Large-scale dune erosion tests to study the influence of wave periods

Large-scale physical model tests were performed to quantify the effects of the wave period on dune erosion. Attention was focussed on 2D cross-shore effects in a situation with sandy dunes and extreme water levels and wave conditions. Besides profile measurements, detailed measurements in time and space of water pressure, flow velocities and sediment concentrations were performed in the near near-shore area. It was concluded that a longer wave period leads to a larger dune erosion volume and to a larger landward retreat of the dune face. Tests with double-peaked wave spectra showed that the influence of the spectral shape on dune erosion was best represented by the T_m − 1,0 spectral mean wave period, better than the peak wave period, T_p. The effect of the wave period on dune erosion was implemented in a dune erosion prediction method that estimates erosion volumes during normative storm conditions for the Dutch coast. More details of the measurements and additional analyses of physical processes are described in an accompanying paper by Van Thiel de Vries et al. [Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M., van Gent, M.R.A., Reniers, A.J.H.M. and Walstra, D.J.R., submitted for publication. Analysis of dune erosion processes in large scale flume experiments, In this volume of Coastal Engineering.].     

平均海平面上升对东中国海台风风暴潮影响的数值模拟

本文采用ECOMSED模式模拟了影响东中国海的3次台风过程,经与实测资料对比验证了模型的可靠性。在此基础上设计了敏感性试验以考察海平面上升对风暴潮造成的影响。结果表明,海平面上升对风暴潮的影响在空间分布上不是一致的,且因具体台风过程而异。整体而言,海平面上升对风暴潮造成的影响有限。海平面上升0．5m,大部分站位风暴增水极值基本不变,即使海平面上升5m大部分站位的风暴增水极值相对改变量都小于10％。     

河口海岸泥沙输移的分组数学模型研究

根据河口海岸水沙输移的特点,建立了一个新的二维分组数学模型,用来预测该区域的水沙输移过程。该模型耦合了水动力模块、泥沙输移模块和床面演变模块。其中水动力模块基于浅水方程组,综合考虑了柯氏力、床面切应力以及表面风应力的影响,引入干湿判断法处理动边界。泥沙输移模块首先将泥沙按照粒径分组,针对不同泥砂性质,对各组泥沙分别进行建模求解。床面演变模块基于质量守恒方程,实时更新床面高程以及床沙级配变化,并传递给水动力模块,更新底部边界。该模型被应用在了英国塞汶(Severn)河口,其预测的泥沙浓度和实测数据以及不分组的模型的预测结果进行了比较,结果显示,文中建立的分组模型预测的结果要明显好于不分组模型。     

广西北海银滩侵蚀及其与海平面上升的关系

基于历史图件对比方法和Bruun法则对广西北海银滩岸线的侵蚀进行评估和预测.结果表明银滩在近30a内海岸侵蚀达10.40 m/a,其中人类活动作用是造成海岸侵蚀的主要因素,人类活动对岸线位置蚀退的影响贡献为98%;海平面上升导致岸线蚀退的贡献仅为2%.然而,在未来100 a内,基于历史图件对比分析估算的银滩侵蚀宽度可能超过1 000 m,银滩环境将会发生退化.因海平面上升而对岸线蚀退的贡献权重增加为9%.由于人类活动导致的银滩退化可以进行控制和预防,故对未来海平面上升引发的银滩环境退化应该予以重点关注.     

Modeling of storm-induced coastal flooding for emergency management

This paper describes a model package that simulates coastal flooding resulting from storm surge and waves generated by tropical cyclones. The package consists of four component models implemented at three levels of nested geographic regions, namely, ocean, coastal, and nearshore. The operation is automated through a preprocessor that prepares the computational grids and input atmospheric conditions and manages the data transfer between components. The third generation spectral wave model WAM and a nonlinear long-wave model calculate respectively the wave conditions and storm surge over the ocean region. The simulation results define the water levels and boundary conditions for the model SWAN to transform the storm waves in coastal regions. The storm surge and local tides define the water level in each nearshore region, where a Boussinesq model uses the wave spectra output from SWAN to simulate the surf-zone processes and runup along the coastline. The package is applied to hindcast the coastal flooding caused by Hurricanes Iwa and Iniki, which hit the Hawaiian Island of Kauai in 1982 and 1992, respectively. The model results indicate good agreement with the storm-water levels and overwash debris lines recorded during and after the events, demonstrating the capability of the model package as a forecast tool for emergency management.     

