Gravity-capillary waves in the presence of constant vorticity

Periodic and solitary gravity-capillary waves propagating at a constant velocity at the surface of a fluid of finite depth are considered. The vorticity in the fluid is assumed to be constant. Analytical solutions are presented for waves of small amplitude. For waves of large amplitude, numerical solutions are computed by boundary integral equation methods. The results unify previous findings for irrotational gravity capillary waves and gravity waves with constant vorticity. In particular solitary waves with oscillatory tails and branches of solutions which exist only for waves of large amplitude are found.     

Formation of solitary waves on gas-sheared liquid layers

The origin of solitary waves on gas-liquid sheared layers is studied by comparing the behavior of the wave field at sufficiently low liquid Reynolds number, R_L, where solitary waves are observed to form, to measurements at higher R_L where solitary waves do not occur. Observations of the wave field with high-speed video imaging suggest that solitary waves, which appear as a secondary transition of the stratified gas-liquid interface, emanate from existing dominant waves, but that not all dominant waves are transformed. From measurements of interface tracings it is found that for low R_L, waves which have amplitude/substrate depth (a/h) ratios of 0.5–1 occur while for higher R_L, no such waves are observed. A comparison of amplitude/wavelength ratios shows no distinction for different R_L. Consequently, it is conjectured that solitary waves originate from waves with sufficiently large a/h ratios; this change of form being similar to wave breaking. The dimensionless wavenumber is found to be smaller at low R_L, where solitary waves are observed. This suggests that perhaps, larger precursor (to solitary wave) waves are possible because the degree of dispersion, which acts to break waves into separate modes, is lower.     

Head-on collision between two mKdV solitary waves in a two-layer fluid system

In this paper, based on the equations presented in [2], the head-on collision between two solitary waves described by the modified KdV equation (the mKdV equation, for short) is investigated by using the reductive perturbation method combined with the PLK method. These waves propagate at the interface of a two-fluid system, in which the density ratio of the two fluids equals the square of the depth ratio of the fluids. The second order perturbation solution is obtained. It is found that in the case of disregarding the nonuniform phase shift, the solitary waves preserve their original profiles after collision, which agrees with Fornberg and Whitham's numerical result of overtaking collision161 whereas after considering the nonuniform phase shift, the wave profiles may deform after collision.     

二流体系统中界面孤立波的分裂

本文讨论了二流体系统界面上内孤立波的分裂,发现上下层流体密度比对分裂成两个内孤立波的条件没有影响,此时只要孤立波从较深的流体运动到较浅的流体就会发生分裂,但分裂成二个以上孤立波的条件受密度比和上游上下层流体厚度比的影响。     

二流体系统中界面孤立波的分裂

本文讨论了二流体系统界面上内孤立波的分裂,发现上下层流体密度比对分裂成两个内孤立波的条件没有影响,此时只要孤立波从较深的流体运动到较浅的流体就会发生分裂,但分裂成二个以上孤立波的条件受密度比和上游上下层流体厚度比的影响。     

Exact Solitary Water Waves with Vorticity

The solitary water wave problem is to find steady free surface waves which approach a constant level of depth in the far field. The main result is the existence of a family of exact solitary waves of small amplitude for an arbitrary vorticity. Each solution has a supercritical parameter value and decays exponentially at infinity. The proof is based on a generalized implicit function theorem of the Nash–Moser type. The first approximation to the surface profile is given by the “KdV” equation. With a supercritical value of the surface tension coefficient, a family of small amplitude solitary waves of depression with subcritical parameter values is constructed for an arbitrary vorticity.     

