波生流对海岸污染物输移的影响

通过物理模型实验对海岸波浪作用下污染物运动特性进行了分析,重点分析了质量输移流、沿岸流、沿岸流不稳定运动及破波带内旋涡运动等海岸水动力因素的影响.实验中坡度分别取为1:100和1:40,实验中采用CCD摄像机记录墨水的运动轨迹,同步测量流体质点速度以及波面升高.实验表明,在破碎带外污染物主要受波浪非线性引起的质量输移流的影响;在破碎带内主要受沿岸流的影响,同时还受沿岸流不稳定运动及大尺度旋涡运动的影响.     

珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化实验研究

通过波浪水槽实验对珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演变规律开展研究,实验采用了概化的岸礁模型,测试了4种礁坪水深、4种礁前斜坡坡度和一系列入射波高的组合工况。对破碎带宽度和破碎带附近波浪的入射、反射、透射以及能量耗散进行了测量分析,透射波的计算考虑了礁坪上高次谐波的影响。结果表明:礁坪水深和入射深水波高的比值(即礁坪相对水深)是影响岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化的关键参数,而礁前斜坡坡度的影响在本文测量的范围内可以忽略不计。破碎带宽度与礁坪上浅水波波长为同一数量级,并与礁坪相对水深成反比;透射系数随礁坪相对水深的增大呈线性增长,而反射系数的变化却无类似规律;岸礁能够削弱超过50%入射波能,礁坪相对水深越小,波浪破碎造成的能量耗散越大。     

珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究

为了研究珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流特性,通过水槽实验对规则波浪作用下珊瑚岸礁上沿礁分布的水位和流速进行了详细的测量。在典型卷破波条件下,测试了礁冠存在与不存在的两种情况。实验结果表明,多重波浪反射作用引起岸礁上形成不完全驻波,而破碎带附近的浅化作用则产生高次谐波,波浪破碎所耗散的波能主要来源于主频波,礁坪上透射波成分中二次谐波与主频波的能量相当;礁冠的存在引起破碎带宽度减小、礁坪上增水变大以及礁坪上各次谐波变小;礁冠不存在时,岸礁上波生流的沿礁分布与平直海岸相似,而礁冠的存在一定程度上阻碍了礁坪上水体向外海的回流。研究成果将丰富和发展珊瑚礁水动力学理论,并为岛礁工程的建设和维护提供一定的理论参考。     

海岸破波带内水底悬沙浓度形成机理实验研究

通过大尺度水槽波浪引起泥沙悬移的动床模型实验,研究了沙坝海岸破波带内水底悬沙浓度形成机理,通过比较时间平均水底悬沙浓度与时间平均水底波浪水质点动能或时间平均水底湍动能之间的相关性,论证了利用时间平均湍动能比利用时间平均波浪水质点动能计算时间平均水底悬沙浓度更为适用,并提出了以上时间平均水底悬沙浓度与水底湍动能之间的关系也可以用来近似表达时间变化的水底悬沙浓度与时间变化的水底湍动能之间的关系。研究针对规则波、波群和不规则波3种波浪形态进行,并分别对破波带内的爬坡区、内破波区和沙坝区3个区域实验结果进行讨论。     

Rip current charactersitics and their role in the exchange of water and surf diatoms between the surf zone and nearshore

Photogrammetric measurements of dye dispersion in a high-energy surf zone provided semi-quantitative measurements of the pattern and flux of water exchange between the surf zone and nearshore. The intensity of current flow, the rip morphology and its position within the surf zone have important ecological implications for the surf zone and nearshore biota. A variety of water-movement patterns was found, ranging from currents which remained confined to the beach terrace to those which involved substantial exchange across the breaker line. In considering rips as exchange mechanisms, two rip types are recognized. Depending on the exchange of water across the breaker line, a rip may be classified as ‘exchange’ or ‘non-exchange’. The ecological significance of these current types is discussed and a classification scheme for rip currents is proposed. Offshore fluxes across the breaker line by rip currents ranged from negligible to 80 m³s⁻¹ rip⁻¹. The estimated maximum flux per running meter of the Sundays River Beach was calculated as 0·0.32m ³ s⁻¹. The half-residence period of surf-zone water ranged from as little as 22 min t0 5 days, averaging 3·6 h.A dichotomy of current patterns found between the water column and surface layers is used to explain the build up of a concentration gradient in cell numbers of the surf diatom Anaulus birostratus within the surf zone despite extensive flushing by surf circulation.     

