沙质岸滩形态对海平面变化响应的数值研究

该文基于XBeach模型开展海平面上升导致波浪作用强度增加对岸滩演变的影响数值计算研究,通过经典波浪水槽实验及现场观测数据对模型进行验证,结果表明该模型可以准确地模拟波浪向岸传播过程中波高及流速的变化,能较好地预测波浪作用下岸滩的冲淤演化趋势,可用于岸滩演变冲淤变化数值计算研究。在Delta Flume实验的基础上,探讨海平面变化与岸滩演变之间的关系,结果表明,海平面上升和静水面位置变化是引起海岸动力作用强度不同的原因,在波浪作用不同的时间段,海平面上升直接淹没导致的岸线蚀退和海岸动力强度变化导致的岸线蚀退分别占据岸线蚀退总量的主导地位。     

黄河下游河岸横向变形数值模拟研究

通过在水流运动方程中增加弥散应力源项,考虑弯道二次流的影响,引入横向环流输沙对河床冲淤变化的影响,对悬移质不平衡输沙方程、推移质输沙方程及河床变形方程进行了修正.根据黄河的特点建立了模拟河岸侵蚀、崩塌的计算方法,应用所扩展的平面二维数学模型对黄河下游河道的横向变形及河势演变进行了数值模拟,结果表明该计算模型能较好地模拟河道横向变形.     

复杂河口汊道封堵后有关的潮流和泥沙问题

研究了瓯江南口封堵后有关的潮流和泥沙问题。首先对复杂的瓯江口的自然条件和冲淤演变进行了分析;其次,使用二维波浪潮流泥沙数学模型、波浪潮流泥沙物理模型及三维潮流数学模型等研究手段,对瓯江南口现有潜堤加高进行封堵后的二维潮流场、泥沙场、地形冲淤变化和三维潮流场进行了模拟研究,对瓯江泄洪排涝的影响进行了计算和分析。研究结果表明,从对周围水沙环境和瓯江泄洪排涝的影响角度考虑,将现潜堤加高进行南口封堵的方案是可行的。     

黄河下游冬季河床冲淤过程的模拟

本文建立了模拟黄河下游冬季输沙及河床变化的数学模型。根据实测资料对明流（不结冰）情况下的经验输沙公式进行了修正以用于冰盖水流的情况。在本模型中计算了模拟河段内各个断面在每个时段的水流条件、输沙率及河床的断面形态。在河床演变过程中根据河流最小能耗原理对河宽的变化进行了调整。冲淤沿断面的横向分布是根据有效拖曳力的原则分配的。模拟结果与实测资料相当吻合。     

钱塘江尖山河湾97围区堤前滩地冲淤预测

通过应用水深平均的二维水流数学模型来计算各处围涂方案的流场，根据工程前后流场的变化情况分析预测尖山段治江促淤围涂９７围区工程堤前滩地的冲淤变化。     

二维泥沙数学模型在赣江大堤南昌段改线中的应用

采用平面二维水流泥沙数学模型计算了赣江大堤南昌段堤线改线对河段水流运动及河床冲淤的影响。在运用实测资料对该数学模型进行河段水面线，断面流速分布，汊道分流比和河床冲淤分布验证的基础上，计算了堤线改线工程前，后河段洪水水位壅高，断面流速分布变化，取土料场回淤等。     

黄河下游平面二维非恒定输沙数学模型:II—模型验证

采用黄河下游1982年洪水资料,选取花园口至夹河滩河段为计算区域,对所建模型进行了验证计算,结果表明本模型计算的洪峰传播过程,水位变化过程及含沙量变化过程等均与实测结果接近,流速场、主流线等也较符合实际。从而证明了所建立起的平面二维非恒定输沙数学模型与相应的数值计算方法能够模拟黄河下游河道水沙演进过程及河床冲淤变形规律。     

岛群海域环境下泥沙运动及地形冲淤变化数值模拟研究

建立波浪、潮流共同作用下泥沙运动及地形冲淤积变化数学模型,并根据2007年4月份实测水文泥沙资料对模型进行了验证,验证表明,潮位、垂线流速、流向及含沙量过程的计算值与实测值吻合良好;波浪、潮流共同作用下悬沙引起的冲淤变化与实测冲淤分布趋势基本一致,较好地复演了洋山港工程建设后海域流场、含沙量场和地形变化.运用该模型对洋山深水港西港区工程方案进行了数学模型研究,研究表明,汊道方案实施后,由于颗珠山汉道的存在,使得通道内水流向北偏移,使得通道北侧西部流速较工程前流速有所增加,使西港区地形基本保持冲淤平衡略有冲刷;颗珠山汊道的存在,能够继续保持目前通道南侧淤积,北部刷深的格局,对西部港区的建设是有利的.     

