Comparisons of Computational and Experimental Results of Solitary Wave Breaking

- In this paper, the solitary wave deformation along a gentle slope and the impact pressure, on the wall are investigated experimentally and the results are compared with numerical results obtained based on the volume of fluid (VOF) method. The topography used in the experiment consists of three segments. The left segment is a 1:4 slope, the middle segment 1 :SO slope and the right segment a horizontal bed. Both the wave heights and breaking points obtained from numerical simulation and experiments are in good agreement. Numerical results give reasonable pressure distributions of breaking waves on the wall.     

沿程非均匀分布植物区对海啸波消减的数值研究

为研究近岸植物的非均匀分布对海啸波的消减作用,采用非静压单相流模型计算了5种不同密度分布植物与孤立波的相互作用,分析不同密度分布植物对海啸的消波特性。结果表明在植物总株数相同时,具有不同分布密度植物的消波效果相近,透射波波高差小于3%、最大流速差小于5.4%,但是不同植物密度分布情况下植物区前的反射系数有所不同,反射系数最大差为80.2%。此外,所有分布的植物区对波高和流速的透射系数随着波高和植物区长度变化的趋势是一样的,在不同入射波高和植物区长度情况下5种分布均呈现出相似的沿程衰减机制。     

刚性植物分布方式对海啸波消减影响实验研究

在理论分析的基础上通过物理模型实验探究了刚性植物分布方式对海啸波消减的影响。实验中借助孤立波模拟海啸波,分析了矩形、交错、组合三类分布方式下孤立波沿程波高、透射系数以及拖曳力系数的变化情况。结果表明,植物分布密度相等时,孤立波在矩形和组合分布植物模型前的壅高均大于交错分布植物模型。同时,植物分布密度一定时,分布方式将对植物消波产生影响,且植物间横向间距L2比纵向间距L1的影响更大。在雷诺数2000≤Rep≤4000且体积分数小于或等于0.331的条件下,各植物模型的拖曳力系数随植物分布密度的增大而增大。     

根、茎、叶定量概化植物模型沿程不规则波消减实验

在理论分析的基础上利用根、茎、叶均可量化的植物模型,开展波浪水槽实验。通过改变实验水深、入射波高、植物分布密度等因素,研究不规则波在植物群传播时沿程波高衰减特性,利用快速傅里叶变换对不规则波频谱变化情况进行分析。结果表明,各植物模型消波效果较好,但很少出现植物消波的边界效应,不规则波沿植物群的波高变化情况多数时与Mendez理论曲线不一致,植物群各部分的波能衰减情况并无固定的变化规律。此外,波能衰减集中在谱峰频率处,且入射波高越大,透射波与入射波之间的谱峰值差值越大,但透射波的频谱宽度与入射波相比无明显变化。本研究可为采用近岸植物消波护岸提供一定的理论依据。     

Numerical Model of Cnoidal Wave Flume

The volume of fluid(VOF)method is used to set up a wave flume with an absorbing wavemaker of cnoidal waves.Based on the transfer function between wave surface and paddle velocity obtained bythe shallow water wave theory,the velocity boundary condition of an absorbing wave maker is introduced toabsorb reflected waves that reach the numerical wave maker.For H/d ranging from 0.1 to 0.59 and T(g/d)~(1/2)from 7.9 to 18.3,the parametric studies have been carried out and compared with experiments.     

基于非静压模型的非淹没刚性植物消波特性数值模拟研究

基于非静压单相流模型NHWAVE,设计不同的计算工况,系统研究了规则波与非规则波作用下,非淹没刚性植物的消波特性。将计算结果和实验数据进行对比分析,验证了非静压模型NHWAVE计算植物消波特性的准确性。进一步研究了波高、周期和水深等因素对植物消波特性的影响,探讨了植物消波特性与这些水动力因素的内在联系。结果表明:非淹没刚性植物的消波效率受波高和周期的影响较大,水深对消波效率的影响很小。由于波浪非线性的影响,基于线性波理论的消波理论模型对植物消波能力的估计偏小。     

Wave Attenuation Performance and the Influencing Factors of A Lower Arc-Plate Breakwater

Comprehensive experimental and numerical studies have been undertaken to investigate wave energy dissipation performance and main influencing factors of a lower arc-plate breakwater. The numerical model, which considers nonlinear interactions between waves and the arc-plate breakwater, has been constructed by using the velocity wave- generating method, the volume of fluid (VOF) method and the finite volume method. The results show that the relative width, relative height and relative submergence of the breakwater are three main influencing factors and have significant influence on wave energy dissipation of the lower arc-plate open breakwater. The transmission coefficient is found to decrease with the increasing relative width, and the minimum transmission coefficient is 0.15 when the relative width is 0.45. The reflection coefficient is found to vary slightly with the relative width, and the maximum reflection coefficient is 0.53 when the relative width is 0.45. The transmission and reflection coefficients are shown to increase with the relative wave height for approximately 85% of the experimental tests when the relative width is 0.19 0.45. The transmission coefficients at relative submergences of 0.04, 0.02 and 0 are clearly shown to be greater than those at relative submergences of 0.02 and 0.04, while the reflection coefficient exhibits the opposite relationship. After the wave interacts with the lower arc-plate breakwater, the wave energy is mainly converted into transmission, reflection and dissipation energies. The wave attenuation performance is clearly weakened for waves with greater heights and longer periods.     

