横编成形鞋面的组织结构设计

为开发适用于鞋帮面材料的横编织物,在研究鞋面材料服用性能的基础上,对目前适用于鞋面的组织结构进行深入分析,并将其分为装饰性及功能性2大类。针对鞋面各部位的不同要求,在编织过程中变换不同的组织结构以达到高强、透气、束紧、装饰等作用。创新采用提花技术编织品牌标志,并将其与印花方式形成的标志进行外观比较后确认其可行性。同时,结合电脑横机编织技术,对其中一些典型组织进行工艺设计及上机实践,验证并优化了编织过程,使横编鞋面具有轻质高强、美观舒适等优点,实现了功能性与装饰性的统一。

Stitch structure design of flat knitting shaped shoe-upper

In order to develop the flat knitting fabric which suitable for the upper material, based on the study of upper’s performance, the current stitch for upper was analyzed and was divided into decorative and functional two categories, for the different requirements of the various parts of the upper, transforming different stitch in the knitting process in order to achieve high strength, breathable, tighten, decoration and so on. Using jacquard technology to make brand logo was innovation, contrast it with the appearance of printing and then confirm its feasibility. Combined with computerize knitting machine technology, some of typical stitch were designed and practiced, the knitting process was tested and optimized. As a whole, at the same time giving full play to the advantages of flat knitting forming technology, the flat knitting uppers had the advantage of lightweight, high strength, beautiful, comfort, etc., achieved the unity of functional and decorative. This paper has the guiding significance for the development and promotion of the product.