纺织用特种动物纤维基本物理机械性能对比研究

采用对比研究的方法,研究羊驼毛、骆驼绒、马海毛、牦牛绒、安哥拉兔毛、北极狐绒毛、乌苏里貉毛、山羊绒和超细羊毛9种特种动物纤维在细度、长度、卷曲等各项基本物理机械性能方面的差异.研究结果表明:骆驼绒、牦牛绒、北极狐绒毛、乌苏里貉毛、山羊绒、超细羊毛性能优良,手感柔软蓬松,可纺性好,开发高档新面料的潜力巨大.羊驼毛、马海毛、安哥拉兔毛可纺性能较差,多用于开发粗纺产品.     

纺织用特种动物纤维基本物理机械性能对比研究

本文采用对比研究的方法．研究羊驼毛、骆驼绒、马海毛、牦牛绒、兔毛、北极狐绒毛、乌苏里貉毛、山羊绒、超细羊毛九种特种动物纤维在细度、长度、卷曲等各项基本物理机械性能方面的差异。研究结果表明：骆驼绒、牦牛绒、北极狐绒毛、乌苏里貉毛、山羊绒、超细羊毛性能优良,手感柔软蓬松,可纺性好,开发高档新面料的潜力巨大。羊驼毛、马海毛、安哥拉兔毛可纺性能较差,多用十开发粗纺产品。     

特种动物纤维基本物理机械性能对比

采用对比方法,研究羊驼毛、骆驼绒、马海毛、牦牛绒、兔毛、北极狐绒毛、乌苏里貉毛、山羊绒、超细羊毛纤维在细度、长度、卷曲等各项基本物理机械性能方面的差异。结果表明,骆驼绒、牦牛绒、北极狐绒毛、鸟苏里貉毛、山羊绒、超细羊毛性能优良,手感柔软蓬松,可纺性好,开发高档新面料的潜力巨大。羊驼毛、马海毛、安哥拉兔毛可纺性能较差,多用于开发粗纺产品。     

羊驼毛工艺性能测试分析

介绍了羊驼毛纤维表面的鳞片形态特征,对其长度、细度、卷曲、摩擦等工艺性能进行了测试分析,并与山羊绒、超细羊毛、64支澳毛进行了对比研究。结果表明:羊驼毛纤维表面鳞片边缘不光滑,且鳞片翘角大,密度小。纤维的摩擦因数、摩擦效应都比较大,具有很好的缩绒性能。羊驼毛直径粗,有连续型或间断型髓腔。其纤维的卷曲数较少。羊驼毛工艺性能优良,各项指标满足纺织加工的要求。尤其是其长度长、力学性能优异,产品开发潜力巨大。     

拉细羊驼毛的结构形态与性能研究

以4种不同定型方法得到的拉细羊驼毛为对象,研究其鳞片结构形态及细度、强伸性、摩擦性能及热水收缩率。研究表明：拉细羊驼毛表面鳞片或翘起,或撕裂,或脱落,或腐蚀。其摩擦效应下降,在摩擦性能上是优化的。拉细羊驼毛直径减小了5～7μm,为开发高支轻薄面料创造了条件。拉细羊驼毛的强伸性下降,热水收缩率随温度的升高而增大。因此,在实际生产加工中要注意掌握低温轻柔原则。     

拉细羊驼毛的结构形态与性能研究

为给开发高支轻薄面料创造条件,以4种不同定形方法得到的拉细羊驼毛为对象,研究其鳞片结构形态及细度、强伸性能、摩擦性能及热水收缩率。研究表明：拉细羊驼毛表面鳞片或翘起,或撕裂,或脱落,或腐蚀;其摩擦效应下降,在摩擦性能上是优化的;拉细羊驼毛直径减小了5～7μm,拉细羊驼毛的强伸性下降,热水收缩率随温度的升高而增大,在实际生产加工中要注意掌握低温轻柔原则。     

羊驼毛(阿尔帕卡毛)物理机械性能测试与分析

对比了国内常用的 3种进口羊驼毛———苏力羊驼毛、Baby羊驼毛、42 0 4羊驼毛的细微结构 ,对细度、长度、卷曲、强力和伸长、摩擦和缩绒性及比重等性能进行了综合测试 ,并将 3种羊驼毛的各项性能与 6 4支澳毛进行了分析比较。     

北极狐绒毛纤维的缩绒性测试分析

对北极狐绒毛、超细绵羊毛和山羊绒的缩绒性能进行了测试,从毛纤维表面性能、摩擦系数、细度、卷曲形态等方面进行了对比分析,结果表明鳞片翘角大、细度细、卷曲波幅较高的北极狐绒毛具有良好的缩绒性能.     

