Wave grouping characteristics in nearshore Great Lakes

The recently advanced approach of wavelet transform is applied to the analysis of wave data measured in the nearshore areas of the Great Lakes. The conventional spectrum analysis of wave time series in the frequency domain can be readily generalized to the frequency and time domain using the wavelet transform. The traditional Fourier transform approach has not been able to directly assess the time localized nature of wave groups. With the application of wavelet transformation, the relatively unexplored wave grouping characteristics come to light as the predominant feature of wave processes.     

Separation of regular waves by a transfer function method

This paper presents a transfer function method (TFM) which can separate a regular wave field into incident and reflected waves based on the linear wave theory. The TFM uses specific transfer functions and corresponding convolution integrals to separate time series data measured in a combined partial standing wave system into incident and reflected waves. After this separation, estimation of the reflection coefficient becomes very easy. All manipulations have been performed in time domain. Furthermore, this method does not involve the calculation of wave heights and/or phase differences. The present method is demonstrated through numerical sample and physical model experiments carried out in a wave flume. Compared with other methods, the TFM gives much better estimates of the incident wave heights for physical model experiments in this study.     

Is the wind wave frequency spectrum outdated

This paper presents a detailed examination of the practice of using the frequency spectrum to characterize wind waves. In particular, the issue of stationarity and Gaussian random process in connection with wind wave studies is addressed. We describe a test for nonstationarity based on the wavelet spectrum. When this test is applied to wind wave time series, the results significantly diverge from those expected for a Gaussian random process, thus casting critical doubts on the conventional concept of the wind wave frequency spectrum.     

Wave parameters and functions in wavelet analysis

A preliminary study of wave parameters and functions in wavelet analysis is conducted in this paper. The Morlet wavelet transform is used to calculate the time–frequency wavelet energy density function, its volume (i.e. the total energy), its frequency-integral (i.e. the wavelet smoothed instantaneous wave energy history), its time-integral (i.e. the wavelet spectral density function), and two non-dimensional wave indices (NIF, NIT). The processing of the measured wave data obtained from the Chi-Gu coastal observation tower during the period August 2000 to July 2001 indicates that the inter-comparison of wavelet smoothed instantaneous wave energy history and smoothed instantaneous wave energy history (SIWEH) as defined by Funke and Mansard (Proc 17th Int Conf on Ocean Eng, 1980) can reveal the noise structure of the wave signal. The wave data with index NIF greater than 2 is always accompanied with noise, therefore NIF can be used as one of the data quality criteria. The index NIT is linearly correlated with the significant wave period and with the significant wave height, therefore NIT can be used to study the wave growth and decaying phenomena.     

浅谈数学变换在海洋技术中的应用

根据以往的工作积累,作者在文中介绍了在海洋技术中得到应用的几种数学变换,包括基于Fourier变换的频谱分析、波浪分离、相关分析及定义的H artley实现,连续M orlet小波变换在波浪信号分析中的应用,以及离散正交小波变换的降噪作用与悬沙图像的特征提取。文中通过公式推导和数据比较,展示了数学变换在海洋技术应用中的科学魅力。     

Argo观测剖面数据量的时间变化与周期分析

海洋渔业预报使用的遥感数据一般只能获得海洋表面的环境信息,而Argo数据可以为渔业预报提供较深处的温盐数据,为了在渔业预报中按其时间周期进行使用,需要计算它的周期以提高预报质量。通过功率谱估计计算出2001-2008年的数据存在的较长的周期为62．7天和117．5天,较短的周期为4．9天和9．8天,同时还有一个约为7天的不明显周期,观测剖面数据总量在年际与年内都存在较大变化。     

