Determination of bar parameters caused by cross-shore sediment movement

Waves, topographic features and material properties are known as the most important factors affecting the sediment movement and coastal profiles. In this study, considering wave height (H=6.5, 17, 16, 20, 23, 26 and 30 cm) and period (T=1.46 and 2.03 s), bed slope (m=1/10, 1/15 and 1/25) and sediment diameter (d₅₀=0.18, 0.26, 0.33 and 0.40 mm), cross-shore sediment movement was investigated using a physical model and various offshore bar geometric parameters were determined by the resultant erosion profile. The offshore bar geometric characteristics are the distance between the bar crest and the shoreline, the depth from bar crest to the still-water level, the distance between the equilibrium point and the shoreline, the distance between the closure point and the shoreline, and the bar volume. Dimensional and non-dimensional equations were obtained by using non-linear regression methods through the experimental data and compared with those of previously developed equations. The results have indicated that the proposed equations fit to experimental data better than previously developed equations.     

Immediate profile and planform evolution of a beach nourishment project with hurricane influences

In this study, planform adjustment began during a period of calm weather immediately after nourishment and then the passage of one strong storm caused a substantial portion of the total profile equilibration. Weekly beach profiles, shoreline surveys, and nearshore wave measurements were conducted before, during, and immediately after construction of the 1100-m long Upham Beach nourishment project on the low-energy, west coast of Florida. This project was constructed in three segments: the wide north segment, the central segment, and the narrow south segment. With the exception of the relatively distant passage of Hurricane Charley, calm weather prevailed for 45 days following completion of the south and central segments. Construction of the wide north segment was completed on August 27, 2004. Substantial planform diffusion occurred prior to construction completion via formation of a 300-m long spit extending from the wide north segment. The shoreline orientation was changed abruptly due to this diffusion spit formation, as opposed to the gradual adjustment predicted by most long-term models. Planform adjustment was initiated prior to profile equilibration, and it did not require high-energy conditions. A simple vector sum model for determining the orientation of a potential diffusion spit was developed. This study recommends designing end transitions at the predicted diffusion spit orientation to avoid post-nourishment spit formation during future projects.     

Longshore sorting on a beach under wave action

Sorting of sediment on a beach under wave action takes several forms. Stratified layers of finer and coarser sediment, which depend on wave climate, grain size and beach slope are formed. This complex problem can be simplified by defining the cross-shore and longshore sorting according to the angle between the breaking wave and the coast. In the present study, longshore distribution of sediment as well as corresponding beach profiles was measured in a wave basin. Three-dimensional hydraulic model experiments were performed with regular waves. Eighteen sets of experiments performed in longshore sorting mechanism using two different sand beds. The sorting of the bed material and the formation of armour coats along the beach were defined by grain size distributions and dimensionless parameters for sandy beaches.The rate of sediment transport with grain size sorting was measured in a wave basin. A method introduced sorting process was presented in this study. The sediment rate based on sorting mechanism was also discussed with known methods. It has been found that the non-uniformity of the grain size and hence sorting of the beaches play a very important role in the sand transport due to wave motion in a similar way to the case of steady flow in alluvial channels.     

Determination and control of longshore sediment transport: A case study

The fishery harbor of Karaburun coastal village is located at the south west coast of the Black Sea. The significant waves coming from north eastern direction cause considerable rate of sediment transport along 4 km sandy beach towards the fishery harbor in the region. The resulting sediment deposition near and inside the harbor entrance prevents the boat traffic and cause a vital problem for the harbor operations. In order to determine the level and reasons of the sediment transport, the long-term observations of shoreline changes, the long-term statistical analysis of wind and wave characteristics in the region, and sediment properties have been performed. The data obtained from observations, measurements and analysis were discussed. The long-term statistics of deep water significant wave heights for each direction was discussed by comparing the results obtained from different data sources and methods. For shoreline evolution, the numerical study using one-line model was applied to describe the shoreline changes with respect to probable wave conditions. Initial shoreline was obtained from the digitized image in 1996 since there was no previous shoreline measurement of the site. The results were compared using the techniques of remote sensing obtained from sequent images using IKONOS and IRS1C/D satellites.     

