多重集聚纺纱结构成形机制及其针织物性能

为解决多毛羽传统环锭纱针织困难,而光洁的常规集聚纺纱线织物手感硬的技术难题,建立串联半开放式多重集聚纺纱方法,分析多重集聚纺纱机制和结构成形特征。理论分析结果表明,多重集聚纺纱线具有外紧而内柔的结构特征。基于理论解析,在相同工艺条件下,分别采用传统环锭、常规集聚和多重集聚纱线制成针织面料,对比分析了各针织物压缩回弹、透气、抗起毛起球、耐磨、染色等性能。测试结果表明：与传统环锭纱相比,多重集聚纱线针织物耐磨、透气性、抗起毛起球性改善;与常规集聚纱线相比,多重集聚纱线针织物悬垂性、压缩回弹性和染色性能明显提高。     

Physical properties of ring,compact, and air vortex yarns made of PTT/wool/modal and wearing comfort of their knitted fabrics for high emotional garments

This study examined the physical properties of PTT/wool/modal yarns according to the yarn structure and the wearing comfort of their knitted fabrics for high emotional garments. For this purpose, the air-vortex, compact, and ring yarns and their knitted fabrics were prepared to analyze the wear comfort according to the yarn structure and the possibility of applications of the PTT/wool/modal blend fibers to air-vortex yarn. The wicking and drying rates of the air-vortex yarn knitted fabrics were superior to those of the ring and compact yarns fabrics, and the heat-keeping capability of the air-vortex yarn knitted fabric was higher than those of the ring and compact yarns fabrics due to the low thermal conductivity and maximum heat flow rate. In addition, the pilling of the air-vortex yarn knitted fabric was less than those of the ring and compact ones due to the air-vortex yarn structure with parallel fibers in the core part and the periodical and fasciated twists on the sheath part of the yarns. The tactile hand of the air-vortex yarn knitted fabric was harsher than those of the ring and compact yarns knitted fabrics because of the low extensibility and compressibility, and the high bending and shear rigidities.     

The effect of core-sheath proportion on the characteristics of fabrics produced with hollow yarns: part II comfort and mechanical properties

The study aims to investigate the effect of hollow yarn structure and the sheath-core proportion of hollow yarns on the permeability properties of the knitted fabrics. In order to accomplish this, core yarns in the yarn count of 59 tex were produced by using cotton, viscose, wool, and polyester fibers in the sheath and different ratios of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) in the core. After completion of yarn production on ring spinning frame, the yarns in the form of packages were used to produce plain knitted fabrics. Fabrics were then divided into two groups, one of which was washed during a time period in order to remove PVA from the core to obtain hollow yarn structure. Air and water permeability, and wicking properties of the knitted fabrics were measured before and after washing processes. Mechanical properties such as pilling and bursting strength of the fabrics were also examined. The results show that washing process and PVA proportion used to produce core spun yarns have a significant effect on the permeability and mechanical properties of the fabrics.     

A study on thermal properties of single-jersey knitted fabrics produced from ring and compact folded yarns

This paper presents a study on the thermal properties of single-jersey knitted fabrics manufactured using ring, compact and ring/compact folded yarns. The variations in thermal properties depending on the yarn twist and traveller weight of folded yarn single-jersey knits were discussed. It was found that the thermal resistance of knitted fabrics generally increases as the traveller weight decreases, and also water vapour permeability reduces as the traveller weight decreases. The water vapour permeability and air permeability of knitted fabrics increase as the twist increases. The thermal conductivity of knitted fabrics decreases as the twist increases. The air permeability and water vapour permeability values were higher for compact folded yarn fabrics as compared to those values of ring and ring/compact folded yarn fabrics. It is observed that yarn twist and traveller weight have affected different thermal properties of single-jersey folded yarn fabrics.     

