针织西服面料的挺括风格研究

为探讨针织面料在西服开发应用的要求与标准,寻找能够用于西服开发的针织面料,分别从弯曲长度、折皱回复性、悬垂性3个方面对针织面料的挺括风格进行量化分析。借助实验仪器以及数据处理得到弯曲刚度、折皱回复角、静态悬垂系数3项性能指标,以机织西服面料为参考标准,对针织面料的挺括风格进行研究分析。结果表明:6路变化罗马组织是较为适合针织面料开发西服的组织结构,其结构稳定性优于12路小提花组织以及变化间隔组织,降低纵向弯曲刚度与横向弯曲刚度的差异;织物厚度增加0.1 mm,折皱回复程度提高10%;织物密度控制在110~130线圈/(5 cm)时,悬垂程度达到机织西服面料的60%以上;6路变化罗马组织配合高织物密度能够使针织面料的挺括风格达到机织西服面料的80%。

Study on stiffness style of knitted suit fabrics

In order to discuss the requirements and standards for the development and application of knitted fabrics for suits, this study quantified the stiffness style of knitted fabrics in three aspects, i.e. bending length, wrinkle recovery and drape. With the help of experimental instruments and data processing, three performance indicators, bending stiffness, wrinkle recovery angle and static drape coefficient, were obtained. The woven suit fabric was used as a benchmark to study and analyze the stiffness style of knitted fabrics. The results show that knitted fabrics using the six-way-change Roman knit structure is more suitable for suits, and the structural stability of the six-way-change Roman knit structure is better than that of the twelve-way small jacquard structure and the variable interval structure, which reduces the difference between the course and wale flexural stiffness. The fabric thickness of the six-way-change Roman knit structure is 0.1 mm thicker, and the degree of crease recovery is 10% higher. When the fabric density is set to 110-130 loops/(5 cm), the degree of drape reaches more than 60% of that for the woven suit fabric. It is shown that the six-way-change Roman structure combined with high fabric density makes the stiffness style of knitted fabric reach 80% of that of the woven suit fabric.