物化环境对化妆品液晶性的影响

以硬脂酸蔗糖酯和失水山梨醇硬脂酸酯的复配物 (SSE) /C16～ 18醇 /甘油为复合乳化剂制备液晶型化妆品乳液。考察了柠檬酸、pH值、离子强度和剪切速率对该乳液体系的稳定性和液晶性的影响。实验条件下 ,各体系对柠檬酸的敏感性比较强 ,但与pH值的关系不明显。加入柠檬酸对液晶数量和形状均有影响 ,柠檬酸的加入量大于 0 0 1%时乳液变稀 ,液晶减少。NaCl的离子强度效应主要是对乳液粒径及稳定性的影响 ,对液晶性影响不大。NaCl加入量≤ 0 3 %对乳状液及液晶的形成并无不良影响 ;NaCl加入量 >0 3 %乳液粒径明显变粗。乳状液粒子的粒径随剪切速率的减小而增大 ,粒径 <5 μm时液晶性较好。     

不同种类乳化体系层状液晶乳液的制备和性能研究

采用不同种类乳化体系制备层状液晶乳液,并考察了脂肪醇对乳液层状液晶结构的影响,进一步对各体系的流变性能和稳定性进行了考察。实验结果表明：不同碳链脂肪醇均有利于不同种类乳化体系形成较为规整、均一的液晶结构,其中山嵛醇对甘油硬脂酸酯/鲸蜡硬脂醇/硬脂酰乳酰乳酸钠（TRIsatin）和聚甘油-2硬脂酸酯/甘油硬脂酸酯/硬脂醇（Poly Aquol-2W）乳化体系的促进效果较好。三种不同种类乳化体系的液晶乳液均表现出切力变稀、触变性和黏弹性,TRIsatin体系液晶乳液表现出较大的触变性;TRIsatin体系的储能模量（G’）、损耗模量（G’’）、屈服值均较大,能够抵抗一定的外力而不容易发生形变。快速稳定性分析结果表明,TRIsatin和Poly Aquol-2W体系的不稳定系数较小,产品的长期稳定性较好。     

聚甘油脂肪酸酯类乳化剂乳化性能的研究

探讨了3种不同HLB值的乳化剂聚甘油-10硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-6二硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-10二棕榈酸酯的乳化能力,实验结果表明:3种乳化剂配制的乳液在常温及50℃情况下,一个月均保持较好的稳定性;聚甘油-10二棕榈酸酯制备的乳液保湿性能优于其他两个乳化剂;聚甘油-6二硬脂酸酯制备的乳液在显微镜观察下,分散性较好,乳液粒径分布较小。     

一种美白乳液的制备与稳定性研究

通过对含美白剂十一碳烯酰基苯丙氨酸和苯乙基间苯二酚的乳化体系稳定性研究,探讨了配方中乳化剂种类与用量、油脂溶解能力、增稠体系选择、均质乳化参数控制等主要影响因素,得出了稳定美白乳液配方和工艺参数为:乳化剂采用质量分数为2.00%的PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、质量分数为1.00%的甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯和质量分数为0.30%的硬脂酰谷氨酸钠(质量分数为1.50%的鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾);油脂选用质量分数为3.00%的甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯和质量分数为7.00%的辛基十二醇;增稠剂选用质量分数为2.00%的硬脂酸、质量分数为0.40%的丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物和质量分数为0.10%的黄原胶,乳化温度85℃,均质速度9 000 r·min-1。     

聚甘油单硬脂酸酯乳化二甲基硅油及乳液表征

用聚甘油单硬脂酸酯复配乳化1 Pa.s的二甲基硅油,考察复配乳化剂的亲水亲油平衡值(HLB)对乳液体积平均粒径、乳液黏度、乳液离心稳定性的影响以及乳液的耐高温稳定性。结果表明:复配乳化剂HLB值对乳液体积平均粒径、黏度、离心稳定性的影响显著,选择高聚合度的亲水型乳化剂和高聚合度的亲油型乳化剂进行复配乳化,有利于形成稳定的硅油乳液。最佳乳化条件为乳化剂(二聚甘油单硬酯和八聚甘油单硬脂酸酯,HLB=10.5)、硅油和水的质量比为7∶23∶70。在最佳乳化条件下制得的乳液体积平均粒径为8.06μm,黏度为387 mPa.s,固相质量分数差为2.91%。乳液高温稳定性良好,在110℃保持5 h,乳液体积平均粒径增大至11.63μm,固相质量分数差增大至6.12%。     

