Influence of wave-current interactions on fluid force

Influence of wave-current interactions on fluid force on a single cylinder and on two cylinders in tandem is examined. Quantities obtained are spectra of fluid force on elements, total fluid force and its statical moment. Comparisons are made of the cases in which wave-current interactions are considered and ignored. It is shown that interactions affect spectra of element force and statical moment more than do total force spectrum. For two cylinders in tandem, for cylinder spacings, current conditions and frequency range of practical interest, the effect of interactions is slightly reduced.     

数理统计方法在海浪灾害特征分析中的应用

利用数理统计方法对46 a来中国沿海灾害性海浪过程进行分析,得出台风浪灾害、冷空气气旋浪灾害的年际分布规律,并采用回归分析法预测灾害性海浪过程多年变化趋势。结果显示:中国沿海台风浪灾害偏轻年份少于冷空气气旋浪灾害,但台风浪灾害程度更轻,使用ARIMA模型可以预测未来多年灾害性海浪年过程变化趋势。     

Role of eicosenoic and docosenoic fatty acids in fresh water and marine lipids

The isomeric compositions of the eicosenoic and docosenoic fatty acids of four freshwater fish oils (from sheepshead Aplodinotus grunniens, tullibee Coregonus artedii, maria Lota lota and alewife Alosa pseudoharengus, respectively) were examined by open-tubular gas—liquid chromatography. The 22:1ω11 isomer, usually the dominant isomer in marine-fish oils, was unimportant relative to 22:1ω9. The unsaponifiables lacked fatty alcohols and pristane and were mostly cholesterol. The probability that the 22:1ω1 in marine fish oils is strictly of an exogenous origin (primarily originating as the fatty alcohol in copepod wax esters) is reviewed and it is proposed that docosenoic acids have no obligatory role in the lipid biochemistry of either marine or freshwater fish.     

A chemical investigation of the transport and fate of petroleum hydrocarbons in littoral and benthic environments: The TSESIS oil spill

The fate of saturated and aromatic hydrocarbons discharged into the coastal Baltic Sea environment from the TSESIS oil spill has been studied in the acute and postacute (one year) phases of the spill. Periodic samples of Mytilus edulis (mussels) from eight littoral zone stations and Macoma balthica from nine soft bottom stations were obtained as well as sediment trap samples and surface sediment samples. Glass capillary gas chromatography and gas chromatographic mass spectrometry were used as the analytical tools to determine saturated and aromatic hydrocarbon composition and concentrations in these samples.Sediment trap samples indicated that sizable quantities of chemically and microbially weathered oil were sedimented, and available for benthic uptake shortly after the spill. After initial uptake of sedimented oil (500 to 1000 μ/g dry weight), Macoma populations appear to have begun slow depuration through the first winter after the spill, but TSESIS oil was again introduced to the benthic stations studied during the following summer. Mytilus populations in the region were severely impacted by the oil. Initial depuration of spilled oil during the first month was rapid and nearly complete at all but the most heavily impacted stations one year after the spill. The post-spill depuration of assimilated hydrocarbons was characterised by a relative retention of alkylated dibenzothiophenes and alkylated phenanthrenes compared to their unsubstituted parent compounds and compared with the entire homologous naphthalene series.These data suggest that petroleum hydrocarbons from the TSESIS spill have become a chronic source of degraded saturated and aromatic hydrocarbons to the soft bottom benthic communities. Petroleum hydrocarbons in the benthic environment from this spill appear to reside in the difficulty sampled and mobile flucculent layer at the sediment/water interface and may affect epifaunal communities for an extended period of time.     

Comparison of linear and nonlinear extreme wave statistics

An extremely large (“freak”) wave is a typical though rare phenomenon observed in the sea. Special theories (for example, the modulation instability theory) were developed to explain mechanics and appearance of freak waves as a result of nonlinear wave-wave interactions. In this paper, it is demonstrated that the freak wave appearance can be also explained by superposition of linear modes with the realistic spectrum. The integral probability of trough-to-crest waves is calculated by two methods: the first one is based on the results of the numerical simulation of a wave field evolution performed with one-dimensional and two-dimensional nonlinear models. The second method is based on calculation of the same probability over the ensembles of wave fields constructed as a superposition of linear waves with random phases and the spectrum similar to that used in the nonlinear simulations. It is shown that the integral probabilities for nonlinear and linear cases are of the same order of values     

Evaluation of methods to remove inertial force from measured model wave impact force signals

