A phase-resolving cross shore sediment transport model for beach profile evolution

A phase-resolving wave transformation module is combined with an intra-wave sediment transport module to calculate the on-/offshore sediment transport rates. The wave module is based on the Boussinesq equations extended into the surf zone. The vertical variation of the mean undertow and the intra-wave sediment concentrations are calculated. The net sediment transport rates are calculated, and the equation for conservation of sediment is solved to predict the beach profile evolution. The results of the present paper showed that the undertow contribution to the sediment transport rates is not dominating in all parts of the surf zone, even for eroding beaches, suggesting that other contributions should not be neglected. The present model also showed that for the same offshore wave energy the time series of the oscillatory motion is important and that the effect of wave groups cannot be disregarded.     

Alongshore fluid motions in the swash zone of a sandy and gravel beach

Field experiments were conducted on a low-gradient, high-energy sandy beach (Truc Vert, France) and a steep, low-energy gravel beach (Slapton, UK) to examine alongshore-directed currents within the swash zone. At Truc Vert, data were collected over 33 tidal cycles with offshore significant wave heights of 1–4 m and periods of 5–12 s. At Slapton data were collected during 12 tides with wave heights of 0.3–1 m and periods of 4–9 s. The swash motion was predominantly at infragravity frequencies at Truc Vert and incident frequencies at Slapton.     

Calculation of beach change under interacting cross-shore and longshore processes

This paper presents a mathematical approach and numerical model that simulates beach and dune change in response to cross-shore processes of dune growth by wind and dune erosion by storms, and by gradients in longshore sand transport that will alter shoreline position. Sub-aerial transport processes are represented, whereas sub-aqueous transport is neglected. The system is tightly coupled morphologically, with the berm playing a central role. For example, the potential for sand to be transported to the dune by wind depends on berm width, and sand lost in erosion of the dune during storms can widen the berm. Morphologic equilibrium considerations are introduced to improve reliability of predictions and stability of the non-linear model. An analytical solution is given under simplification to illustrate properties of the model. Sensitivity tests with the numerical solution of the coupled equations demonstrate model performance, with one test exploring beach and dune response to potential increase in storm-wave height with global warming. Finally, the numerical model is applied to examine the consequences of groin shortening at Westhampton Beach, Long Island, New York, as an alternative for providing a sand supply to the down-drift beach. Results indicate that the sand will be released over several decades as the shoreline and dune move landward in adjustment to the new equilibrium condition with the shortened groins.     

Effects of a high rise building on wind flow and beach characteristics at Atlantic City, NJ, USA

This study assesses the effects of a high rise building on the beach and dune at an intensively developed shoreline through field investigation of geomorphological and sedimentological characteristics and wind tunnel investigation of wind speed and direction. Results indicate that wind speed is increased close to the building, where wind is often deflected to a more onshore direction. Obliquely offshore northwesterly winds are the most dramatically altered and cause onshore flows (with pronounced upward flows) in the landward portion of the beach near the building. Onshore deflections in wind direction cause besanding of the boardwalk and create highly localized scour and deposition zones. A dune on the backbeach breaks up zones of sediment transport and scour and diminishes the likelihood that scour areas will cause increased hazard to landward buildings as a result of flooding. Generic large-scale studies are required to develop criteria for communities to use to specify optimum dimensions, locations and shapes of landforms that are modified or created by high rise structures.     

A numerical model of beach morphological evolution due to waves and currents in the vicinity of coastal structures

A numerical model was developed of beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. The model includes five sub-models for random wave transformation, surface roller development, nearshore wave-induced currents, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. The model was validated using high-quality data sets obtained during experiments with a T-head groin and a detached breakwater in the basin of the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in Vicksburg, Miss, USA. The simulations showed that the model reproduced well the wave conditions, wave-induced currents, and beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. Both salient and tombolo formation behind a T-head groin and a detached breakwater were simulated with good agreement compared to the measurements.     

On the evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on a mild sloping beach

This paper presents new laboratory experiments carried out in a supertank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m) of breaking solitary waves evolution on a 1:60 plane beach. The measured data are employed to re-examine existing formulae that include breaking criterion, amplitude evolution and run-up height. The properties of shoreline motion, underwater particle velocity and scale effect on run-up height are briefly discussed. Based on our analyses, it is evidently found that there exist five zones during a wave amplitude evolution course on the present mild slope. A simple formula which is capable of predicting maximum run-up height for a breaking solitary wave on a uniform beach with a wide range of beach slope (1:15–1:60) is also proposed. The calculated results from the present model agree favorably with available laboratory data, indicating that our method is compatible with other predictive models.     