黄河下游花园口～孙口河段水沙运动仿真模型开发研究

黄河下游洪水演进受滩槽冲淤、生产堤状况与滩地调蓄作用的影响非常显著。花园口～孙口河段水沙运动仿真模型以二维不恒定流与不平衡输沙理论为基础，采用无结构不规则网格，分段建模，联接运行，能较好适应河势的变化。模型具备动态图象显示和人机对话功能，可在计算中较好模拟生产堤溃决或抢险堵口加高等现象。模型对滩槽冲淤具有一定的自调节的能力，增强了模型对黄河来水来沙变幅大的适应能力。模型以“82.8”与“96.8”两场洪水的实测资料作了验证，结果吻合良好。     

黄河下游花园口—孙口河段水沙运动仿真模型开发研究

黄河下游洪水演进受滩槽冲淤、生产堤状况与滩地调蓄作用的影响非常显著．花园口～孙口河段水沙运动仿真模型以二维不恒定流与不平衡输沙理论为基础，采用无结构不规则网格，分段建模，联接运行，能较好适应河势的变化．模型具备动态图象显示和人机对话功能，可在计算中较好模拟生产堤溃决或抢险堵口加高等现象．模型对滩槽冲淤具有一定的自调节的能力，增强了模型对黄河来水来沙变幅大的适应能力．模型以“８２８”与“９６８”两场洪水的实测资料作了验证，结果吻合良好     

Performance of a data-driven technique applied to changes in wave height and its effect on beach response

In this study the medium-term response of beach profiles was investigated at two sites: a gently sloping sandy beach and a steeper mixed sand and gravel beach. The former is the Duck site in North Carolina, on the east coast of the USA, which is exposed to Atlantic Ocean swells and storm waves, and the latter is the Milford-on-Sea site at Christchurch Bay, on the south coast of England, which is partially sheltered from Atlantic swells but has a directionally bimodal wave exposure. The data sets comprise detailed bathymetric surveys of beach profiles covering a period of more than 25 years for the Duck site and over 18 years for the Milford-on-Sea site. The structure of the data sets and the data-driven methods are described. Canonical correlation analysis(CCA) was used to find linkages between the wave characteristics and beach profiles. The sensitivity of the linkages was investigated by deploying a wave height threshold to filter out the smaller waves incrementally. The results of the analysis indicate that, for the gently sloping sandy beach, waves of all heights are important to the morphological response. For the mixed sand and gravel beach, filtering the smaller waves improves the statistical fit and it suggests that low-height waves do not play a primary role in the medium-term morphological response, which is primarily driven by the intermittent larger storm waves.     

冲泻区形态动力学耦合模型研究Ⅱ:模型建立与验证

利用已建立的分段输沙率公式和实验数据,基于一维非线性浅水方程和床面变形方程,考虑两类共6种输沙率公式,增加床面剪切应力和渗流源项,建立适用于冲泻区水沙动力特性的岸滩形态动力学耦合模型。采用典型算例对模型可靠性进行了数值验证,结果表明,耦合模型中采用TVD-WAF格式和分段输沙率公式在计算形态变化时取得了较好的数值精度。进一步模拟了冲泻区内岸滩形态的变化特征,计算得到的水深、岸线轨迹和岸滩剖面变化结果与实验结果吻合较好,并讨论了不同摩阻系数和有无渗流对岸滩形态的影响规律,结果表明冲泻区形态动力学模型不能忽略床面摩阻和渗流的影响,本研究提出的分段输沙率公式适应于冲泻区的泥沙输运研究。     

Morphodynamics of sandy beaches under the influence of storm sequences:Current research status and future needs

This paper reviews and discusses the current research status,trends,and future needs in the field of beach morphodynamics under the influence of storm sequences.The paper reviews how the three main research methods,field investigations,numerical modelling,and physical modelling,have been used to study beach morphodynamics during storm sequences.Available quantitative definitions of storm sequences at different sites are presented and discussed.It is shown that the definition of storm sequences is site-specific and requires knowledge of the storm climate,beach characteristics,and the temporal scale of beach recovery.Subsequently,the paper brings together currently available approaches aimed at describing the effect of storm sequences on beach erosion in a general way.The importance of storm chronology and the effects of an extreme storm within a sequence of storms are highlighted.Following that,the more poorly studied aspect of beach recovery in between storms within a sequence is discussed.Three indicators for defining beach recovery,namely the shoreline location,sediment volumes,and the beach state,are identified and compared.Finally,important research needs,including the need for detailed physical modelling,are identified.     

