基于Boussinesq方程的波浪模型

从欧拉方程出发，提供了另一种推导完全非线性Boussinesq方程的方法，并对方程的 线性色散关系和线性变浅率进行了改进. 改进后方程的线性色散关系达到了一阶Stokes波 色散关系的Pad\'{e}[4,4]近似，在相对水深达1.0的强色散波浪时仍保持较高的准确性，并且方程的非线性和线性 变浅率都得到了不同程度的改善. 方程的水平一维形式用预估-校正的有限差分格式求解， 建立了一个适合较强非线性波浪的Boussinesq波浪数值模型. 作为验证，模拟了波浪在潜 堤上的传播变形，计算结果和实验数据的比较发现两者符合良好.     

非周期波浪与直墙作用的非线性数值研究

基于时域高阶边界元方法,建立了完全非线性二维数值波浪水槽,对非周期波浪与直墙的相互作用问题进行了模拟和研究.自由表面满足完全非线性自由水面运动学和动力学边界条件,采用混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法追踪瞬时自由面流体质点,采用四阶Runge-Kutta法对下一时间步的波面和自由面速度势进行更新.采用加速度式法求解直墙表面速度势的时间导数,对瞬时物体湿表面上的水动力压强积分,得到作用在物体上的瞬时波浪力.首先,将全非线性与Serre-Green-Naghdi(SGN)模型的结果进行了对比分析,发现对于大幅值双入射波问题,仅满足弱色散关系的SGN模型大大低估了最大波浪爬高;其次,研究了双入射波与直墙的非线性作用问题,发现线性预报对波浪最大爬高有较大低估,而波浪的非线性成分不只导致了自由面爬高的异常增大,也引起了局部自由面的高频振荡,该物理过程中,直墙所受的波浪载荷,也展示出了与波浪爬高相似的非线性特性;最后,对波浪爬升和波浪力的时间历程进行了频谱分析,发现入射主频波的部分能量传递给了更高频的波浪成分,反映出该问题具有典型的非线性特性.     

破碎带波浪的数值模拟

基于一组色散关系得到改进的完全非线性Boussinesq方程建立了一个波浪模型可以模拟近岸水域的波浪变浅、破碎以及在海滩上的爬高等多种变形。波浪破碎引起的能量衰减是在动量方程中引入一个在空间和时间上都只作用于波前的涡粘项来模拟。动海岸线边界用窄缝法处理。波浪爬高用非线性浅水方程推导的非破碎波浪在斜坡上爬高的解析解来验证。本模型还模拟了波浪在斜坡上不同类型的破碎变形过程,并将其波高和平均水位的沿程变化和物理模型实验的结果比较,两者符合良好。     

促进其线性频散特征另一种形式的Bousinesq方程

Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程能够用于模拟表面重力波传播过程中的折射、绕射、反射以及浅化，非线性作用等现象．用不同垂直积分方法所得到的二维Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程形式具有不同的线性频散特征．采用两个不同的水深层的水平速度变量组合，推导出一个新形式的Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程．通过对其参数的设置可得到精确的线性频散解Ｐａｄｅ近似４阶精度．其适用范围已由原来的浅水，向深水拓进．相速误差小于２％，其拓展适用范围可达到０８个波长水深．应用所得到的新型Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程，采用有限差分法，对经典工况进行了数值模拟，其计算结果表明，计算值与物模实验值吻合较好．这说明本文新形式的Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程对变水深非线性效应所产生的能量频散有着较为精确的描述     

移动载荷作用下浮冰的非线性动力学响应

本文考虑非线性、惯性和阻尼的影响, 研究了任意深度二维理想流体顶部浮冰的振动. 对相关的拟微分算子进行展开并将非线性项保留至三阶后, 完全非线性问题被简化为仅与自由面上的变量相关的三阶截断模型. 为了验证简化模型的准确性, 重点关注了自由孤立波解. 在不考虑阻尼的情况下, 采用多重尺度方法推导了三阶非线性薛定谔方程(NLS), 利用该方程预测了任意水深下原始欧拉方程中自由波包型孤立波解的存在性及三阶截断模型的准确性. 相比于Dinvay等所提出的二阶模型, 三阶截断模型的优势在于其对应的三阶NLS具有准确的非线性项系数, 能够在最小相速度附近更好地模拟冰层的动力学响应. 进一步地对自由孤立波解进行数值计算, 数值结果表明三阶截断模型在分岔曲线和孤立波波形上均与完全欧拉方程吻合良好, 准确性高于二阶截断模型. 基于三阶截断模型, 探究了匀速局域化载荷作用下的浮冰非线性动力学响应并将时间依赖解与实验测量数据进行比较, 数值计算结果与实验记录吻合良好.      

