Performance of the CCIW wave direction buoy at ARSLOE

The performance at the Atlantic Remote Sensing Land Ocean Experiment (ARSLOE) of the Canada Centre for Inland Waters (CCIW) wave direction buoy is examined. The waveheight and period data show good agreement with data from neighboring buoys. Nondimensional energy and fetch for wind sea cases agree well with data collected from fixed sensors in Lake Ontario. Direction measurements for a particularly well-defined swell agree well with the Experimental Environmental Research Buoy (XERB) measurements. Meteorological data are compared with that collected at the XERB. Windspeed estimates are reasonably well-correlated and much of the scatter is due to the 24-kin separation between the buoys. There is some systematic bias in the wind direction estimates.     

Directional ocean wave spectra using buoy azimuth, pitch, and rollderived from magnetic field components

Buoy azimuth, pitch, and roll, when used with measurements of buoy vertical acceleration, can provide directional wave spectra. Earlier work, which considered effects of buoy hull magnetism, showed that azimuth can be determined from magnetic field measurements (K.E. Steele and J.C. Lau, 1986). This work is extended to show that buoy pitch and roll, and thus buoy slopes, can also be determined from the same measurements. These slopes can be determined from measurements of the magnetic field components inside the hull along two orthogonal axes parallel to the deck of a buoy. Algorithms are developed for estimation of azimuth, pitch, and roll angles using these measurements. The algorithms account for residual and induced hull magnetism. Azimuth, pitch, roll, and estimates of directional wave spectra are determined both from the magnetic field measurements and from a conventional wave measurement system on the same buoy. Comparisons show that estimates of directional spectra based on magnetometer-derived pitch and roll agree well     

Ocean wave energy harvesting with a piezoelectric coupled buoy structure

An expedient piezoelectric coupled buoy energy harvester from ocean waves is developed. The harvester is made of several piezoelectric coupled cantilevers attached to a floating buoy structure, which can be easily suspended in the intermediate and deep ocean for energy harvesting. In the buoy structure, a slender cylindrical floater is attached on a large sinker. The energy harvesting process is realized by converting the transverse ocean wave energy to the electrical energy via the piezoelectric patches mounted on the cantilevers fixed on the buoy. A smart design of the buoy structure is developed to increase the energy harvesting efficiency by investigation of the effects of the sizes of the floater and the sinker. A numerical model is presented to calculate the generated electric power from buoy energy harvester. The research findings show that up to 24 W electric power can be generated by the proposed expedient buoy harvester with the length of the piezoelectric cantilevers of 1 m and the length of the buoy of 20 m. The technique proposed in this research can provide an expedient, feasible and stable energy supply from the floating buoy structure.     

A submarine-launched wave measuring buoy

A wave buoy, the Submarine Deployed Sea State Sensor (SUDSS), was developed to directly measure surface waves from a submerged moving submarine. The SUDSS is adapted from the Submarine Launched Expendable Bathythermograph (SSXBT) by replacing its temperature probe with a vertical sensing accelerometer. The SUDSS, launched from the aft signal ejector, utilizes the SSXBT cylinder, its lifting body, and filament wire spool-out mechanisms. Upon surfacing it oscillates vertically in phase with waves of frequencies below 0.5 Hz producing a voltage signal that is conducted via the filament wire back to the submarine and processed to produce a 10–12 minute wave record. On-board data analysis determines spectra, sea state, and the partial variance of spectral energy which between 0.2–0.5 Hz estimates the local wind speed.An accelerometer calibrator for wave frequencies was assembled consisting of a computer-controlled motor-driven swing arm which rotates an accelerometer as a simple harmonic oscillator; different rotation rates providing a variety of frequencies. Absolute accelerations are determined from the arm radius and its angular velocity. Wilcoxen accelerometers were chosen, providing a linear output of 1 v/g₀ (sensitivity) for simulated waves from 0.09–0.25 Hz (4–11 s periods).The SUDSS fitted with a buoyant tether signal cable, can be deployed from a surface ship for rapid wave/sea state measurements.     

A discus-hulled wave measuring buoy

Described herein is a self-contained, discus-hulled buoy 1.5 m dia., weighing 150 kg, which uses inertial instruments to measure wave height and tilt. Wave tank calibration and the theory of shallow draft buoys demonstrate such a hull accurately follows waves with length greater than twice the buoy diameter. The non-linear response of the buoy determines its sensitivity to low-frequency waves in a sea. And the ratio of wave signal to instrument “noise” is constant over the energetic part of the ocean-wave spectrum for measurements of wave acceleration and slope.     

Theoretical analysis on the transverse motion of a buoy by surface wave

The theoretical analysis on the transverse motion of a buoy is reported here. The analysis has been done by linear differential equation, and its conclusion shows that the transverse motion occurs when the parameters of surface wave and buoy system are related by Mathieu's instability condition. This analysis can be applied to the pole structure which has the equal flexibility in all directions.     