Surf-zone dynamics derived from basin-scale experiments

Surf-zone hydrodynamics forced by oblique wave shoaling and breaking on beach slopes were investigated. The results showed that in wave-basin experiments with incident angles in the range of 15°–30°, wave breaking was initiated at a breaker coefficient of around 0.67, which was significantly less than that predicted from empirical relations based on normally incident waves for a given beach slope and deep-water wave steepness. The measurements also showed that subsequent saturated breaking occurred at a breaker coefficient of around 0.47 that was independent of beach slope in the range of 1:10 to 1:100. This result is likely applicable to both oblique and normally incident waves. It is shown that the measured wave heights and longshore velocity profiles in wave-basin studies can be reasonably well predicted by theory with proper adjustments to the process parameters. Best-match formulations were identified for quantifying bottom friction, eddy viscosity, and energy loss due to surface rollers.     

Measuring and modelling nearshore recovery of an eroded beach in Lake Michigan,USA

Erosion by storms and high-water levels impacts large enclosed basins; however there have been few attempts to numerically model cumulative impacts in large lakes. Antecedent morphology is a large determinant of coastal sensitivity to storms, so capturing the beach recovery is important for overall vulnerability assessment. To study beach recovery, we apply the numerical model XBeach to simulate a period of low to moderate wave energy when beach recovery typically occurs. Surveys were conducted one month apart during summer of 2020 on the west coast of Lake Michigan and used to initiate model runs and evaluate model performance. XBeach was used to propagate offshore wave conditions from a Great Lakes Coastal Forecasting System (GLCFS) node ～1 km offshore into the nearshore, and results were compared to measurements from a nearshore pressure sensor. We tested for the optimal value of the asymmetry/skewness parameter (facua) for model-data convergence. We evaluated model skill using a Mean Square Error Skill Score (MSESS) and a decomposition. In our repeat surveys we observed slight landward migration of longshore bars and the initiation of bar welding to the shoreline but, overall, changes in bathymetry were small. We found that XBeach transforms offshore waves well and sediment transport volume was accurately predicted by the model. However, XBeach did not capture the morphologic evolution under low energy conditions, preventing simulation of beach recovery. Overall, higher values of facua resulted in improved skill scores and modeled nearshore morphology that was more similar to the morphology measured in our surveys.     

Run-up of non-breaking double solitary waves with equal wave heights on a plane beach

The evolution and run-up of double solitary waves on a plane beach were studied numerically using the nonlinear shallow water equations(NSWEs) and the Godunov scheme. The numerical model was validated through comparing the present numerical results with analytical solutions and laboratory measurements available for propagation and run-up of single solitary wave. Two successive solitary waves with equal wave heights and variable separation distance of two crests were used as the incoming wave on the open boundary at the toe of a slope beach. The run-ups of the first wave and the second wave with different separation distances were investigated. It is found that the run-up of the first wave does not change with the separation distance and the run-up of the second wave is affected slightly by the separation distance when the separation distance is gradually shortening. The ratio of the maximum run-up of the second wave to one of the first wave is related to the separation distance as well as wave height and slope. The run-ups of double solitary waves were compared with the linearly superposed results of two individual solitary-wave run-ups. The comparison reveals that linear superposition gives reasonable prediction when the separation distance is large, but it may overestimate the actual run-up when two waves are close.     

Three-dimensional unstructured modelling of wave-induced circulation over a plane and irregular beach

Nearshore currents have a complicated circulation structure over a beach due to the mutual interaction between waves and currents. To investigate the wave-induced circulation over a beach, a three-dimensional unstructured model accounting for the combined actions of waves and currents is established. The wave distribution over the beach is computed by a wave model and the depth-dependent wave radiation stresses with the surface roller are employed in the hydrodynamic model. The present model takes the mixing coefficients and the bottom shear stress under waves and currents into account. To evaluate the three-dimensional unstructured model, the laboratory experiments over a plane and irregular beach are used to test the performance of the model. The undertow over a plane beach is well reproduced and the vertical variability is captured. The performance of the model over an irregular beach is well displayed in the reproduction of pairs of counter-rotating primary circulations at the embayment troughs. Meanwhile, the secondary circulations are observed in the swash zone. The model captures the circulation systems over a beach and the circulation structures of the wave-induced currents are well exhibited.     

