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基于原型法的紧身女裤纸样设计
引用本文:刘若琳,孙光武,陈晓娜.基于原型法的紧身女裤纸样设计[J].针织工业,2020(3):61-63.
作者姓名:刘若琳  孙光武  陈晓娜
作者单位:上海工程技术大学 纺织服装学院,上海工程技术大学 纺织服装学院,上海工程技术大学 纺织服装学院
基金项目:国家自然科学基金项目(11802171);教育部人文社科研究一般项目青年基金(17YJC760120);一种具有护膝功能的裤装及其制作工艺(ZL 201810205941.7)
摘    要:在分析女式裤子立体形态与人体因素的基础上,根据标准女体下半身人台(165/68A)测量数据,建立涵盖女性下装形体特征的紧身女裤基础原型。通过合并中裆省道,直观地呈现出从裤子箱式原型到紧身裤结构的纸样形成过程。根据其纸样变化进行数据测量与分析,深入探讨紧身女裤上裆与下档结构参数的设定,建立紧身女裤结构样板与工艺要点。最后,通过着装效果验证纸样设计的合理性,该研究为完善女式紧身裤纸样设计提供了新的理论研究视角。

关 键 词:紧身女裤  裤装箱式原型  纸样设计  结构设计
收稿时间:2019/8/9 0:00:00
修稿时间:2020/2/29 0:00:00

Block Pattern Design of Leggings Based on Prototype Method
Liu Ruolin,Sun Guangwu,Chen Xiaona.Block Pattern Design of Leggings Based on Prototype Method[J].Knitting Industries,2020(3):61-63.
Authors:Liu Ruolin  Sun Guangwu  Chen Xiaona
Affiliation:(Textile and Fashion College,Shanghai University of Engineering Science,Shanghai 201620,China)
Abstract:Based on the analysis of the three-dimensional shape of women’s pants and human factors, according to the measurement data of standard female lower body mannequin(165/68 A), the basic prototype of leggings covering the shape characteristics of women’s pants was established. Through the combination of middle crotch dart, the pattern formation process from box-type prototype of pants to structure of tight pants is presented intuitively.Measuring and analyzing the data according to the change of paper block pattern. The settings of the upper crotch and lower crotch structure parameters of the leggings are discussed in depth, and the structure template and process key points of leggings are established. Finally, the rationality of the pattern design is verified by dressing effect. It provides a new theoretical research perspective for perfecting the block pattern design of female tight pants.
Keywords:Leggings  Box-type Prototype of Pants  Pattern Design  Structure Design
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