Impact of structural variations in hollow yarn on heat and moisture transport properties of fabrics

The use of hollow/microporous yarns plays an important role in enhancing the thermo‐physiological comfort properties of fabrics. Depending on structural variations in hollow yarn, heat and moisture regulation behaviours of fabrics can be affected significantly. In this study, three types of hollow cotton yarn fabrics, produced by introducing polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) filament in the core, PVA staple fibres in the blend and PVA filament in doubling with cotton spun yarn, are studied. All three types of pre‐hollow yarns and reference yarns are made with a variation in spinning technique (single roving/double roving) to prepare eight single jersey knitted fabrics. The hollow/microporous structure of the yarn is created by dissolving the PVA fibres using hot washing of the fabrics. On overall evaluation of the fabric’s thermo‐physiological comfort properties, the doubled hollow yarn fabrics are found to be better than other fabrics. In general, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity, wicking and drying properties of all types of hollow yarn fabrics increase after repeated laundering, while air permeability, water vapour permeability and water absorbency of hollow yarn fabrics mostly decrease. In contrast with fabrics made from yarn produced through single roving technique, use of double roving technique only improves fabric water vapour permeability.     

Thermophysiological comfort and performance properties of knitted fabrics produced from different spinning technologies

In this study, it was intended to investigate the effects of yarn spinning technology on knitted fabric thermophysiological comfort and performance properties. For this aim, three different 100% cotton Ne 16/1 yarn samples were produced with different spinning technologies namely, combed ring, compact and sirospun. Then six knitted fabric samples were produced with two different loop lengths. In the context of this study, air permeability and water vapour permeability tests were done as thermophysiological comfort tests, pilling resistance and abrasion resistance tests were performed as performance tests. In order to understand the statistical importance of spinning technology and loop length on knitted fabric properties, ANOVA was performed. According to the results, it is seen that spinning technology and loop length have important effects on observed properties.     

仪纶~(TM)纬平针织物的抗起毛起球性能

本文分别选用环锭纺、赛络纺、赛络紧密纺纺纱工艺,制备了同等纱支的仪纶~(TM)纯纺、仪纶~(TM)/棉(65/35)混纺针织纱线及其纬平针织物,对比测试了纱线性能及其织物抗起毛起球性能。实验结果显示:不同纺纱工艺的仪纶~(TM)针织纱线总体性能相似,赛络紧密纺纱线纱体结构更均匀;赛络纺织物的抗起毛起球性较环锭纺织物高0.5级,赛络紧密纺织物的抗起毛起球性明显好于环锭纺织物;混纺织物的抗起毛起球等级和起球粒数均有所改善。     

全聚赛络纺双芯纱及其弹性电磁屏蔽针织物的制备

为开发弹性回复性更强的防辐射针织物,在全聚纺细纱机上采用嵌入式纺纱方法纺制3 种不同线密度的棉/ 不锈钢/ 氨纶双芯纱和3 种对应线密度的棉/ 不锈钢包芯纱,设计织制成1+ 1罗纹组织织物,测试分析纱线的包覆效果和主要性能及织物的弹性回复性、电磁屏蔽等性能。结果表明：6 种纱线包覆效果及成纱性能均良好;相比不锈钢包芯纱线织物,双芯纱织物在弹性回复和屏蔽电磁波方面有很大的优势,达到一般性民用电磁屏蔽织物的要求且能保证人体舒适性,这种新结构纱线在全聚纺设备上生产是可行的;开发弹性电磁屏蔽织物时,不仅要合理选择长丝预牵伸倍数等工艺参数,还要考虑到织物的服用性、耐久性及生产成本。     

喷气涡流纱及其织物性能分析

文章对竹浆纤维和莫代尔纤维两种原料的喷气涡流纱与环锭纱及其织物进行了测试分析和比较,得出喷气涡流纱制成的织物与环锭纱制成的织物相比具有更加柔软,强度较低,表面光滑,耐磨,透气较好的特点。     

集聚纺和环锭纺细纱及织物的芯吸性能

评价了集聚纺和环锭纺细纱及其织物的芯吸性能。实验结果表明,环锭纺芯吸比集聚纱快,由环锭纱制成的织物比集聚纱制成的织物芯吸快,纱线中纤维排列太紧从芯吸的角度来讲是不利的。     