Depth‐integrated nonhydrostatic free‐surface flow modeling using weighted‐averaged equations

In this study, a depth‐integrated nonhydrostatic flow model is developed using the method of weighted residuals. Using a unit weighting function, depth‐integrated Reynolds‐averaged Navier‐Stokes equations are obtained. Prescribing polynomial variations for the field variables in the vertical direction, a set of perturbation parameters remains undetermined. The model is closed generating a set of weighted‐averaged equations using a suitable weighting function. The resulting depth‐integrated nonhydrostatic model is solved with a semi‐implicit finite‐volume finite‐difference scheme. The explicit part of the model is a Godunov‐type finite‐volume scheme that uses the Harten‐Lax‐van Leer‐contact wave approximate Riemann solver to determine the nonhydrostatic depth‐averaged velocity field. The implicit part of the model is solved using a Newton‐Raphson algorithm to incorporate the effects of the pressure field in the solution. The model is applied with good results to a set of problems of coastal and river engineering, including steady flow over fixed bedforms, solitary wave propagation, solitary wave run‐up, linear frequency dispersion, propagation of sinusoidal waves over a submerged bar, and dam‐break flood waves.     

Behavior of perturbations of solitary and periodic waves on the surface of a heavy liquid

In [1] a system of equations was obtained for the case of a potential motion of an ideal incompressible homogeneous fluid; the system described the propagation of a train of waves in a medium with slowly varying properties, the motion in the train being characterized by a wave vector and a frequency. A solitary wave is a particular case of a wave train in which the length of the waves in the train is large. In [2, 3] a quasilinear system of partial differential equations was obtained which described two-dimensional and three-dimensional motion of a solitary wave in a layer of liquid of variable depth. It follows from this system that if the unperturbed state of the liquid is the quiescent state, then some integral quantity (the average wave energy [2–4]), referred to an element of the front, is preserved during the course of the motion. This fact is also valid for a train of waves, and can be demonstrated to be so upon applying the formalism of [1] to a Lagrangian similar to that used in [2]. In the present paper we obtain, for the case of a layer of liquid of constant depth, a solution in the form of simple waves for a system, equivalent to the system obtained in [3], describing the motion of a solitary wave and also the motion of a train of waves. We show that it is possible to have tilting of simple waves, leading in the case considered here to the formation of corner points on the wave front. We consider several examples of initial perturbations, and we obtain their asymptotics as t→∞. We make our presentation for the solitary wave case; however, in view of our statement above, the results automatically carry over to the case of a train of waves.     

Solitary waves in media with dispersion and dissipation (a review)

The latest results relating to the theory of nonlinear waves in dispersive and dissipative media are reviewed. Attention is concentrated on small-amplitude solitary waves and, in particular, on the classification of types of solitary waves, their conditions of existence, the evolution of local perturbations associated with the presence of solitary waves of various types, and problems of the existence of nonlinear waves localized with respect to a particular direction as the space dimension increases (spontaneous dimension breaking). As examples of dispersive and dissipative media admitting plane solitary waves of various types, we consider a cold collisionless plasma, an ideal incompressible fluid of finite depth beneath an elastic plate and with surface tension, and a fluid in a rapidly oscillating rectangular vessel (Faraday resonance). Examples of spontaneous dimension breaking are considered for the generalized Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation. Moscow. Translated from Izvestiya Rossiiskoi Akademii Nauk, Mekhanika Zhidkosti i Gaza, No. 2, pp. 3–27. March–April, 2000. The work was carried out with financial support from the Russian Foundation for Basic Research (project No. 99-0101150).     

Numerical simulation of solitary waves overtopping on a sloping sea dike using a particle method

Sea dikes, as a commonly used type of coastal protection structures, are often attacked or damaged by violent waves overtopping under tsunamis and storm surges. In this study, the behavior of solitary waves traveling on a sloping sea dike is simulated, and solitary wave overtopping characteristics are analyzed using a complete Lagrangian numerical method, the moving particle semi-implicit (MPS) method. To better describe the complicated fluid motions during the wave overtopping process, the original MPS method is modified by introducing a new free surface detection method, i.e., the area filling rate identification method, and a modified gradient operator to provide higher precision. Meanwhile, the approximation method for sloping boundaries in particle methods is enhanced, and a smooth slope approximation method is proposed and recommended. To verify the improved MPS method, a solitary wave traveling over a steep sloping bed is studied. The entire solitary wave run-up and run-down processes and exquisite water movements are reproduced well by the present method, and are consistent with the corresponding experimental results. Subsequently, the improved MPS method is applied to investigate the overtopping process of a single solitary wave over a sloping sea dike. The results show that the hydraulic jump phenomenon is also possible to occur during the run-down motion of the solitary wave overtopping. Finally, the characteristics of the propagation and overtopping of two successive solitary waves on a sloping sea dike are discussed. The result manifests that the interaction between adjacent solitary waves affects wave overtopping patterns and overtopping velocities.     

