The reflection of regular and irregular waves by a partially perforated caisson breakwater on a step bed

This study examines the reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater located on a step bed. The step bed is treated as an idealized rubble mound foundation. Based on the linear potential theory, an analytical solution is developed to calculate the reflection coefficient of the structure subjected to regular waves. The matched eigenfunction expansion method is used for the solution. The regular wave method is also extended to irregular waves using a linear transfer function. The calculated results obtained for limiting cases are exactly the same as corresponding results given by the previous researchers. The present predictions also agree well with experimental data in the published literatures. Numerical experiments are conducted to examine the variations of the reflection coefficient versus its main effect factors, and some interesting results are presented.     

Wave reflection from partially perforated-wall caisson breakwater

In 1995, Suh and Park developed a numerical model that computes the reflection of regular waves from a fully perforated-wall caisson breakwater. This paper describes how to apply this model to a partially perforated-wall caisson and irregular waves. To examine the performance of the model, existing experimental data are used for regular waves, while a laboratory experiment is conducted in this study for irregular waves. The numerical model based on a linear wave theory tends to over-predict the reflection coefficient of regular waves as the wave nonlinearity increases, but such an over-prediction is not observed in the case of irregular waves. For both regular and irregular waves, the numerical model slightly over- and under-predicts the reflection coefficients at larger and smaller values, respectively, because the model neglects the evanescent waves near the breakwater.     

Experimental Study of Wave Breaking on Gentle Slope

—An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is performed on a gentleslope of 1:200.In the experiment,asymmetry of wave profile is analyzed to determine its effect on wavebreaker indices and to explain the difference between Goda and Nelson about the breaker indices of regu-lar waves on very mild slopes.The study shows that the breaker index of irregular waves is under less influ-ence of bottom slope i,relative water depth d/L_0 and the asymmetry of wave profile than that of regularwaves.The breaker index of regular waves from Goda may be used in the case of irregular waves, whilethe coefficient A should be 0.15.The ratio of irregular wavelength to the length calculated by linear wavetheory is 0.74.Analysis is also made on the waveheight damping coefficient of regular waves after break-ing and on the breaking probability of large irregular waves.     

Irregular wave kinematics from a kinematic boundary condition fit (KBCF)

Calculation of the kinematics of random waves above the mean water line presents great difficulties. The kinematic boundary condition fit (KBCF) method approximates the solution through the numerical calculation of a potential function which fits the kinematic boundary condition on a specified surface. Comparisons with a high order regular wave show that the method converges to the true solution when the surface is accurately specified. Tests of the method for irregular waves were made with measurements from a laser-Doppler current meter in the Delft wave tank. These tests showed good agreement between theory and measurement when the surface evolution was calculated correct to second order. Stretched linear theory was also compared to the measurements. The stretched velocities were reasonably good when the phases of the component wavelets were measured but somewhat low when the phases were selected from a uniform distribution.     

Linear and nonlinear irregular waves and forces in a numerical wave tank

A time-domain higher-order boundary element scheme was utilized to simulate the linear and nonlinear irregular waves and diffractions due to a structure. Upon the second-order irregular waves with four Airy wave components being fed through the inflow boundary, the fully nonlinear boundary problem was solved in a time-marching scheme. The open boundary was modeled by combining an absorbing beach and the stretching technique. The proposed numerical scheme was verified by simulating the linear regular and irregular waves. The scheme was further applied to compute the linear and nonlinear irregular wave diffraction forces acting on a vertical truncated circular cylinder. The nonlinear results were also verified by checking the accuracy of the nonlinear simulation.     

of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core

The reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core is examined. The present mathematical model is developed by means of the matched eigenfunction method. Numerical results of the present model are compared with the experimental data of different researchers. Numerical examples are given to examine the effect of rock fill on the reflection coefficient. The differences between regular and irregular waves are also investigated by means of theoretical and experimental results. It is found that the minimum reflection coefficient of irregular waves is larger than that of corresponding regular waves, but the contrary is the case for the maximum reflection coefficient.     

Reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core

The reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core is examined. The present mathematical model is developed by means of the matched eigenfunction method. Numerical results of the present model are compared with the experimental data of different researchers. Numerical examples are given to examine the effect of rock fill on the reflection coefficient. The differences between regular and irregular waves are also investigated by means of theoretical and experimental results. It is found that the minimum reflection coefficient of irregular waves is larger than that of corresponding regular waves, but the contrary is the case for the maximum reflection coefficient.     

Application of desingularized approach to water wave propagation over three-dimensional topography

A numerical approach based on desingularized boundary element method and mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation [Zhang et al., 2006. Wave propagation in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank: a desingularized method. Ocean Engineering 33, 2310–2331] is extended to solve the water wave propagation over arbitrary topography in a three-dimensional wave tank. A robust damping layer applicable for regular and irregular incident waves is employed to minimize the outgoing wave reflection back into the wave tank. Numerical results on the propagation of regular and irregular incident waves over the flat bottom and linear incident waves over an elliptical shoal show good concurrence with the corresponding analytical solutions and experimental data.     

An efficient domain decomposition strategy for wave loads on surface piercing circular cylinders

A fully nonlinear domain decomposed solver is proposed for efficient computations of wave loads on surface piercing structures in the time domain. A fully nonlinear potential flow solver was combined with a fully nonlinear Navier–Stokes/VOF solver via generalized coupling zones of arbitrary shape. Sensitivity tests of the extent of the inner Navier–Stokes/VOF domain were carried out. Numerical computations of wave loads on surface piercing circular cylinders at intermediate water depths are presented. Four different test cases of increasing complexity were considered; 1) weakly nonlinear regular waves on a sloping bed, 2) phase-focused irregular waves on a flat bed, 3) irregular waves on a sloping bed and 4) multidirectional irregular waves on a sloping bed. For all cases, the free surface elevation and the inline force were successfully compared against experimental measurements.     

Experimental study of the hydrodynamic performance of an onshore wave power device in the presence of an underwater mound

The hydrodynamic functioning of an oscillating water column (OWC) in the presence of an underwater tri-dimensional mound (UTDM) through large-scale ocean engineering basin experiments is described. Experiments are carried out with both regular and irregular waves and are compared to numerical models. The analysis is based on the measurements of the wave amplification in the water column for the OWC performance and on surface deformation upwave and over the UTDM for the wave transformation due to both UTDM and OWC. A significant increase of the capture-width ratio due to wave focusing above the mound is observed experimentally. This wave focusing is also well described numerically with a refraction–diffraction model. The wave amplification in the water column for both regular and irregular waves is compared to results from a linear potential model based on an integral matching method. Linear behaviour of the hydrodynamic response of the device is verified for both open and partially closed conditions, in particular for irregular waves.     

Effect of a submerged plate on the near-bed dynamics underincoming waves in deep water conditions

It is well known that wave induced bottom oscillations become more and more negligible when the water depth exceeds half the wavelength of the surface gravity wave. However, it was experimentally demonstrated for regular waves that the bottom pressure oscillations at both first and second wave harmonic frequencies could be significant even for incoming waves propagating in deep water condition in the presence of a submerged plate [16]. For a water depth h of about the wavelength of the wave, measurements under the plate (depth immersion of top of plate h/6, length h/2) have shown bottom pressure variations at the wave frequency, up to thirty times larger than the pressure expected in the absence of the plate. In this paper, not only regular but also irregular wave are studied together with wave following current conditions. This behavior is numerically verified by use of a classical linear theory of waves. The wave bottom effect is explained through the role of evanescent modes and horizontally oscillating water column under the plate which still exist whatever the water depth. Such a model, which allows the calculation of the velocity fields, has shown that not only the bottom pressure but also the near bed fluid velocity are enhanced. Two maxima are observed on both sides of the location of the plate, at a distance of the plate increasing with the water depth. The possible impact of such near bed dynamics is then discussed for field conditions thanks to a scaling based on a Froude similarity. It is demonstrated that these structures may have a significant impact at the sea bed even in very deep water conditions, possibly enhanced in the presence of current.     