Sediment transport on an estuarine intertidal flat: Measurements and conceptual model of waves, rainfall and exchanges with a tidal creek

Sediment (silt) transport on a wave-dominated estuarine intertidal flat dissected by a tidal creek that connects to the watershed freshwater network is investigated by analysing field data from Waikopua, New Zealand, and by applying simple models. The intention is to expand understanding beyond the case of the idealised, two-dimensional wave-dominated flat. During fairweather (no waves), there is a continuous exchange of silt between the bed of the tidal creek and the upper flat, and that exchange is controlled by the elevation of the flat with respect to the creek bed. Rainfall in the watershed does not fundamentally alter the way the intertidal flat and the creek interact, but it does increase silt loads in the creek, which in turn increases the amount of silt exchanged with the upper flat. Waves on the flat are fetch-limited, and frictional dissipation causes waves to reduce in height at the edge of the water body. Under some circumstances, a frictional-dissipation zone may occupy the entire middle-plus-upper flat. There is a maximum in wave-orbital speed at the bed (U_sigb) in the middle reaches of the flat, which arises from the particular balance between down-fetch wave growth, wave dissipation by bottom friction, and attenuation through the water column of wave-orbital motions under the short-period waves. There is a progressive decoupling of suspended-silt concentration (SSC) from U_sigb moving from the bottom to the top of the flat, such that SSC is highest towards the top of the flat, where U_sigb is virtually zero. We suggest that this is due to wave activity retarding the settling of suspended silt, and explore that idea with a simple model that is capable of reproducing the essential features of the data set. The results are assimilated in a conceptual model of the system, which shows the balances that control net silt transport in the creek and on the different parts of the flat, three different silt sources, and the role of waves and rainfall. The conceptual model also points at the feedbacks between sediment-transport processes and morphology that are inherent in the system. Implications of those feedbacks to long-term morphodynamics are essentially unexplored.     

杭州湾北部潮流深槽区细颗粒物质输运与再悬浮过程

于2005年5月大潮期间在杭州湾北部潮流深槽区的4个站位进行潮周期观测,获得了流速、悬沙等数据,并对其进行了分析,计算了水沙通量和再悬浮通量。分析结果表明,该深槽区涨潮流速大于落潮流速,涨潮历时小于落潮历时,潮差自湾口向湾内方向增大;悬沙的组分以粉砂为主,分选较差,偏态以负偏为主,这些特征与底质一致;深槽中部和东部的悬沙沿岸线向湾内方向输运;深槽西部和东部外侧的悬沙输运方向与余流方向一致,分别向湾内和南部输运;除转流和流速加速初期外,垂线流速分布符合Kûrmûn-Prandtl模型,摩阻流速与垂线平均流速变化趋势一致。计算得到的表观粗糙长度在涨落潮时段的水流加速或减速阶段都呈增大趋势,且数值较大,这难以把它简单地归结为床面形态的作用,表观粗糙长度的变化趋势可能是高悬沙浓度和浓度成层性共同作用的结果,但对这一假说的验证还有待于进一步的现场观测和机制分析。计算所得的再悬浮发生的周期性与实测悬沙浓度的周期性相符,而且最大悬沙浓度的出现滞后于最大再悬浮通量,说明再悬浮作用对水层中悬沙浓度的变化具有重要影响。     

Suspended sediment dynamics on a seasonal scale in the Mandovi and Zuari estuaries,central west coast of India

Suspended particulate matter (SPM) collected at regular stations from the Mandovi and Zuari estuaries indicates that the peaks of high SPM coincide with peaks of high rainfall and low salinity and also with peaks of moderate/low rainfall coupled with high salinity during the monsoon. The estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) is a characteristic feature, it occurs in the channel accompanying spring tide during the monsoon and pre-monsoon, and shifts to the bay on neap tide during post-monsoon. ETM remains at the same position in the Mandovi River, both during the monsoon and pre-monsoon, whereas in Zuari it stretched upstream during monsoon and migrates seaward of the channel during pre-monsoon. The ETM coincides with the freshwater–seawater interface during the monsoon and is formed by the interaction between tidal currents and river flows. The ETM during pre-monsoon is associated with high salinities and is generated by tidal and wind-induced currents. The turbidity maximum on neap tide during post-monsoon may be due to the erosion and resuspension of sediments from the emergent tidal flats and transport of these turbid waters into the bay. Funneling effect of the narrowing bay in the Zuari estuary and associated physical processes effectively enhance the magnitude of the currents and transports sediments to the channel. SPM retention percentage indicates that the estuarine channel is prone to siltation.     

Rare earth elements and Opal/CaCO<Subscript>3</Subscript> ratio of sinking particles observed with a time-series sediment trap at the mouth of Tokyo Bay

A time-series sediment trap was deployed from December 1994 to February 2002 at the mouth of Tokyo Bay (35°03′ N, 139°40′ E; water depth, 850 m). Sinking particles were obtained with a time interval of one week at a depth of approximately 100 m above the sea floor. Observed total mass fluxes varied from 3.3 to 226.7 g/m²/day with an average of 28.0 g/m²/day. Concentrations of rare earth elements, Al, Ca and Si in particulate materials were measured. The combustible fraction at 450°C is assumed to be equivalent to the organic matter content. Contents of biogenic materials, namely organic matter, opal and calcium carbonate, were about 30% and the content of lithogenic material was about 70%. Using La/Yb ratios of particles from the sediment trap and Tama-gawa River and surface sediment of Tokyo Bay, it was estimated that about 50% of the lithogenic particles collected in the sediment trap at the mouth of Tokyo Bay originated from resuspended surface sediment in Tokyo Bay. An increasing trend of Opal/CaCO₃ ratio in the sinking particles was found in the spring season. It is suggested that the relative increase of diatoms is due to the decreasing dissolved inorganic nitrogen input into Tokyo Bay.