民国时期报刊服装广告的"西风东渐"潮

从悬念式、名人式与综合式等广告创意的角度,从摄影、绘画与文案等广告形式的角度分析了民国时期报刊服装广告受“西风东渐”历史潮流的影响,并从服装加工方式、服装消费方式与文化根基的西化等方面探讨了其形成原因。     

清末民国女装之“西风东渐”思潮解读

清王朝的势力自甲午海战之后,就以摧枯拉朽之势衰颓没落。随之而来的是中国向西方的学习,在这个过程中,中国的衣食住行,尤其是位居首位的衣着受到了西方思潮的深刻影响。文章通过对以往文献和图片的梳理,从女装的角度出发,探讨从晚清到民国初期女装背后的"西风东渐"思潮。     

清末民国女装之"西风东渐"思潮解读

清王朝的势力自甲午海战之后,就以摧枯拉朽之势衰颓没落.随之而来的是中国向西方的学习,在这个过程中,中国的衣食住行,尤其是位居首位的衣着受到了西方思潮的深刻影响.文章通过对以往文献和图片的梳理,从女装的角度出发,探讨从晚清到民国初期女装背后的"西风东渐"思潮.     

论民国时期女性的服饰造型特点

辛亥革命废除封建帝制,创立民国。民国之初,剪辫发,易服色。新的社会制度和新的社会风气,首先解放了人们的思想,紧接着解放了人们的身体,在服饰方面对其款式造型等方面也进行了不断的改良。民国时期,女性的服装以旗袍为主。主要探讨民国时期女性的旗袍造型和相关的服饰搭配特点。     

民国时期电影服饰特征及影响因素

目前学界对民国电影服饰的关注与研究,除整理电影女性人物服饰形象的变化之外,鲜有结合民国社会思潮和国际设计思想的角度开展的针对民国时期电影服饰的研究。通过文献研究法,文章归纳出民国电影服饰的特点,同时进一步分析出设计思潮对民国电影服饰发展的影响,阐述了民国电影服饰的重要性。     

民国时期盘扣的造型艺术及流行变迁

盘扣是重要的中国传统服装元素,在民国时期发展至顶峰,民国盘扣的造型艺术及流行变迁受到西风东渐的影响.文章根据历史文献、实物和图像等资料,梳理了中国传统盘扣的历史沿革,分析了民国盘扣的造型艺术,探讨了民国盘扣流行变迁,并管窥民国社会文化观念变化,对中国传统服饰文化的传承发展提供了合理依据.研究表明:一字扣体现极简风格,盘...     

民国时期东北地区女性服饰变化研究

服饰是人类社会生活的直观反映,而女性服饰变化则展现了中国女性在追求自身解放过程中的觉醒与进步,也体现了社会不断发展的历史进程。民国时期,在解放思想和倡导平等的社会背景之下,女性服饰发生了巨大改变。民国时期东北地区的女性服饰,因其特殊的地理位置与政治背景而独具特色,为中国服饰史增添了一抹别样的色彩。     

西风东渐潮流之下的声音--兼论上海民国时期服装评论的题材

将上海民国时期的服装评论置于“西风东渐”的历史潮流下,按照启蒙型、资讯型和点评型三种题材进行评析,并得出以下三个结论：当时已经建立了中国早期服装评论的框架体系：这些评论大部是为西式服装的引进而推波助澜的重要因素;这些评论的中心思想属于当时新文化运动中种种新思潮的一部分。     

04/05意大利针织服饰面料材质风格的设计方法

通过对04/05意大利针织服饰布料的分析和总结，从原料、线型、组织结构、后整理等方面探讨了04/05意大利流行针织面料材质风格的设计方法。     

西风东渐“破圈”人

皮尔·卡丹是一位预见未来,挑战时尚权威的设计大师2020年尾声,又一位设计大师离开了我们。与其他欧美设计师不同,这位98岁的意大利裔法国时装设计师在中国拥有超级高的知名度,可谓是家喻户晓,他就是中国人民的老朋友,皮尔·卡丹(Pierre Cardin)。这位西方设计大师的离世,在中国"50后""60后"群体引起强烈影响...     

多轴向经编针织物在风力发电叶片蒙皮中的应用

文章介绍了多轴向经编针织物的结构和性能,简述了多轴向经编针织物在风力发电叶片蒙皮中应用的优势。     

中西人文差异探析——以欧洲文艺复兴绘画与中国明式家具为例

十六世纪亚欧大陆出现了资本主义的生产关系,这是值得我们注意的东西方人文意识的崭新历史时期,欧洲爆发从神权到人权的革命,中国也出现儒、道、佛与市井文化融合。中国明式家具、欧洲文艺复兴时期的绘画,便是这一时代反映世俗和革新精神的人文艺术的典型代表。然而由于文化根基的不同而表现出人文内涵的显著差异。     