Measurement of wind waves by means of a buoy accelerometer wave gauge

An accelerometer buoy wave gauge developed in the Marine Hydrophysical Institute of the Ukrainian Academy of Sciences is described. This allows measurement of acceleration and the sea surface elevation in the system of reference connected with a buoy. The integral and frequency spectral characteristics of waves can be computed from the records of the wave gauge signal. The use of a buoy accelerometer at sea provides a possibility to derive effective information on the wind waves.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Quality evaluation and calibration of the SWIM significant wave height product with buoy data

The significant wave height (SWH) is one of the main parameters that describe wave characteristics and is widely used in wave research fields. Wave parameters measured by radar are influenced by the offshore distance and sea state. Validation and calibration are of great significance for radar data applications. The nadir beam of surface wave investigation and monitoring (SWIM) detects the global-ocean-surface SWH. To determine the product quality of SWIM SWH, this paper carried out time-space matching between SWIM and buoy data. The data qualities were evaluated under different offshore distances and sea states. An improved calibration method was proposed based on sea state segmentation, which considered the distribution of the point collocation numbers in various sea states. The results indicate that (1) the SWIM SWH accuracy at offshore distances greater than 50 km is higher than that at distances less than 50 km, with an root mean squared error (RMSE) of 0.244 4 m, scatter index (SI) of 0.115 6 and relative error (RE) of 9.97% at distances greater than 50 km and those of 0.446 0 m, 0.223 0 and 18.66% at distances less than 50 km. (2) SWIM SWH qualities are better in moderate and rough sea states with RMSEs of 0.284 8 m and 0.316 9 m but are worse in slight and very rough sea states. (3) The effect of the improved calibration method is superior to the traditional method in each sea state and overall data, and the RMSE of SWIM SWH is reduced from the raw 0.313 5 m to 0.285 9 m by the traditional method and 0.198 2 m by the improved method. The influence of spatiotemporal window selection on data quality evaluation was analyzed in this paper. This paper provides references for SWIM SWH product applications.     

基于漂流浮标的南大洋卫星高度计有效波高研究

随着技术的进步和数据处理方法的完善,经过修正的卫星高度计数据已获得普遍认可.但在南大洋缺少波浪现场数据,卫星高度计在极端恶劣气候条件下获得数据的准确度仍受到一定程度的质疑.中国于2020年第36次南极考察中,在南大洋布放了一套感应耦合漂流浮标,可提供可靠的南大洋现场波浪数据.本文利用该漂流浮标2020年1月27日至9月...     

The validation of HY-2 altimetermeasurements of a significant wave height based on buoy data

HY-2 has been launched by China on August 16, 2011 which assembles multi-microwave remote sensing payloads in a body and has the ability of monitoring ocean dynamic environments. The HY-2 satellite data need to be calibrated and validated before being put into use. Based on the in-situ buoys from the Nation- al Data Buoy Center （NDBC）, Ku-band significant wave heights （SWH, hs） of HY-2 altimeter are validated. Eleven months of HY-2 altimeter Level 2 products data are chose from October 1, 2011 to August 29, 2012. Using NDBC 60 buoys yield 902 collocations for HY-2 by adopting collocation criteria of 30 min for tempo- ral window and 50 km for a spatial window. An overall RMS difference of the SWH between HY-2 and buoy data is 0.297 m. A correlation coefficient between these is 0.964. An ordinary least squares （OLS） regression is performed with the buoy data as an independent variable and the altimeter data as a dependent vari- able. The regression equation of hs is hs （HY-2）=0.891 × hs （NDBC）＋0.022. In addition, 2016 collocations are matched with temporal window of 30 rain at the crossing points of HY-2 and Jason-2 orbits. RMS difference of Ku-band SWH between the two data sets is 0.452 m.     

Swell-dominant surface waves observed by a moored buoy with a GPS wave sensor in Otsuchi Bay,a ria in Sanriku,Japan

Real-time monitoring of wind and surface waves in Otsuchi Bay, Iwate, Tohoku, Japan, commenced in October 2012, using a mooring buoy with an ultrasonic anemometer and a single-mode GPS wave sensor. Wind and wave data are distributed hourly in real time via the Internet along with a chart of their time series. We analyzed data monitored in the first 3 months in order to assess the variability and occurrence of wind and waves and to elucidate the main reasons for wave variation in Otsuchi Bay. The monitoring data revealed that surface waves in the bay were predominantly affected by swells propagated from the northeastern offshore region and that the wave height was significantly correlated with the component of wind velocity toward Otsuchi Bay in the northeastern offshore region that faces the bay mouth. The offshore wind field was expected to provide information useful for predicting coastal waves in a ria bay in Sanriku such as Otsuchi Bay. However, it should be emphasized that the horizontal distribution of the offshore wind field which has a significant effect on the surface waves in a ria bay depends heavily on the topographic shape of the bay.     

