皮肤保湿剂及其性能评价方法的研究

模拟皮肤结构将皮肤保湿剂分为闭塞剂和吸湿剂,从皮肤生理学角度研究了二者的吸湿,保湿机理。采用干燥器控制相对湿度的方法对常见的９种保湿剂试样作了吸湿,保湿效果测试,筛选出最适合用作皮肤保湿的两种保湿剂。     

一款模拟皮肤天然保湿系统的精华水改善敏感性皮肤的临床研究

通过搭配内源性保湿、修护成分,模拟皮肤的天然保湿系统制备一款精华水。筛选35例敏感性皮肤的女性使用产品,每日早晚各1次,连续使用28天,通过无创性定量评价该产品对敏感性皮肤的护理效果。于使用前、使用后28天,对面颊角质层含水量、经表皮失水量、皮肤血红细胞浓度、皮肤表面酸碱度进行评估。研究表明,连续使用产品28天后,皮肤角质层含水量显著性升高38.13%(p<0.001),经皮水分流失量显著性降低20.20%(p<0.001),皮肤血红细胞浓度从181.55±38.87降低至171.90±34.34(p<0.01),乳酸刺痛评分从4.43降至2.83(p<0.01)。此实验过程皮肤维持弱酸性环境,且无任何不良反应发生。综上所述,该精华水适用于敏感性皮肤,可改善皮肤干燥、敏感程度,对皮肤屏障有一定的修护效果。     

木糖醇葡萄糖苷保湿剂对皮肤屏障的作用与测试

简述了皮肤屏障与皮肤保湿的关系,介绍了木糖醇葡萄糖苷的性质,并通过仪器测试体现了其对皮肤保湿的作用。     

化妆品保湿与皮肤纹理的相关性研究

通过无创性评价方法测试使用保湿护肤品后的皮肤角质层含水量、皮肤油脂含量、皮肤纹理参数,结合消费者测试,分析探讨市场上保湿护肤品的保湿性和皮肤纹理的相关性.结果表明,皮肤纹理参数和皮肤角质层含水量及皮肤油脂含量有一定的负相关性,增加皮肤角质层含水量和皮肤油脂含量都能在一定程度上降低皮肤纹理;消费者能感受到的产品保湿性和仪...     

皮肤自身保湿系统和保湿护肤品设计思路

保湿是一个经久不衰的皮肤护理话题,皮肤保湿性好,看上去就会水润、细腻和透亮。皮肤在长期进化过程中演化出一整套自身的保湿系统。真皮层是这一系统的水源,基底膜是水渠,角质层是水坝,它们共同组成了皮肤保湿系统。保湿护肤品设计要尊重这一保湿系统的作用机理,以维护、强化皮肤自身保湿系统为切入点,才能开发出适合皮肤需要的护肤品。     

皮肤的干燥与保湿

本文介绍了引起皮肤干燥的原因，皮肤保湿主要使用的有保湿剂、润肤剂和深层保湿剂，并对它们的保湿原理进行了叙述。     

长效保湿身体乳的研究与应用

以客观和主观方法结合测试一款含有牡丹籽油、米糠油、燕麦仁油、天然VE组成的组合物为保湿剂的保湿功效。测试对象为18～60女性,皮肤干燥,小腿外侧含水量<40C.U.样本量31人求被测试者无肌肤疾病和肌肤过敏史。测试者按照使用方法每天于沐浴后涂抹;并按摩至吸收,连续使用四周,分别在使用前、2周、4周后测量角质层水分含量(以肌肤水合度表示,测定3次,取其平均值作为测试结果)。并收集受试者主观评价结果,借助SPSS数据统计软件对实验结果进行统计分析。结果显示与不含牡丹籽油、米糠油、燕麦仁油、天然VE组成的基质相比,含牡丹籽油、米糠油、燕麦仁油、天然VE组成的乳液对皮肤角质层水分含量的提高、经皮失水率的改善、肌肤泛红等问题的改善都具有显著作用,说明牡丹籽油、米糠油、燕麦仁油、天然VE组成作为保湿剂添加到护肤品中,具有良好的补水保湿、增强皮肤屏障功能的作用。     