模拟昼夜条件下风速对风干腊肠品质的影响研究

本文通过模拟广东春季昼夜温度、湿度条件,比较不同风速(0.5 m/s,1.0 m/s,自然风)条件下加工的腊肠在理化指标、脂质氧化、风味物质组成及含量等的变化差异,阐明风速对风干腊肠品质的影响,以期为风干腊肠规模化加工、建立人工气候和质量安全控制提供理论依据。研究结果表明,风速是影响腊肠品质的重要因素之一,人工风干脱水的腊肠,干燥速度及p H值的变化均明显快于自然风干腊肠。脂质氧化贯穿于腊肠风干熟化的全过程,提高风速在一定程度上有助于延缓腊肠的酸败,强化风味氨基酸的积累。此外,人工控制腊肠风干的速度有助于延长腊肠的保质期,风干末期腊肠的酸价、过氧化物值和TBA值均比自然风干腊肠低。     

内衬软木复合材料硬度对织物起毛起球的影响

文章通过改变滚箱式起球仪箱体内软木复合材料(即软木/橡胶复合材料)的硬度(40、60、80邵),测试了棉针织物、羊毛针织物和羊绒针织物的起球性能,分析了软木复合材料对测试织物起毛起球性能的影响.实验结果表明:随着测试时间持续增加到120min,棉针织物的起球数由少变多再变少,而羊毛针织物和羊绒针织物的起球数目持续增加.当软木复合材料的硬度从40邵增加到80邵,棉针织物的起球数目增加很小,羊毛针织物的起球数目增加较多,而羊绒针织物的起球数随着软木复合材料硬度的增加而减少.     

Volatile compounds in fresh meats subjected to high pressure processing: Effect of the packaging material

The effect of high pressure treatment (400MPa, 10min at 12°C) on the volatile profile of minced beef and chicken breast, packaged with or without aluminum foil in a multilayer polymeric bag, was investigated. The analysis of the volatile fraction was carried out by dynamic headspace extraction coupled to gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Pressurization produced significant changes in the levels of some volatile compounds presumably coming from microbial activity. Some alcohols and aldehydes decreased, while other compounds, such as 2,3-butanedione and 2-butanone, were more abundant in high pressure processed meats. A significant migration of compounds from the plastic material was observed, mainly branched-chain alkanes and benzene compounds. Two functions built by the principal component analysis explained a high percentage of the variance and could be used to separate the samples into four distinct groups, according to high pressure treatment and packaging material.     

Volatile compounds in dry-cured Serrano ham subjected to high pressure processing. Effect of the packaging material

The effect of high pressure treatment (400 MPa, 10 min at 12 °C) on the volatile profile of Spanish dry-cured Serrano ham, packaged with or without aluminum foil in a multilayer polymeric bag, was investigated. The analysis of the volatile fraction was carried out by dynamic headspace extraction coupled to gas chromatography–mass spectrometry. Pressure treatment only had a slight effect on the volatile fraction of Serrano ham. Most compounds affected by pressurization, such as alkanes (C₉–C₁₂), 2-undecene, 2-nonanone, 1-octen-3-one, 1-heptanol, 2-hexanol, 2-heptanol, ethyl pentanoate, benzaldehyde and styrene, presumably originated from the metabolism of moulds. A significant effect of pressurization on the migration of compounds from the plastic material was found. Linear and branched chain alkanes, alkenes as well as benzene compounds, were generally less abundant in pressurized samples than in untreated samples. A scalping effect was also observed for compounds such as butanal, pentanal, ethyl esters and pyrazines.     

Effect of reaction pH and CuSO4 addition on the formation of catechinone due to oxidation of (+)‐catechin

A novel hair dyeing technique being milder and safer for a human body is desired. The oxidation product of (+)‐catechin, catechinone, was invented as a safer dyestuff for hair colouring under such the situation. The preparation of catechinone by a chemical oxidation is a practical way and the objective of the study is clarify the effect of the solution pH and in the presence or absence of Cu²⁺ on the formation rate and yield of catechinone in order to improve the efficiency of the dye formation. The catechinone formation was monitored by ultraviolet‐visible spectroscopy. Catechinone was prepared chemically from (+)‐catechin in aqueous solution with O₂ gas introduced over a pH range of 7.1–11.7. The rate and amount of the dye formation increase with increasing pH. Dissociation of the hydroxyl group of the catechol part of (+)‐catechin is significant for the oxidation of (+)‐catechin and promotes the dye production. This is because the deprotonated (+)‐catechin has a higher reactivity with O₂. The production of catechinone is accelerated by the addition of CuSO₄ and the production rate reaches the maximum at pH = 8.8. (+)‐Catechin ‐ Cu²⁺ complexes are formed and the formation promotes the oxidation of the catechol part of (+)‐catechin at pH ≤ 8.8. On the other hand, the complex becomes too stable to proceed for the oxidation reaction at pH > 8.8.     

Volatile compounds in Spanish dry-fermented sausage ‘salchichón’ subjected to high pressure processing. Effect of the packaging material

The effect of high pressure treatment (400 MPa, 10 min at 12 °C) on the volatile profile of Spanish dry-fermented sausage ‘salchichón’, packaged with or without aluminium foil in a multilayer polymeric bag, was investigated. The analysis of the volatile fraction was carried out by dynamic headspace extraction coupled to gas chromatography–mass spectrometry. Pressure-treated samples showed significantly higher levels of alcohols, aldehydes and alkanes and lower levels of two methylketones as compared with control samples. An intense migration was observed of compounds from the plastic material into the product, mainly linear and branched-chain alkanes, alkenes and benzene compounds. Most of these migrating compounds were significantly more abundant in pressurized samples than in untreated samples.