GBR) and other Pacific regions are also subjected to increased nutrient and sediment loads. Here, we investigate the use of benthic foraminifera as indicators to assess status and trends of WQ on GBR reefs. We quantified several sediment parameters and the foraminiferan assemblage composition on 20 reefs in four geographic regions of the GBR, and along a water column nutrient and turbidity gradient. Twenty-seven easily recognisable benthic foraminiferan taxa (>63 μm) were distinguished. All four geographic regions differed significantly (p < 0.05, ANOSIM) in their assemblage composition, and a redundancy analysis (RDA) showed that sediment parameters only explained a small proportion of the variance in the assemblage composition. On nine reefs along a previously studied water quality gradient, foraminifera showed a distinct shift in assemblage composition towards larger symbiont-bearing taxa from turbid inner shelf towards clearer outer shelf reefs. A RDA separated symbiotic and aposymbiotic (heterotrophic) taxa. In addition, total suspended solid and water column chlorophyll a concentrations were negatively correlated, and optical depth and distance to the mainland were positively correlated, with the abundance of symbiont-bearing taxa. Several large foraminifera were identified as indicators for offshore, clear water conditions. In contrast, heterotrophic rotaliids and a species retaining plastids (Elphidium sp.) where highly characteristic for low light, higher nutrient conditions. Application of the FORAM index to GBR assemblage composition showed a significant increase in the value of this index with increased distance from the mainland in the Whitsunday region (r² = 0.75, p < 0.001), and therefore with increasing light and decreased nutrient availability. We conclude that it will be possible to apply this index to GBR and possibly other Pacific reefs after some adaptations and additional experimental work on species-specific limiting factors.     

High-sediment tolerance in the reef coral Turbinaria mesenterina from the inner Great Barrier Reef lagoon (Australia)

Sedimentation is an important stressor on coral reefs subjected to run-off, dredging and resuspension events. Reefs with a history of high-sediment loads tend to be dominated by a few tolerant coral species. A key question is whether such species live close to their tolerance thresholds or near their niche optima. Here, we analyse experimentally the sediment tolerance of a spatially dominant coral, Turbinaria mesenterina (Dendrophylliidae), at nearshore reefs in the central Great Barrier Reef lagoon. Testing was conducted in a 5-week tank experiment under manipulated sediment loading and flow conditions. Physiological stress was assessed based on the behaviour of three key response variables: skeletal growth rate, energy reserves (lipid content) and photosynthetic performance. Because sediment effects are likely to vary between flow regimes, sediment and flow responses were tested using a full factorial design. Sediment loads greater than 110 mg cm⁻² had no effect on any of the physiological variables, regardless of flow (0.7–24 cm s⁻¹). Turbinaria mesenterina is thus tolerant to sediment loads an order of magnitude higher than most severe sediment conditions in situ. Likely mechanisms for such tolerance are that: (1) colonies covered in sediment (60–120 μm) in low-flow were able to clear themselves rapidly (within 4–5 h); and (2) sediment provides a source of food. These results suggest that intensified sediment regimes on coastal reefs may shift coral communities towards dominance by a few well-adapted species.     

Input of particulate heavy metals from rivers and associated sedimentary deposits on the Gulf of Lion continental shelf

Fluxes of the heavy metals chromium (Cr), cobalt (Co), nickel (Ni), copper (Cu), lead (Pb), cadmium (Cd) and zinc (Zn) delivered by rivers to the Gulf of Lion (NW Mediterranean Sea) were estimated over a three year study of the River Rhone and its smaller tributaries. Most of the particulate metal fluxes (80–90%) delivered by these rivers occurred within a very short period of time (less than 12%), a typical trend for the Mediterranean environment, where highly contrasting hydrological regimes were observed over the year. Temporal and spatial variations in the fluxes of these particulate metals were driven by the fluxes in both water discharge and suspended particulate matter load. On the shelf, these particulate metal fluxes, largely arising from the Rhone watershed, were two to ten times more important than those resulting from atmospheric deposition. Co, Cr and Ni in the rivers and on the shelf surface sediments were mainly natural and associated with the finest particles. Cd and Phosphorus appeared to be associated with the silt fraction and to be enriched in the prodelta areas. Pb, Zn and Cu were more closely associated with the organic matter content and also showed enrichment in the organic rich prodeltaic sediments. Anthropogenic influences diminished offshore, except for Pb and Zn which could be supplied from the atmosphere by man-made aerosols. Although most of the metals tended to be enriched in the prodelta areas, these did not constitute a permanent sink due to resuspension processes affecting these shallow depths. A resuspension experiment conducted on sediment cores from the Rhone prodelta demonstrated that metal deposited on the surface layer, especially those associated with the organic matter, may be resuspended; this should be taken into account for a complete understanding of the biogeochemical cycle of these metals.     

