NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF SOLITARY WAVE RUN-UP AND OVER-TOPPING USING BOUSSINESQ-TYPE MODEL

In this article,the use of a high-order Boussinesq-type model and sets of laboratory experiments in a large scale flume of breaking solitary waves climbing up slopes with two inclinations are presented to study the shoreline behavior of breaking and non-breaking solitary waves on plane slopes.The scale effect on run-up height is briefly discussed.The model simulation capability is well validated against the available laboratory data and present experiments.Then,serial numerical tests are conducted to study the shoreline motion correlated with the effects of beach slope and wave nonlinearity for breaking and non-breaking waves.The empirical formula proposed by Hsiao et al.for predicting the maximum run-up height of a breaking solitary wave on plane slopes with a wide range of slope inclinations is confirmed to be cautious.Furthermore,solitary waves impacting and overtopping an impermeable sloping seawall at various water depths are investigated.Laboratory data of run-up height,shoreline motion,free surface elevation and overtopping discharge are presented.Comparisons of run-up,run-down,shoreline trajectory and wave overtopping discharge are made.A fairly good agreement is seen between numerical results and experimental data.It elucidates that the present depth-integrated model can be used as an efficient tool for predicting a wide spectrum of coastal problems.     

Effects of turbulence models on numerical simulations of wave breaking and run-up on a mild slope beach

The performance of the standard k−ε model, the high-Reynolds-number k−ω model, the 1-equation k model, and the non-friction Euler model is examined against the case of wave run-up on a mild slope. A numerical model based on N-S equations and Volume Of Fluids (VOF) method is employed. Comparisons of elevation, velocity and shear stress are made among the four turbulence models against experimental data of wave run-up on a mild slope beach. It is found that before wave breaking on the slope, the outputs of the four different turbulence models agree reasonably well with each other. This suggests that during the run-up process the turbulence effect is negligible before wave breaking. Moreover, in the wave breaking zone, both the standard k−ε model and the high-Reynolds-number k−ω model predict the mean velocity field quite well, but generally under-predict the velocity and turbulent kinetic energy using wall functions on the solid slope surface.

     

内河航道中船行波在岸坡爬高的数值模拟

该文基于RANS方程、RNG k-ε湍流模型建立数值波浪水池,用VOF法追踪自由面的位置,并模拟了内河航道中船行波的生成、传播、爬高和岸壁反射过程,且与典型断面航道中船行波在岸坡最大爬高和回落的现场测量值进行了比较,验证了数值模型的有效性。通过对航道中船行波进行数值模拟,获得了船行波的波形及其在岸坡上爬高与回落的最大值。分析了船舶吃水、航速和航道岸坡倾角对特征波高以及最大爬高与回落的影响。最后建立了计算船行波特征波高、爬高和回落的经验公式。     

数值模拟波浪翻越直立方柱

本文应用ＶＯＦ方法研究了孤立波翻越直立方柱流动的全过程。用人工压缩法和差分法求解二维Ｎａｖｉｅｒ－Ｓｔｏｋｅｓ方程，用施主－受主法求解流体体积函数控制方程。通过数值计算得到了孤立波翻越直立方柱的流场和压力值，并成功地模拟出波浪涌顶，水柱喷射，冲击和界面破碎的过程。     

华南沿海防浪林带种植宽度对消浪效果影响的试验研究

相关研究表明:植物带的宽度是影响防浪林消浪效果的主要因素。为此,本文依据华南沿海的实际情况对防浪林树种、波要素、滩地坡度等进行了选取,精细模拟了防浪林带不同宽度时波浪对海堤的冲击及爬高情况,深入分析了破碎波条件下防浪林带宽度对消浪护堤效果的影响,研究成果可供类似人工防浪林设计参考。     

Ship bow waves

The bow wave generated by a ship hull that advances at constant speed in calm water is considered. The bow wave only depends on the shape of the ship bow (not on the hull geometry aft of the bow wave). This basic property makes it possible to determine the bow waves generated by a canonical family of ship bows defined in terms of relatively few parameters. Fast ships with fine bows generate overturning bow waves that consist of detached thin sheets of water, which are mostly steady until they hit the main free surface and undergo turbulent breaking up and diffusion. However, slow ships with blunt bows create highly unsteady and turbulent breaking bow waves. These two alternative flow regimes are due to a nonlinear constraint related to the Bernoulli relation at the free surface. Recent results about the overturning and breaking bow wave regimes, and the boundary that divides these two basic flow regimes, are reviewed. Questions and conjectures about the energy of breaking ship bow waves, and free-surface effects on flow circulation, are also noted.     

PROPAGATION AND BREAKING OF WAVES ON SLOPING BEACH

In this paper the propagation and breaking of the solitary wave,the sinusoidalwave and the second Stokes wave on a slope of 1/30 are discussed based upon the TUMMACmethod,and the velocity fields of breaking waves on the slope are obtained by using the tracingmethod.The.numerical results for wave deformation are in good agreement with experimentaldata,and the breaker indexes depending on the kinetic criterion agree approximately with previ-ous results.Furthermore,compared with the experimental results measured by Iwagaki and bythe authors,the tendency of velocity distribution of breaking waves computed by this numericalmethod is also satisfactory.     

