Granularity and textural analysis as a proxy for extreme wave events in southeast coast of India

Extreme wave events of 1000 and 1500 years (radiocarbon ages) have been recently reported in Mahabalipuram region, southeast coast of India. Subsequently, we carried out extensive sedimenttological analysis in regions covering a total lateral coverage of 12 km with a new archeological site as the central portion of the study area. Twelve trenches in shore normal profiles exhibit landward thinning sequences as well as upward fining sequences confirming with the global signatures of extreme wave events. The sediment size ranges from fine-to-medium and moderately well sorted-to-well sorted, and exhibit positive skewness with platykurtic-to-leptokurtic nature. We now propose the abrupt winnowing or back and forth motion including unidirectional transport of these deposited sediments, which results in positive skewness. Textural analyses derived from scanning electron microscope studies (SEM) demonstrate the alteration produced, in the ilmenite mineral with vivid presence of pits and crescents with deformation observed on the surface due to extreme wave activities. This is further confirmed with the predominance of high-density mineral such as magnetite (5.2) and other heavy minerals in these deposits inferred the high-intensity of the reworking process of the beach shelf sediments.     

Evidence of extreme wave events from boulder deposits on the south-east coast of Malta (Central Mediterranean)

Large boulder accumulations have been observed on various coasts bordering the Mediterranean and have been associated with extreme wave events such as powerful storms or tsunamis. This study provides an in-depth analysis of 430 boulder deposits, located along a 3.5 km stretch of rocky coast situated on the SE of the Maltese Islands. It includes a geomorphometric analysis of the observed boulders and use of numerical modelling to estimate wave height required to initiate boulder movement. Comparisons of aerial imagery over a period of 46 years have made it possible to identify boulder movement that could only be attributed to storm waves, given that no local tsunamigenic event has been recorded over this time period. Positioned in the central Mediterranean, the Maltese Islands are exposed to potential tsunamis generated by seismic activity associated with the Malta Escarpment, and the Calabrian and Hellenic arcs. Although imprints from historic tsunami impact cannot be excluded, results indicate that the area is exposed to strong storm waves that are capable of displacing some of the very large boulders observed on site.

     

Evidence of extreme wave events from boulder deposits on the south-east coast of Malta (Central Mediterranean)

Large boulder accumulations have been observed on various coasts bordering the Mediterranean and have been associated with extreme wave events such as powerful storms or tsunamis. This study provides an in-depth analysis of 430 boulder deposits, located along a 3.5 km stretch of rocky coast situated on the SE of the Maltese Islands. It includes a geomorphometric analysis of the observed boulders and use of numerical modelling to estimate wave height required to initiate boulder movement. Comparisons of aerial imagery over a period of 46 years have made it possible to identify boulder movement that could only be attributed to storm waves, given that no local tsunamigenic event has been recorded over this time period. Positioned in the central Mediterranean, the Maltese Islands are exposed to potential tsunamis generated by seismic activity associated with the Malta Escarpment, and the Calabrian and Hellenic arcs. Although imprints from historic tsunami impact cannot be excluded, results indicate that the area is exposed to strong storm waves that are capable of displacing some of the very large boulders observed on site.     

Simulation of extreme water levels in response to tropical cyclones along the Indian coast: a climate change perspective

Natural Hazards - Indian coasts are often influenced by life-threatening water levels caused by tropical cyclones. To have a better long-term planning for the coastal districts due to tropical...     

Monthly-mean wind stress along the coast of the north Indian Ocean

Monthly-mean wind stress and its longshore and offshore components have been computed using the bulk aerodynamic method for each of a string of 36 two-degree-latitude by two-degree-longitude squares along the coast of the north Indian Ocean. The data source for the computation is the sixty-year mean resultant winds of Hastenrath and Lamb. The main features exhibited by the components, taking the longshore components as positive (negative) when the Ekman transport is away from (towards) the coast, are: (1) Along the coasts of Somalia and Arabia, the magnitude of the wind stress is among the highest in the north Indian Ocean, and its direction is generally parallel to the coastline. This results in a longshore component which is large (as high as 2·5 dyne/cm²) and positive during the southwest monsoon, and weaker (less than 0·6 dyne/cm²) and negative during the northeast monsoon. (2) Though weak (less than 0·2 dyne/cm²) during the northeast monsoon, the monthly-mean longshore component along the west coast of India remains positive throughout the year. The magnitude of the offshore component during the southwest monsoon is much larger than that of the longshore component. (3) The behaviour of the wind stress components along the east coast of India is similar to that along the Somalia-Arabia coast, but the magnitudes are much smaller.     