INTERNAL SOLITARY WAVE LOADS EXPERIMENTS AND ITS THEORETICAL MODEL FOR A CYLINDRICAL STRUCTURE

在大型重力式密度分层水槽中, 对内孤立波与圆柱型结构的相互作用特性开展了系列实验. 基于两层流体中 内孤立波的KdV,eKdV和MCC理论, 建立了圆柱型结构内孤立波载荷的理论预报模型, 给出了该载荷理论预报模型中3类内孤立波理论的适用性条件.研究表明, 圆柱型结构内孤立波水平载荷包括水平Froude-Krylov力、附加质量力和拖曳力3个部分, 可以由Morison公式计算, 而内孤立波垂向载荷主要为垂向Froude-Krylov力, 可以由内孤立波诱导动压力计算.系列实验结果表明, 附加质量系数可以取为常数1.0, 拖曳力系数与内孤立波诱导速度场的雷诺数之间为指数函数关系, 而且基于理论预报模型的数值结果与系列实验结果吻合.     

An intermediate wavelength, weakly nonlinear theory for the evolution of capillary gravity waves

A new nonlinear evolution equation is derived for surface solitary waves propagating on a liquid-air interface where the wave motion is induced by a harmonic forcing. Instead of the traditional approach involving a base state of the long wave limit, a base state of harmonic waves is assumed for the perturbation analysis. This approach is considered to be more appropriate for channels of length just a few multiples of the depth. The dispersion relation found approaches the classical long wave limit. The weakly nonlinear dispersive waves satisfy a KdV-like nonlinear evolution equation with steeper nonlinearity.     

Propagation of solitary waves over underwater ridges

The propagation of solitary waves is investigated on the basis of a nonlinear system of equations of hyperbolic type describing the motion of the crest of a solitary wave over the surface of a liquid of variable depth [1]. The existence of solutions with discontinuities, the boundary conditions at which are introduced on the basis of [2, 3], is assumed. In the case of an infinite cylindrical ridge both solitary and periodic captured waves are found. Depending upon the height of the ridge and the parameters of the wave, the encounter between a uniform wave and a semi-infinite ridge yields qualitatively different solutions — continuous and discontinuous, where the primary wave is broken down by the ridge into several solitary waves. The amplitude of the wave may either increase or decrease over the ridge.Translated from Izvestiya Akademii Nauk SSSR, Mekhanika Zhidkosti i Gaza, No. 1, pp. 36–93, January–February, 1985.The author is grateful to A. G. Kulikovskii and A. A. Barmin for their interest in his work, useful discussions and valuable comments offered during the preparation of the article for the press.     

Spectral method for solving the equal width equation based on Chebyshev polynomials

A spectral solution of the equal width (EW) equation based on the collocation method using Chebyshev polynomials as a basis for the approximate solution has been studied. Test problems, including the migration of a single solitary wave with different amplitudes are used to validate this algorithm which is found to be accurate and efficient. The three invariants of the motion are evaluated to determine the conservation properties of the algorithm. The interaction of two solitary waves is seen to cause the creation of a source for solitary waves. Usually these are of small magnitude, but when the amplitudes of the two interacting waves are opposite, the source produces trains of solitary waves whose amplitudes are of the same order as those of the initial waves. The three invariants of the motion of the interaction of the three positive solitary waves are computed to determine the conservation properties of the system. The temporal evaluation of a Maxwellian initial pulse is then studied. Comparisons are made with the most recent results both for the error norms and the invariant values.     