斜坡堤栅栏板护面波浪爬高数值模拟

以海堤工程中常用的栅栏板护面为例,采用源函数造波法研究了栅栏板糙率对波浪爬高的影响。结果表明:在线性规则波作用下,波浪爬高衰减系数随着斜坡堤坡面糙率的增大而减小,当糙率为0.40～0.50时,波浪爬高衰减系数在0.6～0.7之间变化;当糙率大于0.50时,波浪爬高衰减系数随着斜坡堤坡度的变缓有增大的趋势。当波陡较小时,在相同糙率条件下,斜坡堤坡度越缓,爬高衰减系数越小;波陡较大时,随着斜坡堤坡度的变缓,波浪爬高衰减系数先增后减。     

倾斜底坡上波浪的传播与破碎

本文根据TUMMAC方法探讨了孤立波、微幅波和二阶Stokes波在1/30底坡上的传播与破碎,并采用示踪法测得了相同底坡上濒临破碎波的速度场。与前人的实验结果相比较表明,计算所得的波浪外形变化是一致的,依据运动学标准所得的各项破碎指标也大致相同;与岩垣及本文实验结果比较表明,速度的分布趋势也是一致的。     

非淹没刚性植被影响下孤立波在岸滩上的爬高

为探究海岸刚性植被对海啸波的削弱效应,通过物理模型试验和数值模拟研究了孤立波与不同坡度岸滩上非淹没刚性植被的相互作用问题。物理模型试验在波浪槽中进行,测试了不同的入射波波高、植被密度和岸滩坡度对孤立波爬高的影响,并运用物理模型试验数据校核改进后的Boussinesq方程,得到植被的拖曳力系数。结果表明:拖曳力系数随植被密度的增大而增大,随坡度增大而减小;植被后的无量纲透射波高和无量纲岸滩爬高随着无量纲的入射波高的增大而减小,随着植被密度的增大而减小;当岸滩坡度增大时,无量纲透射波高增大而无量纲爬高并无显著差异。最后根据回归分析得出了岸滩爬高与相对入射波高、植被密度和岸滩坡度的幂函数型经验关系式。     

基于RANS方程的海堤越浪数值模拟

基于FLUENT商业化软件,以RANS方程为控制方程,基于有限体积法,采用k-epsilon湍流模型,运用一种“解析松弛”方法实现了适用于VOF方法的数值源造波技术。在该数值波浪水槽中对规则波在不可渗透简单斜坡堤上越浪过程进行了数值模拟,将越浪量计算值同物理实验结果及基于非线性浅水方程的数值结果进行了比对。结果表明：该数值模型能够较好地复演海堤越浪过程,同基于非线性浅水方程的数值结果相比,能更有效地模拟含有强烈卷吸、射流和破碎的海堤越浪问题。     

平面斜坡小波高各向破波压力试验研究

与海洋相比,水库、湖泊等的风成浪波高一般较小。论文分析了现有计算平面斜坡破波压力方法的适用性,通过概化模型试验和数值分析,提出了平面斜坡在小波高波浪作用下的法向破波压力计算公式,公式结构简单,计算方便。并获得波浪冲击点各向破波压力基本相同、可遵循静水质点受压原则的结论。     

NUMERICAL SIMULATIONS OF WATER WAVE DYNAMICS BASED ON SPH METHODS

A numerical model was established for simulating water wave dynamic problems by adopting the Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) methods of iterative solution of Poisson's equation for pressure field, and meanwhile the sub-grid turbulence model was applied in the simulation so as to more accurately describe the turbulence characteristics at the time of wave breaking. In this article, simulation of the problem of the dam collapsing verifies the compoting accuracy of this method, and its results can be identical with the results of VOF method and the experimental results by comparison. Numerical simulations of the course of solitary wave and cnoidal wave run-up breaking on beaches were conducted, and the results are basically consistent with experimental results. This indicates that the SPH method is effective for the numerical simulation of the complex problems of water wave dynamics.     

水库滑坡涌浪爬坡特征试验研究

由滑坡引起的涌浪灾害不仅严重威胁航运安全,还会冲毁码头、大坝等水工建筑物并造成沿岸居民生命财产的损失。采用物理模型试验的方法对散粒体滑坡涌浪的爬坡特性开展了研究。试验结果表明：影响涌浪爬坡高度的主要因素有滑坡入水速度、滑坡体规模、滑动面倾角、水深、传播距离和爬坡角度等;当涌浪远场传播形态类似椭圆余弦波或孤立波时,涌浪爬坡高度较高,岸坡处水流紊动剧烈,涌浪对岸坡的破坏能力也最强。根据试验结果还建立了近岸坡处涌浪最大波幅计算模型,并结合经典波浪爬坡经验公式推导出了新滑坡涌浪爬坡高度计算公式。以长江新滩滑坡为例,验证了新涌浪爬坡高度计算公式的精度。研究结果能为实际工程中可能存在的滑坡涌浪爬坡灾害范围预测和涌浪避险方案制定等提供一定参考。     

