精纺毛织物规范化设计探讨

叙述了精纺毛织物规范化设计的3个基本要素,即系列基础色、系列纱支及基本质地样的规范化设计,制定了系列基础色系表及色系样卡,系列化纱支及捻度表,基本质地样的DNA参数表,为精纺毛织物规范化设计与生产提供了技术指导,为降低设计和生产成本提供了快速有效的途径.     

毛织物服有性能设计探讨

本文通过相关分析及灰色优势分析，得知毛织物拉伸，剪切，弯曲，起拱变形性能各指标之间关系错综复杂，难以协调；在影响这些性能的纱线及织物结构因子中，纱线性状影响最大。因此，应针对具体品种的主要性能指标要求重点进行纱线性状设计，以获得最佳综合织物服用性能。     

精纺毛织物边字设计探讨

结合市场调研所获信息,从边字的类型、用纱选择、内容及字体字形、大小、宽度等方面对精纺毛织物边字的设计进行了探讨,并强调了创新设计的重要性。     

精纺毛织物设计参数系列化问题探讨

精纺毛织物设计参数系列化问题探讨兰州第三毛纺织厂蒙应元一、前言：我厂是全国最大的毛精纺全能综合企业之一。仅精纺呢绒有１６００多个品种，１１０００多个花色，产品形成了１６个系列，门类齐全，花色繁多。近几年，我们实施多品种、小批量、高、新、精的产品开发调...     

毛织物成衣加工性能的影响因素探讨

本文主要探讨了织物低应力机械性质与成衣加工性能的 关系，并从湿膨胀和整理方面研究，了它们对毛织物低应力主成衣加工性能的影响。     

毛织物创新设计浅谈

随着生产的发展，消费者对毛织物产品的要求越来越高，希望有更多更新颖的新产品问世。所以，切实掌握新产品设计的关键，努力开拓花色产品，提高产品质量，做到适销对路，乃是至关重要的。     

前卫设计与成衣

本文介绍了前卫设计的发展演变过程，它与成衣的关系以及在服装工业中所起的作用。     

精纺毛织物设计方法的系统化及QBASIC编程软件的应用

产品设计如何实现电脑辅助（ＣＡＤ）是许多设计人员非常关心的问题。作者通过电脑编程操作,反复摸索,得出符合实践的解决办法。认为首先应使产品设计方法系统化和规范化,然后才有可能实现电脑辅助设计。指出了现用设计方法的缺陷,同时深入分析了“以方形织物最大密度为基础的设计方法”的原理及其应用原则,为电脑辅助设计奠定了基础。同时介绍了在ＵＣＤＯＳ＼ＱＢＡＳＩＣ下编制的两个应用程序及其功能。     

粗纺产品设计时尚化探讨

阐述了粗纺产品设计时尚化，必须以市场为导向。不仅要以创新思维引领设计，更要以技术创新作支持。做到从原料、纱线、花型色彩直至成品，工艺技术的合理配置。这样才能创造出时尚的面料；才能使面料设计满足服装潮流化的需求；才能早日让粗纺产品设计步入时尚之路。     

毛织物高锰酸钾丝光防缩整理工艺

采用氧化法对羊毛织物进行丝光防缩处理。以无环境公害的高锰酸钾为氧化剂，对不同氧化条件下的丝光防缩效果进行对比试验，得出最佳的丝光防缩处理工艺条件。试验中对处理的羊毛织物的减量率、强力损失及反应过程中织物对高锰酸钾随时问变化的吸尽率指标进行了测定。结果表明，只要将高锰酸钾的用量、反应温度及溶液的pH值控制在合理的范围内，就能够达到较好的丝光防缩效果。同时，这种方法还能够避免传统的氯化法所造成的环境污染问题。     

羊毛角蛋白粗溶液的制备及用于毛织物的抗起毛起球整理

以巯基乙酸为还原剂制备角蛋白粗溶液,为了使制备的角蛋白粗溶液中含有较多大分子质量的角蛋白,使其更有利于在羊毛纤维表面成膜,以温度、时间、pH、还原剂用量设计正交实验,分析反应因素对角蛋白分子质量及羊毛分解率的影响.利用制备的角蛋白溶液处理羊毛织物,有效地减少了羊毛表面的定向摩擦效应和织物起毛起球的趋向,并且对织物没有损伤.     

