礼和善:传统"徽式"服饰的演变规律

为了研究传统“徽式”服饰演变的客观规律,从社会学和设计学的角度,以古籍文献和部分藏品实样为研究对象,对不同时期“徽式”服饰在形制、色彩、材料、纹样等特征元素的演变进行了梳理和比较,发现不同时期的“礼制”规范和民间对服饰品“善用”需求的变化,促使了服饰各构成元素及组合方式的演变,并探索了上层建筑、人口结构、经济技术、自然环境等客观因素在“徽式”服饰演变中的作用机制。研究表明,传统“徽式”服饰演变的客观规律是:在“礼”的外部干预和限制下,达到“善”的内在要求,即“从礼求善”的中国传统造物思想。

Etiquette and good: evolution law of traditional "Hui-style" costumes

In order to study the evolution law of traditional"Hui-style"costumes,focused on relevant ancient documents and some real collections,from the perspective of sociology and design,reviewing and comparisoning the evolution of characteristic elements(style,color,material,and pattern)of"Hui-style"costumes in different time show that the changes of"etiquette"and the private demand for"rational usage"of costumes in different time had promoted the evolution of clothing.Besides,the effect of superstructure,population structure,economy and technology,natural environment and other objective factors on the evolution of"Hui-style"costumes.The research shows that the evolution law of traditional"Hui-style"costumes is meeting the requirement of"rational usage"under the intervention and limitation of"etiquette",namely Chinese traditional thoughts on creation of pursuing"rational usage from etiquette".