斜向流作用下波浪的变形及破碎

当波浪自无流区斜向进入有流区后，不仅波要素发生变化，波浪传播方向也发生变化，即产生折射．作者曾根据线性波浪理论计算了波浪折射后的波要素变化情况。作者也曾通过实验分析和理论计算对正向流作用下波浪的变形及破碎问题进行过详细的研究．为了进一步研究波浪折射对变形及破碎的影响，本文计算和分析了外向流作用下缓坡上规则波浪和不规则波浪的变形及破碎过程，取得了以下两方面的成果：１）正向流作用下波浪的破碎指标及研究方法可以应用于斜向流情况；２）波浪的折射在一般情况下使波高降低，从而使破碎点向浅水方向推移。     

AN EXPERIMENTAL OBSERVATION OF A SOLITARY WAVE IMPINGE-MENT,RUN-UP AND OVERTOPPING ON A SEAWALL

A sequence of laboratory experiments using solitary waves was performed to model the effect of leading form of three types of tsunamis(a bore,an impinging wave and an overtopping wave)on a seawall on a sloping beach.The wave evolution process,impinging pressure along the seawall surface,total overtopping discharge behind the seawall and the maximum run-up height on the rear slope were measured and compared.Laboratory data were employed to re-examine relevant empirical formulae in the literature.The effect of the presence of the seawall in reducing maximum run-up height using the present setup was briefly discussed.The present data can be used for calibrating numerical and mathematical models.     

Numerical simulation of three-dimensional breaking waves and its interaction with a vertical circular cylinder

Wave breaking plays an important role in wave-structure interaction. A novel control volume finite element method with adaptive unstructured meshes is employed here to study 3-D breaking waves. The numerical framework consists of a "volume of fluid" type method for the interface capturing and adaptive unstructured meshes to improve computational efficiency. The numerical model is validated against experimental measurements of breaking wave over a sloping beach and is then used to study the breaking wave impact on a vertical circular cylinder on a slope. Detailed complex interfacial structures during wave impact, such as plunging jet formation and splash-up are captured in the simulation, demonstrating the capability of the present method.     

EXPERIMENTAL INVESTIGATION ON WAVE RUN-UP CHARACTERISTICS ALONG COLUMNS AND AIR GAP RESPONSE OF SEMI-SUBMERSIBLE PLATFORM

This article mainly concentrates on a large-volume drilling semi-submersible platform,aiming to reveal wave run-up characteristics along square columns and give the relationship between air gap distributions and wave parameters.The tests with fixed model were conducted firstly on its encountering a series of monochromatic waves.A wide range of wave slope (H /L) were selected to investigate the air gap response in detail.As can be seen,larger wave steepness will generally cause smaller air gap in the same wave period,which indicates nonlinear effects of incoming wave can amplify wave elevation.Model tests with mooring condition were also conducted in the same wave conditions.As was expected,the maximum relative wave elevation reduces obviously compared with the fixed one.However,wave shape close to columns show higher harmonic characteristics due to interaction between waves and the columns of semi-submersible platform.Meaningful conclusions from the model tests are drawn in this article,which is helpful in air gap design of floating offshore platform to a certain extent.In addition,the experimental results will provide an important reference for further research on validation and update of theoretical models of air gap.     

Application of artificial neural network to calculation of solitary wave run-up

The prediction of solitary wave run-up has important practical significance in coastal and ocean engineering,but the calculation precision is limited in the existing models.For improving the calculation precision,a solitary wave run-up calculation model was established based on artificial neural networks in this study A back-propagation(BP)network with one hidden layer was adopted and modified with the additional momentum method and the auto-adjusting learning factor.The model was applied to calculation of solitary wave run-up.The correlation coefficients between the neural network model results and the experimental values was 0.9965.By comparison with the correlation coefficient of 0.9635,between the Synolakis formula calculation results and the experimental values,it is concluded that the neural network model is an effective method for calculation and analysis of solitary wave run-up.     

Run-up of non-breaking double solitary waves with equal wave heights on a plane beach

The evolution and run-up of double solitary waves on a plane beach were studied numerically using the nonlinear shallow water equations(NSWEs) and the Godunov scheme. The numerical model was validated through comparing the present numerical results with analytical solutions and laboratory measurements available for propagation and run-up of single solitary wave. Two successive solitary waves with equal wave heights and variable separation distance of two crests were used as the incoming wave on the open boundary at the toe of a slope beach. The run-ups of the first wave and the second wave with different separation distances were investigated. It is found that the run-up of the first wave does not change with the separation distance and the run-up of the second wave is affected slightly by the separation distance when the separation distance is gradually shortening. The ratio of the maximum run-up of the second wave to one of the first wave is related to the separation distance as well as wave height and slope. The run-ups of double solitary waves were compared with the linearly superposed results of two individual solitary-wave run-ups. The comparison reveals that linear superposition gives reasonable prediction when the separation distance is large, but it may overestimate the actual run-up when two waves are close.