Permeability properties of single jersey fabrics made of hollow yarns

In this work effect of using hollow yarns on the permeability properties of the single jersey knitted fabrics were studied. Firstly yarns were produced by ring spinning machine using cotton, viscose and acrylic fibres in the mantle and water soluble polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) fibre in the core. Single jersey fabrics were knitted and PVA core was removed subsequently by washing process to create hollow yarn. Weight, air permeability and water transmission rate properties of fabrics were measured before and after washing and compared with reference fabrics. Due to the removal of PVA fibres from the yarn core after washing treatment, air permeability and water vapour transmission rate of the all kind of single jersey fabrics which were produced with hollow yarns increased as well as weight of the fabrics decreased which will cause more comfort during any exercise. It was also found that mantle fibre type and PVA ratio have significant effect on the fabric properties.     

气流槽聚型紧密纺纯苎麻织物的开发与评价

对气流槽聚型紧密纺和普通环锭纺两种纺纱方式的苎麻纱线进行上浆、织造,并对织制的织物采用KES - FB织物风格仪测试其基本力学性能,在此基础上计算得到织物的4项基本风格值.实验结果表明,气流槽聚型紧密纺苎麻纱织物的滑爽度、硬挺度、平展度较普通环锭纱织物好,两种纱线织物丰满度差异不大,前者更适合作为夏季衬衫面料.     

Wicking and drying properties of conventional ring- and vortex-spun cotton yarns and fabrics

This study investigated the vertical wicking, water absorption and drying properties of vortex- and ring-spun combed cotton yarns and knitted fabrics comparatively. The yarns were produced in three different counts as 30 Ne, 40 Ne and 50 Ne. The experimental results revealed that vortex-spun yarns had lower yarn and fabric wicking and water absorption values than ring-spun yarns. In addition, it was observed that yarn type did not have a significant impact on the drying time of the fabrics.     

Assessing colour differences of viscose fabrics knitted from vortex-, ring- and open-end rotor-spun yarns after abrasion

The colour values of fabric samples that are knitted from vortex-spun (VS), open-end rotor-spun and ring-spun yarns were evaluated after abrasion. We measured the changes of colour properties of each sample, considering spinning system, dyeing concentration and abrasion cycle, which have effects on colour values. The colour values of dyed fabrics knitted from ring spun yarns showed less change after abrasion than that of dyed fabrics knitted from open-end rotor-spun and VS yarns, when the spinning systems were compared. The colour values of dyed fabrics knitted from VS yarns showed more changes after abrasion because of the smooth surface of VS yarns.     

转杯纺纱法加工Lyocell针织纱

Lyocell纤维具有优良的物理机械性能,其针织面料在手感和外观等方面的多功能性使其开发应用前景非常广阔。由于转杯纱自身的特点,其针织品品质优越。采用转杯纺纱技术加工28 tex的Lyocell针织纱,探讨前纺工艺及技术措施;通过对各方案试纺对比,研究转杯纺主要工艺参数与成纱质量的关系,为合理选择工艺参数,提高Lyocell转杯纺针织纱的成纱质量提供参考。     

集聚赛络假捻纱与集聚赛络纱的性能对比

为解决针织物在穿着过程中纬斜严重的问题,以大麻/棉(30/70)纱线为原料,分别采用集聚赛络假捻纺和集聚赛络纺生产15 tex细纱,并对成纱的捻度、湿扭结数、毛羽、强度等性能进行了显著性分析。结果表明:线密度、捻度均相同时,集聚赛络假捻纺可顺利纺纱,但集聚赛络纺因强度低使断头率偏高;集聚赛络假捻纱的捻度、湿扭结数、断裂强度、3 mm以上的有害毛羽数、条干均匀性均显著优于集聚赛络纱,线密度相同时,集聚赛络假捻纱的设计捻度可降低16%,且成纱湿扭结数降低约33%,3 mm以上的有害毛羽数降低约90%,条干CV值降低约4.3%,而二者在粗节、细节、棉结方面均无显著差异,因此,由集聚赛络假捻纱为原料制成的针织物纬斜现象得到明显改善。     

Studies on cotton-acrylic bulked yarns produced from different spinning technologies. Part II: fabric characteristics