Bilinear form and soliton interactions for the modified Kadomtsev–Petviashvili equation in fluid dynamics and plasma physics

In this paper, we investigate the modified Kadomtsev–Petviashvili (mKP) equation for the nonlinear waves in fluid dynamics and plasma physics. By virtue of the rational transformation and auxiliary function, new bilinear form for the mKP equation is constructed, which is different from those in previous literatures. Based on the bilinear form, one- and two-soliton solutions are obtained with the Hirota method and symbolic computation. Propagation and interactions of shock and solitary waves are investigated analytically and graphically. Parametric conditions for the existence of the shock, elevation solitary, and depression solitary waves are given. From the two-soliton solutions, we find that the (i) parallel elastic interactions can exist between the (a) shock and solitary waves, and (b) two elevation/depression solitary waves; (ii) oblique elastic interactions can exist between the (a) shock and solitary waves, and (b) two solitary waves; (iii) oblique inelastic interactions can exist between the (a) two shock waves, (b) two elevation/depression solitary waves, and (c) shock and solitary waves.     

The evolution of a solitary wave in a nonhomogeneous medium

Using the example of surface waves in a heavy liquid, the article discusses the propagation of a solitary wave in a nonhomogeneous medium. Ananalysis is made of processes of the decomposition of a wave into solitary waves, as a function of differences in the depth.Translated from Zhurnal Prikladnoi Mekhaniki i Tekhnicheskoi Fiziki, No. 6, pp. 80–85, November–December, 1971.The author thanks A. V. Gaponov, A. G. Litvak, and L. A. Ostrovskii for their evaluation of the results of the work.     

Large-amplitude internal solitary waves in a two-fluid modelOndes solitaires internes de grande amplitude dans un modèle à deux fluides

We compute solitary wave solutions of a Hamiltonian model for large-amplitude long internal waves in a two-layer stratification. Computations are performed for values of the density and depth ratios close to oceanic conditions, and comparisons are made with solutions of both weakly and fully nonlinear models. It is shown that characteristic features of highly nonlinear solitary waves such as broadening are reproduced well by the present model. To cite this article: Ph. Guyenne, C. R. Mecanique 334 (2006).     

细观结构固体层中孤立波的传播及相互作用特性

利用直接微扰方法.确定了孤立波的放大或衰减与孤立波的初始幅度以及介质的结构参数之间的关系.然后利用线性化技术构造出一种二阶精度的稳定差分格式,并对孤立波在细观结构固体层中传播特性进行了数值模拟,特别对细观结构固体层中传播的不同幅度的孤立波的相互作用进行了详细的数值模拟,从而得到在适当条件下细观结构固体层中孤立波传播时即可以衰减、放大又可以稳定传播,且相互作用不影响这种传播特性.     

The Benjamin–Lighthill Conjecture for Steady Water Waves (revisited)

The two-dimensional nonlinear problem of steady gravity waves on water of finite depth is considered. The Benjamin–Lighthill conjecture is proved for these waves provided Bernoulli’s constant attains near-critical values. In fact this is a consequence of the following more general results. If Bernoulli’s constant is near-critical, then all corresponding waves have sufficiently small heights and slopes. Moreover, for every near-critical value of Bernoulli’s constant, there exist only the following waves: a solitary wave and the family of Stokes waves having their crests strictly below the crest of this solitary wave; this family is parametrised by wave heights which increase from zero to the height of the solitary wave. All these waves are unique up to horizontal translations. Most of these results were proved in our previous paper (Kozlov and Kuznetsov in Arch Rational Mech Anal 197, 433–488, 2010), in which it was supposed that wave slopes are bounded a priori. Here we show that the latter condition is superfluous by proving the following theorem. If any steady wave has the free-surface profile of a sufficiently small height, then the slope of this wave is also small.     

A kind of new algebraic Rossby solitary waves generated by periodic external source

In the article, by employing multiple-scale, perturbation method, a new model is derived to describe the algebraic Rossby solitary waves generated by periodic external source in stratified fluid. The local conservation laws and analytic solutions of the model are obtained, and the breakup properties are discussed. By numeric simulation, some problems on the generation and evolution of the algebraic solitary waves under the influence of periodic external source are theoretically investigated. The results show that besides the solitary waves, an additional harmonic wave appears in the region of the external source forcing. Furthermore, the periodic variation of the external source forcing can prevent solitary waves from breaking. Meanwhile, the detuning parameter has an important effect on the breakup of the algebraic Rossby solitary waves.