Quantifying the impact of watershed urbanization on a coral reef: Maunalua Bay,Hawaii

Human activities in the watersheds surrounding Maunalua Bay, Oahu, Hawaii, have lead to the degradation of coastal coral reefs affecting populations of marine organisms of ecological, economic and cultural value. Urbanization, stream channelization, breaching of a peninsula, seawalls, and dredging on the east side of the bay have resulted in increased volumes and residence time of polluted runoff waters, eutrophication, trapping of terrigenous sediments, and the formation of a permanent nepheloid layer. The ecosystem collapse on the east side of the bay and the prevailing westward longshore current have resulted in the collapse of the coral and coralline algae population on the west side of the bay. In turn this has lead to a decrease in carbonate sediment production through bio-erosion as well as a disintegration of the dead coral and coralline algae, leading to sediment starvation and increased wave breaking on the coast and thus increased coastal erosion. The field data and resulting coral reef ecohydrology model presented in this paper demonstrate and quantify the importance of biophysical processes leading to coral reef degradation as the result of urbanization. Coral restoration in Maunalua Bay will require an integrated ecosystem approach.     

波浪作用下细颗粒泥沙悬移特性的试验研究

通过9组室内水槽试验,系统分析了不同周期和波高波浪作用下粉砂质细砂的悬移特性。试验结果表明,在波浪作用下,细颗粒泥沙在水体中悬浮产生明显的三层混浊结构：近底高浓度混浊层、中部混浊层和上部低浓度混浊层。其混浊度的大小与波浪动力条件相关,波浪周期的延长和波高的增加都会使近底层悬沙浓度显著增大,悬沙浓度的波动性在近底层表现得最为突出和复杂;波浪动力条件的改变对上层水体的悬沙浓度基本不产生影响。当波浪作用停止,悬沙开始静水沉降时,近底层水体含沙浓度的变化与波浪要素的比值相关,当波浪要素的比值大于临界值时,底层含沙浓度在一定时间段内反而增加,出现浓度返起现象。     

Patterns and controls of surface sediment distribution: west-central Florida inner shelf

The west-central Florida inner shelf represents a transition between the quartz-dominated barrier-island system and the carbonate-dominated mid-outer shelf. Surface sediments exhibit a complex distribution pattern that can be attributed to multiple sediment sources and the ineffectiveness of physical processes for large-scale sediment redistribution. The west Florida shelf is the submerged extension of the Florida carbonate platform, consisting of a limestone karst surface veneered with a thin unconsolidated sediment cover. A total of 498 surface sediment samples were collected on the inner shelf and analyzed for texture and composition. Results show that sediment consists of a combination of fine quartz sand and coarse, biogenic carbonate sand and gravel, with variable but subordinate amounts of black, phosphorite-rich sand. The carbonate component consists primarily of molluskan fragments. The distribution is patchy and discontinuous with no discernible pattern, and the transition between sediment types is generally abrupt. Quartz-rich sediment dominates the inner 15 km north of the entrance into Tampa Bay, but south of the Bay is common only along the inner 3 km. Elsewhere, carbonate-rich sediment is the predominate sediment type, except where there is little sediment cover, in which cases black, phosphorite-rich sand dominates. Sediment sources are likely within, or around the periphery of the basin. Fine quartz sand is likely reworked from coastal units deposited during Pleistocene sea-level high stands. Carbonate sand and gravel is produced by marine organisms within the depositional basin. The black, phosphorite-rich sand likely originates from the bioerosion and reworking of the underlying strata that irregularly crop out within the study area. The distribution pattern contains elements of both storm- and tide-dominated siliciclastic shelves, but it is dictated primarily by the sediment source, similar to some carbonate systems. Other systems with similar sediment attributes include cool-water carbonate, sediment-starved, and mixed carbonate/siliciclastic systems. This study suggests a possible genetic link among the three systems.     

Tripod measured residual currents and sediment flux: Impacts on the silting of the Deepwater Navigation Channel in the Changjiang Estuary

Four bottom-mounted instrument-equipped tripods were deployed at two sections spanning the region characterized by severe sedimentation rates in the Deepwater Navigation Channel (DNC) along the North Passage of Changjiang Estuary in order to observe currents, near-bed suspended sediment, and salinity. Seaward residual currents predominated in the up-estuary section. In contrast, a classical two-layered estuarine circulation pattern occurred in the down-estuary section. Flow moved seaward in the upper layer and a heavier inflow, driven by the salinity gradient, moved landward in the lower layer. The near-bed residual currents in the up-estuary section and the down-estuary section acted in opposing directions, which implies that the region is a convergence zone of near-bed residual currents that trap sediment at the bottom. The maximum salinity gradient at the maximum flood current indicates the presence of a strong front that induces sediment trapping and associated near-bottom convergence of sediment, which explains the high sedimentation rates in this section of the estuary.     