绵羊毛与特种动物纤维鉴别方法的探讨

为准确检测未知毛绒纤维的类别，提出了通过外观形态鉴别绵羊毛、山羊绒、兔毛、羊驼毛、牦牛绒、驼绒、马海毛纤维的方法。     

纳米化学改性处理对细绵羊毛主要性能的影响

主要研究改性前后细绵羊毛的性能差异。经过测试，发现改性后的细绵羊毛与改性前相比，细度、单纤强力、平均卷曲弹性率、表面摩擦性能、抗菌性等相关性能有较大改善，单纤维伸长率、平均卷曲度等性能指标反而比改性前更差。     

Variation in the softness and fibre curvature of cashmere,alpaca, mohair and other rare animal fibres

Softness of apparel textiles is a major attribute sought by consumers. There is surprisingly little objective information on the softness properties of rare animal fibres, particularly cashmere, alpaca and mohair. Samples of these and other rare animal fibres from different origins of production and processors were objectively measured for fibre diameter, fibre curvature (FC, crimp) and resistance to compression (softness). While there were curvilinear responses of resistance to compression to FC and to mean fibre diameter, FC accounted for much more of the variance in resistance to compression. Fibre type was an important determinant of resistance to compression. The softest fibres were alpaca, mohair and cashgora and all of the fibres measured were softer than most Merino wool. Quivet, llama, camel, guanaco, vicuña, yak wool, bison wool, dehaired cow down and Angora rabbit were also differentiated from alpaca, mohair and cashmere. There were important differences in the softness and FC of cashmere from different origins with cashmere from newer origins of production (Australia, New Zealand and USA) having lower resistance to compression than cashmere from traditional sources of China and Iran. Cashmere from different origins was differentiated on the basis of resistance to compression, FC and fibre diameter. Cashgora was differentiated from cashmere by having a lower FC and lower resistance to compression. There were minority effects of colour and fibre diameter variation on resistance to compression of cashmere. The implications of these findings for the identification and use of softer raw materials are discussed.     

不同动物纤维的毡缩性能分析

应用毡缩球法研究了羊毛、马海毛、兔绒、山羊绒、绵羊绒和牦牛绒的毡缩性能.先测量出6种纤维的摩擦因数,然后采用毡缩球法分别测量6种纤维的毡缩性能,分析兔绒与羊毛混纺以及马海毛与羊毛混纺时混合比对纤维毡缩性能的影响.此外,还分析了羊毛和马海毛长度对纤维毡缩性能的影响.得出兔绒与羊毛混纺、马海毛与羊毛混纺时混纺比对混纺纤维毡缩性能的影响规律,以及纤维长度对其毡缩性能的影响规律.     

牦牛绒与骆驼绒及羊绒的物理性能对比

针对牦牛绒纱线开发难度较高的现状,以研究牦牛绒纤维的可纺性为目的,对其物理力学性能,如表面鳞片结构、长度、细度、强伸性、卷曲性及摩擦性进行了分析,并与产品开发较为成熟的骆驼绒及羊绒纤维进行对比。结果表明：虽然 3 种纤维表面结构形态基本相似,但牦牛绒纤维长度较短、细度较细,相比骆驼绒及羊绒其纺制高支纱的难度也较高;因具有较高的整体强度和卷曲率以及较好的摩擦效应,纯纺难度低于骆驼绒及羊绒,用其制作的面料更具身骨。     

Determination of the Most Commonly Recognized and Used Keratin Based Luxury Fibers