骨胶原美白菁华液对皮肤美白保湿效果的影响

本研究主要评价外用蒽菲优生骨胶原驻颜活肤Q10美白菁华原液产品对皮肤美白保湿效果的影响,采用CallegariS.P.A.SOFT5.5检测皮肤的pH、皮肤油脂含量、皮肤含水量及黑色素值,用问卷量表方式比较治疗前、后受试者与皮肤干燥相关的症状以及前后疗效评价等方法。     

Proteoglycan Combined with Hyaluronic Acid and Hydrolyzed Collagen Restores the Skin Barrier in Mild Atopic Dermatitis and Dry,Eczema-Prone Skin: A Pilot Study

Dry and eczema-prone skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis and xerotic eczema primarily indicate an impaired skin barrier function, which leads to chronic pruritus. Here, we investigated the effects of a novel emollient containing H.ECM^TM liposome, which contains a soluble proteoglycan in combination with hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronic acid. A prospective, single-arm study was conducted on 25 participants with mild atopic dermatitis or dry skin to assess the hydration and anti-inflammatory effect of the novel emollient applied daily over four weeks. All efficacy parameters, including itching severity, transepidermal water loss, and skin hydration, improved significantly after four weeks. The in vitro and ex vivo studies confirmed the restoration of the skin’s barrier function. The study revealed the clinical and laboratory efficacy of H.ECM^TM liposome in reducing itching and improving the skin’s barrier integrity. Thus, the use of H.ECM^TM liposome can be considered a therapeutic option for dry and eczema-prone skin.     

洗涤剂对手部皮肤屏障的影响

通过观察手部皮肤在洗涤剂中反复浸泡后,皮肤屏障功能在5天内的改变情况,初步建立洗涤剂对手部皮肤影响的评价方法。实验结果表明,洗涤剂反复浸泡可造成手部皮肤累积性刺激症状。临床评价认为,手部皮肤含水量和经表皮失水率是评价手部屏障改变的有效方法。     

墨藻胶对皮肤水合及屏障功能的促进作用研究

选择14例健康受试者对墨藻胶的保湿性能进行评价,发现连续使用墨藻胶7 d即可显著提升皮肤水分含量(CM),降低经皮水分散失(TEWL)。用墨藻胶处理角质细胞24 h后,通过实时荧光定量PCR技术研究与表皮水合及屏障相关的6个基因的mRNA表达水平,结果表明,墨藻胶可显著上调内披蛋白(INV)、转谷酰胺酶-1(TG-1)、丝聚蛋白(FLG)和半胱天冬酶-14(CASP-14)的mRNA表达水平。墨藻胶通过调节与表皮角化细胞套膜形成相关的基因表达,促进FLG降解成天然保湿因子,增强皮肤水合活性,改善皮肤屏障。     

Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice,a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits

The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two candidates outperformed the rest: Betula alba (BA) and Empetrum nigrum (EN). Quantitative PCR analysis showed that BA and EN upregulated barrier genes, when used individually and in combination. Betula alba increased AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, something niacinamide was incapable of. Additionally, the skin barrier was strengthened, evidenced by inhibition of KLK5 and hyaluronidase and showed strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity through DPPH and COX2 inhibition, respectively. A first split-face clinical study was conducted using the combination of extracts versus placebo. There was a significantly better skin restructuring effect and corneocyte cohesion on the side treated with combined extracts. A second split-face clinical study assessed the combined extracts versus 3% niacinamide. Significant variations in skin hydration and TEWL were observed in favor of the extract treated side. In conclusion, we identified a natural alternative to niacinamide for improving skin barrier health, in Scandinavian plant extracts, which yield strong performance, but at a lower concentration.     