平直斜坡上破波带内质量输移流对污染物输移影响的数值研究

破波带内外都有质量输移流存在,其对破波带内污染物输移有怎样的影响,需要进一步深入研究。本文基于实验以及考虑质量输移流的对流扩散数学模型研究了平直斜坡上破波带内质量输移流对污染物输移影响。数学模型包括波浪模型、近岸流模型以及对流扩散模型。首先建立了破波带内污染物输移数学模型,其中波浪场基于波能守恒方程来计算,波导流场基于Longuet-Higgins提出的辐射应力模拟,污染物对流扩散方程中考虑了质量输移流的影响,并利用算例验证该数学模型。其次简要介绍了平直斜坡上破波带内污染物输移实验,并分析了污染物输移特性。连续投放污染物会形成污染带,本文分析了两种波况下不同时刻污染带与岸线夹角的变化,以及污染物在垂直岸线和沿岸线方向的输移速度,结果表明对两种波况来说在初始10-40s污染团向岸线方向输移速度分别约为0.05m/s、0.017m/s,之后速度分别减小为0.001m/s、0.011m/s。数值模拟结果与实验结果比较表明：考虑质量输移流的模拟结果与实验更为吻合。因而,通过实验以及数模研究表明破波带内质量输移流对破波带内污染物在垂直岸线方向的输移有重要影响,而对沿岸方向的输移则影响较小。     

Macrobenthic surf zone communities of temperate sandy beaches: spatial and temporal patterns

The spatial and temporal patterns within the surf zone epibenthic assemblages were studied in a coastal fringe of Argentina to determine whether assemblage compositions, abundance, species richness and diversity vary spatially and temporarily. Sampling was conducted seasonally in two sandy beaches over 2 years with a benthic sledge used to collect the fauna in the upper centimeters of soft bottom sediments and the epifauna on the sediment surface. Physical variables were measured in the same coastal sites where biological sampling was conducted. A total of 58 morphospecies were collected. Peracarid crustaceans were the most abundant group. The mysid Pseudobranchiomysis arenae (new genus–new species) (29.73 ± 17.79 ind. per sample) and the isopod Leptoserolis bonaerensis (51.54 ± 22.35 ind. per sample) were the most abundant and common species and were present regularly throughout the sampling period. Differences in the surf zone community composition were found between the beaches; these differences could be related to variation in physical parameters such as sand grain size and wave climate, indicating the possible influence of the morphodynamic state of the beaches on the epibenthic assemblages. A seasonal abundance trend was detected, reflecting the changes in abundance of the two dominant species; the richness pattern was not easily detectable due to the sporadic appearance of non‐resident species in the surf zone, probably due to different causes, including dispersion by entry of water from surrounding areas, littoral currents and storms. The surf zone studied presents a complex and dynamic epibenthic community that appears to be influenced by the morphodynamic state of the beach and the dynamic of non‐resident species.     

双色波引起的碎波拍的数值研究

碎波拍是指在近岸水域沿海岸线正向传播、周期为0.5~5.0 min的波浪.碎波拍是近岸低频波浪的一种,最早由Munk[1]和Tucker[2]独立观测到并命名.     