Simulating offshore sand waves

Sand waves form a prominent regular pattern in the offshore seabeds of sandy shallow seas and pose a threat to a range of offshore activities. A two-dimensional vertical (2DV) flow and morphological simulation model describing the behaviour of these sand waves has been developed. The simulation model contains the 2DV shallow water equations, with a free water surface and a general bed load formula. The water movement is coupled to the sediment transport equation with a seabed evolution equation. The domain is non-periodic in both directions. The spatial discretisation is performed by a spectral method based on Chebyshev polynomials. A fully implicit method is chosen for the discretisation in time. Firstly, we validate the simulation model mathematically by reproducing the results obtained using a linear stability analysis for infinitely small sand waves. Hereby, we investigate a steady current situation induced by a wind stress applied at the sea surface. The bed forms we find have wavelengths in the order of hundreds of metres when the resistance at the seabed is relatively large. The results show that it is possible to model the initial evolution of sand waves with a numerical simulation model. This paper forms the necessary first step to investigate the intermediate term behaviour of sand waves.     

Drag force on a circular cylinder in unseparated laminar high Reynolds number nonlinear random oscillatory flow

The stochastic properties of the drag force maxima on a circular cylinder subjected to nonlinear random waves are investigated. Unseparated laminar high Reynolds number flow is considered. A simplified approach based on second order Stokes waves is presented, including the sum-frequency effect only. It is demonstrated how a drag force formula valid for regular linear waves can be used to find the cumulative distribution function of individual drag force maxima for nonlinear irregular waves. Here the [Wang, 1968] drag force coefficient is used.     

Bottom friction caused by boundary layer streaming beneath random waves for laminar and smooth turbulent flow

The effect of boundary layer streaming on the sea bed shear stresses, beneath random waves, is investigated for laminar flow as well as smooth turbulent flow. It is demonstrated how bottom friction formulas for regular waves can be used to obtain the bed shear stresses resulting from steady streaming under random waves. As a result, friction factors for steady streaming under random waves are provided, and the effect of streaming versus the effect of linear waves is discussed. For laminar flow the effect of second order Stokes waves is also included. Examples are included to illustrate the applicability of the present practical method, and results are obtained using data typical for field conditions.     

Computation of Diffraction of Irregular Waves Behind Double Jetty

The coefficient of deffraction of regular waves behind the double jetty has been computed in this paper at first by using the singularity distribution method. The model tests conducted for diffraction of irregular waves with a unidirectional frequency spectrum have confirmed good agreement between the data measured in experiments and the results computed by the singularity distribution method plus the linear superposition method for the energy of component waves in the directional frequency spectra. Therefore, this technique for component waves in the directional spectra has been further used to compute diffraction of irregular waves of multidirection, including the employment of a directional distribution function of the cos2 type, as well as the Bretschneider-Misuyann frequency spectrum.     

Generating–absorbing sponge layers for phase-resolving wave models

The accurate generation and absorption of water waves in phase-resolving models are critical issues in representing nearshore processes. Here, we present a source function method for combined wave generation and absorption using modified sponge layers. This technique can be easily adapted to a wide variety of systems, and does not require the solution of Green's functions but rather the simpler knowledge of solutions for free waves. These solutions may be linear or nonlinear, regular or irregular, and generated waves can be made arbitrarily accurate through simple selection of sponge layer coefficients. Generating–absorbing sponge layer systems are shown to have a close correspondence to relaxation zones for wave generation if relaxation coefficients are chosen appropriately.     