The subject of wave impact on offshore structures and their components is important to vessel designers and operators for many reasons. They are often required to quantify these impact loads. Standard methods for wave load prediction will underestimate the forces on these structures due to intermittent loading. This necessitates the use of physical model tests to establish wave impact loads. The model measurement systems are designed to have high stiffness. This ensures that the natural frequency of the structure is above the wave frequency. However, it is widely believed that impacting waves contain high-frequency energy components that cause the structure to vibrate at its modal frequencies. This impact-induced vibration is recorded by the measuring system as a force (inertial force), and corrupts the actual applied force measurement. Before scaling can occur, the inertial force must be removed from the measured signal.A number of techniques for removing inertial force from measured signals are described in the published literature. Three methods are discussed, implemented and compared in this paper. The algorithms and procedures are presented. Each technique contains inherent and unique problems, while some are common to all methods.Neither of the techniques produced results that are fully satisfactory. The main problem is unwanted high-frequency content after the application of the methods. While neither method offers the perfect solution, the use of digital filtering techniques is recommended based on their relative performance and ease of implementation.     

The monosaccharide spectra of natural waters

Monosaccharides were determined in waters and sediment pore waters from a wide variety of environments and locations. Desalting was performed by electrodialysis and concentrated extracts were analyzed by two forms of liquid chromatography. At least 12 sugars were identified. Glucose and fructose were the dominant monosaccharides in nearly all samples examined. Analyses of over 150 seawater and sediment pore water samples showed that fructose is highly significantly correlated (>0.99) with glucose concentrations. Laboratory kinetic experiments on the epimerization reaction, glucose ? fructose, in sterilized natural seawater in the dark, yielded a forward rate constant, k₁, of 1.2 × 10^?5 h^?1 at 25°C and 1.6 × 10^?7 h^?1 at 2°C. The approximate time required to attain equilibrium at 25°C was 1.1 y and at 2°C, 15.4 y; the measured equilibrium constant was in the range 0.3–0.4. The actual ratio of fructose to glucose in natural water samples was usually in the range 1.0–1.4/l, independent of the total monosaccharide concentrations, which varied in the samples by a factor of ～100. Several possible explanations for the apparent discrepancy in the determined and found ratios are discussed: the presence of universal, as yet, undiscovered major biological sources for fructose in marine environments; preferential utilization of glucose; preferential incorporation of fructose into or onto inorganic colloids; and preferential formation of fructose-transition metal ion associations.     

Haeundae Beach in Korea: Seasonal-to-decadal wave statistics and impulsive beach responses to typhoons

Haeundae Beach represents Korean pocket beaches that are currently erosional and dominated by summertime typhoons. The decadal wave characteristics 9 km offshore of Haeundae Beach were analyzed using the WAM model that was validated through the 2007 wave observations. The wave statistics modelled for 1979–2007 indicates that the seasonal mean significant wave height (H _s ) is highest (0.6–0.7 m) in summer due to typhoons, in contrast to the lowest (around 0.5 m) autumn analog. The wave direction is also pronouncedly seasonal with the principal bearings of SSW and NE in the summer and winter seasons, respectively. The WAM results additionally show that the H _s has gradually increased over the region of Haeundae Beach since 1993. Beach profiling during June–November 2014 shows the opposite processes of the typhoon and fair-weather on beach sands. During a typhoon, foreshore sands were eroded and then accumulated as sand bars on the surf zone. In the subsequent fair-weather, the sand bars moved back to the beach resulting in the surf-zone erosion and foreshore accretion. A total of 5 cycles of these beach-wide sand movements yielded a net retreat (up to 20 m) of the shoreline associated with large foreshore erosion. However, the surf zone only slightly accumulated as a result of the sand cycles. This was attributed to the sand escape offshore from the westernmost tip of the beach. The present study may provide an important clue to understanding the erosional processes in Haeundae Beach.     

Numerical simulation of nonlinear wave and force generated by a wedge-shape wave maker

Nonlinear waves and forces induced by a wedge-shape wave maker were simulated in a potential-theory-based fully nonlinear 2D Numerical Wave Tank (NWT). The NWT is developed in a time domain by using Boundary Element Method (BEM) including Mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian method (MEL) and Runge–Kutta 4th-order (RK4) integration as a time marching process. For ensuring accurate nonlinear free surface both material-node and semi-Lagrangian approach are independently developed for crosschecking. The acceleration-potential scheme is used for obtaining accurate time derivative of velocity potential. The developed NWT is utilized to calculate water particle velocity and a series of higher-harmonic force components on the wave maker. The added-mass and radiation-damping coefficients of the wave maker are also obtained from the least-square method. The simulation results are compared with the experimental and numerical results of other researchers. To compare the relative importance of free-surface and body-surface nonlinearities, a body nonlinear formulation is independently developed. Force by body nonlinear method is in good agreement with fully nonlinear result in case of low body-stroke frequency.     