Occurrence of larval fishes in the surf zone of a northern Gulf of Mexico barrier island

Larval fishes were collected from the surf zone of Horn Island, Mississippi between March 1978 and April 1979. A standardized total of 39 435 larvae were taken from 222 collections in the inner and outer surf zone regions, representing fish in 69 taxa. Overall, considerably more larvae were collected in the outer surf zone (78·3%) than in the inner surf zone (21·7%). Engraulids, Chloroscombrus chrysurus and Symphurus spp. were the most abundant larvae taken from the outer surf zone while engraulids, Leiostomus xanthurus, Brevoortia patronus and Trinectes maculatus were the numerically dominant larvae in the inner surf zone. Seasonal peaks in abundance occurred at the outer surf zone stations during May and June and at the inner surf zone stations during December. Larval densities were significantly greater in night collections than in day collections.The occurrence of early larvae, late larvae and juveniles suggests that the surf zone habitat is important to several species of coastal marine fishes. Menticirrhus littoralis, Harengula jaguana and Trachinotus carolinus appear to most readily utilize the surf zone as a nursery area.     

南沙群岛礁概化地形上拍岸浪数值模拟与统计分析

南沙群岛珊瑚岛礁众多,大多数岛礁具有向海坡陡峭、外礁坪比较平缓的特征。将南沙群岛岛礁的迎浪向地形概化为陡坡和缓坡组成的双斜坡,采用FUNWAVE-TVD模式数值模拟概化地形上的波浪,根据模拟的破碎波高分析其拍岸浪特征。对拍岸浪数值模拟结果进行比较分析,向海坡的坡度对拍岸浪影响不大,外礁坪上拍岸浪高随地形坡度增大而略有增大;向海坡和外礁坪交界位置(即坡折点)水深对拍岸浪有比较明显的影响,拍岸浪高随坡折点水深增大而减小;拍岸浪高随入射波高和波周期增大而增大。利用大量的拍岸浪数值模拟数据对国内外5种统计模型进行检验,并且基于拍岸浪数值模拟数据建立了3种南沙群岛岛礁拍岸浪统计模型,计算结果显示这些模型适用性较好。     

Numerical study of wave and longshore current interaction

Wave and longshore current interaction was examined based on the numerical models.In these models,water waves in the presence of longshore currents were modeled by parabolic mild slope equation,and wave breaking induced longshore currents were modeled by shallow water equation.Water wave provided the radiation stress gradients to drive current.Wave and longshore current interactions were considered by cycling the wave and longshore current models to a steady state.The experiments for regular and irregular breaking wave induced longshore currents by Hamilton and Ebersole（2001） and Reniers and Battjes（1997） were simulated.The numerical results indicate that the present models are effective for simulating the interaction of wave and breaking wave induced longshore currents,and the numerically simulated longshore current at wave breaking point considering wave and longshore current interaction show some disagreement with those neglecting the wave-current interaction,and the breaking wave induced longshore current effect on wave transformation is not obvious.     

Ichthyoplankton in a southern african surf zone: Nursery area for the postlarvae of estuarine associated fish species?

The surf zone ichthyoplankton of Swartvlei Bay was studied between February 1986 and June 1987, with particular emphasis on its potential role as a nursery area for estuarine associated marine fish species. Larvae and/or postlarvae of 16 families were identified from the surf zone, with the Gobiidae, Soleidae, Sparidae and Mugilidae comprising 85·7% of all teleosts sampled. The postlarvae of several taxa (including the six most common species), which utilize the Swartvlei estuary as a juvenile nursery area, were abundant in the surf zone. Conversely, species which are common in nearshore marine waters as juveniles and adults, but seldom enter estuaries, totalled less than 8% of the surf zone ichthyoplankton assemblage.Larval and postlarval densities peaked during summer when water temperatures exceeded 19°C and the estuary mouth was open. Concentrations of ichthyoplankton were highest at those sampling stations closest to the estuary mouth during the summer period. Diel changes in total catches revealed no significant difference between day and night densities; but of the four major taxa, the Mugilidae and Sparidae tended to be more abundant during the day, the Gobiidae at night and the Soleidae showed no distinct pattern. Results from a 24 h sampling session indicated that tidal phase may also be important in governing ichthyoplankton abundance in the surf zone.     