促进其线性频散特征另一种形式的Bousinesq方程

Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程能够用于模拟表面重力波传播过程中的折射、绕射、反射以及浅化，非线性作用等现象．用不同垂直积分方法所得到的二维Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程形式具有不同的线性频散特征．采用两个不同的水深层的水平速度变量组合，推导出一个新形式的Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程．通过对其参数的设置可得到精确的线性频散解Ｐａｄｅ近似４阶精度．其适用范围已由原来的浅水，向深水拓进．相速误差小于２％，其拓展适用范围可达到０８个波长水深．应用所得到的新型Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程，采用有限差分法，对经典工况进行了数值模拟，其计算结果表明，计算值与物模实验值吻合较好．这说明本文新形式的Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程对变水深非线性效应所产生的能量频散有着较为精确的描述     

非圆截面杆中非线性扭转波方程的解析求解

研究了非圆截面杆中非线性扭转波动方程的精确求解问题. 利用直接积分与微分变换相结合的方法,得到了该方程的隐式通解. 通过对积分常数和方程系数的不同情形的讨论, 给出了该方程的三角函数、双曲函数、椭圆函数、指数函数以及它们的组合形式的解,分别对应于的非线性扭转波的孤立波、周期波以及冲击波等多种传播形式.     

模拟畸形波的聚焦波浪模型

利用改进的高阶谱方法建立了模拟极限波的二维聚焦模型,通过与Baldock(1996)的实验结果和理论值的比较,验证了模型的正确性,并分析了波浪非线性的相互作用对聚焦结果的影响. 通过改进Longuet-Higgins海浪模型,给出了4种实验室聚焦模拟畸形波的波浪模型:极限波聚焦模型+随机波模型;极限波聚焦模型+规则波模型;相位角分布范围调制聚焦模型;相同相位角组成波个数调制聚焦模型. 基于上述完全非线性数值波浪模型,采用不同的能量分配方式,在有限模拟长度和时间内得到了具有不同$H_{\max}/H_{s}$值的畸形波.      

非均匀水流中非线性波传播的数值模拟

以一种考虑波流相互作用的新型{Boussinesq}型方程为控制方程组， 采用五阶{Runge}-{Kutta}-{England}格式离散时间积分，采用七点 差分格式离散空间导数，并通过采用恰当的出流边界条件，从而建立了非均匀水流中非线性 波传播的数值模拟模型. 通过对均匀水流与水深水域内和潜堤地形上存在弱流或强流时波浪 传播的数值模拟，说明模型能有效地反映水流对波浪传播的影响.     

近场动力学系统中波传播特性的探究

近场动力学是一类基于非局部思想的新固体力学方法,其采用积分形式的控制方程,自然地适用于极端载荷下材料破碎和裂纹发展的模拟,被广泛用于国防安全等领域的研究.但是,非局部性会引入色散效应,对波的传播产生不利影响,制约其对断裂等固体行为的捕捉能力.为此,采用谱分析方法,对近场动力学系统的色散行为进行了全面的研究.发现相比于低频成分,高频成分的色散关系呈现出振荡趋势和零能模式,色散问题更为严重.高频域的色散行为还随波的传播方向发生改变,呈现出沿45°的对称性.而近场动力学系统本身缺乏数值耗散,无法抑制色散问题带来的不利影响.因此,从引入数值耗散的角度出发,在合理保留传统近场动力学理论框架的基础上,建立了黏性引入的控制方程.并考虑固体中常见的体积变形和对高频成分的选择性抑制,构造了相应的黏性力态.最后,在数值研究中模拟了极端载荷下激波的产生,以探究波的间断性对色散行为的影响.发现间断性强的波表现出更为显著的色散行为,呈现出Gibbs不稳定性.这些均能有效地被黏性力态所抑制,验证了所提方法的正确性.这为在近场动力学系统中实现对波传播过程的正确捕捉,获得正确的固体行为提供了重要参考,从而为国防安全领...     

A horizontally curvilinear non‐hydrostatic model for simulating nonlinear wave motion in curved boundaries

A horizontally curvilinear non‐hydrostatic free surface model that embeds the second‐order projection method, the so‐called θ scheme, in fractional time stepping is developed to simulate nonlinear wave motion in curved boundaries. The model solves the unsteady, Navier–Stokes equations in a three‐dimensional curvilinear domain by incorporating the kinematic free surface boundary condition with a top‐layer boundary condition, which has been developed to improve the numerical accuracy and efficiency of the non‐hydrostatic model in the standard staggered grid layout. The second‐order Adams–Bashforth scheme with the third‐order spatial upwind method is implemented in discretizing advection terms. Numerical accuracy in terms of nonlinear phase speed and amplitude is verified against the nonlinear Stokes wave theory over varying wave steepness in a two‐dimensional numerical wave tank. The model is then applied to investigate the nonlinear wave characteristics in the presence of dispersion caused by reflection and diffraction in a semicircular channel. The model results agree quantitatively with superimposed analytical solutions. Finally, the model is applied to simulate nonlinear wave run‐ups caused by wave‐body interaction around a bottom‐mounted cylinder. The numerical results exhibit good agreement with experimental data and the second‐order diffraction theory. Overall, it is shown that the developed model, with only three vertical layers, is capable of accurately simulating nonlinear waves interacting within curved boundaries. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A Boussinesq model with alleviated nonlinearity and dispersion

The classical Boussinesq equation is a weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive equation, which has been widely applied to simulate wave propagation in off-coast shallow waters. A new form of the Boussinesq model for an uneven bottoms is derived in this paper. In the new model, nonlinearity is reduced without increasing the order of the highest derivative in the differential equations. Dispersion relationship of the model is improved to the order of Pade （2,2） by adjusting a parameter in the model based on the long wave approximation. Analysis of the linear dispersion, linear shoaling and nonlinearity of the present model shows that the performances in terms of nonlinearity, dispersion and shoaling of this model are improved. Numerical results obtained with the present model are in agreement with experimental data.     