Spectral wave characteristics along the central coast of eastern Red Sea

The Jeddah coast lies in the central eastern Red Sea, which is characterized by the predominant northwest winds and the associated wind waves throughout the year. A detailed investigation on the spectral wave characteristics in the nearshore regions of the Jeddah coast has not been carried out yet, primarily due to the lack of data. In the present study, we have analyzed the available wave spectra measured at two nearshore locations along the Jeddah coast using wave gauges. The wave spectra were separated into wind sea and swell components using a frequency-based algorithm, and the integral wave parameters corresponding to each component were derived. Although the measurements were limited to the summer season, notable features such as the diurnal variability and the superimposition of wind seas and swells have been identified from the spectra. The superimposition is mainly due to the interaction of the young swells propagated from the northern Red Sea and the local breezes prevailing along the coast at certain periods in a diurnal cycle. Based on the wave speed calculations and the estimated time shifts between the wind and waves, the potential swell regions have been backtracked.     

Isotopic signatures of otoliths and the stock structure of canary rockfish along the Washington and Oregon coast

Canary rockfish are one of the commercially important rockfish species along the US Pacific coast. Yet little is known about their life history and stock structure. In this study 120 canary rockfish otoliths were collected from waters off the Washington and Oregon coast and subjected to stable O and C isotope (δ¹⁸O and δ¹³C) analyses. One powder sample was taken from the nucleus of each otolith, and the other from the 5th annual ring. Data from otolith nuclei can provide information on the natal sources and spawning stock separations, while data from age-1 to age-5 may indicate changes in fish habitat. Overall the δ¹⁸O values in otoliths of canary rockfish ranged from −0.2‰ to +1.7‰, whereas δ¹³C values of the same samples ranged from −5.4‰ to −1.4‰. The isotopic data and correlation of δ¹⁸O versus δ¹³C did not show clear separation between Washington and Oregon samples, similar to those for a previous study on yelloweye rockfish from the same region. These results suggest that canary rockfish may belong to a single spawning stock or population along the Washington and Oregon coast.     

Impact of sea level rise and coastal slope on shoreline change along the Indian coast

Densely populated coastal zones of India are highly exposed to natural environment. These are impacted by episodic natural events, continuous coastal process, gradually rising sea levels and coexisting human interventions. The present study is an attempt to assess the implication of the sea level rise and coastal slope in the coastal erosion for entire mainland of India. In this regard, two methods were employed to estimate the shoreline change rate (SCR): (1) satellite-derived SCR using the Landsat TM and ETM+ acquired during 1989–2001 and (2) SCR derived by Bruun Rule using the parameters coastal slope and sea level trend derived from satellite altimetry. Satellite-derived SCR has been compared with the shoreline change estimated based on Bruun Rule, revealing a better agreement with each other in terms of trend. Peaks of shoreline retreat calculated using Bruun model and satellite-observed SCR offset by 25–50 km. Offset in these peaks was observed due to net drift towards north in the east coast and south in the west coast of India, revealing the applicability of the Bruun Rule along the Indian coast. The present study demonstrates that coastal slope is an additional parameter responsible for the movement of shoreline along with sea level change. The results of satellite-derived SCR reveal the highest percentage of erosion along West Bengal coast with 70% followed by Kerala (65%), Gujarat (60%) and Odisha (50%). The coastlines of remaining states recorded less than 50% of coasts under erosion. Results of this study are proving critical inputs for the coastal management.     

