华南休闲海滩沙坝触发的裂流风险及特征研究

为应对频发的致命性海滩溺水事故，自然资源部开展了我国首次滨海旅游区裂流灾害技术调查，在华南地区发现大量滨海休闲海滩存在浅滩沙坝和裂流现象。作为全国调查的部分成果，本文应用多种方法研究了广东省3个热门海滩沙坝触发的裂流机理、特征和演变规律。地形动力计算和卫星影像显示了沙坝形态、岸线形状以及裂流的高度动态性，尤其在青澳湾裂流呈现非常规的反季节变化，冬季风险较高而夏季风险较低。在相位解析水动力数值模拟中，裂流表现出对沙坝形态、浪高、浪向的高度敏感性。沙坝间较宽间隙会产生尺寸较大的裂流区，但比起窄沟槽不一定伴随更强的流速。当大部分水流集中从邻近的较宽通道回流入海时，部分窄沟槽几乎没有裂流产生。裂流流速与浪高成正比与入射角成反比。数值模拟结果表明，当入射角达到10°～30°时，沿岸流会取代离岸流占主导地位。现场调查也验证了在低潮时，较浅的水深会放大水流和波浪的地形效应，导致裂流风险加剧。本文研究结果可为滨海旅游区裂流灾害的工程减缓措施和公共警示提供有益参考。未来将会持续开展针对特定岸线的长期观测，以为裂流预警报和风险管控积累足够的统计数据。

Study on the risk and characteristics of rip currents over sandbars at South China’s recreational beaches

In responding to deadly drowning accidents, China's first operational attempt on the rip current hazard prevention for coastal tourism was carried out by the National Marine Hazard Mitigation Service (NMHMS). A great number of recreational beaches in South China are found developing littoral sand bars and rip currents. Present paper, which is part of the nation-wide work, investigate the mechanism, characteristics, and evolution sandbar-induced rip current at three most visited beaches employing multi-techniques as complementary tools. The alongshore sandbar morphology, shorelines, and rip currents are highly dynamic with seasonal variations evidenced by the morphodynamic calculation and the satellite image interpretation. Unconventional contrary seasonal evolution of the rip current is identified at Qing’ao Bay with higher risk in cooler seasons. The rip current shows high sensitivity to the sandbar group pattern, the wave height, and the incident direction according to the phase-resolving hydrodynamic modelling. The wider rip channel between sandbars generated larger rip size compared to narrower gaps, but is not necessarily accompanied by stronger flow velocity. The rip current might be totally absent in small channels when majority of water flows out through neighboring broader pathways. The flow velocity is demonstrated proportional to the wave height and inversely proportional to the incident angle. Alongshore currents dominated over rip currents as the wave incident angle reached 10°?30° in the numerical simulation. It is verified in the field observation that the rip current is most hazardous at low tide when shallower water depth intensifies the topographic effect on waves and currents. The study result provides useful reference for the engineering mitigation and public warning of beach rip hazard. In near future, long time observation for specific sections of shoreline would be conducted to accumulate enough statistics for the rip current prediction and risk governance.