Numerical Simulation of the Three-Dimensional Wave-Induced Currents on Unstructured Grid

By coupling the three-dimensional hydrodynamic model with the wave model, numerical simulations of the three-dimensional wave-induced current are carried out in this study. The wave model is based on the numerical solution of the modified wave action equation and eikonal equation, which can describe the wave refraction and diffraction. The hydrodynamic model is driven by the wave-induced radiation stresses and affected by the wave turbulence. The numerical implementation of the module has used the finite-volume schemes on unstructured grid, which provides great flexibility for modeling the waves and currents in the complex actual nearshore, and ensures the conservation of energy propagation. The applicability of the proposed model is evaluated in calculating the cases of wave set-up, longshore currents, undertow on a sloping beach, rip currents and meandering longshore currents on a tri-cuspate beach. The results indicate that it is necessary to introduce the depth-dependent radiation stresses into the numerical simulation of wave-induced currents, and comparisons show that the present model makes better prediction on the wave procedure as well as both horizontal and vertical structures in the wave-induced current field.     

Pilot assessment of depth related distribution of macrofauna in surf zone along Dutch coast and its implications for coastal management

Surf zones are highly dynamic, physically stressful parts of sandy beach ecosystems. The high wave energy of surf zones has in the past severely hampered ecological surveys of these systems. Here we used a novel technique to collect fauna from this environment along the Dutch coast. A large vehicle in the form a tripod that drives along the sandy seafloor and supports a sampling platform 11 m above the water line can collect both infaunal (grabs) samples and pull beam trawls for epibenthos. The distribution and diversity of macrofauna were studied at different depths in the surf zone along the Dutch coast. Species diversity and abundance increased with increasing depth of the water column. This increase was especially noticeable on the seaward side of the outer breaker bar. Within the surf zone, in the trough between the two breaker bars, there were spots of high diversity and abundance of macrobenthic infauna. Moreover, the area is also important for epibenthic and fish species, like the commercially important flatfish sole. Spatial patterns of species richness and abundance across an onshore-offshore gradient from the beach to seawards of the breakers suggest the presence of faunal zonation in this environment. The high abundance recorded in troughs was primarily caused by patches of juvenile Sand mason Lanice conchilega. The management implications of these results are that we suggest to protect the surf zone, including the trough between the two breaker bars, as a potential area of high diversity and abundance and to reconsider the objectives of the EU-Habitat Directive and the Water Framework Directive for the coastal area.     

海岸破碎带植物消浪数值模拟研究

沿海防浪林能形成柔性的植物消浪体系,可以有效降低风暴潮灾害。由于防浪林消浪效果受波浪、近岸水深及植物等多重因素的影响,消浪机理较为复杂,以往的系统研究成果较少。本文以立面二维自由面紊流模型为工具,建立了基于植物冠层特征的多孔介质模型,精细地模拟了破碎波对植物带的冲击,并与物理模型试验结果进行了对比验证,计算分析了植物带宽度、植物密度、滩地水深等因素对消浪效果的影响。     

Laboratory observation of boundary layer flow under spilling breakers in surf zone using particle image velocimetry