The present work is concerned with the study of the characteristics of plain woven fabric produced with cotton-acrylic high-bulk yarns from different spinning technologies. The effects of different factors, namely spinning technologies (ring, rotor and DREF-II, i.e. Group A fabrics), position of shrinkable acrylic feed sliver in DREF-II friction spinning system (Group B fabrics) and proportion of shrinkable acrylic core fibre in core-sheath type DREF-III friction spun yarns (Group C fabrics) on various properties of cotton-acrylic blended bulked yarn fabrics have been reported. The influence of these three variables on the mechanical, handle and comfort properties of fabrics have been studied. The properties of fabrics made of bulked yarns from different spinning technologies are found to be different from the normal 100% cotton yarn fabrics in all respect. Even though the bulked yarns were used only in weft direction, the fabrics with modified yarn structures show appreciable improvement in thermal resistance, moisture vapour transmission, wicking and air permeability. The bending rigidity of the fabrics in weft direction also reduced with improvement in crease recovery in weft direction.     

Study on effect of blend ratio on thermal comfort properties of cotton/nylon-blended fabrics with high-performance Kermel fibre

This study presents the thermal comfort properties of woven fabrics made of Kermel, cotton/nylon and cotton/nylon /Kermel-blended yarns. Our aim in this study is to combine the high comfort properties of cotton/nylon fibres with high thermal protective properties of Kermel fibre in different woven fabrics. Thus, Kermel (100%), cotton/nylon (50:50) and four blends of the 50% cotton fibres with nylon and Kermel (40:10, 30:20, 20:30 and 10:40) were spun on a ring-spinning frame and twisted into two-folded yarns with the same yarn count of 30/2(Ne) and twist level of 560 TPM. Using the produced yarns, woven fabrics with identical characteristic and structure were also produced. Then, the thermal comfort and physical properties of fabrics were studied in terms of fabric porosity, thermal resistance, thermal conductivity, water vapour resistance and air permeability. The results show that the porosity, air permeability and thermal resistance increase with Kermel fibre blend ratio. Conversely, the water vapour resistance decreases with increase of Kermel fibre blend ratio up to 40%, while 100% Kermel-woven fabric exhibits a higher water vapour resistance value. Nevertheless, the thermal conductivity of cotton/nylon-blended Kermel woven fabric is unchanged with increase of Kermel fibre blend ratio up to 40%, whereas at 100% Kermel fibre blend ratio, the lowest thermal conductivity is obtained. The obtained results implied that woven fabric produced from cotton/nylon (50/10) blended with 40% Kermel fibre resulted in proper thermal comfort properties.     

纬编间隔床品面料的结构及性能分析

采用3.3 tex涤纶单丝为间隔纱,8.3 tex涤纶和2.2 tex氨纶交织为表层,制备4种不同密度、厚度及间隔纱连接方式的纬编间隔织物。分析织物组织结构和编织工艺,并测试力学性能和热湿舒适性能,分析面料厚度、密度与各项性能关系,用数学模糊分析法对面料进行综合分析。结果表明,间隔纱连接方式对面料拉伸断裂性和顶破性有一定影响,对透气透湿性无明显影响;厚度、密度较小且间隔纱交叉连接的织物综合性能最好;选择床垫面料时考虑厚度、密度及间隔纱连接方式对面料性能影响。     

不锈钢丝包芯纱针织物电磁屏蔽性能研究

采用涤纶长丝、棉粗纱和超细316L不锈钢丝在HN32-04型棉纺花式捻线机上纺制不锈钢丝包芯纱,并在龙星LXC-252SCV型电脑横机上编织纬平针织物及浮线添纱针织物。介绍纺纱原理及编织工艺,并测试不锈钢丝包芯纱的拉伸性能以及针织物的电磁屏蔽效能。结果表明,不锈钢丝包芯纱的平均拉伸断裂强力为38.96 N,位移为124.30 mm,其拉伸过程分为不锈钢丝断裂、纱线中纤维抽拔、纱线断裂过程。随着电磁波频率的不断增强,纬平针织物和浮线添纱针织物的电磁屏蔽效能下降。针织物结构不同,织物紧密程度和线圈大小不同,对不同频段电磁波的屏蔽能力也不同。