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黄道婆文化的再研究
引用本文:刘安定,李斌,李强,杨振宇.黄道婆文化的再研究[J].丝绸,2019(3):91-97.
作者姓名:刘安定  李斌  李强  杨振宇
作者单位:武汉纺织大学服装学院;湖北省非物质文化遗产研究中心;武汉纺织大学《服饰导刊》编辑部;江西服装学院服饰文化研究所
基金项目:教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(17YJCZH079);国家级大学生创新创业项目(201810495002)
摘    要:针对目前黄道婆文化研究推论性的困境和缺陷,文章运用文献研究法和田野调查法从黄道婆文化的本质、内核、外延三个维度进行再研究。研究表明:一方面,黄道婆文化的本质为中国古代的工匠精神,其内核是乌泥泾棉纺织技术,该纺织技术是由黄道婆在黎族棉纺织技术的基础上,直接运用、改良黎族棉花加工与纺纱技术,创新式地将汉族丝织行业的整经、制纬工艺及麻织行业的织造工艺运用到棉织技术上。同时,黄道婆文化的外延则为长三角地区地域文化。另一方面,黄道婆文化是在乌泥泾棉纺织技术、棉纺织文化与长三角地区风俗互动的过程逐渐形成的一种地域文化。

关 键 词:黄道婆文化  地方性知识  染织  黎族纺织技术  乌泥泾纺织技术

A further study on Huang Daopo culture
LIU Anding,LI Bin,LI Qiang,YANG Zhenyu.A further study on Huang Daopo culture[J].Silk Monthly,2019(3):91-97.
Authors:LIU Anding  LI Bin  LI Qiang  YANG Zhenyu
Affiliation:(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan 430073, China;Editorial Department of Fashion Guide, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan 430073, China;The Research Center of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Hubei Province, Wuhan 430073, China;Research Laboratory of Apparel Culture,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology, Nanchang 330201, China)
Abstract:According to the inferential dilemma and defects existing in the current research on Huang Daopo culture, this paper used the literature research method and field investigation method to re-evaluate the essence, core, and extension of Huang Daopo culture. The research shows that, on the one hand, the essence of Huang Daopo culture is the spirit of ancient Chinese craftsmen. Its core is the Wunijing cotton textile technology, while the cotton textile technology is directly used by Huang Daopo based on Li textile technology. The improved Li nationality cotton processing and spinning technology has innovatively applied the warping and weaving techniques of the Han silk weaving industry and the weaving process of the Maw industry to the cotton weaving technology. At the same time, the extension of Huang Daopo culture is the regional culture of the Yangtze River Delta region. On the other hand, Huang Daopo culture is a regional culture which gradually formed in the interactive process of Wunijing cotton textile technology, cotton textile culture and the Yangtze River Delta region.
Keywords:Huang Daopo culture  local knowledge  dyeing and weaving  Li’s textile technology  textile technology of Wunijing
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