Anisotropy of wind and wave regimes in the Baltic proper

The directional distribution of moderate and strong winds in the Baltic Sea region is shown to be strongly anisotropic. The dominating wind direction is south-west and a secondary peak corresponds to north winds. North-west storms are relatively infrequent and north-east storms are extremely rare. Angular distribution of extreme wind speed also has a two-peaked shape with maxima corresponding to south-west and north winds, and a deep minimum for easterly winds. The primary properties of the anisotropy such as prevailing winds, frequency of their occurrence, directional distribution of mean and maximum wind speeds coincide on both sides of the Baltic proper. The specific wind regime penetrates neither into the mainland nor into the Gulf of Finland or the Gulf of Riga.Properties of the saturated wave field in the neighbourhood of proposed sites of the Saaremaa (Ösel) deep harbour are analysed on the basis of the wave model WAM forced by steady winds. The directional distribution of wave heights in typical and extreme storms is highly anisotropic. Remarkable wave height anomalies may occur in the neighbourhood of the harbour sites.     

Characteristics of developing waves as a function of atmospheric conditions,water properties,fetch and duration

For any specific wind speed, waves grow in period, height and length as a function of the wind duration and fetch until maximum values are reached, at which point the waves are considered to be fully developed. Although equations and nomograms exist to predict the parameters of developing waves for shorter fetch or duration conditions at different wind speeds, these either do not incorporate important variables such as the air and water temperature, or do not consider the combined effect of fetch and duration. Here, the wind conditions required for a fully developed sea are calculated from maximum wave heights as determined from the wind speed, together with a published growth law based on the friction velocity. This allows the parameters of developing waves to be estimated for any combination of wind velocity, fetch and duration, while also taking account of atmospheric conditions and water properties.     

The near-field tsunami amplitudes caused by submarine landslides and slumps spreading in two orthogonal directions

The aim of this study is to present the solutions for the near-field tsunami amplitudes caused by submarine landslumps and slides spreading in two orthogonal directions. A linearized shallow water wave theory is derived. The transform techniques (Fourier and Laplace transform) are used for the solution of Laplace equation. The results show that if the ratio of the velocties is v₁/v₂=0.1, the numerical results are almost the same as the values obtained for one dimensional movement of the slumps and slides. But, when the ratio of the velocties is v₁/v₂=1, obtained normalized peak amplitudes, η_max/ζ₀ are smaller than the numerical values for one dimensional solution. It is concluded that normalized peak amplitudes for the models are small because of the interaction of the velocities. Numerical examples are presented for various parameters.     

Development of a foraminifera-based transfer function in the Basque marshes, N. Spain: Implications for sea-level studies in the Bay of Biscay

In order to reconstruct former sea level we have developed a foraminifera-based transfer function using three models based on a modern dataset of 59 samples and 23 species obtained from four Basque marshes in Northern Spain. The relationship between observed and foraminifera-predicted elevation illustrated the strong performance of the transfer function (r²_jack ranges from 0.74 to 0.81). These results indicated that precise reconstructions of former sea levels are possible (error ranges from 0.11 to 0.19 m). The transfer function was used to calibrate the foraminiferal assemblages collected from a 50 cm salt marsh core. We placed the foraminifera-based reconstructions into a temporal framework using ¹³⁷Cs, Pb concentrations, and ²¹⁰Pb-derived sediment accumulation rates. The resulting relative sea-level curve is in good agreement with regional tide-gauge data. Both instrumental data and microfossil records suggest a rate of relative sea-level rise of approximately 2 mm yr^− 1 for the 20th century.     

Generation of random waves in time-dependent extended mild-slope equations using a source function method

We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary.     

Simulation of Random Waves and Associated Laminar Bottom Shear Stresses

This work presents a new approach for simulating the random waves in viscous fluids and the associated bottom shear stresses. By generating the incident random waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the fully nonlinear free surface boundaiy conditions for the fluid flows in the flume, the viscous flows and laminar bottom shear stresses induced by random waves axe determined. The deterministic spectral amplitude method implemented by use of the fast Fourier transform algorithm was adopted to generate the incident random waves. The accuracy of the numerical scheme is confirmed by comparing the predicted wave spectrum with the target spectrum and by comparing the nanlerical transfer function between the shear stress and the surface elevation with the theoretical transfer function. The maximum bottom shear stress caused by random waves, computed by this wave model, is compared with that obtained by Myrhaug＇ s model （1995）. The transfer function method is also employed to determine the maximum shear stress, and is proved accurate.     