A simplified hindcast method for the estimation of extreme storm surge events in semi-enclosed basins

Human presence, coastal erosion, and tourism activities are increasing the attention to coastal flooding risk. To perform risk assessments, long time series of observed or hindcast wave parameters and tide levels are then necessary. In some cases, only a few years of observation are available, so that observed extreme data are not always representative and reliable. A hindcast system aimed to reconstruct long time series of total tide levels may be of great help to perform robust extreme events analysis and then to protect human life, activities as well as to counteract coastal erosion by means of risk assessments. This work aims to propose a simplified method to hindcast storm surge levels time series in semi-enclosed basins with low computational costs. The method is an extension of a previous work of some of the authors and consists of a mixed approach in which the estimation of storm surge obtained by using the theory of linear dynamic system is corrected by using a statistical method. Both steps are characterized by low computational costs. Nevertheless, the results may be considered reliable enough also in view of the simplicity of the approach. The proposed method has been applied to the Manfredonia case study, a small village located in the Southern Adriatic Italian coast and often prone to coastal flooding events. The comparison of extreme events estimated on the basis of hindcast levels time series is satisfactorily similar to those estimated on the basis of observed tide series.     

鸭绿江口与邻近西海岸沉积记录的耦合

通过对采自鸭绿江口主汊道的5个柱状样的210Pb和137Cs测年以及粒度参数的分析,并与前期合作研究的西汊道及西岸潮滩的4个柱状样沉积物的测年和粒度研究成果进行比对,探讨了流域来水来沙、河口沉积与海岸发育之间的耦合效应及鸭绿江河口地貌演化的新证据。结果表明:鸭绿江口主汊道存在河流和潮流两种沉积作用,不同时期动力作用不同;以潮流作用为主的沉积时段,其沉积特征与西汊道及西岸潮滩的一致;主汊道沉积物的物质来源与西汊道和西岸潮滩的物质来源存在差异。鸭绿江口的主汊道、西汊道及邻近海岸的沉积记录对环境变化、人类活动、流域大洪水等事件均存在响应,响应的时间基本同步,具有耦合效应。沉积记录中存在5个明显的“事件信号”,其中1960年最为重要,是鸭绿江河口地貌发生巨变的时间。     

The modern change and evolution tendency of sand coast in the eastern area of Liaodong Gulf

Ｔｈｅ　ｍｏｄｅｒｎ　ｃｈａｎｇｅ　ａｎｄ　ｅｖｏｌｕｔｉｏｎ　ｔｅｎｄｅｎｃｙ　ｏｆ　ｓａｎｄ　ｃｏａｓｔ　ｉｎ　ｔｈｅ　ｅａｓｔｅｒｎ　ａｒｅａ　ｏｆ　Ｌｉａｏｄｏｎｇ　ＧｕｌｆＭｉａｏＦｅｎｇｍｉｎ；ＢｉＺｈａｏｑｉ；ＬｉＳｈｕｙｕａｎ；Ｘｉａ...     

福建海岸侵蚀风险评价研究

海岸侵蚀和淤积一直存在于海岸带系统内并塑造着现在的海岸线,近年来不当的人类活动以及全球气候变化加剧了海岸侵蚀,导致沿海土地流失,威胁人类生命财产安全。本文构建了海岸侵蚀风险评价理论体系,阐述了海岸侵蚀风险评价的方法,为海岸侵蚀风险管理提供有效指导。运用层析分析法确定评价指标权重;根据模糊集理论合成海岸侵蚀风险等级。以福建省海岸带为例,进行了海岸侵蚀风险评价,编绘了风险评价图,评价结果与客观情况比较吻合,验证了文中理论方法的适用性。本文构建的海岸侵蚀风险评价理论体系可以推广到其他区域,但应根据实际情况适当调整指标个数以及指标权重。     

Modelling the effect of wave overtopping on nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around shore-parallel breakwaters

Wave overtopping nearshore coastal structures, such as shore-parallel breakwaters, can significantly alter the current circulation and sediment transport patterns around the structures, which in turn affects the formation of tombolos and salients in the nearshore area. This paper describes the implementation of a wave overtopping module into an existing depth-averaged coastal morphological mode: COAST2D and model applications to investigate the effect of wave overtopping on the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around a group of shore-parallel breakwaters. The hydrodynamic aspects of the model were validated against a series of laboratory conditions. The model was then applied to a study site at Sea Palling, Norfolk, UK, where 9 shore-parallel segmented breakwaters including 4 surface-piercing and 5 low-crested breakwaters are present, for the storm conditions in Nov 2006. The model results were compared with laboratory data and field measurements, showing a good agreement on both hydrodynamics and morphological changes. Further analysis of wave overtopping effect on the nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics reveals that wave overtopping has significant impacts on the nearshore circulation, sediment transport and the resulting morphological changes within such a complex breakwater scheme under the storm and macro-tide conditions. The results indicate the importance of including the wave overtopping in modelling nearshore morphodynamics with the presence of coastal structures.     