粗纺花式线产品开发技术探讨

主要描述了花式粗纺面料的开发，并就其生产和工艺进行研究讨论，提出了生产过程中出现的问题，并对部分问题的解决给出了建议。     

Finite element modelling the mechanical performance of pressure garments produced from elastic weft knitted fabrics

Compression garments mainly produced from elastic knitted fabrics have attracted many attentions due to their medical care performances. Components’ characteristics of the pressure garments such as yarn and fabric structure affect significantly the pressure applied on the human body. In this paper, it is aimed to simulate the effect of yarn’s mechanical properties as well as fabric structure on mechanical performance of the compression garment. For this purpose, a precise geometrical model for fabric structure is needed by which the pressure applied to the body could be predicted. Accordingly, double jersey knitted fabrics containing elastane weft yarns were produced on an electronic flat knitting machine and the fabric tensile properties were measured in course direction. Using equations governing the fabric structural unit-cell, a real geometric model was created in a finite element software environment. Considering the linear visco-elastic properties for elastane weft yarn, stress-strain curve was extracted. The results obtained from numerical simulation were compared with the experimental data in order to validate the proposed geometrical model. The findings demonstrate a good agreement between experimental and simulation results.     

羊毛与天丝混纺呢绒产品的开发

在对天丝性能研究的基础上,开发了毛/天丝立绒女式大衣呢和短顺毛女式大衣呢2种毛/天丝粗梳呢绒产品,探讨了产品的纺纱、织造、染整等工艺,并对产品性能进行了分析.研究表明,羊毛、天丝纤维混纺粗梳呢绒加工工艺可行,产品性能优良,所生产的产品绒毛丰满均匀,富有弹性,膘光足,高档感强,是理想的女装大衣面料.     

羊毛珍珠绒系列产品的设计与开发

主要介绍了羊毛珍珠绒系列产品的设计、开发方法和思路，突出了原料交叉、组织结构变化和工艺的融合，赋予了产品珍珠般的花型、光泽及高贵感。     

轻薄型毛织物生产

综述了目前生产轻薄型毛织物的3种方法:高级细支毛生产,单经单纬织造,以及水溶性纤维伴纺生产。详细介绍了每种方法的原理、优缺点,已取得的成果及发展方向,为目前国内市场上生产轻薄型毛织物指明了方向。高级细支毛生产能提高羊毛的使用价值,但成本高,性能变化大;单经单纬织造的方法对原料要求低、成本低,但织造困难,对浆料、设备也有一定的要求;利用水溶性纤维伴纺生产可以降低原料成本,提高织造效率,提升织物档次,是纺织企业开发轻薄型新品种的重要途径之一。     

Comparison of compression properties of stretchable knitted fabrics and bi-stretch woven fabrics for compression garments

Stretchable fabrics have diverse applications ranging from casual apparel to performance sportswear and compression therapy. Compression therapy is the universally accepted treatment for the management of hypertrophic scarring after severe burns. Mostly stretchable knitted fabrics are used in compression therapy; but in the recent past, some studies have also been found on bi-stretch woven fabrics being used as compression garments as they also have been found quite effective in the treatment of edema. Therefore, the objective of the present study is to compare the compression properties of stretchable knitted and bi-stretch woven fabrics for compression garments. For this purpose, four woven structures and four knitted structures were produced having same areal density and their compression, comfort and mechanical properties were compared before and after 5, 10 and 15 washes. The four knitted structures used were single jersey, single locaste, plain pique and honeycomb, whereas the four woven structures produced were 1/1 plain, 2/1 twill, 3/1 twill and 4/1 twill. The compression properties of the produced samples were tested by using kikuhime pressure sensor and it was found that bi-stretch woven fabrics possessed better compression properties before and after washes and retain their durability after repeated use, whereas knitted stretchable fabrics lost their compression ability after repeated use and the required sub-garment pressure of the knitted structures after 15 washes was almost half that of woven bi-stretch fabrics.     

灵达毛衫工艺辅助设计系统的设计思想

介绍了毛衫工艺软件设计中的关键问题和灵达毛衫工艺软件的解决方法。