液晶乳液制备的影响因素及其在化妆品中的应用

液晶乳化体系是一类新型的载体体系,可包裹功效物质,是化妆品乳液制备的研究热点。文章概述了常见的液晶乳化剂以及液晶乳状液制备的影响因素,包括配方组成成分、乳化方法;总结了液晶乳液在化妆品中的应用优势,包括化妆品的安全性、功效性、感官性和稳定性;介绍了液晶乳液在不同功效化妆品中的应用情况,包括保湿产品、防晒产品,旨在为液晶乳液的制备及应用提供理论依据。     

香精为油相液晶乳液的相行为

采用偏光显微镜观察及测定电导率的方法研究了由聚氧乙烯醚失水山梨醇脂肪酸酯(APS)、失水山梨醇脂肪酸酯(SE)、十八醇、油和水组成体系的相行为。结果表明,体系在乳化剂、助乳化剂和油相含量低时可形成水包油型球形层状液晶乳液LO1相,随着助乳化剂和油的含量增加,体系将形成球形层状LO1(2)与平面层状Lβ的混合相,然后转变成油包水型球形层状液晶乳液LO2。当m(APS)∶m(SE)=4∶1时,体系可形成稳定的水包油型及油包水型球形层状液晶乳液。     

双生表面活性剂微乳液的制备及其相行为研究

制备了双生表面活性剂α-磺基硬脂酸聚乙二醇双酯钠盐/醇/正辛烷/水微乳液体系,绘制了其拟三元相图,探讨了不同碳链长度的醇及0.1mol/LKCl、NaOH、HCl溶液对微乳区域的影响,利用电导率分析了微乳液的结构类型。结果表明:以α-磺基硬脂酸聚乙二醇双酯钠盐作为乳化剂,可以制备稳定的微乳液。在中等链长范围内,作为助表面活性剂的醇类,链长的比链短的醇具有更好的助活作用。电解质溶液一般使微乳区域缩小,以电解质溶液或纯水为分散介质的微乳液的电导率变化趋势基本相同。     

聚丙烯酸酯乳液用有机硅消泡剂的制备及性能研究

先采用二甲基硅油、MQ硅树脂和二氧化硅制得硅膏，再与聚醚、聚醚改性硅油、乳化剂、水和增稠剂混合制得乳液型有机硅消泡剂。探讨了二氧化硅种类及其在硅膏中用量，硅膏用量，聚醚的种类、摩尔质量和用量对有机硅消泡剂消泡性能及抑泡性能的影响，还考察了聚醚改性硅油HLB值和用量、乳化剂种类和用量对有机硅消泡剂在聚丙烯酸酯乳液中稳定性的影响。结果表明，有机硅消泡剂的较佳制备条件为：二氧化硅选择R106,二氧化硅用量为5份，硅膏用量12份，聚醚选择平均摩尔质量3 000 g/mol的十八醇聚醚，聚醚用量5份，聚醚改性硅油HLB值为10,聚醚改性硅油用量8份，乳化剂选择异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚，乳化剂用量3份。此时，制得的乳液型有机硅消泡剂的消泡时间为3.4 s,抑泡体积为400 mL,应用于聚丙烯酸酯乳液时的稳定性良好。     