基于高阶边界元的三维数值波浪港池--波浪破碎的模拟

在势流理论的框架内,采用高阶边界元方法和混合欧拉-拉格朗日法,实现了对三维波浪破碎过程的数值模拟.数值模型使用可调节时间步长的基于二阶显式泰勒展开的混合欧拉-拉格郎日时间步进来求解自由表面的演化过程.在所使用的边界元方法中,采用16节点三次滑移四边形单元来表示,这种单元在单元内具有高阶的精度同时在单元之间具有良好的连续性.给出了孤立波的传播和周期性非线性波浪沿缓坡传播的计算结果,表明数值模型具有良好的稳定性.     

Quantifying saltmarsh vegetation and its effect on wave height dissipation: Results from a UK East coast saltmarsh

The degree to which incident wind waves are attenuated over intertidal surfaces is critical to the development of coastal wetlands, which are, amongst other processes, affected by the delivery, erosion, and/or resuspension of sediment due to wave action. Knowledge on wave attenuation over saltmarsh surfaces is also essential for accurate assessments of their natural sea-defence value to be made and incorporated into sea defence and management schemes. The aim of this paper is to evaluate the use of a digital photographic method for the quantification of marsh vegetation density and then to investigate the relative roles played by hydrodynamic controls and vegetation density/type in causing the attenuation of incident waves over a macro-tidal saltmarsh.Results show that a significant statistical relationship exists between the density of vegetation measured in side-on photographs and the dry biomass of the photographed vegetation determined through direct harvesting. The potential of the digital photographic method for the spatial and temporal comparison of marsh surface vegetation biomass, density, and canopy structure is highlighted and the method was applied to assess spatial and seasonal differences in vegetation density and their effect on wave attenuation at three locations on a macro-tidal saltmarsh on Dengie Peninsula, Essex, UK. In this environmental setting, vegetation density/type did not have a significant direct effect on wave attenuation but modified the process of wave transformation under different hydrodynamic conditions. At the two locations, characterised by a relatively tall canopy (15–26 cm) with biomass values of 430–500 g m⁻², dominated by Spartina spp. (>70% of total dry biomass), relative incident wave height (wave height/water depth) is identified as a statistically significant dominant positive control on wave attenuation up to a threshold value of 0.55, beyond which wave attenuation showed no significant further increase. At the third location, characterised by only slightly less biomass (398 g m⁻²) but a shorter (6 cm) canopy of the annual Salicornia spp., no significant relationship existed between wave attenuation and relative wave height. Seasonally (between September and December) significant temporal increase/decrease in vegetation density occurred in one of the Spartina canopies and in the Salicornia canopy, respectively, and led to an expected (but not statistically significant) increase/decrease in wave attenuation. The wider implications of these findings in the context of form–process interactions on saltmarshes and their effect on marsh evolution are also discussed.     

Experimental and Numerical Study on the Hydrodynamic Characteristics of Solitary Waves Passing Over A Submerged Breakwater

In this study, solitary waves passing over a submerged breakwater are investigated both experimentally and numerically. A total of 9 experimental conditions are carried out, including different incident wave heights and water depths. Numerical simulations are performed using a high-order finite-difference model solving Navier–Stokes (N–S) equations. The predicted water wave elevation, velocity and pressure show good agreement with experimental data, verifying the accuracy and capacity of the numerical model. Furthermore, parametric studies are conducted by numerical modelling to examine the effects of the geometrical features of submerged dike on hydrodynamic characteristics around the breakwater.     

Experiments on Transformation and Run-Up of Wave Trains

—This paper details experiments undertaken in the UK Coastal Research Facility(CRF)at Hy-draulics Research(HR).Wallingford.on transformation and run-up of wave trains.The purpose of theseexperiments is to provide verification data for numerical models of wave transformation in shoaling.surfand swash zones.This is the kind of data that flume experiments are unable to provide.and is collected inthe highly controlled environment of CRF where extrinsic factors present in the field are not an issue.Theexperiments concerning wave trains are undertaken by use of existing wave generation software.and therun-up measurements are made with large experimental run-up gauges.     