Application of SWAN+ADCIRC to tide-surge and wave simulation in Gulf of Maine during Patriot's Day storm

The southern coast of the Gulf of Maine in the United States is prone to flooding caused by nor'easters. A state-of-the-art fully-coupled model, the Simulating WAves Nearshore(SWAN) model with unstructured grids and the ADvanced CIRCulation(ADCIRC) model, was used to study the hydrodynamic response in the Gulf of Maine during the Patriot's Day storm of 2007, a notable example of nor'easters in this area. The model predictions agree well with the observed tide-surges and waves during this storm event. Waves and circulation in the Gulf of Maine were analyzed. The Georges Bank plays an important role in dissipating wave energy through the bottom friction when waves propagate over the bank from offshore to the inner gulf due to its shallow bathymetry. Wave energy dissipation results in decreasing significant wave height(SWH) in the cross-bank direction and wave radiation stress gradient, which in turn induces changes in currents. While the tidal currents are dominant over the Georges Bank and in the Bay of Fundy, the residual currents generated by the meteorological forcing and waves are significant over the Georges Bank and in the coastal area and can reach 0.3 m/s and 0.2 m/s, respectively. In the vicinity of the coast, the longshore current generated by the surface wind stress and wave radiation stress acting parallel to the coastline is inversely proportional to the water depth and will eventually be limited by the bottom friction. The storm surge level reaches 0.8 m along the western periphery of the Gulf of Maine while the wave set-up due to radiation stress variation reaches 0.2 m. Therefore, it is significant to coastal flooding.     

海啸波作用下植被区海堤局部冲刷试验

近年来频发的海啸造成了沿岸建筑物周围剧烈的冲刷,而植物具有很好的减小海啸灾害的作用。采用PVC圆管概化模拟刚性植物,选取孤立波模拟海啸波,通过改变入射波高、植物带长度和密度、堤顶出水高度,研究植物对海啸波作用下海堤局部冲刷的影响,建立了海堤堤前冲刷坑、淤积沙坝、冲淤平衡点相对水平位置的尺度与植物带的长度和密度、波高、堤顶出水高度、泥沙比重以及岸滩坡度之间的关系式。试验结果表明:植物对海堤局部冲淤变化产生显著影响,植物带使得堤后近岸侧相对最大冲刷深度显著减小,堤前离岸侧冲刷位置由原堤脚处前移至植物带所在位置,冲刷范围大幅增加;堤前冲淤面积受入射波高和植物因素的共同影响,在同一植物模型下,冲刷坑面积和淤积沙坝面积都随入射波高的增大而增加;适当增大植物带密度,优化植物分布方式,可有效减弱海啸波对海堤的冲刷危害。     

Effects of storm waves on rapid deposition of sediment in the Yangtze Estuary channel

Recent research on short-term topographic change in the Yangtze Estuary channel under storm surge conditions is briefly summarized. The mild-slope, Boussinesq and action balance equations are compared and analyzed. The action balance equation, SWAN, was used as a wave numerical model to forecast strong storm waves in the Yangtze Estuary. The spherical coordinate system and source terms used in the equation are described in this paper. The significant wave height and the wave orbital motion velocity near the bottom of the channel during 20 m/s winds in the EES direction were simulated, and the model was calibrated with observation data of winds and waves generated by Tropical Cyclone 9912. The distribution of critical velocity for incipient motion along the bottom was computed according to the threshold velocity formula for bottom sediment. The mechanism of rapid deposition is analyzed based on the difference between the root-mean-square value of the near-bottom wave orbital motion velocity and the bottom critical tractive velocity. The results show that a large amount of bottom sediments from Hengsha Shoal and Jiuduan Shoal are lifted into the water body when 20 m/s wind is blowing in the EES direction. Some of the sediments may enter the channel with the cross-channel current, causing serious rapid deposition. Finally, the tendency of the storm to induce rapid deposition in the Yangtze Estuary channel zone is analyzed.