Return period estimates of extreme sea level along the east coast of India from numerical simulations

Estimates of return periods of extreme sea level events along the coast are useful for impact assessment. In this study, a vertically integrated 2D model was developed for the simulation of storm surges in the Bay of Bengal. The bathymetry for the model was derived from an improved ETOPO-5 data set, which was prepared in our earlier work. The meteorological forcing for the model was obtained from the cyclone model of Holland using the data available for 136 low-pressure systems that occurred during 1974–2000 in the Bay of Bengal. The simulated total sea level and the surge component were obtained for each event. The simulated peak levels showed good agreement with the observations available at few stations. The annual maxima of sea levels, extracted from the simulations, were fitted with Gumbel distribution using r-largest annual maxima method to estimate the 5- and 50-year return periods of extreme events at 26 stations along the east coast of India. The return periods estimated from simulated sea levels showed good agreement with those obtained from observations. The 5- and 50-year return levels of total sea level along the east coast of India show a considerable increase from south to north, with the 50-year return total sea levels being as high as 6.9 and 8.7 m at stations along the north eastern coast such as Sagar Island and Chandipur, respectively. The high return levels are expected at these stations as the cyclones developed in the Bay of Bengal generally move north or north-west, producing extreme events in the northern part, and moreover, these stations are characterized by high tidal ranges. However, at some regions in the southern part such as Surya Lanka and Machilipatnam, though 50-year return levels of total sea level are not very high (2.98 and 2.97 m, respectively) because of the relatively lower tidal ranges, high return levels of surges (0.84 and 0.57 m, respectively) are found. In addition to the role of shallow depths (5.0 and 6.1 m, respectively) at the two stations, the high return levels of surges are attributed to the effect of geometrical configuration at Surya Lanka and width (100 km) and orientation of continental shelf at Machilipatnam.     

Quaternary phosphorites off the southeast coast of India

Detailed petrological, mineralogical, geochemical and radiogenic (U, Sr, Nd) and stable isotope (C, O, S) studies have been carried out on the Quaternary phosphorites of the continental margin off Chennai, southeast coast of India. These phosphorites are formed as a result of trapping and binding of sediments by microbial mats and are similar to phosphate stratiform stromatolites. Detrital and biogenic constituents enclosed in the phosphorites controlled the major and minor element composition. Except for Sr and U, the concentrations of most of the trace metals are lower than those in average shale and phosphorite. Middle rare earth element (MREE)-enriched patterns are the characteristic feature. The U–Th dating method indicates that the ages of the phosphorites are beyond 300,000 years. ⁸⁷Sr/⁸⁶Sr ratios of the phosphorites are higher than that of present-day seawater and εNd values are more negative than those of seawater of the Atlantic Ocean. Carbon isotope ratios are within the range expected for the oxic/suboxic zone but sulfur isotope ratios indicate suboxic conditions during phosphorite formation. These results imply that the benthic microbial mats thrived on the shallow shelf during the Quaternary low sea level conditions. Periodic or episodic sedimentation onto the mats led to their death. The bacteria associated with decaying microbial mats utilised phosphorus supplied by continental sources and rapidly precipitated phosphate. The availability of a high percentage of phosphorus in seawater seems to be an important controlling factor for the formation of phosphate stromatolites. The composition of these phosphorites differs from the modern phosphorites in upwelling regions, but are similar to Cambrian apatite stromatolites. These phosphorites provide evidence that the replicates of ancient phosphate stromatolites do exist in the Quaternary.     

Large boulder accumulations by extreme waves along the Adriatic coast of southern Apulia (Italy)