应用“跨零-能量”法估算海洋波浪再生能资源

海洋波浪能是一种可持续和零污染的再生能源,随着自然能源日渐匮乏和全球气候变化,人类对波浪能的开发利用显得尤其重要。本文应用\"跨零—能量\"波浪分析的新方法,首次推导了不规则波浪的波能流垂向分布及其理论计算公式。本文研究发现,浅水波能流具有均匀的垂向分布,深水波能流集中于海表层的水体中,过渡区波能流的垂向分布介于浅水和深水波能的分布之间。研究还发现,目前海洋波能流的估算方法和现今波浪发电装置的波能采集深度缺少相关性,过高估算了海洋波浪的可发电资源。     

Development of A Fully Nonlinear Numerical Wave Tank

A fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) based on the solution of the σ-transformed Navier-Stokes equation is developed in this study. The numerical wave is generated from the inflow boundary, where the surface elevation and/or velocity are specified by use of the analytical solution or the laboratory data. The Sommerfeld/Orlanski radiation condition in eonjunetion with an artificial damping zone is applied to reduce wave reflection from the outflow boundary. The whole numerical solution procedures are split into three steps, i.e., advection, diffusion and propagation, and a new method, the Lagrange-Euler Method, instead of the MAC or VOF method, is introduced to solve the free surface elevation at the new time step. Several typical wave cases, including solitary waves, regular waves and irregular waves, are simulated in the wave tank. The robustness and accuracy of the NWF are verified by the good agreement between the numerical results and the linear or nonlinear analytical solutions. This research will be further developed by study of wave-wave, wave-current, wave-structure or wave-jet interaction in the future.     

On the structure and propagation of internal solitary waves generated at the Mascarene Plateau in the Indian Ocean

Analysis of a comprehensive dataset of Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) images acquired over the sea area around the Mascarene Plateau in the western Indian Ocean reveals, for the first time, the full two-dimensional spatial structure of internal solitary waves in this region of the ocean. The satellite SAR images show that powerful internal waves radiate both to the west and east from a central sill near 12.5°S, 61°E between the Saya de Malha and Nazareth Banks. To first order, the waves appear in tidally generated packets on both sides of the sill, and those on the western side have crest lengths in excess of 350 km, amongst the longest yet recorded anywhere in the world's oceans. The propagation characteristics of these internal waves are well described by first mode linear waves interacting with background shear taken from the westward-flowing South Equatorial Current (SEC), a large part of which flows through the sill in question. Analysis of the timings and locations of the packets indicates that both the westward- and eastward-traveling waves are generated from the western side of the sill at the predicted time of maximum tidal flow to the west. The linear generation mechanism is therefore proposed as the splitting of a large lee wave that forms on the western side of the sill, in a similar manner to that already identified for the shelf break generation of internal waves in the northern Bay of Biscay. While lee waves should form on either side of the sill in an oscillatory tidal flow, that on the western side would be expected to be much larger than that on the eastern side because of a superposition of the tidal flow and the steady westward flow of SEC. The existence of a large lee wave at the right time in the tidal cycle is then finally confirmed by direct observations. Our study also confirms the existence of second mode internal waves that form on the western side of the sill and travel across the sill towards the east.     

波浪在珊瑚礁地形上破碎特性试验研究

对波浪在珊瑚礁地形上的传播特性进行了物理试验研究,将珊瑚礁地形简化为坡度为1∶5的陡坡(向海坡)加较长水平礁坪段的地形,对规则波和不规则波在该地形条件下的波浪破碎及波高沿程衰减进行了研究。结果表明,波高较小时,波浪破碎发生在礁坪上,但随着入射波高的增大,破碎位置逐渐向来浪方向移动,直至在向海坡段破碎。对于在礁坪上破碎的波浪,相对水深db/L0一定的条件下,破碎波高与入射波陡H0/L0相关,且变化趋势受相对水深db/L0的影响。同时给出了该地形条件下波浪破碎指标以及礁坪段破碎后沿程波高的计算公式。     

Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater

This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well.     

波浪作用下潜标拖缆动力学分析

对三维潜标拖缆在规则波作用下的动力响应进行了研究,首先基于集中质量法给出了缆绳在规则波作用下的控制方程,然后提出了两种不同类型的自由端边界条件:质点型和艇型自由端边界条件,前者把拖体视为作三个自由度线运动的质点,而后者把拖体视为作六自由度运动的艇体,最后用有限差分法进行了数值研究。数值计算结果表明潜标拖缆在规则波的作用下,不仅作近似的简谐振动,还会在横向、垂向产生一个偏移量,该偏移量的大小随浪向角的变化而变化,另外受遭遇频率的影响,振动的幅值也随浪向角的变化而呈现不同的特征。     

基于光滑质点流体动力学方法数值波浪水槽研究

基于光滑质点流体动力学(smoothed particle hydrodynamics,简称SPH)方法建立二维数值波浪水槽,利用推波板造波生成孤立波和不规则波,模拟结果跟实验值及解析解做了对比分析,结果令人满意.SPH数值水槽中生成的波浪具有明显的非线性,波浪能量沿程有所衰减,与物理水槽结果吻合良好.