Distribution of total Al,Cd, Co,Cu, Ni and Zn in the tongue of the ocean and the northwestern Atlantic Ocean

The elements Al, Cd, Co, Cu, Ni and Zn were concentrated from seawater using tetraethylenepentamine resin and analysed by atomic absorption spectrophotometry. The spatial distribution of these elements in the northwest Atlantic Ocean is discussed with respect to possible riverine inputs to the area from Puerto Rico.     

Mass solubility and aqueous activity coefficients of stable organic chemicals in the marine environment: polychlorinated biphenyls

The solubilities and aqueous activity coefficients of polychlorinated biphenyls were measured in distilled and saline water (30? salinity). Solubilities in distilled water ranged from 3 · 10^?4 g/l for dichlorobiphenyls to 6 · 10^?6 g/l for heptachlorobiphenyls; values in artificial seawater were about five times lower than the corresponding values in distilled water. In both cases, the solubilities decreased regularly with increasing degree of chlorination. The corresponding activity coefficients are inversely proportional to the chlorine content and range from 4 · 10⁷ to 4 · 10⁹ in distilled water and from 3 · 10⁸ to 1.5 · 10¹⁰ in saline water. Both the solubilities and activity coefficients agree well with those predicted from additivity considerations. The physical chemical aspects discussed in this paper can be applied in determining the solubility behavior of other stable organic molecules in the marine environment.     

波列在时、空域的数值模拟试验及波要素的统计比较

利用Longuet-Higgins 波浪模型,分别用无因次JONSWAP谱和文圣常谱生成时间序列的表面波列与其相匹配的空间序列表面波列,作波浪特征波要素间关系的数值试验检验.由实测资料核对表明,以往有关工程上应用的理论和经验关系有的可信度高,有的似应作改进,特别不能将在时间序列上得到的有关经验数据贸然用在空间序列的表面波上.     

Random wave-current interactions in water of varying depth

Refraction of incoherent random gravity waves with currents and bottom topography results in spatial variations in the spectral characteristics of the free surface. Prediction of such variations based on the radiation transfer equation is in a simple analytic form for the case of one dimensional inhomogeneities in currents and topography. This analytic form is examined in terms of two-dimensional wave number- and polar frequency-direction spectra along the associated dynamic and kinematic constraints relevant to wave breaking and reflection. Results are specialized to the simplest case of horizontal shear currents in deep and shallow water with explicit examples to illustrate the relative and combined effects of currents and topography on free surface spectra.     

Comparison of wave statistics obtained by using continuous and digitized form of random waves

The paper presents the comparison of wave statistics for the Karwar area of Karnataka Coast, India, obtained by using a continuous form of random waves recorded on a strip chart recorder, and the digitized form of the same random waves. The digitization is done manually at 2-sec intervals. It is observed that for a record of 100 waves, the difference (or errors) in the various wave statistics like etc. are within a reasonable limit of disagreement. Hence, the digitized data can be used to obtain the wave statistics after applying a correction factor. Only two records have been analysed due to non-availability of data.     

The estimation of wave height and wind speed persistence statistics from cumulative probability distributions

Results are summarized of an investigation concerned with the development and validation of a method for estimating persistence statistics from cumulative probability distributions. Primary attention has been devoted to estimations of wave height persistence and the motivation has been the requirement to provide estimates of persistence statistics as an additional output for the wave climate synthesis programme called NMIMET which can provide data on a worldwide basis. The opportunity has also been taken to adapt the methods developed for application to estimation of wind speed persistence.A method due to Graham is taken as the starting point and is modified in the light of detailed examination of a number of measured data sets. The method thus derived is shown to be more reliable and much simpler to apply than Graham's method and to give results in good agreement with a range of measured data sets for both exceedance and non exceedance. The measured data used for validation include 2 sets in areas remote from the sites in UK waters used for most of the development. A comparison is also included between persistence statistics estimated using NMIMET output of wave height probabilities from visual wave data and results from measured data.     