The Adriatic coast of southern Apulia (Italy) is marked by the presence of large boulder accumulations. Boulders are up to 8 t in weight and arranged either in small groups or rows composed of a few imbricated elements. The lower surface of some of the boulders is covered by biogenic encrustation which suggests that they were possibly carved from the mid or sublittoral zone and that they capsized during their transport. Other boulders, detached from the supratidal zone, have their surface affected by tilted rock pools. New horizontal solution pans are continually forming.A detailed survey of a large boulder accumulation was carried out at Torre Santa Sabina. Direct observations were also made concerning the carving out and transportation of one single boulder during the severe storms in that area on January 4th, 2002 and on January 12th, 2003. Collated data from both the survey and the direct observations including some radiocarbon age determinations and hydrodynamic calculations suggest that the studied accumulation was due to the superimposed effects of one or two tsunami as well as of storm waves. Tsunami would be responsible for the detachment and transportation of the largest boulders, while storm waves may have been responsible for the carving out and transportation of the newer, smaller blocks and for moving once again the largest boulders. It was in this way that a typical boulder accumulation was produced.The collated data suggest that two tsunami may have recently struck the Adriatic coast of southern Apulia. The first possibly took place on the Dalmatian coast as a result of the earthquake on April 6, 1667 which destroyed Ragusa (modern day Dubrovnik). The second tsunami would have accompanied the strong earthquake which took place in southern Apulia on February 20, 1743.     

Indications of an extreme event deposits along the west coast of India: evidences from GPR investigations

The ground-penetrating radar (GPR) was used to trace the subsurface details in the Palshet coastal zone (Maharashtra) as it exhibits an interesting array of geomorphological features. Furthermore, our main goal was to identify and locate features that might have formed during a reported extreme event and its effects on the flow of the nearby Sundri River. Two profiles (8 and 4 m depth) were collected across the beach and along the backshore, respectively. While the 8-m depth profile (west to east; across the beach) indicates a series of coastline regression in this area, the 4-m depth profile along the coastline (north to south) in the backshore zone reveals two significant incidents viz., (1) stages of development of the paleo-channels that indicate the migration of the Sundri River towards south and (2) huge sediment deposits up to 2.5-m thick in the backshore area. The erosional relict surface (~2.5 m depth) was traced along with various spells of sediments that perhaps occurred due to an extreme event. Sand samples were collected from two trial pits along the GPR profiles to understand the sedimentology and mineralogy in the backshore area. These data together with beach profiles and geomorphological maps suggest that the sands were deposited by an extreme event perhaps during the 1854 cyclonic storm. The sands were trapped in suitable geomorphological sites along the Palshet coast and these sand deposits of about 2.5 m thickness forced the River Sundri to shift its course towards the south. This new revelation facilitates a further study that could focus on the nearby coastal areas to document such extreme event deposits and their influence on the geomorphic set-up.     

Possible solar control on primary production along the Indian west coast on decadal to centennial timescale

Using multiple geochemical proxies including specific biomarkers (dinosterol, phytol, stigmasterol and β‐sitosterol) measured in a high‐sedimentation rate core collected from the inner shelf (depth ～45 m) off Goa (India), we reconstruct surface productivity, which is mainly controlled by the monsoon upwelling in this region, during the last ca. 700 a. Surface productivity appears to have varied in tandem with the Konkan–Goa rainfall and sunspot activity during the instrumental period (last 250 a). The productivity proxies also covary with the total solar irradiance reconstructed for the period beyond the instrumental era, within the considerable uncertainty of the age model. This suggests that solar forcing may control coastal upwelling intensity and biological productivity in the eastern Arabian Sea on decadal to centennial timescales. During the late Anthropocene (last ca. 50 a), steep increases in all four biomarkers indicate greatly enhanced productivity in response to high solar irradiance as well as anthropogenic inputs of nutrients. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Identification and characterization of tsunami deposits off southeast coast of India from the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami: Rock magnetic and geochemical approach