护肤产品的保湿功能评价

介绍了一种测试化妆品护肤产品保湿效果的方法,检测了四十种不同配方保湿霜的相对保湿率,相对保湿率用来定义产品降低皮肤干燥度的有效性。用ＳＫＩＣＯＮ２００型角质水含量测试仪对使用产品前后的角质层水含量进行了测试,四种方法的相关性较好。     

三文鱼皮明胶的制备及其性能的研究

本文通过酸碱法对三文鱼皮进行预处理,制备了三文鱼皮明胶。研究分析了碱处理时间和浓度、酸处理时间和浓度对明胶产率和粘度的影响规律;测定了三文鱼皮明胶的成分、氨基酸组成、相对粘度。通过紫外光谱、红外光谱、X-射线衍射对其结构进行了分析。     

From human skin to Nano-Skin: an experimental study on human skin temperature measurement

The human state in human–machine systems should be monitored to improve system performance. In monitoring it is preferable to use physiological cues such as skin temperature. The sensing capabilities of human skin were analyzed. The sensing system of human skin was modeled, and inspired the design of a Nano-Skin for physiological measurement in dynamic human–machine contact for human state recognition. The Nano-Skin involves a flexible bottom layer, sensors, special integrated circuit, interconnection between sensors and special integrated circuit, and flexible top layer. The requirements for the sensors of a Nano-Skin are summarized, and compared with common sensors, MEMS sensors, and nano sensors. A Nano-Skin with deposited platinum was manufactured. The manufacturing process is shown to be feasible and repeatable. The Nano-Skin with deposited platinum was used to measure skin temperature. Its performance was investigated using experiments. The results verified that the accuracy of the Nano-Skin sensors will not be lower than Pt1000Ω. Smaller sensors in a Nano-Skin generally have better performance.     

Strategies to Develop a Suitable Formulation for Inflammatory Skin Disease Treatment

Skin barrier functions, environmental insults, and genetic backgrounds are intricately linked and form the basis of common inflammatory skin disorders, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and seborrheic dermatitis, which may seriously affect one’s quality of life. Topical therapy is usually the first line of management. It is believed that successful topical treatment requires pharmaceutical formulation from a sufficient dosage to exert therapeutic effects by penetrating the stratum corneum and then diffusing to the target area. However, many factors can affect this process including the physicochemical properties of the active compound, the composition of the formulation base, and the limitations and conditions of the skin barrier, especially in inflammatory skin. This article briefly reviews the available data on these issues and provides opinions on strategies to develop a suitable formulation for inflammatory skin disease treatment.     

欧洲护肤品市场重整旗鼓

概述了欧洲各国的护肤品市场现状。对欧洲护肤品市场尤其是面部护肤品市场进行了分析,并对欧洲护肤品市场的发展趋势进行了探讨。论述了法国的化妆品及盥洗用品市场,并对法国的香水市场进行了分析,指出尽管法国的香水市场已经饱和,但随着技术的革新、质量的改进以及新品的推出,香水市场仍有发展的空间。     

An investigation into the variability of skin colour measurements

This study aimed to investigate the variability of skin colour measurements for two kinds of extensively used instruments, telespectroradiometers (TSR) and spectrophotometers. A Konica Minolta CM700d spectrophotometer and a PhotoResearch PR650 telespectroradiometer were used to measure the forehead and the cheekbone of 11 subjects. The variability was evaluated using different measurement parameters including measurement aperture size and pressure on the facial locations for the spectrophotometer, and measurement distance for the telespectroradiometer. The mean colour difference from the mean was used to define the short‐term repeatability; the CIELAB colour difference and colour appearance changes in each perceptual CIELAB attribute between each of two instrument settings were used to evaluate the inter‐instrument agreement. The results show that, for the TSR, different measurement distances have identical repeatability but the colour shifts were significant; for the spectrophotometer, the large aperture size of the target masks gave the most repeatable results and the aperture size had more influence on the colour shifts than the measurement pressure. In addition, to investigate the effect of ethnicity and body location on measurement variability, skin colours from additional 151 subjects were measured. The differences between the measurements for different body locations were, in general, larger than the instrument repeatability and the inter‐instrument agreement.