Photochemical activity in waters of the Great Barrier Reef

Photochemical activity in waters of the Great Barrier Reef was investigated through studies on the vertical, horizontal and temporal distribution of hydrogen peroxide and factors influencing its generation and decay processes. Surface hydrogen peroxide concentrations varied from 15 to 110 nM and generally decreased with depth, though a number of anomalies were detected. Photochemical activity decreased with increasing distance from the coast reflecting the positive influence of terrestrial inputs to the hydrogen peroxide generation and decay processes. Increases in photochemical activity were observed in the proximity of coral reefs. Hydrogen peroxide concentrations in the region were influenced by wind-induced mixing processes, atmospheric inputs, anthropogenic activity and seasonal light regimes.     

江苏大丰潮滩悬沙级配特征及其动力响应

根据2002和2003年夏季在江苏大丰潮滩的现场观测资料,详细分析了悬沙级配的时空分布特征、影响因素及其对再悬浮、沉降和流速的响应.研究结果表明,悬沙颗粒较细,以粉砂为主,悬沙级配在潮周期内的变化模式有两种类型:一是稳定型,悬沙级配的时空(垂向和平面)变化很小;二是双峰型,悬沙级配的时空变化显著,粗细峰高度不断变化.再悬浮、沉降、涨潮时输入潮滩的悬沙和底质级配是影响悬沙级配的重要因子.再悬浮使粗颗粒悬沙的含量增加,悬沙与底质级配不断接近,沉降对悬沙级配的影响与再悬浮相反.再悬浮发生时悬沙级配对流速有明显响应.在没有再悬浮和沉降影响的情况下,潮滩不同部位、不同时间的悬沙级配趋于稳定和相同,对这种状态下的悬沙级配可称为背景悬沙级配,大丰潮滩背景悬沙级配的平均粒径为7μm.     

Dynamics of hypersaline coastal waters in the Great Barrier Reef

The coastal waters of the Great Barrier Reef (GBR) are hypersaline (salinity ∼37) during the dry season as a result of evaporation greatly exceeding rainfall, of shallow waters, and of the presence of numerous bays along the coast preventing rapid flushing. These hypersaline waters are not flushed out by salinity-driven baroclinic currents because these waters are vertically well-mixed. Instead these waters are transported by a longshore residual current and thus form a coastal boundary layer of hypersaline waters. As a result the hypersalinity distribution is 2-D with both cross-shelf and longshore gradients of salinity. The cross-shelf gradients are largely controlled by turbulent diffusion, while the longshore gradients are controlled by the residual currents that transport hypersaline waters longshore south ward in the central and southern regions of the GBR. Because every bay supplies hypersaline waters, the width of the coastal hypersaline layer increases southwards. Steady state is reached in about 100 days, which is the typical duration of the dry season. The dynamics of the GBR hypersaline coastal boundary layer thus differ from the classical inverse hypersaline systems, e.g. in Saloum River Estuary, Laguna San Ignacio, Mission Bay, Tomales Bay, San Diego Bay, Hervey Bay, Shark Bay, Coorong Coast Lagoon, Spencer Gulf, Gulf of California and many others where the salinity gradient is mainly 1-D with a dominant along-channel salinity gradient.     

丰水期珠江口黏性泥沙输运的三维数值模拟

珠江口的黏性泥沙输运对区域海洋工程和河口海洋环境有着重要的影响。本文利用SELFE模型,针对珠江河口海域建立了一个采用非结构三角形网格的三维斜压水动力模型,可耦合模拟海流、潮流及风海流水动力环境,并在此基础上开发了包括底床模块的黏性泥沙输运模型。模拟结果与实测值验证较好,再现了丰水期珠江河口的泥沙输运特征以及最大浑浊带的变化和分布特点。研究表明,丰水期珠江口悬沙质量浓度西侧大于东侧,泥沙主要来自河口上游。河口浅滩上会形成最大浑浊带,最大质量浓度可达0.5 g/L。珠江口最大浑浊带的形成主要受潮动力、重力环流及泥沙再悬浮和沉积过程影响,其中泥沙再悬浮和沉积过程对中滩的最大浑浊带影响显著,而重力环流作用对西滩的最大浑浊带影响显著。