Doubly periodic patterns of modulated hydrodynamic waves: Exact solutions of the Davey-Stewartson system

Exact doubly periodic standing wave patterns of the Davey-Stewartson (DS) equations are derived in terms of rational expressions of elliptic functions.In fluid mechanics,DS equations govern the evolution of weakly nonlinear,free surface wave packets when long wavelength modulations in two mutually perpendicular,horizontal directions are incorporated.Elliptic functions with two different moduli (periods) are necessary in the two directions.The relation between the moduli and the wave numbers constitutes the dispersion relation of such waves.In the long wave limit,localized pulses are recovered.     

An efficient curvilinear non‐hydrostatic model for simulating surface water waves

An efficient curvilinear non‐hydrostatic free surface model is developed to simulate surface water waves in horizontally curved boundaries. The generalized curvilinear governing equations are solved by a fractional step method on a rectangular transformed domain. Of importance is to employ a higher order (either quadratic or cubic spline function) integral method for the top‐layer non‐hydrostatic pressure under a staggered grid framework. Model accuracy and efficiency, in terms of required vertical layers, are critically examined on a linear progressive wave case. The model is then applied to simulate waves propagating in a canal with variable widths, cnoidal wave runup around a circular cylinder, and three‐dimensional wave transformation in a circular channel. Overall the results show that the curvilinear non‐hydrostatic model using a few, e.g. 2–4, vertical layers is capable of simulating wave dispersion, diffraction, and reflection due to curved sidewalls. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Higher order Boussinesq-type equations for water waves on uneven bottom

Higher order Boussinesq-type equations for wave propagation over variable bathymetry were derived. The time dependent free surface boundary conditions were used to compute the change of the free surface in time domain. The free surface velocities and the bottom velocities were connected by the exact solution of the Laplace equation. Taking the velocities on half relative water depth as the fundamental unknowns, terms relating to the gradient of the water depth were retained in the inverse series expansion of the exact solution, with which the problem was closed. With enhancements of the finite order Taylor expansion for the velocity field, the application range of the present model was extended to the slope bottom which is not so mild. For linear properties, some validation computations of linear shoaling and Booij' s tests were carried out. The problems of wave-current interactions were also studied numerically to test the performance of the enhanced Boussinesq equations associated with the effect of currents. All these computational results confirm perfectly to the theoretical solution as well as other numerical solutions of the full potential problem available.     

Three-dimensional divergent waves on a model viscoelastic coating in a potential incompressible fluid flow

Generation of three-dimensional nonlinear waves on a model viscoelastic coating in a potential flow of an incompressible fluid is studied. Periodic nonlinear waves enhanced by the development of quasi-static instability (wave divergence) are considered. The coating is modeled by a flexible flat plate supported by a distributed nonlinearly-elastic spring foundation. Plate flexure is described on the basis of the Karman equations of the theory of thin plates. Perturbations of surface pressure in the potential flow are found in the small slope approximation to an accuracy to terms of the second order of smallness. Numerical simulation reveals a jump-like transition from two-dimensional nonlinear waves to three-dimensional wave structures, which are also observed in experiments.     

Model of an undular bore

In the shallow-water approximation, nonlinear long waves are considered with account for small-scale waves on the free surface. The undular-bore structure, which within the framework of this model is represented as a discontinuous solution with a relaxation zone adjacent to the discontinuity, is investigated. The wave-packet damping rate is found. The solution obtained is compared with the structure of the undular bore determined by the nonlinear dispersion equations of second-approximation shallow-water theory.     

An explicit formulation for the evolution of nonlinear surface waves interacting with a submerged body

An explicit formulation to study nonlinear waves interacting with a submerged body in an ideal fluid of infinite depth is presented. The formulation allows one to decompose the nonlinear wave–body interaction problem into body and free‐surface problems. After the decomposition, the body problem satisfies a modified body boundary condition in an unbounded fluid domain, while the free‐surface problem satisfies modified nonlinear free‐surface boundary conditions. It is then shown that the nonlinear free‐surface problem can be further reduced to a closed system of two nonlinear evolution equations expanded in infinite series for the free‐surface elevation and the velocity potential at the free surface. For numerical experiments, the body problem is solved using a distribution of singularities along the body surface and the system of evolution equations, truncated at third order in wave steepness, is then solved using a pseudo‐spectral method based on the fast Fourier transform. A circular cylinder translating steadily near the free surface is considered and it is found that our numerical solutions show excellent agreement with the fully nonlinear solution using a boundary integral method. We further validate our solutions for a submerged circular cylinder oscillating vertically or fixed under incoming nonlinear waves with other analytical and numerical results. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.