The December 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami (IOT) had a major impact on the geomorphology and sedimentology of the east coast of India. Estimation of the magnitude of the tsunami from its deposits is a challenging topic to be developed in studies on tsunami hazard assessment. Two core sediments (C1 and C2) from Nagapattinam, southeast coast of India were subjected to textural, mineral, geochemical and rock-magnetic measurements. In both cores, three zones (zone I, II and III) have been distinguished based on mineralogical, geochemical and magnetic data. Zone II is featured by peculiar rock-magnetic, textural, mineralogical and geochemical signatures in both sediment cores that we interpret to correspond to the 2004 IOT deposit. Textural, mineralogical, geochemical and rock-magnetic investigations showed that the tsunami deposit is featured by relative enrichment in sand, quartz, feldspar, carbonate, SiO ₂, TiO ₂, K ₂O and CaO and by a depletion in clay and iron oxides. These results point to a dilution of reworked ferromagnetic particles into a huge volume of paramagnetic materials, similar to what has been described in other nearshore tsunami deposits (Font et al. 2010). Correlation analysis elucidated the relationships among the textural, mineral, geochemical and magnetic parameters, and suggests that most of the quartz-rich coarse sediments have been transported offshore by the tsunami wave. These results agreed well with the previously published numerical model of tsunami induced sediment transport off southeast coast of India and can be used for future comparative studies on tsunami deposits.     

Application of wave transformation models for estimation of morphological changes at Vellar estuary,southeast coast of India

Assessment of the wave climate at near coast is vital for estimation of morphological changes, such as growth of sand spit and associated siltation of tidal inlets. Vellar (bar-built) estuary is one of the prominent estuaries along the southeast coast of India, located at 11°30′N and 79°46′E, less studied in terms of its morphological features. The inlet of Vellar is exposed to high energetic waves, inducing large sediment transport rates and shoreline changes. Local wave characteristics are not accurately defined and the available wave information at near coast is limited (point based observations). In the present study, three decoupled numerical models are employed to derive the monthly nearshore wave climate at Vellar by transforming waves from deep water to nearshore. These models are independently validated with buoy observations in deep water and wave gauge data at nearshore. Based on the nearshore wave data, littoral drift along the coast was estimated and compared with the spit growth at Vellar inlet. The estimated average littoral drift along this coast from February to October is 1.93 × 10⁶ m³ toward north and from November to January it is 1.52 × 10⁶ m³ toward south, resulting in a net northerly drift. Results indicated that increase in the wave energy during the period of July to September is responsible for the maximum growth of the sand spit observed in the field.     

Variability of mangrove ecosystems along the Brazilian coast

Brazilian mangroves extend from 4°30′N to 28°30′S, varying greatly in growth form, species distribution patterns, and stand structure, in spite of a limited floristic diversity. We divided the Brazilian coastline into eight units, within which physiographic and climatic conditions are relatively uniform, and described mangrove occurrence, species distribution and structural attributes characteristic of each segment. In general, greates mangrove coverage and greatest forest stature are found in areas with a large surplus of rainfall over potential evapotranspiration and macrotidal regimes. An exception was the segment containing the mouth of the Amazon river, where freshwater systems dominate over brackish or marine associations. We believe that the variability in species associations and the dominance of each in a given environment is predominantly determined by the characteristics of the landforms that can be colonized by each species in a given region. The type, size, and frequency of occurrence of available landforms is a function of the particular mix of fluvial, tidal, and wave energies found in a region. Different species colonize these sites depending on their adaptations and edaphic preferences. Climate affects mangrove colonization and growth. We suggest that Brazilian mangroves play a minor role in modifying the geomorphic setting; the spatial arrangement of the various forest types is a response to the underlying topography and edaphic conditions, and to the constraints imposed by climatic and hydrologic factors. The spatial arrangement of species does not necessarily show successional processes, but may be the result of direct and differential colonization on appropriate substrates.     

Littoral cells and harbor dredging along the California coast

Beach compartments or littoral cells form the framework for our understanding of the sources, transport, and sinks of sand in the nearshore zone. In general, along the California coast, beach sand is derived from rivers or clifferosion, moves alongshore under the influence of the prevailing waver conditions, and ultimately is lost either to a submarine canyon or a dune field. Marinas or harbors built either between or at the upcoast ends of beach compartments have been relatively maintenance-free, because of a lack of significant littoral drift at these locations. On the other hand, those harbors built in the middle reaches or at the downcoast ends of littoral cells have had expensive annual dredging problems, because of the interruption of large volumes of littoral drift. Although engineers have labored for years on various breakwater, jetty, or entrance channel configurations, the actual design utilized is of secondary importance. The critical factors are harbor location within a littoral cell and annual litoral drift volume.