宋代绞经花纱织造工艺及其数学建模

为给纺织行业非物质文化遗产抢救性保护提供科学依据,通过对考古发现宋代的绞经花纱类丝织品文物实物分析,按照织物组织结构对其进行分类,结合《耕织图》中的织机图像推断宋代绞经花纱由装有对偶式绞综装置的束综提花机织制,进而推断生产绞经花纱的具体织造工艺。对比宋今生产绞纱织物的织机机构,根据现代纱罗提花织机工作原理绘制宋代绞经花纱的上机图。将上机图分为组织图、绞综穿综及绞经所穿平综图、地经所穿平综图、绞综纹板及绞经所穿平综纹板图、地经所穿平综纹板图5个部分,并设计矩阵形式表达,建立起5个矩阵之间的数学关系。为古代绞经织物与现代织机及CAD配合系统设计的实现提供理论参考。

Weaving techniques and mathematical model for patterned simple gauze of Song dynasty

This study aims to make a contribution to the study of salvage conservation of intangible cultural heritance of textile industry. It analyzed and classified patterned simple gauze relics of the Song dynasty from archaeological excavations according to weaving structure features thereof. Coming to a conclusion that the String?Heddle Patterning loom was set with coupled doup harness and was used in patterned simple gauzes production in the Song dynasty according to sericulture and weaving. The techniques of weaving patterned simple gauzes by the loom are known. The study made looming drafts of fabrics, after comparison between modern patterned simple gauze loom and patterned simple gauze loom of Song, based on working principle of modern patterned gauze loom. Looming drafts of patterned simple gauze were divided into the weaving structure, crossing ends draft plan, ground ends draft plan, crossing ends lifting plan and ground ends lifting plan. According to the matrix principle, the study makes the above 5 parts as 5 matrixes and puts forward mathematical models by defining logical operation. The mathematical model provides a basic theory for the system of CAD and modern loom.