A boundary layer flow under spilling breakers in a laboratory surf zone with a smooth bottom is investigated using a high resolution particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique. By cross-correlating the images, oscillatory velocity profiles within a viscous boundary layer of O(1) mm in thickness are resolved over ten points. Using PIV measurements taken for an earlier study and the present study, flow properties in the wave bottom boundary layer (WBBL) over the laboratory surf zone are obtained, including the mean velocities, turbulence intensity, Reynolds stresses, and intermittency of coherent events. The data are then used to estimate the boundary layer thickness, phase variation, and bottom shear stress. It is found that while the time averaged mass transport inside the WBBL is onshore in the outer surf zone, it changes to offshore in the inner surf zone. The zero Eulerian mass transport occurs at h/h_b ≈ 0.92 in the outer surf zone. The maximum overshoot of the streamwise velocity and boundary layer thickness are not constant across the surf zone. The bottom shear stress is mainly contributed by the viscous stress through mean velocity gradient while the Reynolds stress is small and negligible. The turbulence level is higher in the inner surf zone than that in the outer surf zone, although only a slight increase of turbulent intensity is observed inside the WBBL from the outer surf zone to the inner surf zone. The variation of phase inside and outside the WBBL was examined through the spatial velocity distribution. It is found the phase lead is not constant and its value is significantly smaller than previous thought. By analyzing instantaneous velocity and vorticity fields, a remarkable number of intermittent turbulent eddies are observed to penetrate into the WBBL in the inner surf zone. The size of the observed large eddies is about 0.11 to 0.16 times the local water depth. Its energy spectra follow the − 5/3 slope in the inertial subrange and decay exponentially in the dissipation subrange.     

Sediment suspension events in the inner surf and swash zone. Measurements in large-scale and high-energy wave conditions

The present study presents a database of hydrodynamic properties and suspended sediment concentration collected within the inner surf and swash zones aiming to improve the current understanding of the sediment dynamics occurring within the beach area closest to the shoreline.     

Numerical Modeling of the Undertow Structure and Sandbar Migration in the Surfzone

A process-based 3D numerical model for surfzone hydrodynamics and beach evolution was established. Comparisons between the experimental data and model results proved that the model could effectively describe the hydrodynamics, sediment transport feature and sandbar migration process in the surfzone with satisfactory precision. A series of numerical simulations on the wave breaking and shoaling up to a barred beach were carried out based on the model system. Analyzed from the model results, the wave-induced current system in the surfzone consists of two major processes, which are the phase-averaged undertow caused by wave breaking and the net drift caused by both of the nonlinear wave motion and surface roller effect. When storm waves come to the barred beach, the strong offshore undertow along the beach suppresses the onshore net drift, making the initial sandbar migrate to the seaside. Under the condition of calm wave environment, both the undertow and net drift flow to the shoreline at the offshore side of the sandbar, and then push the initial sandbar to the shoreline. The consideration of surface roller has significant impact on the modeling results of the sandbar migration. As the roller transfer rate increases, the sandbar moves onshore especially under the storm wave condition.     

Laboratory study of wave and turbulence velocities in a broad-banded irregular wave surf zone

The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging. The broad-banded irregular waves created a wide surf zone that was dominated by spilling type breakers. A wave-by-wave analysis was carried out to obtain the probability distributions of individual wave heights, wave periods, peak wave velocities, and wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energies and Reynolds stresses. The results showed that there was a consistent increase in the kurtosis of the vertical velocity distribution from the surface to the bottom. The abnormally large downward velocities were produced by plunging breakers that occurred from time to time. It was found that the mean of the highest one-third wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energy values in the irregular waves was about the same as the time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy in a regular wave with similar deep-water wave height to wavelength ratio. It was also found that the correlation coefficient of the Reynolds stress varied strongly with turbulence intensity. Good correlation between u′ and w′ was obtained when the turbulence intensity was high; the correlation coefficient was about 0.3–0.5. The Reynolds stress correlation coefficient decreased over a wave cycle, and with distance from the water surface. Under the irregular breaking waves, turbulent kinetic energy was transported downward and landward by turbulent velocity fluctuations and wave velocities, and upward and seaward by the undertow. The undertow in the irregular waves was similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in regular waves, and the horizontal velocity profiles under the low-frequency waves were approximately uniform.     

基于破碎临界区的新型拍岸浪统计计算模型研究

When waves propagate from deep water to shallow water, wave heights and steepness increase and then waves roll back and break. This phenomenon is called surf. Currently, the present statistical calcula...