织物组织和纱线捻向对透孔效果的影响

研究透孔织物中组织搭配和纱线捻向配置对透孔大小的影响.按平纹组织将透孔组织分为单起平纹透孔和双起平纹透孔,通过对织物形成过程中纱线的受力进行分析,认为在双起平纹透孔中纱线额外获得S捻,使S捻纱加捻,而使Z捻纱解捻,从而造成了纱线直径的变化,导致透孔有大有小.提出在进行透孔织物设计和生产时组织搭配方式和捻向配置方式,并以试织小样进行了验证.

Influence of Stitch and Yarn Twist Direction on Fabric Leaking Hole

To research the influence of stitch matching and twist direction on leaking hole,leaking hole fabric can be divided into two categories according to plain weave(odd number beginning plain weave leaking hole and even number beginning plain weave leaking hole).Through analyzing yarn force in forming fabric,it shows that even number beginning plain weave leaking hole can get extra S twist,it can twist S yarn,and detwist Z yarn,and the effect can bring the change of yarn diameter,and change the size of leaking hole.Stitch matching way and twist director configuration of designing and producing leaking hole fabric are proposed,and the trial weaving of sample are done to tested.