The study of wave pressure and uplift force on a submerged plate

Boundary element method (BEM) is used to study wave pressure acting on a vertical quay, as well as the uplift forces on a submerged plate. The plate, placed in front of the quay, is bored with holes. The results are then compared with the case of a plate without any perforation.The results showed that: for q/h = 0.45, where q is the depth of submergence of the plate and h is water depth, wave pressure acting on the vertical quay is very similar for plates with or without borings. However, with q/h = 0.20, wave pressure on the quay is changed according to wave periods, widths of the plate, the distance of the plate away from the quay, as well as the ratio of the holes to the plates. Uplift forces exerted on the plate are indeed smaller for plates with borings than without, and decrease with increasing porous ratio. Furthermore, the uplift forces will be the same for the same porous ratios, regardless of these ratios being caused by a single or a double perforation.     

Study on scattering wave force of horizontal and vertical plate type breakwaters

The interaction between wave and horizontal and vertical plates is investigated by the boundary element method,and the relations of wave exciting force with plate thickness,submergence and length are obtained.It is found that:1) The efficient wave exciting force exists while plate submergence is less than 0.5 m,and the plate is very thin with order O(0.005 m).2) The maximum heave wave exciting force exists,and it is the main factor for surface and submerged horizontal plate while the roll force can be ignored.3) The maximum sway wave exciting force exists,it is the main factor for surface or submerged vertical plate,and the roll force is about 20 times of horizontal plate.     

Trace metals and hydrocarbons in sediments from the Southampton water region,with particular reference to the influence of oil refinery effluent

The concentrations of a number of trace metals (Co, Ni, Cu, Zn, Ag, Cd and Hg) have been determined in sediments from cores collected in the Southampton Water region. Measurements of total hydrocarbons were also made on several of the cores. Markedly elevated concentrations of copper, up to 362 μg/g dry wt, were found in sediments which were collected close to the discharge points of oil refinery outfalls and which also showed concentrations of total hydrocarbons considerably greater than the background levels for the estuary. The results of selective chemical extractions showed that much of the copper was present in the non-lattice fraction of the sediment. Although the concentrations of Co, Ni, Zn and Cd were significantly correlated with those of copper in the core showing the highest concentrations of this element, these metals were not enhanced in comparison with the levels found in several other parts of the estuary. Variations in concentrations of metals in sediments throughout the estuary were not correlated with differences in organic carbon content.     

动力输出系统(PTO)对集成波能转换装置式防波堤消波性能及波能捕获率影响研究

针对波浪能转换装置(WEC)研究重点主要集中在能量捕获效率方面,而忽略其附带的消波功能的问题。基于Open FOAM程序,建立垂荡浮子式波浪能发电装置与桩式约束的浮式防波堤的集成系统(OBC-FB)。主要研究WEC中的重要组件动力输出系统(PTO)对集成系统波能捕获效率及消波性能的影响。分析流体黏性影响下线性PTO系统的最优PTO阻尼特性。开发非线性电磁阻尼模型与线性PTO系统性能进行比较。结果显示,考虑黏性影响下线性的最优PTO阻尼系数略大于无黏的理论值;适当增大PTO阻尼系数可以获得更大的波能捕获宽度比(CWR),从而可以保证装置单位特征尺寸的波能转换效率更高,同时可以在更宽波况范围保证消波性能;相较于线性PTO阻尼系统,非线性电磁PTO阻尼系统可以更好地兼顾波能捕获效率和消波性能。因此,在OBC-FB集成系统的优化设计中,PTO阻尼系统是一个重要的优化参数。     

A quasi-cloaking phenomenon to reduce the wave drift force on an array of adjacent floating bodies

The mooring of offshore floating structures, such as offshore platforms, in large waves against drift forces and rotational moments is a challenging problem in offshore engineering. To accurately investigate such problems, called positioning problems, the time-averaged steady forces of the second order known as the wave drift forces must be taken into account. Fortunately, a cloaking phenomenon occurs under certain conditions and dramatically reduces the wave drift force acting on such a floating body, as previously reported by several researchers. In the diffraction problem of water waves, cloaking refers to the condition where there is no scattering in the form of radial outgoing waves. The reduction of wave drift force on a truncated cylinder with the occurrence of cloaking phenomenon has been numerically and experimentally confirmed. In this paper, the arrangement of several small circular cylinders at regular intervals in a circle concentric with a fixed floating body is considered as an effective means of reducing the wave drift force. Using a combination of a higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM) and wave interaction theory, the influences of the geometric parameters of the outer surrounding cylinders on the wave drift force and the total scattered-wave energy are systematically investigated and discussed. A quasi-cloaking phenomenon is first found and reported in the present study, which is beneficial and flexible for application in practical engineering. More than one quasi-cloaking trigger (where a trigger is an occurrence condition) can be found simply by varying the distance between the inner and outer floating bodies.