潮致泥沙全沙净输运解析模式

泥沙运动作为水流和底床相互作用的纽带,是河流、河口及海岸工程研究的重要内容。在潮波作用明显的河口、海岸地区,周期性的动力作用下的泥沙运动具有往复和可逆的特征,因此研究这类水域的泥沙的净输运更具有实际的意义。基于泥沙输运和流速呈指数关系假设,建立潮流环境下的泥沙全沙净输运的解析解公式,并对该公式的计算结果和数值计算以及数学模型的结果进行了检验和验证,结果表明本研究提出的公式能较好地反应潮流环境下的泥沙净输运。由此,基于本公式采用潮流分潮调和常数可计算得到全沙净输运,并可以分析各分潮流及其相互作用与泥沙净输运的关系。研究结果显示,在受径流影响较大的半日潮河口,S2、MS4、M2三潮相互作用对全沙净输运的贡献显著高于通常的潮流不对称作用,即M2、M4的相互作用。此外,河口区域径流导致的余流对泥沙净输运的贡献不可忽略,特别是在洪季,大径流量条件下往往导致余流较大,其对泥沙净输运的贡献所占比例较大。     

Diagnosis of the sediment transport in the Belgian Coastal Zone

Estimating the age of particles in marine environment constitutes an invaluable tool to understand the interactions between complex flows and sediment dynamics, particularly in highly energetic coastal areas such as the Belgian Coastal Zone (Southern Bight in the North Sea). To this end, the Constituent Age and Residence time Theory – CART – introduced by Delhez, E.J.M., Campin, J.-M., Hirst, A.C., Deleersnijder, E. [1999a. Toward a general theory of the age in ocean modelling. Ocean Modelling 1, 17–27] for passive water constituents is extended to describe the sediment dynamics. It is then used in combination with a three-dimensional coupled hydrodynamic-sediment transport model to investigate sediment processes in the Belgian Coastal Zone focusing on two complementary aspects of the sediment dynamics: the internal sediment motion and redistribution within the Belgian coast; and the horizontal transport.     

Applicability of sediment transport models to evaluate medium term evolution of tidal inlet systems

This paper derives local formulae to estimate bed roughness and suspended transport and present a method to calculate net sediment transport at tidal inlet systems, combining field data and a range of well established empirical formulations. To accomplish this, measurements spanning a spring-tidal cycle of mean water levels, waves, near-bed flow turbulence and bed forms were obtained from the Ancão Inlet, Ria Formosa lagoon system, Portugal. High-resolution hydrodynamic data were gathered using acoustic equipments and by measuring sediment properties (grain-size diameter and bed form dimensions) under fair-weather conditions. The results compared favourably with available direct and indirect field observations of sediment transport rates. The approach appears to be robust and widely applicable and so can be applied to the same conditions in any tidal inlet system. This is of particular importance when attempting to understand sediment transport at inlet mouths, and has practical applications in a range of coastal engineering and coastal management areas concerned with navigation safety, coastal erosion, ecosystem health and water quality. The study discusses the applicability of the method on evaluating system flushing capacity, giving important insights on multiple inlet evolution, particularly with regard to their persistence through time. The methodological framework can be applied to assess the long-term stability of single- and multiple-inlet systems, provided that estimates of sediment storage at ebb-tidal deltas are available and sediment transport estimates during storm events are statistically considered.     

Prediction of berm geometry using a set of laboratory tests combined with teaching–learning-based optimization and artificial bee colony algorithms

Understanding sediment movement in coastal areas is crucial in planning the stability of coastal structures, the recovery of coastal areas, and the formation of new coast. Accretion or erosion profiles form as a result of sediment movement. The characteristics of these profiles depend on the bed slope, wave conditions, and sediment properties. Here, experimental studies were performed in a wave flume with regular waves, considering different values for the wave height (H₀), wave period (T), bed slope (m), and mean sediment diameter (d₅₀). Accretion profiles developed in these experiments, and the geometric parameters of the resulting berms were determined. Teaching–learning-based optimization (TLBO) and artificial bee colony (ABC) algorithms were applied to regression functions of the data from the physical model. Dimensional and dimensionless equations were found for each parameter. These equations were compared to data from the physical model, to determine the best equation for each parameter and to evaluate the performances of the TLBO and ABC algorithms in the estimation of the berm parameters. Compared to the ABC algorithm, the TLBO algorithm provided better accuracy in estimating the berm parameters. Overall, the equations successfully determined the berm parameters.     

烟台套子湾海滩泥沙运动方向研究

采用筛析法分析了套子湾中滩面上66个表层样品的粒度。结果表明:套子湾海滩沉积物为中、细砂,为典型海滩砂。标准偏差较小,分选较好至好;频率曲线呈近正态分布,稍呈负偏;峰度中等至较窄。平均粒径和标准偏差由夹河口向东西两侧海滩变小,由于突堤的阻挡,海滩沿岸沉积物在突堤东侧产生堆积,西侧侵蚀。粒度特征和海滩地貌变化显示:套子湾海滩沉积物是由夹河口向东西两侧发生沿岸运移。为烟台开发区海水浴场的海滩养护以及芝罘岛连岛沙坝海岸的合理利用提供科学依据。     