Internal generation of waves: Delta source function method and source term addition method

In this study, we investigate two internal wave generation methods in numerical modeling of time-dependent equations for water wave propagation, i.e., delta source function method and source term addition method, the latter of which has been called the line source method in literatures. We derive delta source functions for the Boussinesq-type equations and extended mild-slope equations. By applying the fractional step splitting method, we show that the delta source function method is equivalent to the source term addition method employing the energy velocity. This suggests that the energy velocity should be used rather than the phase velocity for the transport of incident wave energy in the source term addition method. Finally, the performance of the delta source function method is verified by accurately generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear waves for horizontally one-dimensional cases.     

Modern saltmarsh diatom distributions of the Outer Banks, North Carolina, and the development of a transfer function for high resolution reconstructions of sea level

We collected modern diatom samples from Currituck Barrier Island, Oregon Inlet and Pea Island marshes, Outer Banks, North Carolina, USA, which have different salinity regimes due to their varying distances from a major barrier island inlet. Multivariate analyses separate the saltmarsh diatom assemblages into distinct elevational zones, dominated by differing abundances of polyhalobous, mesohalobous and oligohalobous taxa, suggesting that the distribution of saltmarsh diatoms is a direct function of elevation, with the most important controlling factors being the duration and frequency of subaerial exposure.We developed the first diatom-based transfer function for the east coast of North America to reconstruct former sea levels based upon the relationship between diatom assemblage and elevation. Results imply that this is possible to a precision of ±0.08 m, superior to most similar studies from temperate, mid-latitude environments. The transfer function is used to construct a relative sea-level curve from fossil assemblages from Salvo, North Carolina. These results suggest a sea-level rise of 0.7 m over the last c. 150 years, at an average of c. 3.7 mm year⁻¹. This is consistent with existing sea-level data, and illustrates the utility of the transfer function approach.     

海面噪声场条件下声压与振速的空间互相关函数

介绍了海面噪声场条件下的声压与质点振速的时空相关函数。论证了海面噪声场垂直与水平方向噪声的各向异性程度。结果表明,在垂直于海平面的方向上,噪声场表现为各向异性;在与海面的水平方向上,噪声场表现为各向同性。结果表明,各向同性噪声场条件下基于矢量水听器被动检测的声纳系统目标水平方位角估计是基本可靠的,但垂直方位角的计算需要修正。     

An Efficient Model for Transient Surface Waves in Both Finite and Infinite Water Depths

A numerical model is developed to simulate fully nonlinear extreme waves in finite and infinite water-depth wave tanks. A semi-mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian formulation is adopted and a higher-order boundary element method in conjunction with an image Green function is used for the fluid domain. The boundary values on the free surface are updated at each time step by a fourth-order Runga-Kutta time-marching scheme at each time step. Input wave characteristics are specified at the upstream boundary by an appropr...     

Turbulent heat transfer in a tube fitted with serrated twist tape under rolling and pitching environments with applications to shipping machineries

Turbulent heat transfer in a swinging tube with a serrated twist tape insert was experimentally examined to reveal the effects of swinging oscillations on heat transfer for such a swirl tube under sea-going conditions. This swirl tube swings about two orthogonal axes under single and compound rolling and pitching oscillations. A selection of Nusselt number (Nu) measurements illustrates the influences of swinging oscillations with and without buoyancy interaction on heat transfer performances. Single rolling or pitching oscillation with the swinging frequencies ranging from 0.333 to 1 Hz reduces heat transfer levels from the static references. Synergistic effects of compound rolling and pitching oscillations with either harmonic or non-harmonic rhythms improve heat transfer performances. Buoyancy effects in the swinging swirl tube elevate local Nu, but are weakened as the relative strength of swinging force increases. A set of heat transfer correlations is derived that permits the individual and interactive effects of single and compound swinging force effects with buoyancy interactions on the developed flow heat transfer value () to be quantified.