反相乳液法合成可膨胀再湿性胶粘剂

以丙烯酰胺(AM)为主单体,甲基丙烯酸二甲胺基乙酯(DMAM)为功能性单体,采用反相乳液聚合方法,制备可吸水膨胀的再湿性胶粘剂。讨论了分散介质、水相的pH值、乳化剂种类、引发剂种类和用量、反应温度和交联剂用量对产物粘度、亲水膨胀性能、剥离强度和稳定性的影响。结果表明,当采用煤油为分散介质。失水山梨醇油酸酯(Span80)和失水山梨醇单月桂酸酯(Span20)作为乳化剂,采用油性和水性复合引发体系,交联剂用量为单体量的0．08％-0．12％,水相pH值在6．0-7．5时,可获得乳液体系稳定、亲水膨胀性能优良,返湿速度快的胶粘剂。     

配方组成对烷基糖苷体系液晶形成的影响

研究了配方组成对烷基糖苷乳化体系液晶形成的影响,并针对优化体系研究了其相行为,主要研究了助乳化剂和油质原料对体系液晶形成的影响。实验结果表明,在助乳化剂与烷基糖苷的复配过程中,硬脂酰谷氨酸钠和十二烷基硫酸钠有较好的助乳化作用,且对液晶的形成影响不大。在所研究的五种油质原料中,十六～十八醇可以很好的促进液晶结构的形成;极性的PPG-15硬脂醚与十八酸不利于液晶的形成;而非极性的白油则不影响体系液晶结构的形成。同时通过对烷基糖苷-十六～十八醇-硬脂酰谷氨酸钠/去离子水相行为的研究,发现此体系在任意比例范围内都会形成液晶。     

Characterization of wax esters in the roe oil of amber fish,Seriola aureovittata

The wax esters of the roe oil of the amber fish,Seriola aureovittata, have been resolved by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) in the silver-ion mode. Each of the fractions collected was transmethylated, and the fatty acids and alcohols were identified by gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (GC/MS) as the picolinyl esters and nicotinates, respectively. Their compositions were determined by GC. The fatty acid composition is complex, and the main components are C18:1n-9 (35.5 mol%), C22:6n-3 (20.3 mol%), and C16:1n-7 (10.7 mol%), while fatty alcohols are limited to saturated (C16:0, 60.3 mol%; C18:0, 15.3 mol%; C14:0, 5.1 mol%) and monoenoic alcohols (C18:1n-9, 6.5 mol%; C16:1n-7, 4.5 mol%) with traces (<0.1 mol%) of polyunsaturated fatty alcohols such as C20:3n-3, C20:4n-6, C20:5n-3, and C22:5n-3. Silver-ion HPLC exhibited excellent resolution in which fractions were resolved on the basis of the number and configuration of double bonds as well as the distribution pattern between the acid and alcohol moieties of the molecules with a given number of double bonds. The main wax ester fraction are those of monoenoic acid-saturated alcohol species, hexaenoic acid/saturated alcohol species, and pentaenoic acid/saturated alcohol species. Appreciable specificity was observed in the esterification of fatty acids with alcohols, and surprisingly, no saturated acid-monoenoic alcohol species were detected.     

配方组成及物化环境对烷基糖苷乳化体系液晶形成的影响

系统地研究了配方组成及物化环境对烷基糖苷类乳化剂体系液晶形成的影响,探讨了可能的影响机理。配方组成主要包括4种不同种类的乳化剂、5种不同分子结构的助乳化剂、4种不同极性的油脂和4种不同分子结构的聚合物及其用量,物化环境主要包括p H及离子强度,在相同的实验条件下均质乳化获得液晶体系。实验结果表明:4种乳化剂中,花生醇葡糖苷所形成的液晶结构单元较多、尺寸较大,且结构规整;5种助乳化剂中,菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯可以有效促进液晶结构的形成,相对提高乳液稳定性;4种油脂中,白油所形成的液晶结构单元最多,尺寸较小且均匀;4种聚合物均可促进烷基糖苷类乳化剂液晶结构的形成,且随着聚合物质量分数的增加,液晶结构单元增多、尺寸更小且均匀;pH及离子强度对体系的液晶形成没有明显影响;然而,高离子强度(w(NaCl)0.3%)会影响液晶乳液的稳定性。     