基于浮标数据的卫星雷达高度计海浪波高数据评价与校正

卫星雷达高度计是海浪有效波高（significant wave height,SWH）观测的重要手段之一,本文利用时空匹配方法对T/P、Jason-1、Envisat、Jason-2、Cryosat-2和HY-2A共6颗卫星雷达高度计SWH数据与NDBC（National Data Buoy Center,NDBC）浮标SWH数据进行对比验证,并对雷达高度计SWH数据进行校正。全部卫星雷达高度计SWH数据时间跨度为1992年9月25日到2015年9月1日,对比验证NDBC浮标共53个,包括7个大洋浮标。精度评价发现除T/P外,各卫星雷达高度计SWH的RMSE都在0.4~0.5 m之间,经过校正后,RMSE都有显著下降,下降程度最大为13.82%;对于大洋浮标,评价结果RMSE在0.20~0.28 m之间,结果明显优于全部NDBC浮标的精度评价结果;HY-2A卫星雷达高度计SWH在经过校正后数据质量与国外其他5颗卫星雷达高度计SWH数据质量差异较小。     

Nearshore directional wave measurements by surface-following buoy and acoustic Doppler current profiler

Directional energy spectra of nearshore surface waves were measured for a 3-year period (2004–2007) at a site with mean depth 14 m and mean tidal range 2.1 m. Triaxys surface-following wave buoys reported hourly directional wave energy spectra and wave parameters near the offshore end of the Savannah River Entrance Channel, Georgia, USA. An acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) was located beside the wave buoy for 3 months. Directional and non-directional surface wave energy spectra and the corresponding bulk wave parameters (height, period, and direction) are compared for the two systems. Most parameters derived from the spectra agree closely; the most significant differences were found at the upper and lower frequency measurement limits, where signal-to-noise ratios were lower. The wave buoy consistently reports a small amount of energy below 0.05 Hz that does not appear in the ADCP-derived spectra and does not appear to be related to the mooring system. This leads to larger mean and peak periods reported by the buoy. All directional spectra were computed using the Maximum Entropy Method for both instruments, but the buoy, with spectra derived from six independent time series, provides lower directional resolving power than the ADCP, which utilizes twelve time series. Both systems gave similar results defining mean and peak wave directions, with the primary difference being that the ADCP indicates energy to be more tightly concentrated around the peak direction.     

Theory and application of calibration techniques for an NDBC directional wave measurements buoy

The National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) deployed a 10-m-diameter discus-type hull in the Pacific Ocean some 185 km southwest of Los Angeles, California, in April 1984. Aboard this hull was an electronic system capable of acquiring, processing, and transmitting to shore directional wave measurements. For this system to produce accurate data, a number of factors had to be taken into account. These factors included noise, amplitude and phase alterations due to mechanical and electrical components, and magnetic fields arising from the hull. Comprehensive calibration and verification techniques were developed and applied to ensure data quality. The system configuration is described with emphasis on the methods used in the data processing to correct for the various factors. Examples of the resulting corrected data are given.     

Measurement of ocean wave spectra using a ship-mounted HF radar

The work describes an inversion algorithm for HF radar measurement of nondirectional wave spectra using an omnidirectional receive/transmit antenna. Such a radar would be suitable for deployment on a stationary ship or drill rig. In this approach, wave information is extracted from the radar observations by numerically inverting the integral equation representing the backscatter return from the ocean. Test results of this technique applied to data collected using a 25.4-MHz radar installed on a ship have been very positive. For the two measurements collected, there is a high degree of correlation between the radar wave estimates and those of a WAVE-TRACK buoy     

Representation of double-peaked sea wave spectra

About 1000 measured wave spectra from the North Atlantic and 6000 from the North Sea, were analysed so as to determine the frequency of occurrence of double-peaked spectra in sea states of different intensity. This type of spectrum did not occur so often close to coast and in high sea states. A four-parameter theoretical formulation was proposed to represent double-peaked spectra and was shown to provide an excellent fit to measured spectra. The average values of the spectral parameters describing the two peaks did not show any clear dependence on significant wave height.     

A comparison of several wave spectra for the random wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater

A comparison of the diffraction of multidirectional random waves using several selected wave spectrum models is presented in this paper. Six wave spectrum models, Bretschneider, Pierson–Moskowitz, ISSC, ITTC, Mitsuyasu, and JONSWAP spectrum, are considered. A discrete form for each of the given spectrum models is used to specify the incident wave conditions. Analytical solutions based on both the Fresnel integrals and polynomial approximations of the Fresnel integrals and numerical solutions of a boundary integral approach have been used to obtain the two-dimensional wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater at uniform water depth. The diffraction of random waves is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. The results of predicted random wave diffraction for each of the given spectrum models are compared with those of the published physical model presented by Briggs et al. [1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering—ASCE 121(1), 23–35]. Reasonable agreement is obtained in all cases. The effect of the directional spreading function is also examined from the results of the random wave diffraction. Based on these comparisons, the present model for the analysis of various wave spectra is found to be an accurate and efficient tool for predicting the random wave field around a semi-infinite breakwater or inside a harbor of arbitrary geometry in practical applications.     

Wave response of a spar buoy with and without a damping plate

Report on a computer analysis of wave response of a spar buoy that has been operated successfully in the Mediterranean over the past ten years, to find out how the presence of a large horizontal plate at the bottom affects its wave response. The calculations show that the addition of a damping plate decreases have response for short waves but increases the response for very long waves.