黄河三角洲北部岸滩的侵蚀演变

为研究黄河三角洲海底冲刷演变规律,2004年6月和9月,在黄河三角洲北部、飞雁滩以东岸段进行了2次共21条水深剖面测线的调查工作。通过1985年、1999年两期历史水深资料与本次实测水深资料的对比研究发现:自1985年以来,研究区一直处于冲蚀状态,1999年以后局部区域出现微弱淤积,侵蚀中心逐渐向东南、向岸迁移。测区总体演变趋势以侵蚀为主,强度逐渐减弱,并向冲淤平衡缓慢过渡。     

黄河三角洲区域水动力条件下岸滩侵蚀研究

An ideal nature system for the study of post-depositional submarine mass changing under wave loading was selected in the intertidal platform of the subaqueous Huanghe River Delta, a delta formed during period from 1964 to 1976 as the Huanghe River discharged into the Bohai Gulf by Diaokou distributary. A road embankment constructed for petroleum recovery on the inter-tidal platform in 1995 induced the essential varieties of hydrodynamic conditions on the both sides of the road. With both sides sharing similarities in （1） initial sedimentary environment, （2） energetic wave loading, （3） differential hydrodynamic conditions in later stages, （4） enough long-range action, and （5） extreme shallow water inter-tidal platforms; the study is representative and feasible as well. Two study sites were selected on each side of the road, and a series of measurements, samplings, laboratory experiments have been carried out, including morphometry, hydrodynamic conditions, sediment properties, granularity composition, and fractal dimension calculation of the topography in the two adjacent areas. It was observed that in the outer zone, where wave loading with high magnitude prevailed, the tidal flat was bumpy and exhibited a high erosion rate and high fractal dimension. Further, the fractal dimension diminished quickly, keeping with the enlarging of calculative square size. However in the inner zone, where the hydrodynamic condition was weak, the tidal fiat was fiat and exhibited a low erosion rate and low fractal dimensions; the fractal dimension diminished with the enlarging of calcu- lative square size. The fractal dimensions in the different hydrodynamic areas equalized increasingly as the calculative square size accreted to threshold, indicating that the hydrodynamic condition plays a significant role in topography construction and submarine delta erosion process. Additionally, the later differentiation of sediment properties, granularity composition, microstructure characteristics, and mineral composition     

西北冰洋表层沉积物中生源和陆源粗组分及其沉积环境

通过中国第1至第3次北极科学考察在北冰洋西部所采集的99个表层沉积物中生源与陆源粗组分的分析,研究了该海域表层生产力的变化,有机质来源以及陆源粗颗粒物质的输入方式和影响因素.研究区域生源组分所反映的表层生产力变化与通过白令海峡进入楚科奇海的3股太平洋洋流密切相关.楚科奇海西侧高盐高营养盐的阿纳德尔流流经区域,表层生产力...     

东碇倾倒区疏浚泥悬沙输移和海床冲淤数值模拟

采用区域海洋模型ROMS(Regional Ocean Modeling System)在东碇倾倒区建立三维水动力与泥沙输移数值模型,在水动力验证的基础上模拟预测了在冬、夏季节不同背景潮流和风场作用下的疏浚泥悬沙输移规律及海床沖淤变化。结果表明:在纯潮流作用下,悬沙扩散以抛泥点为中心,呈圆对称分布,且冬季泥沙输移扩散范围比夏季大;加入风场驱动后,悬沙扩散呈下风面拖拽的椭圆形,同时水体混合加强更有利于高浓度悬沙的扩散,但对悬沙输移的作用不明显;抛泥点位置从倾倒区中心变为西北角后,其作用主要体现在冬季较高浓度区面积的减小和由于局地水槽引导而形成的向北延伸的浓度舌;在海床冲淤方面,潮流和风场的作用主要是改变地形增量较大的面积,而更改抛泥点位置则会导致地形增量最大值出现较大的差异。     

44 years hindcast of sea level in the Atlantic Coast of Europe

The sea level of Northeast Atlantic Ocean is calculated for the period between 1958 and 2001 using a state-of-the-art barotropic model with a grid size of 10′ × 15′ (long × lat). The model includes astronomic effects, considering seven components of the tide, and the meteorological effects of wind and atmospheric pressure, allowing obtaining the astronomic tide, the atmospheric residuals and the non-linear addition of both components of sea level.     