An Irregular Wave Maker of Active Absorption with VOF Method

A numerical irregular wave flume with active absorption of re-reflected waves is simulated by use of volume of fluid （VOF） method. An active ＇absorbing wave-maker based on linear wave theory is set on the left boundary of the wave flume. The progressive waves and the absorbing waves are generated simultaneously at the active wave generating-absorbing boundary. The absorbing waves are generated to eliminate the waves coming back to the generating boundary due to reflection from the outflow boundary and the structures. SIRW method proposed by Frigaard and Brorsen （1995） is used to separate the incident waves and reflected waves. The digital filters are designed based on the surface elevation signals of the two wave gauges. The corrected velocity of the wave-maker paddle is the output from the digital filter in real time. The numerical results of regular and irregular waves by the active absorbing-generating boundary are compared with the numerical results by the ordinary generating boundary to verify the performance of the active absorbing-generator boundary. The differences between the initial incident waves and the estimated incident waves are analyzed.     

半潜式平台气隙数值预报

气隙预报是半潜平台设计过程中要考虑的关键问题之一.以一座250 m水深半潜式钻井平台为例,对其在5种海况下的气隙响应进行了数值计算,并与相应的模型试验相比较.从比较结果可以看出,一阶数值计算和Stokes二阶统计修正的结果均低估了相对波面升高的极值,且波陡越大,低估越严重.但是,它可以较好地预报危险点的位置,因此,可以用来在进行模型试验之前确定探针的布置位置和试验浪向.     

Mean and low frequency wave drifting forces on floating structures

A recently developed method, based on three-dimensional potential theory, to compute the mean wave drifting forces on a free floating structure in regular waves, is extended to include low frequency oscillatory components which arise when the structure is floating in regular wave groups consisting of two regular waves with small difference frequency. This completes the information necessary for the determination of the wave drifting forces under arbitrary irregular wave conditions.In regular wave groups the drifting forces not only depend on the first order velocity potential and the first body motions, but also on the wave exciting forces due to the low frequency part of the second order potential. For the general three-dimensional case the latter contribution can only be determined numerically and at the expense of long computation times. Since this contribution is generally not large compared to components which may be determined using linear potential theory it is included using a simple approximation. Results of the method of approximation are compared with some two-dimensional cases for which exact solutions are known.Results of computations of the total mean and low frequency surge forces on a rectangular barge and a column stabilized semi-submersible platform are presented. For both structures, the computed mean surge drifting forces in regular head waves are compared with results of model tests.The computed components of the total mean drifting forces are presented. It appears that for both the barge and the semi-submersible the same components are of importance.For the semi-submersible, the computed low frequency second order surge forces in head waves are compared with results obtained from a test in irregular head waves using cross-bispectral analysis methods.     

Parametric Resonance Analyses for Spar Platform in Irregular Waves

The parametric instability of a spar platform in irregular waves is analyzed. Parametric resonance is a phenomenon that may occur when a mechanical system parameter varies over time. When it occurs, a spar platform will have excessive pitch motion and may capsize. Therefore, avoiding parametric resonance is an important design requirement. The traditional methodology includes only a prediction of the Mathieu stability with harmonic excitation in regular waves. However, real sea conditions are irregular, and it has been observed that parametric resonance also occurs in non-harmonic excitations. Thus, it is imperative to predict the parametric resonance of a spar platform in irregular waves. A Hill equation is derived in this work, which can be used to analyze the parametric resonance under multi-frequency excitations. The derived Hill equation for predicting the instability of a spar can include non-harmonic excitation and random phases. The stability charts for multi-frequency excitation in irregular waves are given and compared with that for single frequency excitation in regular waves. Simulations of the pitch dynamic responses are carried out to check the stability. Three-dimensional stability charts with various damping coefficients for irregular waves are also investigated. The results show that the stability property in irregular waves has notable differences compared with that in case of regular waves. In addition, using the Hill equation to obtain the stability chart is an effective method to predict the parametric instability of spar platforms. Moreover, some suggestions for designing spar platforms to avoid parametric resonance are presented, such as increasing the damping coefficient, using an appropriate RAO and increasing the metacentric height.