Application of silver-based dihydric alcohol to the extraction of methyl linolenate with high extractability and stability replacing ionic liquids

A novel silver-based dihydric alcohol extractant was substituted for ionic liquids to enrich methyl linolenate (C18-3) from tallow seed oil methyl ester in this study. The interactions among dihydric alcohol, Ag(I) and C18-3 were explored by FT-IR spectroscopy. The effects of dihydric alcohol structure, carrier Ag (I) concentration, temperature and initial feed concentration on extraction yield and selectivity were reported. The good extraction performance was achieved by 1,4-butanediol containing AgBF₄. The complexation of Ag (I) with C18-3 was dominant in extraction operation rather than physical partition. Furthermore, a multi-step reverse extraction method was proposed to obtain C18-3 product and regenerate the extractant. 1-Hexene as the stripping phase can facilitate C18-3 reverse extraction. The content of C18-3 in the product was up to 93.36%, and the yield was 73.76%. This work opened a new route for the utilization of the dihydric alcohol properties to manipulate the carrier efficiency for extracting unsaturated fatty acid methyl esters at a lower cost.     

反应性聚硅氧烷微乳液的合成研究

采用微乳液聚合法,以八甲基环四硅氧烷(D4)、γ-甲基丙烯酰氧基丙基三甲氧基硅烷(KH-570)为原料,合成半透明的反应性聚硅氧烷微乳液,研究了聚合工艺因素对单体转化率、乳液透射率、粒径及乳液稳定性的影响。结果表明,当D4用量为10%,DBSA用量为12%(占D4),KH-570用量为6%(占D4),乳化剂SDS、AEO-7、AEO-9按质量比4∶2∶1复合,用量为6%,助乳化剂正丁醇用量为0.5%,温度为80~85℃,反应时间为5 h时,所制备的反应性聚硅氧烷微乳液单体转化率可达85.63%,外观半透明,无漂油,粒径在40~50 nm。     

Effect of double bond position in octadecenoates upon hydrolysis by pancreatic lipase

Fifteen triacylglycerols containing 12∶0, 14∶0, 16∶0, 18∶2 and one positional isomer ofcis-18∶1 were hydrolyzed by pancreatic lipase (EC 3.1.1.3, glycerol ester hydrolase). The fatty acids in the products of lipolysis were identified and measured by gas liquid chromatography. The substrates containing the Δ2 through Δ7 isomers of 18∶1 were resistant to pancreatic lipolysis. These isomers accumulated in the di- and residual triacylglycerols and were diminished in the free fatty acids. The discrimination was greates against the Δ5 isomer. Scientific Contribution No. 504. Agricultural Experiment Station, University of Connecticut, Storrs, Conn. 06268.     

Lipase G-Catalyzed synthesis of monoglycerides in organic solvent and analysis by HPLC

Monoglycerides were synthesized with Lipase G fromPenicillium sp. as biocatalyst. This enzyme successfully catalyzed the esterification of glycerol with oleic acid (18:1 n-9) or eicosapentaenoic acid, EPA (20:5 n-3) in hexane. Esterification at 40°C for 24 hr resulted in 86.3 mol% and 64.3 mol% incorporation of 18:1 n-9 and 20:5 n-3, respectively. Lipase GC fromGeotrichum candidum was not effective in esterifying the fatty acids under the present experimental conditions. Lipase G was able to incorporate 98.5 mol% and 98.1 mol% of 18:1 n-9 onto glycerol in 24 hr or less at 25°C and 37°C, respectively, in the absence of molecular sieve 4A. The product formed was analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with a combined evaporative light scattering mass detector (ELSD) and ultraviolet detection at 206 nm. The result of this study demonstrates that Lipase G is capable of incorporating long-chain fatty acids of potential health benefit onto glycerol.     