西北太平洋楚科奇海沉积物-水界面营养盐输送通量估算

陆架区沉积物间隙水的营养盐再生是水体营养盐补充的重要途径之一。楚科奇海陆架区中部沉积物间隙水中的营养盐分布,是物理和生物扰动较弱状态下的沉积物-水界面的典型分布。本文对中国第4次北极科学考察采集的4个多管短柱沉积物样品及多管样站位的上层水样进行分析,得到沉积物间隙水、上覆水以及水柱中营养盐数据。结果表明,沉积物间隙水各营养盐浓度均先随沉积深度增加而呈指数快速升高,记为Ⅰ层;然后进入沉积物再矿化作用与营养盐移出速率相互抵消的稳定变化层,营养盐浓度在该阶段基本不变,记为Ⅱ层;最后是营养盐缓慢递减层,记为Ⅲ层,由于该层有机质降解作用耗尽氧气,NO-3和PO3-4被还原细菌利用而失去氧离子。通过双层模式和Fick第一扩散定律,计算得出楚科奇海沉积物-水界面硅酸盐、磷酸盐和硝酸盐的扩散通量分别为1.660mmol/(m2·d)(以Si计量)、0.008mmol/(m2·d)(以P计量)、0.117mmol/(m2·d)(以N计量)(以R06站为例)。四个调查站位沉积物中硅酸盐的扩散通量分别为3.101mmol/(m2·d)(以Si计量,CC1站)、1.660mmol/(m2·d)(以Si计量,R06站)、1.307mmol/(m2·d)(以Si计量,C07站)、0.243mmol/(m2·d)(以Si计量,S23站),含量呈现明显的纬度分布特征。沉积物间隙水N*的分布表明,楚科奇海沉积环境具有很强的反硝化过程,沉积物脱氮作用是硝酸盐一个重要的汇。     

Diagnosis of the sediment transport in the Belgian Coastal Zone

Estimating the age of particles in marine environment constitutes an invaluable tool to understand the interactions between complex flows and sediment dynamics, particularly in highly energetic coastal areas such as the Belgian Coastal Zone (Southern Bight in the North Sea). To this end, the Constituent Age and Residence time Theory – CART – introduced by Delhez, E.J.M., Campin, J.-M., Hirst, A.C., Deleersnijder, E. [1999a. Toward a general theory of the age in ocean modelling. Ocean Modelling 1, 17–27] for passive water constituents is extended to describe the sediment dynamics. It is then used in combination with a three-dimensional coupled hydrodynamic-sediment transport model to investigate sediment processes in the Belgian Coastal Zone focusing on two complementary aspects of the sediment dynamics: the internal sediment motion and redistribution within the Belgian coast; and the horizontal transport.     

A numerical model of beach morphological evolution due to waves and currents in the vicinity of coastal structures

A numerical model was developed of beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. The model includes five sub-models for random wave transformation, surface roller development, nearshore wave-induced currents, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. The model was validated using high-quality data sets obtained during experiments with a T-head groin and a detached breakwater in the basin of the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in Vicksburg, Miss, USA. The simulations showed that the model reproduced well the wave conditions, wave-induced currents, and beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. Both salient and tombolo formation behind a T-head groin and a detached breakwater were simulated with good agreement compared to the measurements.     

Lateral downslope transport and tentative sedimentary organic carbon box model in the southern Yap Trench,western Pacific Ocean

Sediment collapse and subsequent lateral downslope migration play important roles in shaping the habitats and regulating sedimentary organic carbon(SOC) cycling in hadal trenches.In this study,three sediment cores were collected using a human-occupied vehicle across the axis of the southern Yap Trench(SYT).The total organic carbon(TOC) and total nitrogen(TN) contents,δ¹³C,radiocarbon ages,specific surface areas,and grain size compositions of sediments from three cores were measured.We...     

莱州湾西岸岸滩冲淤特征分析

利用风暴潮前后潮滩剖面的实测对比及不同时期地形图和卫星遥感影像解译分析,研究了莱州湾西岸海滩冲淤变化特征。结果表明,莱州湾西岸海滩中、高潮滩处于相对稳定状况,低潮滩呈现弱淤积的特征。岸线50多年来的总体变化特征是1986年以前岸线淤进蚀退变化较明显,1986年以来海岸线逐渐趋于稳定。分析表明,岸滩变化的原因主要为人类活动对岸滩形态的改造以及大风暴潮的影响。