采用表里接结结构的絣织织物设计与开发

为了使絣织织物兼具正反双面效果且绿色环保,提出将表里接结组织结合植物染料染色应用于絣织织物的设计方法。通过对双面絣织织物纹样设计、上机图设计和扎染技术分析,提出双面絣织几何形织物的设计方法。以几何形絣织织物为例,根据正面万字纹、反面方形纹的纹样意匠图进行经纬纱捆扎及织物植物染料染色,采用表里接结组织在小样机上进行试织。研究结果表明:经纬纱经过扎染后配合表里接结组织结构,可得到混色效果明显、风格独特的双面絣织织物,该织物可广泛应用于服饰、家纺产品和文化创意产品。

Design and weaving of ikat fabrics with stitching double weave

In order to exhibit double-sided effect and environmental friendly property of ikat fabric,stitching double weave and botanic dyeing were applied on fabric design.Based on the analysis of the pattern design,looming draft design and the technology of yarn binding and dyeing,the design method of double faced ikat fabric with geometric shape was put forward.Take the geometric ikat fabric as an example,the front is swastika pattern and the back is square pattern,the yarn tying and plant dyeing was carried out according to the pattern design drawing,the structure is stitching double weave,and the fabric was woven on sample loom.The application of the design method shows that the effect of botanic dyeing and color mixing of the fabric is obvious and the style is special.The fabric can be widely applied in dress,home textile,cultural and innovative products.