Long Waves Associated with Bichromatic Waves

A numerical model of low frequency waves is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the nu-merical techniques used in the solution are based on the so-called Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave setup. The short wave (or primary wave) energy equation is solved with a traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. A nonlinear wave theory is introduced. The model described in this paper is found to be satisfactory in modeling low frequency waves associated with incident bichromalic waves.     

Gravity Anomaly and Tectonics in the Northern Part of the North Fiji Basin - Preliminary Result of the 1994 NOFI Cruise under the NEW STARMER Programme

A surface ship gravity survey was carried out in the northern part of the North Fiji Basin during the NOFI cruise by the R/V l'Atalante in August-September, 1994. The two ridges inside the study area, the South Pandora Ridge and the Tripartite Ridge, present different structures and states of isostatic equilibrium in terms of gravity anomaly and its tectonic implications. The former is supported by a restoring force of an imaginary elastic plate in the crust and the latter by the Airy type isostasy. These characteristics can be derived from the difference in magmatic activity, as influenced by the difference in lithospheric structure. The latter is characterised by greater active magmatism and hydrothermalism underneath the ridge than the former. Such a difference in the magmatic activity and the horizontal scale of the shallow subsurface structure is derived from the difference in the stiffness or viscosity of the lithosphere beneath the two ridges.     

Separation of Waves by Interpolation Method

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Statistics of nonlinear wave crests and groups

Groups of large nonlinear waves with sharper higher crests can pose hazards to ships, induce harbor resonance and cause wave-overtopping of fixed and floating structures. Past interest in wave groups has mostly been focused on the statistics and modeling of linear wave groups. Studies on nonlinear wave groups are surprisingly few, and address deep water waves only. Here, statistics of nonlinear wave crests and wave-crest groups in deep and transitional water depths are considered, using an appropriate second-order representation for crest heights and the continuous wave-envelope approach. In particular, theoretical expressions describing the statistics of nonlinear wave crests and their groups are posed in the form of a simple second-order transformation of well-known results on linear waves. Predictions from the transformation so posed compare well with nonlinear wave data gathered in the North Sea, and demonstrate that nonlinearities do affect the statistics of large wave crests and their groups significantly.     

Three-dimensional numerical simulation of obfique wave action on vertical walls

A three-dimensional numerical model based on the potential theory was developed to study the oblique wave action on vertical walls. A source term inside the domain was used to generate incident waves and outgoing waves were dissipated by sponge layers and transmitted by radiation boundaries. The finite difference method was used to solve the governing equations and boundary conditions in the regular transformed domain in σ-coordinate. Satisfactory agreements between the numerical predictions and experimental results of wave force were obtained. It is concluded that the maximum wave force acting on the vertical walls is induced by the obliquely incident waves rather than the normally incident waves.     

空间扰动引力的谱分析

基于重力场的频谱理论，给出了扰动引力在全球平均意义下的功率谱表达式，揭示了扰动引力的传播特性。通过数值试验，给出了扰动引力随高度变化规律，并分析了不同高度上，扰动引力恢复重力场的最高阶数及相应分辨率。从理论上分析了航空重力测量探测重力场中高频信息的能力，对制定飞行方案有一定参考价值。     

双层局部开孔板沉箱对波浪反射的理论研究

提出了一种用于研究由双层开孔板和一个不透水后板的开孔结构对斜向波反射率的理论分析方法。整个流域被分成三个子域，在每个子域内应用特征函数展开法以得到该域内包含未知展开系数的势函数的表达式，在速度势的展开中，考虑了非传播模态波浪的影响。通过匹配开孔板处的边界条件可以求解待定的展开系数，继而求解双层开孔板防波堤结构对斜向波的反射率。数值计算结果与试验结果进行了比较，符合较好。并进一步讨论了几个重要因素对反射系数的影响。     

Analytic Solution of Interaction Between Surface Waves and Floating Elastic Plates with Elastic End-Restraints

Based on the dynamic theories of water waves and Mindlin plates,the analytic solution of interaction between surface waves and two-dimensional floating elastic plates with edge-restraint is constructed by use of the Wiener-Hopf technique.Firstly,without regard for elastic edge restraint,the wave-induced responses of elastic floating plate analyzed by the present method are in good agreement with the results from literature and experimental results.Therefore,it can be shown that the present method is valid.Secondly,three end-restraint cases(i.e.,the left-end elastic restraints,the both-end elastic restraints,and the right-end elastic restraints)are proposed to reduce the vibration of floating plates,in which the spring is used to connect the sea bottom and the floating plate's left(or right)edge.The relations between the spring stiffness and the parameters of wave-induced responses of floating plates are discussed.Moreover,the effective method to reduce the vibration of floating elastic plates can be obtained through comparison.     

具有内波特性的渤海南部次重力波

次重力波(infragravity waves)是频率范围介于局地平均Brunt-V¾is¾l¾频率和0.05Hz(涌浪频率)之间的一种海洋波动,其能量在深水大洋中一般甚低,但在浅海中却很强.该波动的研究对于浅海海洋内部混合、近岸海洋工程、海洋生态学、海洋沉积学及军事海洋学均有重要的意义.Munk[1]很早就开始研究这类波动,然而主要由于观测技术的限制,对于该类波动的动力学机制的研究进展迟缓.