季节性波浪动力作用下南湾弧形岸滩泥沙横向输运特征

响应季节性波候作用的泥沙输运特征是研究弧形海滩地貌变化及港工建筑的重要内容。基于南湾弧形海滩实际测量的冬、夏各11条剖面高程变化资料,将其划分为低潮间带、低中潮带、中潮带、高潮间带、低冲流带、中冲流带及其海滩后滨等7带,在此基础上利用经验正交函数(EOF)方法对各个带的体积变化进行分析,结果表明:1)南湾弧形海滩的泥沙以单向输运为主,并具有季节性变化特征,其中冬季泥沙在东南浪作用下,自陆向海输运,夏季泥沙在西南浪作用下自海向陆输运;2)南湾弧形海滩的泥沙分别在高潮带与中潮带、低冲流带与中冲流带之间存在频繁的双向输运;3)南湾弧形海滩不同岸段泥沙的横向输运因岬角的遮蔽能力、地形以及波浪作用的方向而有所差异。     

Equilibrium beach profile model for perched beaches

A beach profile equilibrium model for perched beaches is presented. The model assumes that wave reflection at the seaward and leeward sides of the breakwater is the most important process that modifies Dean's equilibrium profile model for non-perched beaches. The influence of wave breaking over the submerged structure is also discussed. Several laboratory data sets are used to analyze the merit of the proposed model for describing the equilibrium condition of a perched beach. A good comparison is obtained. Results show that if the ratio between the water depth above the submerged structure, d, and the water depth at the toe of the structure, h_e, is large, d/h_e>0.5, only minor advance of the shoreline is achieved with the construction of a toe structure. A considerable advance is obtained for d/h_e less that 0.1. In these situations, however, resonant effects may result in an inefficient structure. The proposed model is used to provide an estimation for the required sand volume and the associated beach advance for the case of narrow breakwaters.     

A numerical model of beach morphological evolution due to waves and currents in the vicinity of coastal structures

A numerical model was developed of beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. The model includes five sub-models for random wave transformation, surface roller development, nearshore wave-induced currents, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. The model was validated using high-quality data sets obtained during experiments with a T-head groin and a detached breakwater in the basin of the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in Vicksburg, Miss, USA. The simulations showed that the model reproduced well the wave conditions, wave-induced currents, and beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. Both salient and tombolo formation behind a T-head groin and a detached breakwater were simulated with good agreement compared to the measurements.     

Cohesive sediment transport in the 3D-hydrodynamic-baroclinic circulation model,: study case for idealized tidal inlet

This work provides a general hydrodynamic circulation model that can be used to understand density driven flows, which may arise in the case of suspension of fine-grained materials. The research is expected to provide a better understanding of the characteristics of spatial and temporal variability of current, which is associated with the period of ebb and flood tidal cycles.The model development includes extending the existing three-dimensional (3D) ADCIRC model with (1) baroclinic forcing term and (2) transport module of suspended and soluble materials. The transport module covers the erosion, material suspension and deposition processes for cohesive type sediment. In the case of an idealized tidal inlet in stratified water, the inclusion of baroclinic term can demonstrate the prevailing longshore sediment transport. It is shown that the model has application to the transport of the cohesive sediments from the mouth of the Mississippi River along the north shore of the Gulf of Mexico towards and along the Texas coast.     

Field measurements of longshore sediment transport during storms

This paper presents an analysis of longshore sediment transport (LST) rates based on an accumulation of data obtained during five storms. Direct measurements of velocities and suspended sediment concentration were conducted at a minimum of nine positions across a barred profile in waves up to H_m0=3.5 m to provide a measure of the cross-shore distribution and total suspended-load sediment transport rates. The study was conducted at the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station's Field Research Facility, located in Duck, NC. Measurements were made using the Sensor Insertion System (SIS) which provides an economical means to collect the required information. The largest LST rate computed from the measurements was 1780 m³ h⁻¹. Although the cross-shore distribution of the LST varied, it most often had two peaks associated with wave shoaling and breaking at the bar and near the beach. Comparisons of measurement results with predictions using the ‘CERC' LST formula show the predicted rates were sometimes higher and other times lower; suggesting that additional terms may be required for short term predictions during storms. Comparisons to a ‘Bagnold' type formulation, which included a velocity term that could account for wind and other effects on LST, show better agreement for at least one of the storms. These results are intended to help fill a void of information documenting the cross-shore distribution and LST rates, particularly during storms.     

Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves,wave groups and random waves

New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Physical model testing was performed in the large-scale CIEM wave flume at UPC, Barcelona, as part of the SUSCO (swash zone response under grouping storm conditions) experiment in the Hydralab III program (Vicinanza et al., 2010). Fourteen different wave conditions were used, encompassing monochromatic waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves. The experiments were designed specifically to compare variations in beach profile evolution between monochromatic waves and unsteady waves with the same mean energy flux. Each test commenced with approximately the same initial profile. The monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves, and then subsequently substituted with bichromatic wave groups with different bandwidth and with random waves with varying groupiness. Beach profile measurements were made at half-hourly and hourly intervals, from which net cross-shore transport rates were calculated for the different wave conditions. Pairs of experiments with slightly different bandwidth or wave grouping show very similar net cross-shore sediment transport patterns, giving high confidence to the data set. Consistent with recent small-scale experiments, the data clearly show that in comparison to monochromatic conditions the bichromatic wave groups reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport during erosive conditions. The random waves have a similar influence to the bichromatic wave groups, promoting offshore transport, in comparison to the monochromatic conditions. The data also indicate that the free long waves promote onshore transport, but the conclusions are more tentative as a result of a few errors in the test schedule and modifications to the setup which reduced testing time. The experiments suggest that the inclusion of long wave and wave group sediment transport is important for improved near-shore morphological modeling of cross-shore beach profile evolution, and they provide a very comprehensive and controlled series of tests for evaluating numerical models. It is suggested that the large change in the beach response between monochromatic conditions and wave group conditions is a result of the increased significant and maximum wave heights in the wave groups, as much as the presence of the forced and free long waves induced by the groupiness. The equilibrium state model concept can provide a heuristic explanation of the influence of the wave groups on the bulk beach profile response if their effective relative fall velocity is larger than that of monochromatic waves with the same incident energy flux.     

沙质海岸沿岸输沙率计算方法研究进展

准确预测波浪作用下沿岸输沙率是沙质海岸研究领域的重要科学问题。根据数十年来国内外沿岸输沙率公式的研究进展,按研究方法对各项成果进行分类,并兼顾时间逻辑,回顾了各研究方法的发展历程及其代表性成果。对各项成果的理论基础、考虑因素、资料来源等方面进行了探讨,并采用现场原型沙、室内原型沙和室内轻质沙等实测资料,对国内外常用公式的预测准确性进行了检验。结果表明,孙林云公式与各项实测资料的吻合程度最高,在众多沿岸输沙率公式中具有明显的先进性。在此基础上,对未来可进一步深化研究的方向作出了展望。     

近岸人工沙坝的剖面演变规律和泥沙输运机制研究综述

近岸人工沙坝养滩是一种重要的海滩养护手段,开展人工沙坝地形演变研究是海岸带保护修复工程的重要需求。本文围绕不同动力条件下的人工沙坝横向迁移规律、形态演变模式、地貌耦合规律和水沙运动机制等理论层面,以及人工沙坝平衡剖面描述和演变过程数值模拟等方法层面,总结了近年来关于人工沙坝剖面演变规律和泥沙输运机制的国内外研究进展,并提出了关键过程机理深化、模拟预测方法改进和实际养滩工程应用等方面的今后研究重点。     

A new formula for the total longshore sediment transport rate

A new predictive formula for the total longshore sediment transport (LST) rate was developed from principles of sediment transport physics assuming that breaking waves mobilize the sediment, which is subsequently moved by a mean current. Six high-quality data sets on hydrodynamics and sediment transport collected during both field and laboratory conditions were employed to evaluate the predictive capability of the new formula. The main parameter of the formula (a transport coefficient), which represents the efficiency of the waves in keeping sand grains in suspension, was expressed through a Dean number based on dimensional analysis. The new formula yields predictions that lie within a factor of 0.5 to 2 of the measured values for 62% of the data points, which is higher than other commonly employed formulas for the LST rate such as the CERC equation or the formulas developed by Inman–Bagnold and Kamphuis, respectively. The new formula is well suited for practical applications in coastal areas, as well as for numerical modeling of sediment transport and shoreline change in the nearshore.     

粤西海陵湾底质沉积特征与泥沙输运路径

在分析粤西海陵湾表层沉积物分布特征的基础上,应用泥沙搬运矢量模型计算了泥沙净输运趋势。结果表明,海区南北两端均存在着一个泥沙聚集区,北侧是径流与涨潮上潮流交绥的响应,南侧是波浪与落潮下泄流交绥的响应。分选性好的中部广大区域受单一动力作用,泥沙净输移方向由北指向南。     

Number of tracers required for the measurement of longshore transport distance on a shingle beach

The aim of this study was to identify a method for determining the number of tracer particles required to define the mean longshore transport distance of indigenous littoral shingle with a particular level of precision. A method is presented which can be applied to existing tracer data to determine both the precision of the measurements collected and the number of tracers required to achieve a particular level of precision. The method, which utilises well established statistical relationships, is demonstrated by applying it to archive tracer data. The study demonstrates the sensitivity of the number of tracers to the variance of the transport distances of indigenous particles at the site and the precision with which the investigator wishes to define the mean. It is anticipated that application of the method by other practitioners, in the future, will allow a dataset to develop which can be used alongside the method presented here to allow the number of tracers required for a study to be estimated prior to entering the field. Results are presented to initiate the development of this dataset and a “look-up chart” derived using the method is given to aid its application.