There is a group of animal fibers known as “luxury fibers.” These are mohair, cashmere, camel hair, lama, alpaca, vicuna, guanaco, angora, yak, and quivit. In this study, the effects of demographical variables such as gender, education, age, sector, and income on the recognition and usage of luxury fibers in Thrace Region of Turkey were investigated. In order to analyze the obtained data, crosstabulation and chi-square statistical methods are used. According to the experimental results it can be said that the most commonly known and used luxury fibers are cashmere, mohair, and angora. The most important (37.6%) reason for participants to use luxury fibers is their warm feeling. On the other hand the most important (approx. 30%) reason for participants not to use them is that they do not have sufficient information about these fibers. It was determined that the most commonly (37.8%) used textile product made of luxury fibers is outerwear. Furthermore, it was found out that approximately 75% of participants accept paying more for garment containing luxury fibers because of their high quality.     

Cuticle and cortical cell morphology of alpaca and other rare animal fibres

The null hypothesis of the experiments reported is that the cuticle and cortical morphology of rare animal fibres are similar. The investigation also examined if the productivity and age of alpacas were associated with cuticle morphology and if seasonal nutritional conditions were related to cuticle scale frequency. Cuticle and cortical cell dimensions and ellipticity of the fibre cross section were investigated in 32 samples of cashmere, alpaca, mohair, bison, qiviut and vicuña from various origins. In addition, 24 Peruvian alpaca samples from animals ages 2–6 years and of varying fleece productivity were examined. Cuticle scale frequency, cuticle thickness and cortical cell dimensions (length, diameter, volume and ratio of length to diameter) and ellipticity differed between fibres and cuticle scale frequency also varied with mean fibre diameter. For Peruvian alpaca fleece samples, cuticle scale frequency varied with the age of alpaca and fleece productivity. Fibre ellipticity increased with increasing fibre diameter. Cortical cell length was strongly related to cortical cell diameter. The cuticle scale morphology of these rare animal fibres did not have fixed dimensions. Using cuticle scale morphology as a diagnostic tool to positively identify rare natural animal fibres needs to standardize measurements for fibre diameter but will still be affected by differences in animal productivity.     

24—THE EFFECT OF FIBRE PROPERTIES AND WEAVE CRIMP ON THE HYGRAL EXPANSION OF WOVEN WOOL FABRICS

A study is reported in which 53 plain-weave and 55 twill-weave fabrics were produced under nominally identical conditions from different wool lots ranging greatly in fibre properties. The hygral expansion of these fabrics was measured and related to the various fibre properties and weave crimp.

It was found that fabric geometry, as reflected in weave crimp, was the most important factor contributing to hygral expansion, higher weave crimp leading to higher hygral expansion. Weave crimp also increased with an increase in staple crimp, as did hygial expansion, the effect of staple crimp being largely due to its effect on weave crimp.

Results obtained on the 108 all-wool fabrics and on six mohair fabrics produced under identical conditions to the all-wool fabrics indicated that weave crimp rather than fibre properties per se plays the main rôle in determining hygral expansion.     

维纶基大豆纤维与维纶的鉴别和性能比较

采用不同方法对维纶基大豆纤维与维纶进行了鉴别,并对两者的物理性能和化学性能进行了测试与分析.结果表明:用燃烧鉴别法、显微镜现察法、化学溶解法、药品着色法和红外吸收光谱法都能鉴别区分维纶基大豆纤维与维纶;维纶基大豆纤维的干、湿态初始模量和断裂强度小于维纶,而其干、湿态断裂伸长率均大于维纶;在纤维与纤维静摩擦中,维纶基大豆...     

兔毛低温等离子体表面改性

兔毛纤维表面鳞片层导致兔毛纤维表面非常光滑,纤维之间的摩擦因数小,纤维之间的抱合差,织物容易掉毛,染色性能不好,故采用低温等离子体技术对兔毛表面进行改性处理。通过扫描电镜(SEM)和CDCA-100F表面动态接触角测量仪对改性后的兔毛纤维进行表征与分析。结果显示:经过等离子体处理后,兔毛纤维表面的鳞片层逐渐消失,纤维表面产生明显刻蚀,兔毛纤维的前进角、后退角明显降低;经过等离子体处理兔毛纤维的卷曲度得到提高,兔毛纤维的强度基本不变。