Microbial Conversion of Vegetable Oil to Rare Unsaturated Fatty Acids and Fatty Alcohols by an <Emphasis Type="Italic">Aeromonas hydrophila</Emphasis> Isolate

We isolated two new microorganisms capable of converting vegetable oil to several rare unsaturated fatty acids and rare unsaturated fatty alcohols from a soil sample. The strains were identified as belonging to the same genus and species, Aeromonas hydrophila. The rare unsaturated fatty acids and rare unsaturated fatty alcohols were accumulated as a wax ester form by the strains. Compared to other strains, the A. hydrophila isolates effectively decreased fatty acid chain lengths and converted rapeseed oil, which is rich in 9-C18:1 fatty acid, into rare fatty acids, such as 7-C16:1 fatty acid and 5-C14:1 fatty acid. Furthermore, the A. hydrophila isolates converted the resulting fatty acids to rare unsaturated fatty alcohols, such as 7-C16:1 fatty alcohol and 5-C14:1 fatty alcohol. The isolates also converted safflower oil, which is rich in 9,12-C18:2 fatty acid, to 7,10-C16:2 fatty acid, 5,8-C14:2 fatty acid, 9,12-C18:2 fatty alcohol, 7,10-C16:2 fatty alcohol, and 5,8-C14:2 fatty alcohol. 7,10,13-C16:3 fatty acid, 9,12,15-C18:3 fatty alcohol, and 7,10,13-C16:3 fatty alcohol were also converted from linseed oil, which is rich in 9,12,15-C18:3 fatty acid, by the A. hydrophila isolates. These fatty acids and fatty alcohols are rarely found in natural oils. Since decreasing fatty acid carbon chain lengths from the carboxyl end and reducing unsaturated fatty acids to unsaturated fatty alcohols are both difficult reactions to accomplish by chemical means, we suggest that these A. hydrophila isolates may facilitate introduction of new bioprocess for producing rare unsaturated fatty acids and rare unsaturated fatty alcohols, especially fatty alcohols harboring more than two double bonds.     

Fatty acid composition and cyclopropene fatty acid content of China-chestnuts (Sterculia monosperma,ventenat)

The China-chestnuts (Sterculia monosperma, Ventenat) were examined for their fatty acid composition by gas liquid chromatography, infrared and nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy. The oil in nuts contained cyclopropene fatty acids (CPFA) determined as silver nitrate derivatives of their esters. The values (area %) for the major fatty acids as methyl esters were 23.47% C16:0, 1.25% C16:1, 2.56% C18:0, 24.89% C18:1, 18.24% C18:2, 5.40% dihydrosterculic, 3.21% C18:3 + C20:0 and 19.15% sterculic. The proportion of CPFA in the oil did not decrease upon cooking the nuts.     

蓖麻油和环氧树脂改性水性聚氨酯-丙烯酸酯的合成与表征

以甲苯二异氰酸酯(TD I)、聚醚型多元醇(N210)、2,2-二羟甲基丙酸(DMPA)、甲基丙烯酸甲酯(MMA)等为主要原料,蓖麻油(C.O.)和脂肪族环氧树脂(RE)为交联剂,以原位乳液聚合法制备出聚氨酯-丙烯酸酯(PUA)复合乳液。以无皂乳液聚合法合成了聚丙烯酸酯乳液(PA),再与聚氨酯(PU)乳液机械混合得到PU/PA共混乳液。探讨了蓖麻油C.O.、RE对复合乳液及涂膜性能的影响,烯丙氧基羟丙基磺酸钠(COPS-1)用量对共混乳液和涂膜性能的影响。结果表明,C.O.、RE分别占PU干质量的5.0%～7.0%和2.0%～3.0%,COPS-1占单体总质量的2.0%时,乳液和涂膜综合性能较好。PUA比PU/PA柔韧性好、断裂伸长率高及附着力好,硬度低,成本高。红外光谱分析发现,PUA与PU/PA中—NH—全部形成氢键。TEM观察到,PUA形成核-壳结构的粒子,粒径较小。通过AFM扫描发现,PUA存在硬段与软段的微相分离。